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About Google Book Search Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web at |http: //books .google .com/I 3r^o?S; / ,.'-u„.,: a.a.u%«^//-c ^; .■//„.,„„.,. //„//„„./ I Pot [HDRSHLA \ ^ ^'"^K^^ *^ [ HISTORICAI. xsv DESCHll'TlVK ACCDVNT re .^■VAr iOASl* ©^ SBS83SX ■ l3ngl|t(ii s.iiiTt>orjtx sr LEtKTJitB.y yrSArx.zerrE.i , Id-r- 4.0C^S. \ > /^ TmuLiuu^j^, ^ V WILLIAM IV., KING, AND ADELAIDE, QUEEN THIS VOLUME WITH THB HIBHSST BESFBCT AND DBFKRSNCE, THE AUTHOR. January, 1833. PREFACE. This volume was b^un« completed, and published within the space of six months, although it had been meditated for about the . same number of preceding ones, which, with one or two brief previous exceptions, forms the whole of the author's acquaintance with the County of Sussex. It has been conducted under every possible dis- couragement and want of support; the particulars, however, it will be superfluous and unavailing to de- tail ; it will be sufficient to describe it negatively, and say that every instance of courteousness which the au- thor has met with, either from those in the higher or middle ranks, is carefully acknowledged and acted upon in the following pages. Such disappointment was almost sufficient to have induced an abandonment of the work, but that he had the consciousness of its not being merited : he considered, also, that it might live to see an improvement of spirit, that it would come under the notice of an extensive cycle of Visitors, embracing A 2 ^v IV PREFACE. many individuals of liberal minds, and, though last mentioned, first in importance, that it had received the honour of the sanction of their Majesties. After their distinguished names, then, he has only to acknowledge the following obligations: — to their Royal Highnesses the Princess Augusta and the Duchess of Gloucester; the gallant and courteous Earl of Munster, famous ^^ both with sword and pen," whose appointment to the custody of a still more re- nowned palace than that of Brighton was witnessed with sincere pleasure j Sir Herbert Taylor, to whose patient civility he owes a debt of much gratitude ; the Dukes of Richmond (of whose courtesy he cannot say too much), Devonshire, and Bedford, and the Bishop of Chichester. It is, perhaps, scarcely necessary to inform the reader, that this volume has been executed in the most unshrinking style of expense, and has actually cost a considerable sum ; the only portion of which he re- grets, is that which was applied to making its design extensively known, as it was entirely sacrificed. Pub- lication is always a dangerous thing in these times, but, perhaps, when the Rubicon is passed, it may be, upon the wh6le, as politic to apply the advice of Polonius ■ Being in. Bear it that the opposcr may beware thee. PREFACE. The author has to express his sense of the ability and conscientious exertions of the artists employed in its embellishments, as well as the skill and patience of the excellent printers. The sole failure was the vignette of the Pavilion, which he sincerely regretted, especially as it was absolutely too late to cancel or improve it. Every place here described has been carefully visited, at an expense, arising from local circumstances, by no means inconsiderable. The very few exceptions are- either specifically alluded to, or indicated by the follow- ing mark %*. It is not easy in practice, however it be recommended in theory, to speak with perfect impartiality and good temper, where that courtesy is not obtained which a person feels he has a right to claim. The author can respectfully, but boldly, assert, that he has not merely earnestly attempted this, but knows that he has suc- ceeded } and verily believes that he could not have spoken more impartially, if he had been upon oath. May he venture, on this score, to expect, if the reader concurs with him, a share of his approbation ? He has fortunately met with some facilities for obtaining valuable information ; especially the almost unequalled MSS. collections of Sir William Burrell, deposited in the British Museum. He has also obtained VI PREFACE. a great number, though not all, of the works he desired to see, fix>m the University Library of Cambridge. There is Ofne MS. in this volume of very high im- portance to the curious in the general History of England. On examining and collating the works already published, relating to the Topography of Sussex, the following appeared to be the only important standard ones: — "Dallaway's History of the City and Rape of Chichester," 4to. 5l. 5s., very scarce ; " Ditto of the Rape of Arundel, republished by Cartwright," Si. 5s. ; " Cartwright's History of the Rape of Bramber,'* 5l. 5s. ; " Horsefield's History of Lewes and its Vicinity,** 4/. 4*. j " Moss's History of Hastings,** These are not only very expensive publications, but, with scanty exceptions, leave the whole of the eastern, and by far the more interesting half of the county undescribed. The following places, which have been principally enlarged upon in this volume, were almost untrodden ground: — Newhaven, Seaford, East- bourne, Pevensey, St. Leonard's, Winchelsea, Rte, Battle, and Hurstmonceux. Whilst, for the very same reasons, the account of the western division has been rendered very concise, with the exception of Worthing and Groodwood ; the former from its in- PREFACE. VU creased interest, and the latter from real respect for the noble possessor. The extent and responsibility of this undertaking, compared with the limited time in which it was desirable it should be produced, were found so unex- pectedly weighty, that the spirit and ability, and latterly, the health of the author nearly sunk beneath it. Although it is published by the highly respectable booksellers at Brighton, with perfect mutual good understanding, he alone is responsible for any senti- ments it may contain. Whilst the materials were collected with industry, a considerable part of the volume was written with the greatest haste; he is well aware it cannot stand the test of calligraphy, perhaps in some instances scarcely of orthography. Such as it is, however, it is now before the world, and they must deal with it and its author as they please. For his own part, he can only say, that he takes his leave of them with all charitable and good wishes. London, January^ 1833. lEntereb at Sbtatiotins^ ^all. CONTENTS. Page BRIGHTON. '^ HISTOBT. Early Acoonnts and Etymology .... 1 Doomsday Survey . . . .10 Nonal Inquisition . • .18 Curious Map, 1545 . . . 83 CoL Gunter's MSS. Account of the escape of Charles II. S9 General Particulars of Sussex • . . .48 Brighton ; Eighteenth century . . .54 Newspi^er Extracts from 1761 to 1810 . 61 to 94 Nineteenth century . . ... 95 . 103 . Ill DESCRIPTION. General Appearance: Nodier: Climate, &c &c. . 97 Churches .... Town Hall . . . • Royal Pavilion . 114 to 129 Steyne, Zoological Gardens, Park, Chalybeate, Chain Pier 130 to 140 Marine Parade, Western Esplanades . 139 to 144 Libraries, Baths, &c &c. . . . 145 to 148 *^^» .... 148 to 153 Theatre, Assembly Rooms, &c. . . . 153 Schools and Charities . f . 156 to 163 Fancy Fairs . . \ . j^^ MaTkets,Barracks, Oriental Gardens, Scientific Institution 166 to 180 Professional Persons . . . . 171 to 175 Pleasure Boats • . . . . 175 Hove, Preston, Patcham, and Poynings . . 176 to 181 EASTERN COAST. BRIGHTON TO HASTINGS. Rottingdean . . .131 Newhaven, History, with MSS. and Newspaper Extracts ; Description . . . . . 182 to 189 Seaford, History with Extracts . .189 Descr^Jtion . . . 189 to 194 CONTENTS. P«g€ Eastbourae^ Site of Anderida . 194 to 198 History^ with MSS. . 198 to 202 Newspaper Extracts . . 202 to 205 Descriptioii . 206 to 209 Beachy Head . . . . . 209 Naval Engagement, 1690 . 212 MarteQo Towers . 2U Pevensey . • . . 216 Westham .... . 217 Bexhill .... . 218 HastiDgB .... . 219 History . . . . . 219 to 224 Description— Miscellaneoua . 225 to 237 St Leonard's . 237 to 241 HASTINGS TO HURSTMONCEAUX AND PEVBNSEY. Har8tmonceaux.->Bishop Littleton's Account; Family of Dacreand Vanx; Fiennes .... 24Sto246 MSS. Survey^ time of Elizabeth; Grosej Horace Walpole 246 to 250 Description .... 250 to 254 Pevensey; Description ..... 254 History^ with numeroiis MSS* ; Surreys ; Customs . 256 to 270 HASTINGS TO WINCHELSEA AND RYE. Fairlight Hill . . . . . .270 Iddesham • . . , 272 Wlndielsea; History j MSS.; JeieLke; Pennant; Cus- toms, &c . . . . 273 to 281 Description . . • • . 283 Rye— History ; Ancient Autliors 3 Petitions; Customal; LansdowneMSS.; Jeake . 285 to 297 Description . . . . . 297 CINQUE PORTS. History; Ports' Doomsday Book; Customs; Lord War- den; Ships; Coronation Services; Sir Walter Raldgh; Historical Serrices .... 300 to 308 HASTINGS TO BATTLE, ASHBURNHAM, LEWES, AND BRIGHTON. Battle Abbey, Town and Church; History and De- scription . . . . . 309 to 320 Aahbumham ...... 320 Hailsham, Laughton, Ringmer . . . 322 to 325 CONTENTS. XI Page Lewes.— History^ Mutuaniams, Roman Courts and VTays 325 to 327 Newspaper Extracts .... 327 Description : Miscellaneous . . • • 327 to 335 Falmer and Stanmer .... 335 MICHAEL DRAYTON'S ACCOUNT OF SUSSEX a)AST, POirOiJ870JV; WITH NOTES, 1612 . 337 to 340 WESTERN COAST. BRIGHTON TO CHICHESTER. Portslade, Kingston, Southwick a . . • 3«0 New Shordiam, History, Description, Imports, &C. . 340 to 346 Old Shoreham .346 Bramber . 347 Steyning . . . . 348 Lancing and Sompting . ... 9vSf WORTHING • 351 Newspaper Extracts . 352 to 356 Description: Miscellaneous • 356 to 359 Broadwater . 359 Offington . « • • • 361 Cissbury; Roman Pavement * . . • 363 Tarring .364 Salvington, Selden . . • 36o Little-Hampton . 370 Fdpham . 372 Bognor . 373 ARUNDEL ....... 375 General Appearance: History of Castle and Town : Description ; Church ; Castle : Norfolk Family ; Arundel Marbles . 378 to 389 CHICHESTER : History ; Cogidubnus ; Siege, &c. . . 390 Description ; Cathedral, &c. &c. &c . . 393 to 403 West Dean . . ''. . . . 403 Halnaker and Boxgrore . . . , 404 GOODWOOD ..... 406 Interior ..... 407 Park, &c. ..... 420 Richmond Family ..... 42S TUNBRIDGE-WELLS .... 429 ENGRAVINGS. VMAP, WITH VIGNETTES, To face engntTed Title Page. V BRIGHTON, EAST, ^fj ^ ROYAL PAVILION-NEVr ENTRANCE . . .129 ^BRIGHTON, WEST, 141 y HURSTMONCEAUX CASTLE .251 / FAIRLIGHT HILL, AND HASTINGS, . .271 v' GOODWOOD 407 «*« There are a few typographical errors in this volume, but they will be easily discernible by the Reader. I I ACCOUNT OP THE COAST OF SUSSEX BRIGHTON ANCIENT HISTORY. Very little can be said, with any positive certainty, to be known of the history of Brighton until about a century before the Norman conquest. Now that it has attained a degree of consequence, in size and population, of a most unprecedentedly rapid increase, the inquirers into its origin are willing to per- suade themselves and others of its always having possessed some claims to notice. On the same principle, we suppose, as actuates the admirers of a great man, risen from obscurity, who would, if possible, make out his claim to some quartering, ten times removed, to be sought out in the archives of the Heralds^ College. But, as it our purpose, in every instance, to speak impartially, without fear or favour, we will simply put the reader in possession of such actual facts as we have been enabled to discover, and add little more : — we may possibly amuse him with a few theories, like gleams of Romance scin- tillating through the dull and murky atmosphere of a common- place generation, but we shall give to them no further weight than we humbly conceive them to merit. We shall not, therefore, go back to " Brute or King Lud,** or seriously disprove the nonsensical tale of Julius Caesar having landed at Brighton. Nor shall we occupy ourselves with the Druids, some of whose altars, or sacred stones, have been B 2 COAST OF SUSSEX. supposed to be found on the hills above Brighton. We know little of these gentry, though that is nearly as much as any one else does with positive accuracy, and we have quite as little liking for them. Had a Boadicea been connected with this vicinity, we should perhaps have been tempted to pause for an instant over the fate of a not uninteresting British heroine *. * Tbe conclusion of a Cambridge prize poem — subject << BotuUcea,** by W. Whewell, 1814, has always appeared to us very beautiful. " Yes, Roman ! proudly shake thy crested brow, *Tis thine to conquer, thine to triumph now; For thee, lo ! Victory, lifts her gory hand. And calls the fiends of Terror on the land, And flaps, as tiptoe on thy helm she springs, Dipping with British blood her eagle wings. ** Yet think not, think not, long to thee *tis given To laugh at justice and to mock at Heaven ; Soon shall thy head, with blood-stain'd laurels crown*d. Stoop, at the feet of Vengeance, to the ground. I see, amid the gloom of future days, Thy turrets totter and thy temples blaze ; I see upon thy shrinking Latium hurPd I The countless millions of the northern world ; i I see, like vultures gathering to their prey. The shades of states that fell beneath thy sway ; They leave their fallen palaces and fanes, Their grass-grown streets, and ruin-8catter*d plains. Where lonely long they viewless loved to dwell, And mourn the scenes that once they loved so well : Triumphant, lo ! on all the winds they come, And clap the exulting hand o*er fallen Rome, And hovering o*er thy domes that blazing glow. Their waving pennons fan the flame below ; They view rejoiced the conflagration's gleams Shoot their long glare o*er Tiber's reddening streams ; And snuff the carnage-tainted smokes that rise, An incense sweet, a grateful sacrifice. « Sad Tiber*8 banks with broken columns spread ; Fall*n every fane that rear*d to heav*n its head ! Poor heap of ashes ! Grandeur's mouldering tomb ! Art thou the place vras once Eternal Rome ? *' Yes, Roman ! snatch thy triumph whilst thou may, Weak is thy rage, and brief thy little day : Vanished and past the momentary storm, Albion ! my Albion, brighter shows her form. Far o'er the rolling years of gloom I spy Her oak-crownM forehead lifted to the sky, BRIGHTON. O Those, however, who wish to see further conjectures re- specting the Druids, may find them in the small volume pub- lished by Dr. Relhan. This learned antiquary has also been willing to believe that Brighton was actually a Roman station, but has not succeeded in obtaining consent to his theory, as his arguments merely prove that it would have been an eligible locality for one, and are not borne out by external testimony. It has been observed by others, that if Brighton possessed any Roman influence, it must have been derived from the closely-adjoining settlement of Aldrington, or Partus Adumi*. ** The Pnepositus of the Exploratores, whose office was to discover the state and motions of the enemjr^ and who was certainly in this part of Sussex^ could he nowhere more advantageously placed than in the elevated situations of the strong camps at Hollingshury and White-Hawke, com- manding a most extensive view of the whole coast from Beachy-Head to Above the low-hung mists unclouded seen, Amid the wreck of nations still serene ; She bursts the chains, when hands like thine would bind The groaning world, and lord it o*er mankind. Amid yon glittering flood of liquid light Float regal forms before my dazzled sight ; Like stars along the milky zone that blaze Their scepter*d hands and gold-bound fronts they raise. My sons ! — my daughters ! — £unt, alas ! and dim, Before these fading eyes your glories swim, Mix'd with the mists of death — *Tis yours to throw Your radiance round, while happier ages flow ; I smile at storms of earthly woe, and rise. Shades of my Sires ! to your serener skies." • Did the reader ever hear the tale of " Caesar's Stile ?"— that of Agricola's Long Ladle, he may probably have read in the « Antiquary." Dr. Stukely, or some other antiquarian, was travelling through England, when he heard, that on a certain hill there was a stile called « Csesar's Stile." « Ay," said the doctor, ** such a road, mentioned in Antoninus, passed near here ; and the traditional name of this stile confirms the probability of a Roman camp on this spot" Whilst he was surveying the prospect, a peasant came up, whom the doctor addressed: — « They call this Caesar's Stile, my friend, do they not?" « £es, zur," said the man, " they calls it so a'rter poor old Bob Cctsar^ the carpenter (rest his soul !) ; I holped him to make it, when I was a boy." A Brighton Guide, after conjecturing that this place <* was in some repute in the time of the Romans," says, — ** In fact, there is every reason to think Brighton was a town or village lojtg antecedent to the coming of the Romans^ and that it owed its rise to the Saxons,** '< O Dii, homines, et columnae ! " here is a new historical theory of the invasions of Britain ! b2 4 COAST OF SUSSEX. the Isle of Wight The form of this town is almost a perfect eqiuure; the streets are htiilt at right angles to each other^ and its situation is to the south* east, tlie favourite one among the Romans. To these may he added^ that an urn has heen some time ago dug up in this neighhourhood, containing a tiiousand silver denarii marked from Antoninus Pius to Philip, during which tract of time Britain was prohahly a Roman province. And, lastly, the vestiges of a true Roman via running from Shoreham towards Lewes, at a small distance ahove this town, have heen lately discovered hy an in« genious gentleman truly conversant in matters of this nature. '^ The light sometimes obtained in these dark matters from a similitude of sounds in the ancient and modem names of places, is not to be had in assisting the present conjecture. Its ancient one, as far as I can learn, la no way dbcoverable: and its modem one may be owing either to this town's belonging formerly to, or being countenanced in a particular manner by, a Bishop Brighthelm, who, during the former government of the island, lived in tliis neighbourhood : or perhaps may be deduced from the ships of this town having their helms better ornamented than those of their ndgh* bouring ones*.** — Dr. Relhan. The following observations, on Roman camps and on the etymology of Brighton, are extracted from the Burreli MSS. : GAJtfPS. *' There are three Roman castra, lying in a line over-ihwart the Downs from Brighthelmstone to Ditchelling, from south to north. The first, a * This, for an intrinsically learned man, as we fully know Dr. Relhan to have been, is certainly the most ludicrously absurd vagary that was ever in- dulged in. It would be very amusing to go round the coast etymologising at this rate. " Worth-ing*' must alwa3rs have been a place of merit, whilst " Zanc-ing" sounds both military and chinirgical, and " jBo^-nor" was a northern bog. " Little-ham-pton" Dulcineas must have been famous, like her of Toboso, in Cid Hamete Berengeli's famous history, for the curing of (small) pork; whilst, if they gave their principal attention to this, they pro- bably obtained their milk and butter from '* Cowea,*' in the Isle of Wight. Their peas, of course, came from ** Hastings,** to which they might send their hams in return ; and the same vessels might bring them ** Rye** bread, a palatable and nutritious though brown-looking article ; but it is to be hoped they had not to send for their eggs as far as « JE^^-ham," in Surrey, as the expense would be so great, they would hardly « save their bacon." « Good^ wood," we are inclined to believe, was always a good sort of place ; but, surely, the inhabitants of "5(Z-sea" had not the arrogance to vend any part of that common element either by public or private auction ; this woidd have been their neighbour Selden's Mare Clausum with a vengeance. Proceeding west- ward, we shall find the Isle of ** Pur-beck,*' famous for the tameness and docility of its cats, who were wont to purr, when any one beckoned to them. «* Jl-fra-comh** must have been derived from some lady paramount, whose beautiful or ugly head, as the case might be, was wounded by the tortoise shell, ivory, or gold article stuck in it I'he mouth of the arm of the sea, at « Wey- mouth,'* must have looked like whet/, or else the inhabitants had a particular taste for that composition. But we have not time to pursue Dr. Relhan*s rules of etymology any further. BRIGHTON. 5 large one, called the Castle^ about a mile from Brighton eastward, and a mile from the sea, on the summit of a lofty hill commanding the sea-coast ; the next a smaller, called Hollingbury Castle, nearly about the middle of the Downs, also commanding from a lofty hill, by Stanmer, the whole western sea-coast of Sussex : and the third, a large one, called Ditchelling Castle, containing between twelve and fourteen acres, is the highest point of the Downs thereabouts, and commands part of the sea-coast and all tlie northern edge of the Downs, with the wild underneath it. These are not above three or four miles distant from each other, and form an easy military line of communication with each other, so that nothing of con- sequence could escape their power when well manned with Roman forces, and a Roman navy attendant, if occasion for necessaries. These seem the work of Vespasian, who reduced the Regni, the Belgse, and the Isle of Wight, whilst he commanded the second l^ion here under Claudius, and his general Aulus Plautius. '* There are two other Roman camps of considerable magnitude in the parish of Tetscomb^ near Newhaven, whitlier, it is probable, Vespasian had driven the Regni, as the estuary and final boundary of the district of that tribe, who held the space between Shoreham and Lewes rivers. Here pro- bably they made their last stand, and then submitted. The whole margin of this estuary, from Newhaven to Lewes, seems to have been very populous, and had many towns and viUs. The hundred is called Holmestren in Domesday, or Homestren. Tren is the British word for towns; holme is of Saxon original, and means an isle or fenny place, and this derivation agrees with the situation of the vills along the margin of this estuary. It was usual for the Saxons to compound their names half British and half Saxon, and to put prepositions and adjectives to the names of places before named by the Britons. The pass over this estuary must have been at Lewes, where it was narrowest, by the close approach of the opposite Downs, so as just to leave a narrow pass for the river and land floods ; above and below it was impassable Thus, the Romans must of necessity be well acquainted with this pass over the estuary here, or they could never get from Porttis Adumi, or Shoreham Harbour, to Anderida, or Eastboumf unless by sea, which would not answer to the necessity of their military marches and convoys from station to station, to keep the Britons under in cases of rebellions and insurrections, ETYMOLOGY. *^ Various are the opinions touching the etymology of this town ; if of British denomination, britf brisi, briz, signify divided or separated, as in former ages it most probably was, by a mere flowing along the bottom from Sianemere and Falemere, into the sea, at this town, by the side of the Stane. If of Saxon etymon, the word beorht, briht, berht, and bi^rht, signifying bright; and heal a pharos, or watch-tower, also angulus, a comer or point of a wedge; and hallj and healme, the genitive of which word is healmeg; may all enter their daim as component parts of the name. Camden, in his Latin edition, 1 607, says, our Saxon ancestors called it Brighthealmestun, but the mistake of a Saxon ji for a p is easily made in printing or reading it ; yet if Camden be right, then Brighthealmestun^ taking heal to be a pharos^ is " the seartown by the bright or burning watch-tower," to give directions to sailors by night. If heal is to be () COAST OF SUSSEX. rendered " anguluft," a wedge, pointy or comer, then Dr. Tabor {Philos, Trans. Na 356) explains the meaning. ''That you may more clearly understand the ancient state of tliis country, look into the best map ; at the west end you will find West Harting and Stanstead, distant from each other six or seven miles. Imagine a straight line to be drawn from Harting to Bourne, near Pevensey, and another from a point a little south of Stan- stead to Brighthelmston ; what lies north of these lines is the weald or low lands, formerly the Sylva Anderida; that which is comprehended between these lines, bounded by the sea, from Brighthelmston, is Bourne and the Downs ; the part south of these lines is a flat champaign ground, ending like a wedge at Brighthelmston." Here the flat shore ends in a point at the stanet instantly rises to bold ground next the sea, and in this sense amounts to the " bright sea town," at a point or comer of the flat shore. If by heal is meant a hall, we find, by Domesday, it had a hall, and might from thence give name to the town. If healme be the origin of hawme or thatch, then healme-es is the genitive case, which makes it the bright- thatched town. Again, Brighihelme was no unusual name amongst the Anglo-Saxons, and the town might have had a Saxon owner of that name, whence it might be so called, which, on mature consideration, I conceive to be the true etymology, as Domesday expresses it to be an allodial tenure, and that the Saxon thane who had his hall here gave it his own name."-— J, Elliot— Burrcii MSS. It is doubtful who the Brighthelm was, from whom this place derived its appellation, as there are three individuals of that name who have some claim to the distinction. One a bishop of Fontenoy in France, canonised about the middle of the tenth century, whose claim is favoured by Skinner, but op- posed by Mr. Lee, on the ground that the church would have been dedicated to him, whereas its patron saint was St. Nicholas prior to the Norman Conquest ; the second is thus designated in the Burrell MSS.i — " A. D. 958.— Elfin, archbishop of Canterbury, dyeing on his way to Rome, Brighthelm, bishop of Welles, was translated to the archbishoprick ; lie was a pious, good man. Though a friend to the monks, would not join in violent measures to establish them upon the ruins of the secular clergy; being therefore charged with the want of a proper spirit, he was ejected, and Danstan put in possession of the church of Canterbury.'' A third is thus alluded to in the " Family Topographer," 1832:— '' 693, Brightelm was slain on the down immediately above Brightdm- stone, to which place he gave name." From what chronicle or authority the information is derived, we are left to guess. On consulting Ingram's Saxon chronicle at BRIGHTON. 7 that year, we find that he was also called Drythelm, and that the original has only the following allusion, simply implying that he died: — We are referred, however, in a note by the editor, for some additional particulars to Bede, or Matthew of Westminster; and in the latter, we find that he was a father of a family (pater- familias) in Northumberland, and afterwards took the tonsure in the monastery of Mailros. (Melrose ? not founded then, we believe.) It seems, therefore, very unlikely that he should have any connexion with Brighthelmstone, especially as he has another cdias in the margin of the chronicle, viz., Driiheline. The interest of his story detained our attention ; but it is too long, and otherwise unsuitable for insertion. He is said to have had a remarkable vision during a trance, when he was supposed to be dead, in consequence of which he adopted the monastic life, having first assembled his family, and divided his fortune into three parts ; one of which he gave to his wife, one to his children, and one to the poor. His vision, which related to future states of beatitude and purgatorial punishments, though mixed up with superstitious details, is really beautifully related, in a pure, though flowery Latin style ; in some parts strongly resembling that of the '^ Somnium Scipionis," and scarcely in* ferior to it. \ As Brightelm is, however, said to have been by no means an uncommon name amongst the Saxons, there may be other claimants of great probability ; but to determine the exact in- dividual seems, at the present time, impossible. We may take occasion to speak of Alfred, of his connexion with Sussex, and of other particulars of Anglo-Saxon rule hereafter; but we return now to the authentically recorded history of Brighthelmstone, which, at the conclusion of the tenth century, we find to have belonged to Wulnoth, father of God- win, who was appointed by Ethelred, the King, captain of the Sussex quota of ships towards the famous armament of a.d. 1009, to oppose Canute. On this occasion every proprietor of 310 hides (about 31,000 acres) was required to provide one 8 COAST OF SUSSEX. galley or skiff, and of 8 hides (about 80O) a helmet and breast-plate. " This year were the ships ready, that we hefore spoke about ; and there were so many of them as sever were in England before, in any kin^s days^ as books tell us. And they were all transported together to Sand- wich ; that they should lie there, and defend this land against any out- foroe. But we have not yet had the prosperity and the honour, that the naval armament should be useful to this land, any more than it often before was. It was at this same time, or a little earlier, that Brihtric brother of Alderman Edric, bewrayed Wulnoth, the South-Saxon knigfat, father of Earl Godwin, to the king; and he went into exile, and enticed the navy, till he had with him twenty ships ; with which he plundered everywhere by the south coast, and wrought every kind of mischief. When it was told the navy that they might easily seize him, if they would look about them, then took Brihtric with him about eighty ships ; and thought that he should acquire for himself much reputation, by getting Wulnoth into his hands alive or dead. But, whilst they were proceedings thitherward, there came such a wind against them, as no man remem* bered before ; which beat and tossed the ships, and drove them aground ; whereupon Wulnoth soon came and burned them. When this was known to the remaining ships, where the king was, how the others fared, it was then as if all were lost. The king went home, with the aldermen and the nobility ; and thus lightly did they forsake the ships ; whilst the men that were in them rowed them back to London. Thus lightly did they suffer the labour of all the people to be in vain; nor was the terror lessened, as all England hoped. When this naval expedition was thus ended, then came, soon after Lammas, the formidable army of the enemy, called Thurkill's army, to Sandwich ; and soon they bent their march to Can- terbury ; which city they would quickly have stormed, had they not rather desired peace ; and all die men of East-Kent made peace with the army> and gave them three thousand pounds for security. The army soon after that went about till they came to the Isle of Wight; and everywhere in Sussex, and in Ham])shire, and also in Berkshire, they plundered and burned, as their custom is*. Then ordered the king to summon out all the population, that men might hold firm against them on every side ; but nevertheless they marched as they pleased. On one occasion the king had begun his march before them, as they proceeded to their ships, and all the people were ready to fall upon them ; but the plan was then frustrated through Alderman Edric, as it ever is still. Then after Martinmas they went back again to Kent, and chose their winter-quarters on the Thames ; obtaining their provisions from Essex, and from the shires that were next, on both sides of the Thames. And oft they fought against the city of London ; but glory be to God, that it yet standeth firm: and they ever there met with ill fare."— /Sojron Chronicle.-^Ingranu • « These expressions in the present tense afford a strong proof that the original records of these transactions are nearly coe\'al with the transactions themselves. Later M SS. use the past tense." — Ingram* BRIGHTON. 9 Wulnoth, it should seem, was very ill used in the first instance, having been scandalously misrepresented by the treacherous Brihtric, whose brother also, " the Alderman^^ (or Earl), Edric Streon, Duke of Mercia, was a very false character. Brihtric, conscious of his own ill intentions towards the weak Ethelred, his father-in-law, whom he afterwards betrayed to Canute, re^ ceiving a villain^s recompense, viz. the unexpected loss of his head, dreaded the probity and influence of Wulpoth, and con- sequently did his best to drive him from the court, and Wul- noth, aware that he should not have justice, did not repair thither to answer the accusation against him. The ships which revolted to him consisted entirely of the Sussex quota, by which it seems probable that he was there well thought of. Nothing further is reported of him, but it is supposed that he returned under Canute, and enjoyed his confidence, as we find his son, Godwin, in early favour with that monarch. In 1019 the latter accompanied Canute in his expedition to Denmark, to repel the invading Vandals, and in the course of the warfare performed an act of romantic bravery. Perceiving a favourable opportunity on the evening previous to an intended engage- ment, he left his post, which was the nearest to the enemy, attacked and routed them: so that when the king reached the hostile camp next morning, having been abandoned, as he supposed, by Godwin, he found the camp strewed with the enemies* bodies, and the latter, whom he afterwards met, in the quality of a conqueror. For this and other services he was created Earl of Kent, Sussex, and Surrey ; married first Thyra, sister to Ulphon, brother-in-law to Canute, and after her death the Lady Girth, sister to Swayn, King of Denmark, and continued to extend his numerous possessions* Of the lives of Godwin and Harold we cannot, however, now speak further ; we have merely alluded to them as being lords of Brighton, together with about forty other places in Sussex. On the hasty approach of Harold towards that part of the southern coast, where the Norman invader had encamped, the neighbourhood of Pevensey, he increased his forces by some levies quickly raised in Brighthelmstone and some neigh* 10 COAST OF SUSSEX. bouring places, whose inhabitants flew with alacrity to the succour of the popular and unfortunate monarch. His lamented catastrophe need not be now related. Among the various incursions of the sea, by which it has been supposed the Sussex coast has been ravaged, we have not seen the following alluded to, mentioned in the Saxon Chronicle, A. D. 1014. " This year, on the eve of St Michael's day, came the great seorflood, which spread wide over the land, and ran so far up as it never did before, overwhdming many towns and an innumerable multitude of people." Harold succeeded his father in two of the manors of Bright- helmstone ; the third was given to a man named Brictric, for his life only, an established term of possession, under the title of Thaneland *. DOOMSDAY BOOK— 1086. BRIGHTHELMSTON. THREE MANORS. ^'Radulfus ten. de Will'o, Bristelmestune. Brictric tenuit de dono com. Godwin!. T. R. E. et m», se deTd p. S hid' et dimid'. Tra' e' 3 car. Jn d'nio e' dimid' car. et 18 viU'i et 9 bord' cu' 3 car. et uno servo. De Gablo 4 mill' aletium t. T. R. £. val't 8lib. et 12 soL et post c. soL modo 12 lib. " In ead' villa, ten^ Widardus de Will'o 6 hid' et una v*. et p' tanto se defd*. ** Tres aloarii tenner' de Rege E., et potuer' ire quollbet. Un' ex eis habuit aula': et vill'i tenner' partes alior' duor. T'ra e' 5 car. et est in uno M. In d'nio un' car. et dim', et xiii vill'i, et xxi bord', cu' 3 car. et dimid': ibi vii ac' p'ti et silua pore. In Lewes 4 hagee. T. R. E. val't x lib., et post viil lib., modo xii lib. " Ibide' ten' Wills, de Watevile Bristdmestune deWiUo. Uluuard tenuit de Rege £. T'c et modo se defd' p. 6 hid' et dim'. Tra e 4 car. In d'nio e' 1 car , et 13 vill'i, et ii Bord' cu' una car'. Ibi (Ecd'a. « T. R. E. val't X lib. et post 8 lib', modo 12 lib'." TRANSLATION. '^ Ralph holds of William (de Warren) Bristelmestune. Brictric held it from the gift of Earl Godwin. In the time of King Edward and now. * Lee's <' History of Lewes and Brigbthelmston," 8vo. 1795, a work of much research and ingenuity: — it is to be regretted that it has an occasional infusion of a rather unnecessarily caustic spirit. We believe the existence of this work is, at present^ almost unknown in Brighton. We sought it in vain from an University library, and at length found it in the British Museum. f Note by Sir W. B — " 4000 pounds w« of herrings, or 4000 herrings, tbo* it 15 written miUenarium, not mtZfe, in some places in y* Rape." BRIGHTON. 11 it defends itsdf for 5 hides and a half. The land (araUe) is 3 canicates. In demesne is half a carucate and 18 villeins and 9 hordars^ with 3 ploughs and one servant. Of the gahel (customary payment) 4 thousand of her- rings. In the time of King Edward it was worth 8 pounds and 12 shill- ings, and afterwards 100 shillings. Now 12 pounds. " In the same vill, Widard holds of William 6 hides and one virgate, and for so much it defends itself. Tliree aloarii (customary tenants) held it of ELing Edward, and could go where they pleased. One of them had a hail, and the villeins held the portions of the other two. The land is 5 carucates, and is in one manor. In demesne one caracute and a half and 14 villeins and 21 hordars with 3 carucates and a half: there are 8 acres of meadow and a wood for hogs. In Lewes 4 Hage (not exactly known, by some thought to be shops.) In the time of King Edward it was worth 10 pounds, and afterwards 8 pounds: now 12 pounds. " In the same place William de Wateville holds Bristdmestune of William. Ulward held it of King Edward. Then and now it defends itself for 5 hides and a half. The land is 4 carucates. In demesne is 1 carucate^ and 13 villeins and 2 bordars with one plough. There is a church. ** In the time of King Edward it was worth 10 pounds, and afterwards 8 pounds, now 12 pounds." The first of these is the manor called " Brighthelmstone- hewes^' the second ^^Mkhel-ham^ and the third " Atlyng- worth.^ William de Warren, Earl of Surrey, was son-in-law to the Conqueror, who bestowed on him, in addition to many possessions in other counties, the whole Rape of Lewes, form- ing about a sixth part of the county of Sussex. We subjoin the various possessors, the succession, and a few incidental particulars of these manors from the Norman conquest till the commencement of the present century : an inquiry which many of our readers may consider of a dry and generally un- interesting nature ; and we confess that we heartily agree with them ; but custom and inexorable criticism require it, and will launch their fulminations at our head if we omit it ; we therefore enter upon it, with no indisposition to find ourselves at the end — '* 'Tis a very excellent piece of work, madam lady ; — would H were done !^ BRIGHTHELMSTON-LEWES. BurreU MSS :^partlif abridged. '* Hen. I. or Stephen. Radulfus de Caisneto or Ralph de Cheney was seised of a manor or lands here. *' 29 Hen. III. ^Valter de Grey, abp. of York, granted all liis lands at 12 COAST OF SUSSEX. Brightdmston to Walter de Grey, son of his brother Robert de Grey, which he had from Joane. « 6 Ed. I. John Earl Warren. " 6 Ed. II. John de Warren, Comes, Surr:— Brightdmston, MercaC z Fer : " 9 Ed. II. Prior of Lewes seised. Qy. lb. John E. Warren rdeased this manor to the king and his heirs. 4 Aug., 1317, John E. Warren. John Earl Warren. 16 Ed. II. ' 19 Ed. II. same 22R II. ^^ '^^^'"^ 1 Hen. IV. > Richard E. of Arundel. 6 Octr. same year, granted to Thomas D. of Norfolk. This manor (inter alia) pared of possessions of D. of Norfolk to John D. of Exeter. Earl of Arundd restored to his estate. " 21 E. III. John de Warren, Earl of Surrey: and the Earl of Arundd is his hdr. " 1 Hen. IV. Thos. E. of Arundell being restored in blood, and the judge- ment against his father reversed in parliament, this manor became vested in him (inter alia) of which he died seised. 3 Hen. V., Oct. 13, U15, waa succeeded by his cozen, hr. male, Sir J. Fitzalan at Arunddl, who dyed 29 April, 9 Hen. V. *' 3 Hen. V. Thos. Earl of Arundel died seised of this manor, bdng re- stored in blood by act of parliament, 1 Hen. IV., and his father's judge- ment reversed: he married, 6 Hen. IV. Beatrix, an illegitimate daughter of the King of Portugal, and d. 3 Hen. V., 13th Oct. S. P. this manor, by virtue of an entail of Rd. E. of Arundell, passed to his cousin and next male heir, Sir John Fitzalan E. of Arundel. " 4 Hen. V. Thos. Earl of Arundd. 7 Hen. V. PhiUp St. Clere. 1 Hen. VI. Margaret, wife of Philip Seynt Clerc and John her sou. 4 Hen. VI. On the partition in Chancery. John D. of Norfolk had this manor with its appendages, estimated at 18/. \6s. 7(L '' 17 Hen. VI. Thos. Seynt Clere holds the manor of Brighton with lands and messuages in the same. 18 Hen. VI. Beatrix, Countess of Arundd, held Brighton manor. 3 Henry VII. Wra. Marqs. of Berkdey was seised of ^th of this manor, which he devised to Hen. VII. in default of issue male of his owh body, to the disinheritance of his brother Maurice, who recovered this ^th part in 19 Hen. VII. *' In 4 Hen. VIII. One moiety of this manor, with several other pos- sessions in Sussex, was recovered by petition by Thomas Earl of Surrey, they having been devised by the Marquis of Berkdey to Hen. VII., and an act passed in the 7th of that king, whilst the petitioner was absent on the king's business in the north, and ignorant of it till the said parliament was ended. The answer is ' Soit fait come i lest desireeJ The petition, which is complex, is contained in Uie Burrell MSS. 5685. Fol. 36, 37. ** 32 Hen. VIII. The king granted this manor and advowson to Ann of Cleves ; with a great many others in Sussex. a a BRIGHTOK. 13 {t 2 Mary. ' The queen on the 27th day of Not. let to faim to William May, valet of the Idtchen, the manor of Brightelston with all its appur- tenances for 21 years, from the feast of St. Michael last past, for the an- nual rent of 6/. 13j. W/ (Translation.) " 8 Eliz. Richard Sacvile held it at 6LlS9.id. who died Apl. 21 in that year. '' 28 Eliz. 17 Oct Sir Philip Sidney died, and £liz., wife of Roger, £. of Rutland, was, on inquisition, found his daughter and heir, and ao seised of one moiety of this manor, value 10/. 13j. 4 Regis Anglie, et me^ et Radulphi de Glanvilla, et prsnominati Rogeri de Clara fratris mei et D'nie Berts uxoris praedicti Radulphi de GlanWlla ; corpus etiain meum eidem loco S'd Pancracii et patribus meis, monachis de Lewes ibidem sepeliendum. Test. Rado. de Plaiz^ Rado. fil^ ejus.^ Will'mo de Garen> Rob'to de Petraponte, Bartho'meo de Caineto^ Rad'o de Clera."— '—" Carta qualiter Rogerus de Clere filij Rogeri de Clere dedit monachis de Lewes totam terram de Athelingworth. Test^ &c '* Hawisiade Gumaioo salutem" Sciatis me concesdsse monachis de Lewis totam terram de Athe- lingworth quam in dotem accepi ex donatione Rogeri de Clare mariti mei, sicut Roger de Clera et Radulphus frater et heres ipdus dederunt. " — " 25|E. 1. Ric'us^ fiL Johannis^ Addlingworth."— roM;er Records, No, SO, ** 6 H.' 6. De quarta parte feod. milit in Athelyngworth in Hundr. de Fyshergate dicunt quod sit in manu Plrioris de Lewes et est dec"— Inq* capt, ap. Lewes, 6 Hen. 6. " 11 H. 4." As Clai/ton. ** 38 £liz. * Mem. at this c* there was much question betw. Mr. Snelling^ now lord of this manor^ and divers customary tenants of y* said manor, whose fynes and heriots were stinted by Sir Jn. Caryll during y« time he was lord of y« manor^ whether y« s'^ fynes and heriots shd continue and remain stinted accg to S*^ Jn. C/s grant (which y* tenants laboured to uphold) or be arbitrable at y« lord's will (which Mr. Snelling urged), for that all or most part of y* s-fruit8 and advantages and various things, let to Richard NiooUe for a term of yean, and the rent thence by the year 16/." DEANERY OF LEWES. " Leonard Savell, derk, vicar there ^ it is worth, clear, by the year, with all first-fruits and advantages, beyond 'is. 2ld. annually paid to the Bishop of Chichester for annual procuration ; 6s. Sd, paid to the Archdeacon of Chichester for annual procuration ; 19d. paid to the same Archdeacon for synodals; 7s. 6d. paid to the Vicar of the church of Hove, for annual pension ; 201 2s. 1 i EUU, f Disanchored. — Mr, Ellis, from Grafton, 34 COAST OF SUSSEX. established against future incursions. Fir^t then as to the ships, their number rather exceeds twenty: the largest has four masts, several three, some two, and the remainder are long row-galleys with one mast and a single long and large Latine sail (though not so immense as that of Mr. Bruce*s Abyssinian Kais, which was 200 feet in length). We should not suppose, from its appearance, that the largest exceeded 600 or 700 tons, and it does not seem as if it carried more than about twelve large guns *, The decks are raised at the prows and sterns in three or four stages, like the towered barks of the Romans. Each ship is adorned with eight or ten pen- nons or streamers; some have a large gold fleur-de-lys on blue, others a red cross on white. On the sea, towards the west side, is inscribed — " Shypes may ride all somer tern in a myle the towne in V fathorae water.*" On the west side — ^' Thesse grete shyppes rydeng hard abode shore by shoting into the hill and wallies on the towne, so sore oppresse the towne that the countrey dare not aduenture to resscue it.'* * There are smaller apertures, which may be port-holes, above, but only four large ones on each side. This is much inferior to the armament of the brave Sir Andrew Barton, in the year 1511, as described in the fine old ballad in Dr. Percy's collection. • • • • He is brass within, and steel without. With beams in his top-castle strong. And eighteen pieces of ordinance He carries on each side along — And he hath a pinnace deerly dight, St. Andrew's cross, that is his guide. His pinnace beareth ninescore men. And fifteen cannons on each side. Were ye twenty ships, and he but one, I swear by kirk and bower and hall. He would overcome them every one. If once his beams they do down felL « • • • Dr. Percy thinks that the mode of defence here alluded to, was the relic oC an ancient invention of the Romans, called Dolphins^ which were heavy weights of lead or iron, or, in the present instance, bc^ms, suspended by ropes to the main-top-mast. On an enemy*s ship being brought dose alongside, the ropes were cut, and the beams falling on the deck of the hostile ship with great force» either sunk or materially damaged it. BBIGHTON. Sd Next, as to the shore and town. There are no houses here under the cliff, which puzzles us as to the meaning of that ex- pression. The town lies west of the present opening to the Steyne^ and consists of two or three streets and lanes, the outer line of the whole forming a square, ^< a felde^ is in the middle of the town. The valley coming from Lewes is designated, as also that from " Ponynge,** between " Brithampston'** and Hove. At the bottom, next the sea, is inscribed — ^^ Upon this west pte may lond c m p'sones (100,000 persons) unletted by any pMsion there." The church is badly drawn, some persons near it appear as if in an attitude of supplication : above are two " wynde mylles,'' and still higher " the bekon of the towne,^ a blazing saucer-shaped receptacle on a pole. Hoove church is, judging from the ruins, very incorrectly drawn ; the village consists of a few houses near the sea. Further westward is inscribed — *^ The west parte of Brethampston, lowe all daungerous and wout cleves (without cliffs).'* At the present opening of the Steyne is inscribed — '^ Here landed the galeys.^' Many houses in the town are on fire. The soldiers represented on the shore we suppose to be meant for the French : they are dressed in red, with the red cross bluiner on a white ground ; others just landing are in blue, with the banner of blue and fleur-de-lys, whom we conjecture to be the sailors. About the spot where Tuppen's library now stands is " the towne fire cage,^ — a large blazing grate, very similar to those now suspended in an evening at the yard-arms of colliers — hanging by a massive chain from a cross beam, on the see- saw principle, raised on an upright, probably from thirty to forty feet high : this must have been an effective beacon, but it is surprising that it was not placed on higher ground. On- the east cliff is inscribed — " The east pte of Brithampston riseng onelye on cleves high :^ but there are no houses in this direction. There is in this map a reckless and intrepid abandonment of what is now termed perspective. It appears by it, that the roads to the church, also to Poynings and Lewes, were exactly perpendicular ; and the inhabitants must have perpetually been S6 COAST OF SUSSEX. under the unpleasant necessity of going on all fours, and even then would often need a little friendly assistance, d priori, or otherwise. Some of the galleys on landing at the beach are making a summerset, and tumbling backwards. The relative dimensions of the men and their houses must also have been then on a very different plan to what they are now, the former being larger than the latter : but these are trifles. In 1558, 1 Eliz., was erected the Block-House, a circular building, fifty feet in diameter, eight feet thick, and eighteen feet high ; in the walls were arched apartments for powder, &c. ; and in front the " Gun Garden," containing a battery of four pieces of iron ordnance. A further description of these works will be found a few pages beyond. Court Rolls. ** 1 Eliz. At a Court BaroD^ holden for this manor^ 27th Sq>t, ihexe was granted to the inhabitants of Brighton town by the lords, one parcel of land, containing in length 30 feet, in breadth 16 feet, to build diereon a store-house to keep armes, &&, now called the Block-house. Also at the Court, holden for Atlingworth manor, 3 Jac. 9 Jan. the homage presented that the north part of the block-house aforesaid is built on part of the demesnes of that manor.*— IZoic^e^ MSS, apud BurrelL A record, dated ISTQ^ states that, ^^ there are in the said town of Brighthelmston of fishing-boats four score in number, and of able mariners four hundred in number, with ten thou- sand fishing-nets, besides many other necessaries belonging to their mystery.** — Relhan. A false alarm, in 1586, of the approach of the Spanish armada, gave the inhabitants of the coast an opportunity of evincing their promptitude and zeal. Fifty ships appeared in the o£5ng, apparently waiting for a suitable time for landing. An express was sent to Lord Buckhurst, lord lieutenant of the county, and one of the lords of the manor of Brighton, who assembled all the armed men he could muster, and took post between Brighton and Rottingdean. In the night his forces were increased to 1600 men, with the additional encouragement of BRIGHTON. 27 the announced approach of a body of Kentish men to render their aid. The fleet still showing no demonstrations of hostile intention, in the morning afew boats ventured out to reconnoitre, and found them to be Dutch vessels laden with Spanish wine, and waiting for a favourable wind to proceed up the Channel. — L^. At the actual approach of the Spanish armada the inhabit- ants exerted themselves with diligence ; they had then in the town, belonging to government, six pieces of great iron ord- nance and ten ^^ qualivers^ a kind of small cannon. — lb. The shores of Sussex were lined by people when this armada passed by, pursued by the light and expert navy of England, with a determination of obstinate resistance.— /&• In 1584*, Willm. Midwinter, sailor, sold the scite of St; Bartholomew to Thos. Friend and others, in trust for the town, for the sum of 44Z. — lb. In 1648, Henry Hilton, commonly called Baron Hilton, of Hilton, Co. Palatine of Durham, left to the town of Brighton S4/. per ann. for 99 years. — Lee. Court Rolls, ^ i April, 1645. Homage present Willm. Gallan^ jun., for not paying to BiL Cook, lord's reeve, for his lady net's fishing, according to ye ancient cnatom ^d^ give him time to pay it to the said R. C, at or before St. Jo. Baptist next, on payn of &s''—BurreU MSS. ** 25 Aug. 1648. We present Nichs. Payne for building bis new house and shop mider the cHfi^ upon the bank of the clifi> to the hurt and annoyance of the whole towne, if we shd. have any occasion to use the ordnance, or that there shd. be any invasion by a foreign enemy."— /6. '' 25 Aug. 1654. We present Nics. Payne for encroaching on the lord's wasto, and building of his walls 14 feet, or thereabout, more than he is admitted to, to ye difie side, before ye place where ye great guns path doth stand to ye annoyance and great hindrance of ye whole towne and country, and we fine him for it."— 76. About the middle of the 17th century, the mariners of Brighton were not prosperous; frequent captures had injured their trade. The sea began to encroach on the coast of Sussex, bv one of those unaccountable revolutions of nature, deserting S8 COAST OF SUSSEX. some places and invading others. Previous to 1665 it had de- stroyed 22 copyhold tenements under the clifip, in the manor of Brighton LeweSy among which were 12 shops, with 4 stdke^ places and 4 capstan-places attached to them, and 3 cottages and 3 parcels of land adjoining. There remained under the clifiP 113 tenements, shops, capstan-places, stake-places, and cottages, which were finally demolished by terrible storms in 1708 and 1705.— JVom Lee. The next and most remarkable event in the history of Brighton, is the escape of Charles II.: and here we are enabled to lay before the reader a veey curious and recherche article indeed, to which we beg strongly to challenge his attention ; as to those who have an avidity for curious pieces of antiquity, it will be actually worth more than the cost of the volume. The MS. has only recently come into the possession of the British Museum, and was not previously generally known to be in existence. It has, of course, never been published, nor even publicly read throughout ; but on a part of it being read, Nov. SI, 18S2, before the Royal Society of Literature, they pronounced it to be a work of great curiosity, as supplying a gap (connected with the escape of Charles II.) in the general history of England, never before filled up. The MS. was copied for our express use, and is now published by special permission (limited to us), obtained with some little difficulty from the trustees of the British Museum. Information of the existence of this manuscript came to us at a very late period, and we had not even time to read it through previous to its being transcribed ; but we can rely with the fullest confidence on its fidelity ; and of the original we may say, as Hamlet did of the Ghost, — ** We would take its word for a thousand pound." It may not be inappropriate to add, in this captious age, that we insert this ancient record as a curious article of history^ which may now be read with the interest of a romance, and BRIGHTCK. 29 that we do not desire to be identified with all the sentiments it contains. Still less^ however, do we wish to venture out on the tempestuous sea of politics. May fair morning yet betide us after a stormy night ; and may our best and most worthy landmarks, after being long darkened by boiling and contending surges, lift up their snowy heads again in calm and sunshine ! Still we fearlessly hasten to acknowledge, even in this age, that we entertain a respect for the motives and principles of many of the Royalists ; as undeniably possessing one intrin- sically noble quality, not always practically experienced in modem times — faithful disinterestedness. Really believing in the divine right and sacredness of person in the existing monarch, they were willing to risk their whole substance and their life in defending it. Granting it might be a delusion, was it not a happy one, as supplying a highly interesting motive of action, where virtue was associated with the most cherished sympathies ? And where, in any party of the pre- sent day, shall we easily find love and friendship equal to loyalty in the seventeenth century ! " The last actj in the tniracuhut Storieqfkis Mtiet escape; being a true and perfect relation of his conveyance, through many dangers f to a safe harbour ; out of the reach of his tyranicall enemies ; by Colonell Gounler ; of Rackton in Sussex; who had the happines to bee instrumentall in the busines, Cos it was taken from his mouth by a person of worth a little before his death J" ** The king was now attHeale, within three miles of Salisbury, where we begin our storie : — My Lord Willmot, his faithful and watchful attendant, att Salisburie ; there Dr. Hinchman, now the right reverend Bp. of Salisbury (inspired by God himself, as may well be thought by the successe), gave him counsel); first, to try att Lawrence Hyde\ Esq., living at Hinton Dambray in Hamsbire, neere the sea side, what could lie done for a passage ; then, if that did not succeed, to repaire to Coll. George Gounter at Rackton, fower miles fix>m Chi- so COAST OF SUSSEX. Chester in Sussex, being verie confident of his fidelitie, and that he would contribute to the uttmost of his power to bring this great and weightie business^ as for the difficulties they must encounter, soe for the consequence, if conclusive, to a good end. Here, before I proceed with, hope the reader will give mee leave to put in mind, that wee wryte not an ordinarie storie^ where the reader, engaged by noe other interest than curiositie, may soone bee cloyed with circumstances, which signify no more unto him, but that the author was all good leisure, and was very confident of his readers patience. In the relation of miracles every petty circumstance is material!, and may affbacd to the judicious reader matter of good speculation ; of such a miracle, especiallie where the restauration of noe less than three kingdomes, and his owne particular libertie and safetie (if a good and faithful subject) was att the stake; I may not, therefore, omitt to lett him knowe howe things stood with the Colonell at that tyme. Not above fourteene dayes before the said Colonell Gounter was confined, upon paine of imprisonment, not to stirre five miles from home. In the very nick of tyme, when hee was first thought upon for soe great a worke, comes a messenger with a warrant from the Commis- sioners of Haberdashers Hall, London, to summon him to appeare before them within ten dayes to pay twoe hundred pounds for his fifth and twentieth part which they had sett him, upon peyne of sequestration upon default. He first re- fused, and told the messenger that he was confined, and could not goe five miles from home ; but he left with him the order, and told him it should be att his perill if he did not obey it. The Coll. the next day repaired to Chichester, fower miles from him, to the commissioners there, to shew them his order ; they peremptorily replyed he must goe, and his order would bear him out. Hee went accordingly and compounded with them, and gott off a 1002. of the twoe hundred he was sett att ; but his credit being shaken, the current running then soe hard against the king, the royal party, and all good men, that he could not borrowe the money in all London ; hee was forced,. BRIGHTON. SI with all speede, to repaire into the countrej, and went privatly to his usurer, who bad the security of his whole estates ; he shewed him his danger, and requested to borrowe [the money] upon his bond and his former securitie, who readily con- descended, and told him out the money ; the next day he was to call for it and seale the bond. Hee had noe sooner ended this busines, beeing stayed by some friends longer than hee in. tended, butt that very night hee came home (being 7 October, 1651) hee found some att his house whoe were come about their designe. I think it will easily bee graunted by any that reades and considers, that this was not without a providence, since that it is apparent, that if his friends had come before hee had beene licensed to goe abroad, hee must needes have been excused ; and if they had come much after, it was possible a new restraint might have come betweene ; or his liliertie in godng soe freely up and downe after his busines ended more suspected. But now to the storie and entertainement of his guests : —betwixt eight and nine of the clock att night, the Coll. came home ; entering in at his doore the ColL^s ladye mett him, and told him there was in the parlour a Deavonshire gentleman, sent by Mr. Hyde, aforesaid, about a reference, which none besydes yourself can decide: at the CoU.'s oomming in, he found his Deavonshire gentleman sitting att one end of the chimney, Captain Thomas Counter att the other, and his lady (which was gone in before) in the middle. The gentleman rose and saluted him : the Coll. presently knewe him to be the Ld. WiJmot ; which the noble I^ord perceiving, took the Colin asyde to the windowe : I see you know me (baid he) doe not owne mee. Captaine Thomas Grounter, the Colls, kinsman, for all he had a long tyme beene in the Army and under his com- mand, knew him not, wch was strange, the noble Lord beeing but meanly disguised. After a bottle of sack, a short collation which was made readie as soon as it could. My Lords man Swan coming in to waite whispered his maister in the eare ; and told him, my Lord Wentworths boy Lonie was without, and wished him to bee carefuU for feare the boy should knowe him : being taken by Captaine Thomas Counter in distress att S2 COAST OF 8USSKX. Chelsey, and cloathed bj him to wayte upon him. Supper endedj there was whispering betweene the Colls kinsman and his lady, and shee told him shee was confident of a disguise, and that it was the Mr. by his hand. Hee beat her off of it as much as he could, suspecting noe such matter himselfe. Within halfe an hower after supper the Coll. offered the noble lord [my Lord Wilmot] then by name Mr. Barlowe, it being late, and as the greatest courtesie hee could then shewe him, to waite upon him to his chamber, and to bedd ; which hee readily tooke up the candle the noble lord following him accepted. The Coll [ accordingly waited onn him 1, his Lady and kinsman attending. When he came into the cham- ber, it beeing late, the Coll. desired his Lady and kinsman to goe to bedd and leave him ; for he was bound to waite upon this Gentleman awhyle. They tooke leave, and bidd him The noble good night [ My ] Lord, and y® Coll. being alone, hee broke the business unto the Coll. with these words, sighing: The King of England my maister, your muster, and the maister of all good EngUshmen, is neere you and in great distresse ; can you help us to a boate ? The Coll. looking very saddly, after some pause, said. Is hee well : Is hee safe : He said yeas : The Coll. replyed God be blessed, and gave him a reason for his question; if he should not bee secure, he doubted not but he could secure him, till a boate could bee gotten. The noble L*^. not knowing what had beene done, beene and what course had [Mrs. Hide] taken for securing of his Ma^^. at Heale, since he came away, answered the Col. He hoped hee was out of daunger at present, but intended to bee at his house with him, on the Wensday. Soe he said and soe it seemes it was resolved: but second thoughts, and unex- pected accommodations elsewhere, had altered the designe. However upon the hearing of this the Coll**, thoughts were much raised, in expectation of such a guest; untill he was better informed as hee was soone after, to his great content and satisfaction^ knowing the house well, and the conveniencies thereof, and the worth, and fidelitie of the persons. Now to the maine busines of procuring a boate: The Col. told the BRIGHTON. 33 Lord seriously, and nothing but the trueth, that for all he lived soe neere the sea; yet there was noe man living, soe little acquainted with these kind of men: However as hee thought himselfe bound by all obligations sacred and civill, to would doe his utmost to preserve his King : soe he [did] faithfully promise with all possible care and alacritie, yea expedition (which he accounted to bee the life of such a busines ;) to acquitt himselfe of his dutie. The noble Lord, my Hon«d friend (6 that God had beene pleased to have spared him life :) was abundantly satisfied with this answer, hugging him in his arroes, and kist his cheeke againe and againe. For that tyme the Coll. bid him good night, desiring him to rest secure, for that he would watch, whylest he slept, and that he doubted not,, but in good tyme all would bee well. Comming into his chamber, he found his wyfe had stayed up for him, and was very earnest to knowe whoe this was, and what was his busines. The Coll. desired her to excuse him, assuring her it was nothing concerning her, or, that would any wayes damnifye her. Shee was confident there was more in it than soe, and enough shee doubted, to ruine him, and all his family ; and in that, said shee, I am concerned ; breaking out into a very great passion of weeping. Which the Coll. seeing, tooke a candle pretending to goe into the next roome, but privatly to my Lord WiUmot, and acquainted him how it was ; asking his advice, whether, as the case stood, it were any way amisse, to acquaint her with it. That he durst passe his word, for the loyaltie and integritie of his wife : however without his The Noble allowance shee should knowe nothing. [ My ] Lord re- plyed ; No, no, by all meanes acquaint her with it. He humbly thancked him, and badd him good night againe. The Col. comming. into his chamber unfojded the busines, wyped the teares of his ladyes eyes, whoe amiling, said, Goe on, and prosper. Yet I feare you will hardly doe it : However said the Coll. I must endeavour, and will doe my best, leaving the successe to God Almightie : his lady deporting herselfe, during the whole carriage of the busines with soe much discretion, 34 COAST OF SUSSEX. courage, and fidelitie, that (without vanity bee it spoken) shee seemed (her danger considered) to outgoe her seze. Ney ther will the reader thinck this an impertinent circumstance, since the sue- cesse of the busines did not a little depend of her concuirance. ^* The Coll. contenting himselfe with very little sleepe that night, rose very early the next morning, being Wednesday the 8^^ of Octobre ; as he had promised the Lord Wilmot ; and rode to Elmsworth, a place twoe miles from him, and by the sea syde, passing through Boome. He tooke an old servant of his formerly, John Day, a trustie man and very loyall subject whoe was related to seamen of very good accoumpt; whoe with their Barkes used to lye there: But they being out of the way, could doe noe good there : although fower yeares after, the Col. did att the same place, att his owne charges, hire a barke for the Lord Wilmot, whoe came over att his Mat'^c command, and loosing his desire, was forced to come from allmost the furthest North to the South, before hee could gett a passage. Soe few friends had then his Sacred Ma^^^ in his distresses, now soe numerous in expectation of rewards. The Col. hasted all be could home to give my Lord accoumpt, who had promised not to stirre, till the Co- lonell came ; but being impatient of any delay, had left the CoPs. house, soe that the Col. mett him within halfe a mile of it ; and gave him an accoumpt of his mornings worke that nothing could be done where he had beene. The noble Lord and the Coll. rid on, and went to Langstone^ a place by the sea, and where boates use. As he was riding along hee put his hand in his pocket, and missed his money, for comming away in hast from the ColPs. house he had left it behinde him in bis bedd. Immediatly he sent his man Swan for it. The ColPs. Ladye hearing my Lord was gone, which shee much wonderd att, had beene in his chamber and found the bedd open ; and in the middle a black purse full of gold, which shee had secured, and gave it the man when he came for it. When wee wee wee [they] came to Langston [they] attempted all [they] could ; but in vaine. The noble Lord and the Coll. eate oisters there. BRIGHTON. 35 and then they parted ; the Lord, to Mr. Hydes house afore- said, there to expect the accoumpt of the Colls, proceedings ; the CoIL came home ; and immediately imployed his kinsman, Captaine 1'homas Counter, (whoe by this, was made ac- quainted ;) to inquire of severall other places, and to meet the Coll. next day att Chichester, to give him an accoumpt : all which the Coll. imparted that night to my Lord Willmot, att Mr. Hydes house att Hinton Daubney aforesaid. After supper, the Coll. tooke his leave of the Lord, it being a very dismall night for winde and raine : which made the Lord very much to importune the Coll. to stay ; but he refused, replying that delay es were dangerous, andlett the weather be what it would he had a sure guide. '^ The Coll. touched att his owne house by the way, betwixt one and twoe of the clock that night ; and layd downe upon his bedd, and after twoe houres rest, rose from bedd and went immediately to Chichester, to meete his kinsman, Thomas Counter (9th of October), according to appointment. From whomc hee received this accoumpt, that both he and his kinsman, Mr. William Rishton, a loyall gentleman, and one engaged all along in the warre, under the Colls, command, had endeavoured all they could, but without successe. Then the Coll. bethought himself, and conceived the next and best expedient, would be to treat with a French merchant, one that usually traded into France; and went to one Mr. Francis Mancell, a stranger then to the Coll. and only known unto him by face, as casually he had mett him with severall other companies, pretending to give him a visitt, and to bee better acquainted with him. He received him courteously, and entertained him with a bottle or twoe of his French wine, and Spanish tobacco. After a whyle the Coll. broke the busines to him, saying, I doe not only come to visitt you, but must request one favour of you. He replyed ; Any thing in his power. Then the Coll. asked him, if hee could fraught a barke ; for, said he, I have twoe speciall friends of mine, that have beene engaged in a duell, and there is mischief done, and I am obliged to gett them of if I can. Hee doubted not h2 36 COAST OF SUSSEX. butt be could att such a place, att Brigbthemston in Sussex. The Coll. prest bim tben to goe witb bim immedeatly, and if be could effect ibe busines, bee would give bim fifty pounds for bis peynes ; but it being Stowe faire day tbere and bis partner out of tbe way, bee could not possibly untill tbe next day, and tben be promised bim fiutbfuUy bee would goe with wee bim, and doe bis best. Soe accordingly [they] agreed. " Tben tbe Coll. whoe bad promised to tbe noble Lord Will- mot, an accoumpt att Mr. Hydes bouse aforesaid, once in twelve or 24} boures at furthest repayred thyther accordingly and told him all that was done. Tbe noble Lord approved, and liked his proceedingB [the way wondrous] well. It being very late, and very darke, and boistrous weather, tbe Coll. tooke bis leave. His horse being allmost spent, be borrowed a horse of bis kinsman Mr. Hide whoe lent him bis faulkners horse beeing as it seemes tbe best be tben bad which served to carrie bim home ; and tbe next morning to Chichester. The Coll. tooke his owne bouse in tbe way, and rested upon a bedd for a whyle, and went unto Chichester, the lOtb of October being Fryday ac- cording to former appointment. Tbe merchant being destitute of a horse, the Coll. horst him upon tbe horse borrowed of Mr. Hyde, and borrowed one for himselfe of bis kinsman Captaine Thomas Gounter, and went away accordingly, de- siring his kinsman to repaire*to my Lord Willmot, and to give him the accoumpt of bis departure from Chichester, in further prosecution of the busines, ^d to remaine witb bim in order to bis commands during bis absense. Tbe marchant went immedeatly to inquire; but tbe seaman be chiefly depended upon, was gone for Chichester, whoe had bargained for a fraught there ; but as Providence would have it, be touched att Shoram, fower myles from Brigbtemston. I perswaded tbe marchant, to send to bim immediatly, to come to him upon earnest busines ; and [he] doubted not but be would come^ which tooke effect accordingly. Tbe Coll. bad agreed with tbe marchant, to treat with tbe boatman, beeing bis affaire and trade; be to sett by as newter, promising the marchant, to BRIGHTON. 37 make good, and to pay bim, wbatere he should agree for ; but vithall desired, to gett it as lowe as he could. They stayed there that night, and by Saturday the 11th of October, by twoe of the clock, made a perfect agreement ; which was, that he was to have 60^. paid him in hand, before he tooke them into the boate. For he would know what he should carrie, or he would not treat ; soe that the marchant was forced to tell him, himselfe knowing noe more than what the Coll. had said to him, of twoe friends, &c. Hee was to bee in readines upon an bowers warning; and the marchant to stay there, under pretence of fraughting his barke ; to see all things in readines against the Coll. and his twoe friends arrival. For the Coll. knew not when he should come, but privatly promised the merchant to defray all his charges and to give him fifty pounds, as aforesaid for his paines, which was afterwards accordingly done. But this 50'^. and the 60^^. paid to the boateman, the king himselfe, before he went away, tooke order for and his order was executed. All things agreed upon, the Coll. tooke leave of the marchant, about 3 of the clock, to give my Lord Willmot this account, and came to Mr. Hydes house aforesaid, betwixt eight and nine in the night; but my Lord, and the Colls, kinsman Captaine Gouuter, were remooved, to a tenants this] ^ . of my cozin Hydes one Mrs. Browne and one that had married [his] mj my cousin Counters sister. But the Coll. comming into [his] Cozin Hydes house as aforesaid^ found there his cousin Hyde, and Coll. Robert Philipps in his chamber goeing to bedd, whoe was very inquisitive to know how things stood. He gave in short, that all things were well and in a readines. Upon which Col. Philips replyed. Thou shalt be a saint in my Almanack for ever. Mr. Hyde was very earnest to have had the Coll. stay all night, and to goe, and give an account, the morrow morning ; butt he desired to be excused, for that he knew he was expected, and could not in honour but give his account without delay. Whereupon Coll. Philipps would me And we my cousin goe with [him]. [Soe they] tooke leave of [ Mr. ] Hyde 38 COAST OF SUSSEX, « came where for that night ; and [went to] my Lord Willmot was and had. me I earnestly expected [him]. After [he] had saluted him, and given him a full account of all proceedings, the noble Lord was infinitly pleased and satisfyed, and presently had in con- sultation, whoe should goe for the King ; and it was agseed that Coll, Philipps should, by reason that Coll. Gountar was much tyred out, and would neede rest for further employement, " Soe Coll. Philipps upon Sunday the 12^ of October, went to give the King an accoumpt, and to conduct him to the Lord Willmot, and to the said Coll. Gounter. In the in- terim, whylest they expected, upon Munday the IS''^ of October, the Lord Willmot, Coll. Gounter, and Captaine Thomas Gounter beeing altogether att dinner agreed to ride out upon the Downes. The ColL for a blinde went to Ham- bledon, hard by, to give his uster a visitt, and there borrowed a brace of greyhounds, for that his Cozin Gt)unter, and other gentlemen were upon the Downes, and had a minde to have a course att a haire, and ^twas possible, if they did not beat to farre and should stay out late, they might all come and bee merry with her that night ; however, shee should be sure of her doggs. If you do, you shall be heartely wellcome, was her answer. The Coll. brought the greyhounds, and beat with my Lord and his Cozin, untill his tyme sei^ved, and then left them, resolving to ride on, till he mett the King. And just as he came to Warneford townes end from old Winchester, faee mett Coll. Phelipps conducting the King. Being neere the houses, the Coll ridd by them, and tooke noe notice ; went to an Inne in the towne, called for some beare, and tooke a pipe, and stayed soe long, that they were a topp old Win- chester before he overtooke them. When he had overtaken them and done his dutie to his Ma'i^ he directed them the safest way, and he would ride before, to find out my L**. wee Wilmot. Which beeing done [they] all came togeth^. The King and my Lord had some private discourse together* we When [they] came to Brawde Halfe-penny, a little above BRIGHTON. 39 Hambledon, there the King spake to the Coll. Canst thou gett mee a lodging heereabouts. The Coll. told him, that his Cozin Hydes house aforesaid was taken up for him, and was very convenient, beeing neere and in the way ; But whether his 'Msfi^ thought it to publick a place, or for what other rea- son, I knowe not, Hee said, knowe you noe other ? Yeas may it please your Ma^^^ I know divers where for a night wee may be Wellcome, and heere is one who married my sister whose house stands privatly, and out of the way. Lett us goe thither, said the King. Whylest wee were consulting this afFaire, Captainc Thomas Counter the Coll* kinsman, and Swan, my Lord Willmots man, ridd scouting about Broade-halfe-penny aforesaid, the Coll. conducting the King, my Lord Willmot, and Coll. Robert Philipps, to his sisters house, a private way, and the backside of Hambledon, it beeing but halfe a myle from the place aforesaid. Alighting att the doore, the Coll. lead them in, the Lord Willmot following, the King putting CoUonel Robert Phillipps before him, Thou lookest the most like a gentleman now. Comming in the Coll* sister mett him ; Wee us [They] all saluted her. She brought [them] into a little parlour, where was a good fire. This was about candle light- ing. Wine, ale, and bisketts, were presently sett before us [them], with a very cheerfuU countenance, as though the Kings presence had had some secret influence upon her, whoe suspected nothing lesse than that a Ejng was present. we In an bowers space [they] went to supper, beeing all sett promiscuously att a round table: and having halfe supt, in comes the Colls, sisters husband, Mr. Thorn. Symones, whoe, as it plainly appeared, had beene in company that day. This is brave, said he ; A man can noe sooner be out of the way, but his house must be taken up with I knowe not whome ; and looking in the Colls, face, Is it you (said he) you are welcome; and as your friends, soe they are all. Passing round the table, and viewing all the company, he said. These are all Hyds now ; but peeping in the king'^s face, said of him, Ilcer^s a Roundhead ; and addressing his speech to 40 COAST OF SUSSEX. the Coll. said, I never knewe you keepe Roundheads com« pany before. To which the ColL replyed, Tis noe matter, he is my friend, and I will assure you, noe dangerous man. Att which words, he clapt himselfe downe in a chaire downe next the king, and saying, Brother Roundhead, for his sake thou art wellcome ; all the whyle beleeving the King to be so indeede, and making himselfe (whether for feare or in courtesie) to bee one too, as he could act it, the King all the whyle com* our plying with him to all [their] admirations. Now and then he would sweare, before he was aware ; for which the King reprooved him, O deare brother, that is a scape ; swear not, I beseech you. Nevertheles in that humor hee was hee plyed ' us [them] hard with strong waters and beare, the King not knowing well how to avoid it; but as some body or other when hee lookt asyde, would take it out of his hand. ** Supper being ended, it beeing tenn of the clock, the Coll. bc- ganne to bethinck himself*, that the King had ridd neerefourty miles that day, and was to undergoe a very hard journey thenext, and how to gett the King out of his company and to bedd he could hardly devise. Yet the Coll. whispered his kinsman in the eare, saying*, I wonder how thou shouldst judge spe right ; hee is a roundhead indeede, and if we could gett him to bedd, the house were your owne, and we could be merry. Hee readily submitted, and the Coll. presently (leaving the Lord Wilmot behinde) conducted the King and Col. Rob. Philips (who lay in the King^s chamber) to bedd. " The King slept well all night; and by breake of day, the Coll. putting up twoe neats tongues in his pocketts, which he thought they might neede by the way, they sett out, and began their journey. They were noe sooner come to Arundell hill, as they rode close by the castle, but the governour, Captaine Morley, mett them full butt, hunting. The Coll., the better * Interlined in a different hand. « Therefore thought it convenient to con* trive a way for him softly leaving the company that soe he might betake him- self to his lodging, w'ch he effected after this manner. Whispering his Bro' Mr. Syinonds said" BRIGHTON. 41 to avoid them, presently alighted ; and his company « " ^^ ^^h"§ (as was agreed before) did as he did* And soe hap- they were pily they escaped them. The King beeing told who downe." it was, replyed merrily, I did not like his starched mouchates. we we Soe [they] came to Howton where on horseback [they] made a stopp, att an alehouse, for some bread and drinck ; and there our us [their] ncats tongues stood [them] in very good steady and were heartily eaten. From thence being come to Bramber we [they] found the streetes full of soldiers, on both sides the r Con. houses; whoe unluckily and unknowne to [mee] were come thither the night before to guard ; but luckily (or rather by a very speciall Providence) were just then come from their guarde at Bramber-bridge, into the towne * for re- We fresh ment. [They] came upon them unawares and were seene^ we before they suspected any thing. My Lord Wilmot was [the CoU] ready to turne back, when I stept in and said : If we doe, wee are undone. Lett us goe on boldly, and wee shall not be [The CoU] the King suspected. He saith well, saith the king. I went before, hee followed, and soe passed through, without any hinderance. It was then betweene three and fower of the clock in the after- We noone. They went on ; but had not gone farre, but a new us us terror pursued them ; the same soldiers riding after [them] The CoU as fast as they could. Whereupon the king gave me a hem, I my me he slacked [his] pase, till they were come upp to [him] and by that tyme, the soldiers were come, whoe rudely passed by them (beeing in a narrow lane) soe that [they] could hardly our keepe their saddles for them ; but passed by without any further hurt ; being some SO or 40 in number. we ye CoU *' When they were come to Beeding, a little village where I had provided a treatment for the king (one Mr. BagshalFs house^) He was earnest, that his Ma'»e should stay there a whyle, till He ♦ Probably Steyning is here meant. — Ed, 42 COAST OF SUSSEX. had viewed tbecoast : Butmy Lord Willmot wouldby noe meanes for feare of those soldiers, but carried the king out of the rood ' I we he knew not whither, Soe they parted ; they where they we thought safest, I to Brightemston ; being agreed, they should send to me, when fixed any where, and ready. ^* Being come to the said Brightemston, he found all clear there ; and the Inne (the George) free from all strangers, att that tyme. Having taken the best roome in the house and !)espoken mv I myselfe [his] supper ; as [he] was entertaining [hisselfe] with a glass of wine; the king not finding accommodation elsewhere to his mind was come to the Inne ; then upp comes mine boast (one Smith by name) More guests saith he. He brought them into another roome ye Coll taking noe notice. It was not long but drawing towards the kings roome. He heard the kings voice, saying aloud to my Lord Wilmot; Here Mr. Barlow, I drinck to you. I knowe that name said r my mee he to his hoast then by him. I pray enquire and whether he were not a Major in the Kings Army. Which done he was found to bee the man whome I expected ; and presently in- vited as was likely to the fellowship of a glass of wine. From that He proceeded and made a motion to joyne coinpanee, and my because his chamber was largest that they would make use of we it. Which was accepted, and so they became one companie againe. •' At supper, the king was cheereful, not shewing the least signe of feare, or apprehension of any daunger ; neyther then, nor att any tyme during the whole course of this busines. Which is noe small wonder, considering, that the very thought of his ennemies, soe great, and soe many ; soe diligent, and soe much interested in his ruine ; was enough, as long as he was within their reach, and as it were, in the very middest of them to have daunted the stoutest courage in the world. As if God liad opened his eyes> as he did Elisha^s servant at his Masters request, and he had scene an heavenly hoast^ round about him BRIGHTON. 43 us to guard him : ivhich to [them] was invisible ; whoe therefore tliough much encouraged by his undauntedness, and the as surance of soe good and glorious a cause ; yet were not without them secret terrours within ourselves and thought every minute a day, a month till they should see his sacred person out of their reach. Supper ended the king stood his back agiunst the fyer, leaning over a chaire. Up comes mine hoast (upon some jealousie, I guess not any certain knowledge ;) but up comes him whoe called himselfe Gains runs to the king catcheth bis hand and kissing it, said. It shall not be said but I have kissed the best mans hand in England. He had waited at U8 table at Supper, where the boateman alsoe sate with them and were then present. Whether he had feare, or heard any thing that could give him any occasion of suspicion, I knowe not. In very deede, the king had a hard taske, soe to carrie him- self in all things, that he might be in nothing like himselfe : Majestic being soe naturall unto him, that even when hee said nothing, did nothing, his very lookes, (if a man observed) were enough to betray him. It was admirable to see the king (as though he had not been concerned in these words, which might have sounded in the eares of another man as the sentance of death) turned about in silence, without any alteration of countenance or taking notice of what had been said. About a quarter of an hour after the king went to his chamber, where [the Coll] followed him and craved his pardon with earnest protestation that he was innocent, soe altogether ignorant of the cause ; how this had hapned. Peace peace Colonell, said the king, the fellow knowes mee, and I him. Hee was one » (whether soe or not, I know not but soe the king thought att that tyme) that belonged to the back staires to my Father ; I hope he is an honest fellow, I ^* After this the Coll began to treat with the boateman (Tettersfield by name) asking him in what readines he was. He answered he could not of that night, because for more securitic he had brought his vessel into a breake. 41 COAST OF SUSSEX. and the tyde had forsaken it; soe that it was on ground. It is observable that all the whyle this busines had beene in agitation to this very tyme the wind had been cod- trarie. The king then opening the wenddowe tooke notice, that the wind was turned and told the master of the Shipp. Whereupon because of the wind and a cleere night, the coll offered 10^^ more to the man to gctt off that night. But that we could not bee. However they agreed, he should take in his we company that night But it was a great business that they U8 had in hand : and God would have them to knowe soe, both by the difficulties that offerd themselves, and by his help, he we we afforded to remoove them. When they thought they had agreed the boateman starts back and saith noe except the Coll would ensure the barke. Argue it they did with him, how unreasonable it was beeing so well paid, &c. but to no purpose soe that the Coll yeelded att last and 200'-^ was bis valuation which was agreed upon. But then as though he had beene resolved to frustrate all by unreasonable demands, he required my I [his] bond. Att which mooved with much indignation [the Coll] began to be as resolut as he; saying among other things. There were more boates to bee had, besydes his ; if he would I not another should and made as though [he] would go to another. In this contest the king happily interposed. Hee saith right (said his Matie) a Gentlemans word especially before wittnesses, is as good as his bond. At last, the mans stomach came downe, and carrie them he would, whatever became of it ; and before he would bee taken, hee would run his boat under the water. Soe it was agreed that about tooe in the morning they should be aboard. The boateman in the and I raeane tyme, went to provide for necessaries, [soe he] per- swaded the king to take some rest ; He did in his cloaths, and my L** Willmot with him, till towards twoe of the morning. Then [the coll] called them up shewing them how tlic tyme BRIGHTON. 45 my went by [his"| watch. Horses being ledd by the back way we towards the beach, [They] came to the boate, and found I my all readie. Soe [the Coll] tooke [his] leave craving his Maties pardon if any thing had happened through error, not want of will or loyaltie. How willingly I would have waited further my mee but for [his] family (being many) which would want [him] and [he] hoped his M^e would not, not doubting but in a very my little tyme he should bee where he would. [His] only request to his Ma^ic was that he would conceal his instruments ; wherein their preservation, was soe much concerned. His Ma^^^ pro- mised noebody should knowe. [The Coll] abided there keep- ing the horses in a readiness in case any thing unexpected had happened. ''At 8of the clock I saw them on sayle and it was the afternoone before they were out of sight. The wind (O Providence) held very good till the next morning, to ten of the clock brought them to a place of Normandie called Fackham* some three miles from Havre de Grace. 150ct.Wenseday. They were no sooner landed but the wind turned and a violent storme did arise in soe much that the boateman was forced to cutt his cable, lost his anchor to save his boate for which he required of mee 8'^ and had it. The boate was back againe at Chichester by Friday to take his fraught^ " I was not gone out of the towne of Brighthemston twoe houred but soldiers came thither to search for a tall black man 6 foot and 4 inches high.^ " Unto thee O God doe wee give thancks ; unto thee O God do we give ihancks ; for thy name is neere, thy wondrous workes declare,** " Great deliverance giveth he to his king, and showeth mercy to his annointed." MOTE BT TRANSCRIBER. The above narrative has clearly been written originally in the first person ; the words in brackets, thus [ ] , being interpolations in another hand» substi->^ tuting the third person, viz. " he '* or *< the Coll." for •* I." So the worthy Colonel is pleased to spell Fiscamp or F^amp* 4fi COAST OF SUSSEX. In Mr. Lee's History of Brighton, it is stated that the last house, in which the king stayed a short time before he came to the inn at Brighton^ was that of a Mr. Mansell of Oving- dean, about three miles from Brighton, to the left of Rotting- dean, a very small village, situated in a valley, and scarcely ever visited. It is to be observed that the colonel leaves them at this point, whilst he goes to Brighton to make preparations. The embarkation is said to have been at Shoreham, but was ' doubtless somewhere between that place and Brighton. A few trifling particulars of Tattersall and his wife are also related, which are rather creditable to them : and some little anecdotes of the sailors during Charles the Second's voyage*. He also sums up his account with the following paragraph, which has been copied by several others : — " Yet, whoever candidly investigates the subsequent conduct of that vicious prince (Charles II.), will make no very high estimate of the obligations of posterity to Captain Tattersall.'" — Certainly not, — IF — all the consequences of the measure depended on the per- sonal character of the immediate successor, for his vexatious and disappointing selfishness and shameless profligacy are totally indefensible. But, — if to have then been relieved from a state of anarchy, under opposing leaders and demagogues, so harassing, that it was said on the restoration '^ the whole population was running about wild with joy, and the only wonder was, where those persons were who had done all the mischief;^ — if to have lived from that period to our own day, under a government confessedly the best adapted for England, if not for every other country (the change from James II. to William III. was only an episode) a limited Monarchy, in which a king is armed with suflicient power for the govern- ment and protection of all his subjects, yet strongly restrained from abusing it,^-constituting in himself a steady bulwark against the encroachments of any faction, as well of aristocracy as of democracy; — if to be now living under the reign of a mild and temperate monarch, with a quiet line of succession, * As, of one approaching rather intruflively and smoking his pipe in the monarch's face, and, being reproved by some one, answering — *S A cat may look at a kingf" without the slightest idea of its applicability. BRIGHTON. 47 instead of suffering from some one of the hundred throes and convulsions of the terrible " beast with many heads ;''^ — if all this be allowed to be an advantage, — and they are comparatively few, and their opinions such as we have little value for, who will deny it, — then posterity was under actual and substantial obligations to Tattersall*. We do not mean of course to attribute any extraordinary degree of merit to the man himself, as interest had doubtless a share in Jiis willingness to assist ; yet we believe him to have been an honest character. Mr. Horsefield has, in his History of Lewes, brought forward (we really think in this one in- stance, on several accounts, with bad taste), a long account of the persecutions of the non-conformists, in which Tattersall is blamed for having, to a certain degree, acted officially as con- stable of Brighton, in 1670. We can only say we dislike all per- secution quite as much as Messrs. Horsefield or Lee, and have DO inclination to defend it, or even palliate it. Still there is one circumstance generally overlooked in the consideration of this period, viz. that the predominant party had been for a series of years quite as ill-treated by those they were then opposing : — (Vide EvelyrCs Memoirs^ ut ante. q. The Lyon, 3 10. The SwdOotoe, burthen 400 120 mariners, 20 gunners, 80 souldiers ; fur- tuns, niture, 1^ calivers, 15 bowes, SO anDOw- sheffes, 60 pyks, 60 bills, 80 corselets, 70 mariners. 11. The Dreadnought, burthen 140 mariners, 40 gunners, 200 souldiers ;>^r- 500 tuns, niture, 80 calivers, 20 bowes, 50 arrow- sheffes, 50 pyks, 40 corselets, 80 mariners. 12. The Swiftsure, ut ante. IS. The Autdopp, burthen 200 120 mariners, 20 gunners, 80 souldiers ; ar- tuns, tides of fimdture as above, to whidi no numbers are affixed. 14. The Jennett, the same. 15. The Aide, the same. 16. The BuB, burthen 400 70 mariners, 10 gunners, 80 souldiers ; Jur- tuns, niture, 75 calivers, 25 bowes, 50 arrow- sheffes, 60 pyks, 60 bills, 30 corselets, 70 murians. 17. The Foresight, ut ante. Id. The T^ger, ut ante. 19. The Faleon, burthen 160 60 marineis, 10 gunners, 50 souldiers ; fur- tuns, niture, 24 calivers, 10 bowes, 20 arrow- ■sheffes, 10 pyks, 20 bills, 15 corslets, 15 murians. 20. The Acates, -v 21. The Handmaide, I 22. The Arheraile, f **' "*^ 2a The BonavogeUe; J 24. The Barhe of BuUen, 160 90 mariners, 10 gunners, 40 souldiers ; fur- tuns, niture, 15 calivers, 15 bowes, 25 arrow- sheffes, 15 pyks, 20 bills, 10 corslets, 20 murians. 25. The George, ut ante. « Skinner describes 'caUver,' k Ft. calibre, as beinig 'tormentum bellicum majus.' " See Skinner in verbo. « The ' cordets* mentioned above, are well known to hare been a species of andent armour ; and < the muriant^ to have been casques or hehnets" • « Good-wish."— Italian, £ S 58 COAST OF SUSSEX. « MUSTER OF SUSSEX AT THE BEGINNING OF THE REIGN OF JAUES I. (Archaologiaf wd. xv.) Abkmen* Armed men. Pyontrt. DemiUances*. High-horses. 6200 3500 150 16 280 The number of ahle men thooghout £ngland was 295,000. The number charmed men is stated in the '^Archsologia" to be 1,400,000, which must be some rery absurd mistake. The regular army, in the reign of £Iizabeth, we have seen elsewhere stated at 111,000, including 40,000 Trained- bands.~£(f. In 1621, it appearing that the harvest the preceding year bad been un- favourable, inspection of the storehouses in Sussex is required, to ascertain what oould be spared for other parts of the kingdom. 'M8 Oct. 1644, an ordinance for a weekly assessment for £. s. d. the relief of Ireland, Sussex . . 104 3 4 '' 14 Feb. do., monthly assessment to discharge expense of new modelling the armies . . * 3927 15 6 ''Do. do. for support of the Scots army . 912 II 8 BarreU MSS. OLIVER CR0&IWELL*S ASSESSMENT FOR SUSSEX. £ f. d, " From 25 Dec. 1647, to 25 March, 1648 7,134 15 5 25 Mardi, 16489 to 29 Sep. 1648 13,952 13 01^^ g^^ ^ ^ Next half year . . 13,952 13 J ' 25 March, 1649, to 29 Sep. 1649 18,771 4 6 Next half year . 14,207 14 6 18,771 4 6 18. I 771 4 6 ) Irn 4 4 equal to about 2,. 6rf. in the pound land tax. 37,542 9 " N. B. This is the account of William Alcock, receiver general of the monthly assessments for the county of Sussex, these sums came to his hands ; it is possible there might be some deficiencies, and he observes that the salaries of the hig^ collectors were deducted, and never came to his hands. So probably part of the year 1649 was equal almost to three shillings in the ponndJ'—Burreil MSS. Sir W, B. has overboked the monthly assessment specified above, which is at a much higher rate, nearly 60,000/. per annum.— £ the Duke and Duchess of Manchester, Lord and Lady Parker, Lady Dartrey, Lady TraflRnrd and dau^^ter, and the Baron and Baroness Nolken, are here. The beOs were set a ringing for the arrival of Lord and Lady Fitzwilliam, who came in last night. Our master of the ceremonies' hall is fixed lor Friday next, which is expected to be uncommonly oowded." 1784.. Equestrian ^ea^.—'^ Lewes, August 2.— At seven o'clock on Monday morning last, the Prince of Wales mounted his horse at Brighthelmstone, and rode to and from London that day. His Royal Highness went by the way of Cudkfidd, and was only ten hours on the road, being four and a half going, and five and a half returning." 1786. Extrpct of a Letter firom Lewes, Sept. 12. — '* The violence of the wind on Tuesday last occasioned the highest tide that has been known on this coast for a great number of years. At Brighthdmstone, the fishermen were put to the greatest difficulty in saving their boats, to effbct which, many were under the necessity of hauling them up into the town, and others of lashing them to the rafling on the bank; some few, however, that could not be secured, were dashed to pieces : had the storm happened in the night*time, the whole must have shared the same fate." Extract of a Letter from Brighthelmstone, dated September S6.--'' A gentleman a few days ago was bathing a little below the machines, and bdng very calm, he imprudently ventured further into the sea than what is customary. He had not be^ long diverting himself in the water, before he heard a noise, and discovered the fins of a fish above the surface of the water, which he soon perceived approach him very fast. Alarmed at this, he hastened out of the water, and had scarcely reached the shore, when a large tiger shark plunged after him with that violence, that it forced itself entirely out of the water on dry land. The shark, thus out of its element, had no power of retreating; and die gentleman who provi- dentially escaped, recovering from his ftif^t, collected a number of people, who with hatchets attacked this ferocious creature and killed it On open- ing its stomach, the entire head of a man was found in it, no otherwise altered than being very soft and pappy, and the flesh and scalp entirely se- parating from the bone on touching it. The stomach was half an inch thick, and the shark was twelve feet in loigth from its head to its tail*." Brighthelmstone, Sept, S.— '^ At a general meeting of the subscribers to the rooms, held at the Castle this day, agreeably to the public notice, it was dien unanimously resolved, that all persons who have their admission into * N.B. To prevent unnecessary alarm, we may as well specify^ that nothing of the kind has been heard of sinc^. BRIGHTON. 63 the rooma during the season, that every non-subscriber do pay as under: — Monday and Wednesday, the ladies 3#. 61^.9 the gentlemen 4t. 6d, each. Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, one shilling for every non- subscriber. N.B. Children under twelve years of age are not understood to be induded in this last regulation. By order of the subscribers of the rooms— WUiLiAx Wadb, Master of the Ceremonies." 1786. *^ The design of erecting a new theatre at Brighton is dropped ; and if (he manager of the present theatre endeavours to be a little more of the fox, and not so much of the bear, he may find it hereafter to his advantage." 1788. Brighton Tkeaire.—^^ The IhII for licensing anew the theatre there was read a third time, committed, and ordered to be carried up to the Lords." Lewes, Dec. 92,^** Last Monday, we are told, the sand at Brig^thdmstone, at neap-tide, was covered with a most beautiful sheet of ioe^ and such aa would have afforded excellent diversion to skaiters, had there been any there to have enjoyed it; otherwise, we think, they would have embraced the opportunity of exhibiting in a scene so pleasing and novel as must have appeared, that of skaiting on the skirts of the ocean." 1789. The Prince's Birth-^y^^'* The bell and supper were given at the Castle tavern by the Dukes of York and Clarence, and the cards of invitation ex- tending to Lewes, as well as the immediate neighbouriiood, the assembly was numerous and highly gented. *' A very military and striking procession was presented by the javelin men, headed by Sir Ferdinando Pool^ the sheriff. This order^ which smadcs so truly of feudal times, consists of the chief tradesmen of Lewes, from whence they proceeded to pay their respects to the princfe. Their uniform is a superfine blue coat, buff waistcoat, and buckskin breeches^ with other appendages, the effect of which was striking. Their swords were sustained by blue bdts over the shoulder with crested plates. Their horses had bhie and buff girths and breast-plates, and the head-dresses of the horses were also of corresponding decoration. The trumpeters, which preceded the procession, were dressed at the expense of Sir F. Poole; their coats were buf^ with blue collars and cuffs, and bhie waistcoats: they had silk banners to their trumpets, with heraldic bearings. The or- dering of this procesdon depended in a considerable degree on Colond Pelham; and it was observable that bhie and buff cockades were assumed by an the country. Upwards of 500 people dined at tiie Casde ; and an ox was roasted and distributed to the populace with plenteous supplies df strong beer. A very brilliant firework was played off, and a generd illu- minatbn exhibited.— Brighton never was so joyous or gay before." '' Last Thursday night, a large portion of what is called the bank, between the sea and the Gun Inn, Brighton, suddenly gave way, and fell on the beach, which has occadoned the road there to be fenced ofi^ to prevent ac« ddents, until it can be repaired."— Da^e lost. 64. (OAST OF SUSSEX. 1792. September 13.—'' We are still occupied here, as no doubt every where else^ with the derelopement of French affiiirs. The influx of emigrants bc^ns to lessen, partly because the migority of the clergy are already come oyer, and because at Dieppe they have put a stop to our packets receiving them, they themselves fitting out their own vessds for the purpose. The sub- scription for the relief of the priests filled very fast, and was disposed of, by the committee appointed for that purpose, in relieving thdr present necessities and providing them the means of pursuing their way up to the capital" September 20.—'' This morning one of the packets landed five persons of distinction, one of whom was the Archbishop of Aix -, the others were per- sons of condition, but cannot leam their names. They hired the packet for themselves only. " This day another packet brought in twenty-six emigrants ; and, at ten o'clock this morning, came over, in an open boat. Count Bridges, who was one of the household to the King of France, and in confinement with him, but found means to escape ; after which he was concealed, till an oppor- tunity offered to convey him to this place, for which he paid a large sum. " By order of the Duke of York, an ox is this day roasted whole ;— while I write, it is diatributing among the populace, together with ten barrels of strong beer, which will probably cause some broken pates ere ni^t." Monday,--** This morning, about twelve o'clock, the Duchess of York set out for town. At her departure, great crowds collected before the Pavilion, collected by curiosity to behold ; and her highness's behaviour was such as impressed them strongly with the sense of her afiability and condescen- sion. Notwithstanding the unfavourable state of the weather, the royal trio rode out every day, attended by several of the nobility and gentry.** August 29.—" The Marchioness de Beaule is arrived at this place, in an open boat, for which she paid two hundred guineas at Dieppe. What adds to the distressing situation of this lady, she was under the necessity of appearing in the uniform of a sailor, and as such assisted the men on board during the whole passage, not only to disguise herself, but in order to bring with her undiscovered a favourite female, whom it is confidently said, she conveyed on board in a trunk, in which holes were bored to give her air. " The marchioness was received, on coming on shore, by his highness the Prince of Wales, with Mrs. Fitzherbert and Miss Isabella Pigot The prince, with his usual afikbility, escorted the fair fugitive to Earl Clermont's, where tea was provided for the prince and twenty of his friends." * • • * « " During the whole time, she was obliged to appear in male and mean attire. 8he once offered herself to a collier to work her passage as a sailor, but was refiised; at length, however, urged by despair, and dlsdodng her real situation to the captain of one of the packets, he, with much humanity, contrived to bring her ofi^, by concealing her under a coil of cable upon the deck (where she was, incredible as it may seem, obliged to lie for four- BaiGHTON. 65 teen houn)^ and was landed safe here yesterday, exhansted with the fatigae and terron she had undergone*. " The prince, with that humanity and gallantry that so invariahly distin- guish him, has paid every attention to this amiahle stranger. She this day rode out with Mrs. Fitzherhert. '^ Another lady, whose name we have not learned, arrived also yesterday in an open hoat, choosing rather to risk almost certain destruction by the sea (for it blew a hurricane all day) than to be exposed to the insults and cruelties of the worse than savages she has left behind." 1792. " The emigrants still continue flocking over as fast as they can getaway ; but great apprehensions are entertained by them for numbers left behind ; who unablei, though willing to escape from their enemies, and the time limited by tlie assembly for their departure being expired, it is expected they will fall victims to the savage and unrelenting fury of their persecutors." *' Augu 25.— This morning their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of York took an airing on foot, and spent the greater part of the day in viewing the new buildings and the cricket ground. In the evening, dieir royal highnesses honoured the theatre with their presence." ^* Lewes i Oct, 22.— Last Wednesday morning were landed at Black Rock near Shoreham, from the Prince of Wales Packet, Captain Burton, thirty- seven nuns. They were all from one convent, and most of them elderly ladies* None younger than forty. They were habited as nuns, and are all going to Brussels, where a convent is prepared for them. ** The packet lay some time off Brighton with a view to land them there, but the roughness of the sea prevented it; and it was no sooner known that they were to land at or near Shoreham, than almost every carriage in Brighton repaired thither to be present at their debarkation, and to assist in conveying them to Brighton, where every accommodation and every attention was shown to them. They had plenty of money. Their passage was not favourable, having been two days at sea." 1793. ** Brighthelmsione Camp.— The Duke of Clarence, it is said, wishes much to have the royal Surrey raiment of militia. His royal highness is so partial to them, that he has made them a present of a regimental colours, that is to cost 120 guineas— it is now embroidering." We insert the following, both because it exhibits much good sense and feeling, and also to express our congratulation on the approaching extinction, great mitigation, or commuta- tion, — with the concurrence, we feel assured, of our benevolent monarch,— of the terrible and too Draconic code of military and naval punishment, which has no antiquity to plead in its * We rather think this refers to another lady, but something is here lost. — Eo. F 66 COAST OF SUSSEX. behalf, and has been often, as we both read and know, almost as painful to the feelings of the officers to inflict, as the men to su£Per. This is an unmixed question, on which two opinions can scarcely exist ; it is, indeed, a blessed '^ reform.^ " Camp, near Brighton, Oct 4.->-Latelast night orders were issued by the Duke of Richmond, that the sentence of the court-martial should not be executed on the soldier of the North Devon, till nine this morning ; this delay was owing to the desire of the duke, to deliberate on a petition pre- sented to him at the request of the soldiers, on bdialf of their unfortunate comrade; it was signed by the officers and non-commissioned officers of the corps. The petition was laid before the duke by their migor, Sir Thomas Acldand, who was indefatigable in his endeayours to give it effect *' At nine this morning the piquets of the whole line, and the North Devon regiment, formed a square six deep. The Duke of Richmond was present; and after the court-martial had been read, his grace addressed the soldiers, and read to them the petition which he had received from their miyor. He then said, that the answer he meant to give to the petition, he would read to them. He began by making several judicious reflections on the bad effects of want of subordination in soldiers ; reprobated, in strong terms, the summary manner in which, in many instances, the soldiers in camp had inflicted punishments on those who they thought had offended them. 'But,' added his grace, 'if it were possible to aggravate such unmilitary proceedings, it must be in the present instance, where an un- fortunate—unprotected female was the object of vengeance. It was dis- graceful both to their characters as soldiers, and as men. It had been alleged, that this wretched woman was a prostitute; but recollect, soldiers, whether the dime for which you punished her, you had not been die means of leading her into.' Having insisted on this, in a style that affbcted the feding of the soldiers in a very sensible manner, and after paying the r^ment some handsome compliments on their good behaviour last war, &c. he added, c that though the prisoner' was no more guilty that day, than several soldiers of every other r^ment in the line, yet it was not to be understood that for that reason, he was to escape punishment, &c' After having shown this in a strong point of view, and informed the soldiers of their duty to their officers, he then came to the subject of the petition itself, which, he said, 'did honour to the sensibili^ of the men who felt so severely for the credit of the regiment, in having one of their comrades tried by a line court-martial, and in their promises of avoiding every cause of censure from hence forward. He was happy in saying, that a petition drawn up in so soldier-like, manly, and modest a style, met his warmest approbation, and gave him an opportunity of indulging his own feelings, ever averse to punishment, by remitting the whole sentence of the oourt-martiaL' " The duke's speech made a sensible impression not only on the minds of those to whom it was immediately addressed, but on the mixed crowd of soldiers of the other regiments who were present. " As soon as the piquets were ordered away. Sir Thomas Acldand seized the moment of paying the duke an elegant compliment, by requesting his pennisdon to have his grace's speech printed, at the expense of the North 1 BRIGHTON. 67 Bevon regiment. The duke teemed highly Mndble of the compliment, nid, that it Bhoiild to-monow be copied into the different (Hrderly books, but that he did not wish it to be printed." "Brighton Campy Aug. 15.— On Monday, at three in the morning, we stmdL our tents on Ashdown Forest, marched at five, and at half past eleven reached Chdy Common. Tuesday morning struck our tents at three, marched at four, and arrived on the hills over Brighton at twelve ; the fine of baggage, part of the heavy artillery, and corps of artificers, marched by Lewes, sixteen miles; the army took another route over the South Downs, two miles shorter. ** The novdty of seeing near 7000 men, with their park of artillery, bat- talion guns, &c in one line of march, drew out the whole town of Brighton. Innumerable carriages of every description, and crowds of people of the first fashion covered all the hills, while the deep azure of the sea, on whose bosom rode a number of ships in full sail, the glittering of the arms on shore, and the beauty of the morning, added to the splendour of the scene, and filled the mind of every spectator with delight. As the columns moved down the hill, the Prince of Wales met them ; the troops marched by in open ranks, the officers saluting— and, though the men were loaded with their tent-poles, camp-kettles, knapsacks, &c and were kept marching one hour, in slow time, they showed the utmost steadiness, notwithstanding their fatigue. By two o'clock the camp was almost completely formed; the left is dose to the town of Brighton, and stretches in a direct line along the ooaat This has a fine appearance to the eye, and to preserve this e£fect the comfort of two regiments is destroyed, as the North Devon and East MiddLesex are encamped on a newly ploughed field, fiill of sharp flint stones. Should any wet come> they will be in a deplorable situation ; yet almost immediately behind these two r^;iments they might have pitched their tents on the finest turf in England; but this would not please the eye so welL The sea is dose in front of the quarter-guard tents. The prince inserts in orders that no compliment is to be paid to him but as a colond in the army." SHAM FIGHT. ''The whole plan (if pkn it may be called) was, an enemy attacking Brighton and the camp. The enemy consisted of eight raiments of in-^ fantry, with their battidion guns, under General Sir Wm. Howe ; the others were four battalions of infantry, the light horse, and mounted artillery, who defended the country. The last general field-day, Brighton was de- nominated Dunkirk, and of course taken by the British, but names are nothing; yesterday it was not known which were the French. In this action none were Icilled or wounded ; but one officer of tiie East Middlesex was made a prisoner, after a stout resistance, by his own major, his chief oflfenoe sitting on a drum, during the inactivity that generally prevails for hoars in the field; the officer was put under arrest, but was, it is said, this day Uberated. As the soldiers generally behaved well yesterday, this day was a hoUday." 1794. "BrightathAug. 17.— The public breakfast on Wednesday was attended by near 200 of the fashionable company of the preceding evening, and the f2 68 COA&T OF SUSSEX. fineness of the moniing» together with the incresse of miuic, for Col. Cart- wright had politdy ordered the Prince of Wales's band to play alternately with the Dorset band, which had a most enchanting effect, and really makes this delightful shade the most desirable mid-day lounge about Brighton." '^ The Prince of Wales's birth-day was celebrated in a style entirely new at this place ; the Promenade Grove, which has the honour of being under his royal highness's immediate protection, was brilliantly illuminated, and elegantly decorated with transparendes^ in allusion to the day. and opened in the manner of VauxhalL So happy were the visitors and inhabitanta of this very fashionable watering-place and its vicinity to join in the general mirth, that about nine o'clock upwards of 1200 people had assembled at these charming gardens, a number far exceeding any thing ever seen here; the coloured lamps were tastefully arranged around the saloon and other buildings. The principal transparencies were, the initials of G. P. W. wrote in coloured flowers, crowned with a wreath of laurel, and encircled with the British oak; the motto, ' Brighton's Support' The band of music consisted of a choice selection from the different bands at the camps. In the course of the evening Mr. J. Mahon sung two songs with great execution and taste; the scene was entirely new, and though the company was so numerous,, nothing could exceed the perfect good humour and good order that the whole concluded with." '' Brighton, July 22.— -It is reported that the six regiments encamped here will remove for a few days to Seaford. When the harvest is got in, ei^t more regiments are expected to join them, which, added to the park of artillery, and the Prinee of Wales's r^ment, will form an encampment of 15,000 meUj nearly double the number that were here last summer." "Crawford exhibited a very beautiful illumination, yesterday evening, over the portico of his library, in consequence of the arrival of his Royal Highness the Duke of CLurence. '" ** The Prince of Wales and his brother sre expected this evening at the theatre, to see the performances of Quick in the Commissary and Miser. As this will be the first time his Royal Highness has had an opportunity of visiting this place of amusement, there is no doubt but what the ex- ertions of Quick, united with those of Townshend, Rock, Powell, and the £dwins, will cause a frequent repetition of his visit." 1796. *' Brighton, Aug. 1 0.— The Duke and Duchess of Marlborough, with their household, leave this place on the 17th inst Six weeks is generally the allotted time for their graces residence her^ but this summer they have overstopped their stay. The Duke of Marlborough's liberality affords a good and generous lesson to the other nobility who occasionally reside here; for the victuals and milk (the latter of which is a very scarce article in this town), that is left among the household, is distributed every morning, in parceb, to the poor of the place; a good day's provision for several of the fishermen's wives and children." The late Duke of Marlborough, with his family, was, during many years, a regular, and also a munificent, visitor of Brighton, BRIGHTON* 69 attended by his chaplain, Mr. Hoyle, a gentleman whose elegant and sterling poetical attainments are still at the ser- vice of the public. As regards the particular mode of charity specified, might it not be worthy the attention of many of the nobility who now visit Brighton ? and in London it is still more needed. Without any mean restriction or surveillance of domestics^ great things might be done in the aggregate by this judicious and benevolent foresight; and if any poor family can be supplied with a good meal from even the superfluity of the more abounding, the practice must excite pleasurable feelings, or the neglect self-condemnation. Perhaps, if incon- venient to individuals, there are associations in the town who would manage such a distribution, and a general depository might be established for the reception of the articles to be sent Do not smile, reader : or, if you do, we have seen too many cases of misery to regard it. We have merely done what is veiy easy, thrown out the hint ; if worthy of notice^ it may be considered and improved by others. — Ed. '< Mr. Wade's benefit baO^ on Friday last, they say^ netted him a dear 500/.— a convincing proof that we must teem with fashion, taste, and spirit. '' Hollingbury Hill (or what the people heredenominate Hollingbury Castle) is finely adapted for a grand review ; here are evident remains of an ancient encampment; its figure also still remains complete, being a very extensive circle, which contains a number of tumuli, one of whidi has been opened to a considerable depth *." '' The Duke of Clarence's birthday was announced here by ringing of bells, Sec At ten o'clock, the Lanark and Dumbarton fencibles, with the flying artillery and the Monmouth r^ment of militia, marched to the hill near Palmer, where they were joined by the Northampton regiment of militia, stationed at Lewes. The following new manoeuvres were introduced under the command of Major-General Graham. The regiments marched in line, and retreated by battalions through each other. The front bat- talion retreated from the right or left of companies by files, and the rear battalion opened two or three files, opposite the heads of the columns, to let them through. After marching about one hundred yards,, the retreat- ing battalion formed: the front battalion then retreated the same way, never going off with unloaded arms. The battalion next changed their front by companies, firing twice as they came up. They then practised * This description must be our excuse for not having seen this place, or the more famed " Devil's Dyke."_£artments more tastefully contrived and executed can scarcely be imagined. In the western part of the structure is a new entrance hall, a magnificent stair- case, and another of an inferior description; a biUiard-room, with an Italian stove, &c , forming, on the whole, an unparalleled display of modern elegance, neatness, grandeur, and bimplicity, most happily combined." " Sept. 18. — The Archbishop of Canterbury, Judge Graham, and many others of the first rank and consequence, attended divine service at the Chapel Royal, on Sunday ; at which place the Bishop of St Asaph preaches a charity sermon on Sunday next, for the benefit of the School of Industry." ** A piece of ground for building, nearly opposite the west front of Marlborough House, was purchased by a lady of this place, a few days ago, at sixteen guineas a fbot It is considered here as remarkably cheap; and should the lady repent of her bargain, it is supposed that there are many who would gladly take it off her hands at an advanced price." " Oct. 10.— The Archbishop of Canterbury preached a sermon this morning at the Chapel Royal, from the sixth and seventh verses of the fourth Psalm :•— ^ Tliere be many that say, who will show us any good ? J^ord, lift thou up the light of thy countenance upon us. Thou hast put gladness in my heart, more than in the time that their com and ^heir wine increased.' The chapel was extremely crowded. The Bishop of St Asaph, Judge Graham, and many of the most distinguished of the nobility, at- tended divine service. Captain Bloomfield was in the Prince's pew." 1803. " At noon, yesterday, the corps of Sea Fencibles were drawn up on the battery to disdiarge sixteen rounds of forty-two pound shots, at a small boat, moored about half a league from the shore, with the Frendi jack at 74 COAST OF SUSSEX. the mast head. The fintsbot was apparently within a yard of the olgect; the second was somewhat closer; the third raked it fore and aft» carrying away its upper streaky and bringing its broadside to face the battery, when the fourth ^ot literally cut it asunder, and sent the diijointed bark to the bottom. Such is the singular proficiency of this corps in their diacipfine^ and such will be the fate of the Corsican's flat bottoms, should they have the temerity to appear within gun-shot in this quarter. Sir Edmund Nagle, Captain Sproule, and several military officers, were on the fort, while groups of British belles were drawn up as spectatora on the difi^ who loudly applauded the successful practice of the day, whidi (their ol^ect of attack having so satisfactorily disappeared) terminated on the fourth round, excepting that one gun was afterwards discharged, properly elevated, to ascertain how far, in case of necessity, it would throw a shot, and whidi, moderately speaking, struck not the water within the distance of a league.* '* In consequence of the prediction of the French prophet, now some- tiling more than two centuries ago, but which, within this last week, has been the current topic of tea-table conversation, that the tide in the British channel would rise at least thirty feet perpendicularly above the levd it ever reached before, on the twenty-fourth or twenty-fifth of February, 1803, several antiquated spinsters, and superannuated old bachdors!, with a numerous retinue of lap-dogs and grimalkin companions, have actually re- moved from this place to Cuckfidd, kst the prognostic should be verified, and the dreadfUl phenomenon overwhelm the town. They are expected to return to this place to-morrow, unless a recollection of the dteration whidi has been made in the style, since the prophecy was uttered, should recur to them, when, in all probability, they may deem it necessary to avdd the coast at least deven days longer than they had first cdculated as necessary.* ORIGIN OF BRIGHTON. *' About sixty years ago, Brighton consisted of a few thatched fidier- men's huts, a considerable number of which were in ruins. A Sussex farmer, now living, who at that time had never seen the sea, remembers his journey thither; when his breakfast only came to threepence; an ex- cellent dinner of beef-steaks for six pence; and the remainder of the shilling went to pay for his horse, and the ostler : to use his own expresdon, they were so unaccustomed to the sight of a stranger, thai they made, Sir, as great a to^do with me, as if I had been the King's son. The Old Ship was then newly opened by Hicks ; wheat was only four pounds ten shillings a load, and butter sold for four pence a pound. Lewes Races had been esta- blished about deven years. The first patron of Brighton was Dr. Russdl^ who then redded at Mailing, near Lewes ; and one of the first patients whom he sent to bathe, was the wife of the late Rev. Wm. Clarke, Red- dentiary of Chichester, and Rector of Buxted. Mr. Clarke had the best house in Brighton, at the rate of five shillings per week !" « " The dtuation of Brighton admits of what Brown termed great Capa- bility: trees with little trouble might be planted, and would certainly thrive, when sheltered by the adjoining buildings, from the sea winds. The improvements which his Royd Highness has made, and is still pnvecting, and the degant house which Mr. Forden, an architect of uncommon meant. BRIGHTON. 75 is nifling for Mrs. Fitzherbert, will^ I trusty cheek the listless torpor and selfish apathy which has too long prevailed at Brighton, will reflect a certain portion of taste and liberality on the sordid Native* of this lawless waste, and make them more wcnrthy of the illustrious Patron, who> from a paltry village of fishermen, has formed one of the most delightful and fashionable Bathing Places that our coast presaits, and which in time, we trust, will vie, as far as the difference of dimate may admit, with the cdehrated jBo^ of the Romans." BRIGHTON OUM-BOAT8. '< Dec. 14.— The Brighton fleet, consisting of forty strong boats, each mounting an eighteen pound carronade, are in a very forward state, and in a few days will be fully equipped to face the enemy, should he shew him- self in tl^ quarter. Loyal unanimity is every where the order of the day ; and the most brilliant success, should their courage ever be put to the proof, will, no doubt/attend the united efforts of the hardy volunteers of the coast." ALARUM. *' Oct. 2.-- The Prince of Wales, at the conclusion of the Concert at the Pavilion, some time after midnight, on Thursday last, addressing himself to Colonel Leigh, expressed an anxious desire to know in how short a time his regiment of dragoons could be under arms, and ready to face the enemy, should necessity require their exertions in the night. The Colonel immediately proposed, as the best method of satisfying his Royal Highness, instantly to ride to, and order an alarm to be sounded at the barracks, and afterwards return and give his Royal Highness a correct account of the conduct of his troops. This measure being approved by the Prince, the Colonel's horse was soon brought to the door, and he set ofi^with all possible speed to see it carried into effect. On reaching the advanced guard at the entrance of the barracks, the Cdonel commanded a black trumpeter on duty to sound to arms. The man, in obedience to the mandate, raised the trumpet to his lips ; but the surprise of the moment so greatly overpowered him, that he wanted breath to put it in execution. An English trumpeter, who overheard the order as he lay in bed, in an instant arose, dashed open the window of his room, and without w^ting for further advic^ put the bugle to his mouth, gave the proper signal, and the troops in every part were in an instant in motion. The greater part of the soldiers had been in bed many hours, the whole of them were properly accoutred, and on their horses, together with the flying artillery, in readiness to depart, in time sufficient to have reached Brighton within 15 minutes after the bugle gave the alarm. The barracks are situated something better than a mile and a half to the north of the town." €t jiprii 24.— The example which the Nobility set here to the lower order of people, by attending divine worship on a Sunday, is productive of the most salutary effect; the respective churches and chapels, morning and afternoon, are literally crowded, and the most decorous solemnity prevails throughout the town." " A letter from Brighton contains the followiug advice to Epicures: 76 COAST OF SUSSEX. ' We have John Dories^ turbots, soles, mullets, and red gurnets, jumping alive out of the sea; but as price is the trae test of flayour, the Gourmands are assured that they are much dearer here than at Billingsgate. The South Down mutton is here in perfection, and floats about the dish in its own gravy upon the first cut How it contrives to have either flesh or gravy is not for such a sheepish understanding as mine to devdope, for the Downs on which it feeds are as bald as an old billiard doth ! ' " ** A twenty-four pounder is shortly to be placed on the summit of the White-hawk hill, dose to the signal house, to report, should it be necessary, a general summons to arms." THE OFFICER AND POOR PUSS. " Aug. 23.— The Race^stand, it appesrs, was set on fire through the carelessness of the family who had been permitted to occupy it The con- flagration, notwithstanding it happened about mid-day, was distinctly ob- servable at a distance of upwards of thirty ndles. Many people from various parts of the county, some on horseback, some on foot, entered the town during the succeeding night and day, to make enquiries respecting it, as apprehensions prevailed that the enemy had made a descent on that part of the coast, and was evindng his love to the natives by setting fire to thdr property.— It is somewhat singular, that as an officer of the Prince's r^- ment, attracted to the spot by the volumes of flame and smoke which ascended to tiie douds, was reviewing the terrific encroachments of tiie devouring dement, a cat, dreadfully singed and terrified, sprung through the blaze, and alighted on his shoulders. The officer, somewhat surprised, at first endeavoured to shake her ofi^; but poor puss, firmly fixing her daws in his jacket, was not so easOy to be got rid of. The officer, percdving her reluctance to quit him, at length humandy determined, that as she had, in the moment of danger and affright, flown to him for protection, she should accompany him to the barracks. They accordingly descended the Downs together, and puss, well taken care of by her new master, afibrds much merriment to his friends, as he relates the particulars of the circum- stances which first introduced them to each otiier." '* One of the largest fishing boats here, with nine passengers, the regular packets bdng either laid up for tiie winter, or on the other side of the water, sailed for Dieppe at 3 o'dock P. M. to-day." '* One of tiie fishing-boats, the first of this place which has been converted into a gun -boat, was furnished this morning with an eighteen-pound car- ronade by the Charlotte armed schooner, lying to off the town, and dght rounds, with shot, were presentiy after discharged, to ascertain if the boat could bear the shock of the explosion, which was doubted by many. The boat, we are happy to state, fully answers the purpose for which it is designed ; the shock of the explosion affected it not in the most trifiing degree; and it is now tiie general opinion that a forty-two pound carronade^ in lieu of an eighteen, might be used in one of tiiem with the greatest advantage and success. Sir Edmund Nagle, Capt Sproule, Lieutenant Harvey, and a Lady, whose name we could not learn, &c. &c. were in the boat ; the first gun from which was fired within a quarter of a lesgue of the shore, having been previously levelled at one of the buoys, which was floating about a mile to the west, the wind Mowing briskly from the east. BRIGHTON. 77 when the hall dropped apparently within a few yards of the olrject The fiiQowin^ aeven rounds were discharged at a greater distance in the offing. The ClifT parades were thronged with spectators ; and the courage of the fair lady, who so hravely trusted herself in the hoat, was the general theme of admiration. Fifty hoats of this place, it is said, have heen found fully competent for the uses of goyemment, the greater part of which, in a short time, win haye undergone the necessary alteration, which is simple and eflectiye, and will present no trifling additional force for the protection and defence of the coast." This lady was really a heroine. She would have made a suitable bride for " Sir Huon of Bourdeaux/* or any noble- minded crusader or paladin of the olden time. '' Oyer the dark blue waters. Oyer the wide, wide sea. Fairest of Araby's daughters. Say, wilt thou sail with me ? " Were there no hounds to the water. No shore to the wide, wide sea. Still fearless would Araby's daughter. Sail on through life with thee ! " 1804. ** The Nobility and Gentry of the county of Sussex haye set a noble example, worthy the imitation of eyery other county in the three kingdoms, by the establishment of the Royal Sussex Jennerian Society, for the exter- mination of the Small Pox, under the immediate patronage of the Prince of Wales. Seyenteen stations are already appointed at the principal towns in the county. In our opinion, nothing short of such institutions becoming general, will be able to effect that grand object, the extermination of the Small Pox." A TOLERABLE TVS. ** Oct. 25.— As a gentleman yesterday was walking carelessly on the beach on the west side of one of the groins, his foot slipped, and he unfortunately fell oyer, a depth of some feet, into the sea. Happily, how- eyer, the water, which was not yery deep, prevented his receiying any injury from the hard stones at the bottom j sensible of which, he remarked, on rdeasing himself from the briny dement, that ihepickie had certainly preserved him." ^ llany of the faahionables from this place attended the last subscription concert of the season, under the patronage of his Grace of Richmond, at Chidiester, on Thursday last These concerts haye a odebrity ratified by die test of years; and we haye no scruple in saying, that they are much m^enox to any regular establishment of a similar nature out of London ; and are more numerously and elegantly frequented. Lady Louisa Lennox, Miss Le Clerc, Colonel Lynn, and upwards of four hundred persons, were present" ** June 4.— This being the birth-day of our soyereign, the whole of the military of this district, regulars as wdl as militia, haye been assembled on NewmarkeUhill, in honour of the occasion, consisting of about li,000 78 COAST OF SUSSEX. men ; where, after firing a feu dejoie, they were reviewed hy General Sir TTilliam Pulteney. A royal salute, at mid-day, was also fired from the fort ; and a ball for this evening is annomiced for the Castle. The Downs which overtop this place> during the whole of the day have presented a pleasing picture of bustle and hilarity, such as is seldom witnessed here, excepting at the time of the races; coaches, chariots, landaus, landaulets, sociables, carrides, buggies, whiskies, &c. and pedestrians and equestrians beyond all calculation, have been actively employed since eight o'clock this morning till the present time, six o'clock P. M.— The Steyne last night displayed an assemblage of pedestrians, numerous, elegant, and select. The Sussex band for some hours enUvened the cheerful throng by a skilful performance of ■ome of their most favourite pieces. Generals Lennox and Dalrymple, and, of recent arrival. General Churchill, were on the parade. Many fascinating groups of beautiful belles also graced the walk. Towards sun-set a sight novel, and not uninteresting, attracted the fashionables collectively from the Steyne to the margin of the diff and the water's edge. Several immense Porpoises, the largest of that kind we ever beheld, were observed occasionally to float on the surface of the water, within about a stone's cast of the shore. The sea was perfectly calm; and the vari^ated rays occasioned by the ex- piring lamp of day gave a sparkling and crimson hue to the sombre skins of these gigantic inhabitants of the deep, as they severally appeared ap- parently sportively engaged in the briny element." '' The royal munificence and splendour displayed at the Pavilion, on Friday evening, is here still the prime topic of conversation. His royal highness thus having contributed to the happiness of the higher order of sodety, on the following day also gave cheerfulness to the spirits of the poor, by commanding that bis usual anniud bounty, to the amount of fifty guineas, in bread and beef, for thdr relief, should be doubled ; and the above articles, to the amount of one hundred guineas, on Saturday were accordingly distributed among them." To " tell truth and shame the devil," as we have gene- rally done in this little work, we should have supposed, from the liberal character elsewhere ascribed to the prince regent, that the regular annual bounty would have been four or six times the amount. In a Brighton paper of last winter, we remember to have seen it stated, that the private benefactions of the present king and queen, though not publicly announced, were very considerable indeed ; and that more than one person was charged to report to them every case of distress, which was promptly relieved. *' The following extract of a letter received here, from a gentleman who lately passed through Holland, &c. on his route to Dussddorf^ may not be unacceptable :• *' The Dutch daily become more dissatisfied with their friends, the French, lequisitionfl upon requisitionB bang unceasingly made to diatresB BKIGHTON. 79 tfaem. One hundred millions of guilders have been recently demanded, of which seventy millions are already paid, and a time specified for the adnneement of tlie remainder. Every man capable of bearing arms, between the ages of sixteen and forty, is also required to assist in the invaaion of Cn^and, which appears to have given the Dutch the most I sincere affliction, though they dare only express their real sentiments in private. The Ihitch, in hct, wish all possible success to the British, and rightly conjecture that their future wdfare must entirely depend on the pro^erity of England. The French themselves do not hesitate openly to dedaie their fears that inevitable destruction awaits them, should itxey even wicceed unmolested in crossing the Herring' Pond, the moment they place ibar feet on the terra Jinna of Albion." 1806. " Aftgtut l3.~The splendour of rank, the elegance of fashion, and in- i tereating display of female charms, which distinguished the Castle rooms I last night, are still here the grateful theme of public animadversion. The sapper rooms could not half accommodate the company present: the tables, eonaequeatly, on the removal of the first party that surrounded them, were presently occupied by a second, and so on to the third and fourth. The prince iv^as dressed as a field marshal, and looked remarkably welL The Duke of Clarence wore a plain blue coat ; the Duke of Kent the uniform of his own regiment, scarlet faced with green. We did not observe the . Dnke of Sussex in the ball-room. The illuminations, generally speaking, in the town, were in no wise adapted to the occasion. The Theatre, how- ever, was very splendid ; variegated lamps, a blazing star, surmounted with the feathers, and the initials P. W. in front of the building, had a very brilliant and ^propriate effect. Mr. Burfield's variegated lamps were very tastefully displayed. Mr. Pearson's variegated lamps ,the feathers, and P. W. ; Donaldson's library, vari^ated lamps, with G. P. W. ; Wilkes's Library, the feathers, and P. W. in variegated lamps ; the Coach Offices of Gourd, Crossweller, and Bradford, were all very brilliant ; Mr. Cooke, a transparency over his door, with the inscription, ' Long live the Prince.' A few others, whose names we cannot immediately recollect, paid also the requisite at- tention to the evening." PAVILION. ** On Friday and Saturday the prince, attended by Colonel Leigh and Colonel Hanger, rode for several hours. Soon afler six o'clock, on the former evening, his royal highness, in his carriage, left the Pavilion, to dine with the Marchioness of Downshire, at Westfield Lodge. Among the elegantes present on this occasion were, Lord and Lady Harrington, the beautiful and accomplished Lady Ann Maria Stanhope, Mrs. Fitzherbert, Baron Eben, Colonel Hanger, Colonel Leigh, &c. forming, on the whole, a sdect and sociable party of fourteen. The dinner was of the most brilliant and inviting description ; and the dessert consisted of all the rarities which art or the season could produce. About nine o'clock the prince, the mar- diioness, and the whole of her guests, from Westfield Lodge, removed to the Pavilion, where a most splendid entertainment, consisting of a ball and supper, &C. was given by the prince, and of which the greater part of the 80 COAST OF SUSSEX. most distinguished persons here at present partook, in number somewhat exceeding one hundred and sixty. Though the whole suite of apartments were not lighted up on tliis evening, yet^ as we have previously promised a description of them, we conceive the present opportunity a favouraUe one for the performance of the task. To give an accurate relation of the whole of these superb apartments, as they are enriched and beautified^ would extend far beyond the limits of a newspaper : we shsll, however, endeavour to impress our readers with a faint idea of this superb and en- chanting place. From the west, or back front of the structure, you arrive at the grand entrance hall, the colour of which is of a warm clay, with blue and red mouldings. It is thirty-five feet square, and twenty feet high, and is tastefully embellished in the Chinese style. A light Chinese gsllery, with an awning, very tastefully designed, crosses it; beneath whidi are placed Chinese figures, as large as life, habited in the costume of the country, each holding a lantern, glazed with coloured glass, on which are represented flowers, &c. peculiar to the eastern world, very neatly ex- ecuted, and very beautiful in effect From this hall you pass to the ante- room, which is decorated with nine very fine Chinese paintings (done in China), representing the manners of the people. The firames of th^ pictures are novel and striking ; the tops are ornamented with trophies of war and military weapons of the Chinese. The ground of this room is scarlet, and it displays the paintings to the utmost advantage. From this you remove to a small drawing-room, the ground of which is bright yeUow. On the walls are six Chinese paintings, of the same description as the former; the frames, however, being different, and the tops of them are ornamented with Chinese embellishments, articles of dress, musical instruments, incense pots, &c &C. The communication of this apartment to the next is, per- haps, the most strikingly beautiful of all that the most exquisite art and refined taste have hitherto invented, of a similar description, to fascinate the eye in this country. It is entirely formed of stained glass, exhibiting the peculiar insects, fruits, flowers, &c. &c of the Chinese country; and when you are within it, it has the appearance of, and titerslly is, a mag« nificent painted Chinese lantern, twelve feet longj and eight feet wide, brilliantly illuminated on the exterior, which shows its transparency, and produces an efiect too exquisite to be described. From this you enter the last apartment to the south of the building, called the conservatory, though it is more often distinguished as the music-room. It is fifty feet long, thirty feet wide, and twenty feet high. The roof is painted in imitation of the tea and rose wood, and is supported by twenty oolumna of a scarlet colour, with the five clawed dragons twining round them. The sides are covered with a Chinese hutorical paper, superb in appearance, and brilliant in efibct Returning to the ante-room, on the left, you pass to the spacious rotunda, or saloon. This room forms an oblong of fifty-five feet. The ceiling is the best contrived and executed we ever saw, and represents a clouded sky, from which are suspended by flying dragons, not chandeliers, as formerly, three immense Chinese lanterns, on which are seen the^um, or bird of royalty, in all its rich and vari^ated plumage, and such as in China, we believe^ is only permitted to ornament the palace of the emperor. The cornice and frieze of this magnificent apartment are scarlet, Uue, and BniGHTOK. 81 yellow^ before which hangs a yeOow silk net^ with tassels and beUs, splendid In efl^t, and is perfectly unique. The cornice is supported by four columns and eight pilasters, with dragons twisting round them^ &c. A light cofrridot or charmingly painted gallery passes round the dome> from the open work of which eight dragons appear in the act of flying through, each suspending, by an elegant chain, a painted Chinese lantern, though of much smaller dimensions than the three former. In these lanterns are upwards of thirty Argand burners, which difiVise a brilliance almost equal to the blaze of the finest day, and exhibit the pandled sides of the room, and a beautiful Chinese paper of a blue ground, the ornaments of which are white etched with silver, interspersed with birds of the richest plumage, and which literally appear animated, and fascinate the beholder. You next proceed to the long gallery. This room is fifty-six feet in length, and twenty in width; the walls are covered with an expensive and very beautiful Chinese historical paper. The room adjoining to this is the last to the north, and is generally distinguished as the banqueting-room. This apartment is of the same dimensions as the conservatory or music-room, at the extremity to the south, but the ceiling is douded. ** The furniture of this superb palace corresponds with the magnificence of the rooms. Mirrors of the largest dimensions, and most elegant de- scription, are seen in all parts, reflecting the indescribable beauties of the place, and producing an effect such as must be seen to be understood, for without which no person can form an adequate idea of its transcendent splendour. The wood-work throughout the structure, the doors, shutters. Sec &c. are painted in imitation of the woods in China. The corridors and staircases are of the same colour as the haD, but ornamented in the peculiar style of the Chinese covered ways. The wood-work and painting are very highly varnished. The whole suite of apartments are illuminated with Chinese lanterns. The furniture is all in the Chinese style, and is of the most rich and rare description. Sofas, chairs, tables, candelabras, &e, correspond in elegance, and splendour of efiect. China jars, Mandarine figures, dragons, and every rare specimen of ornamental china, together with cabinets, japanned screens, &c. are in the richest profusion. The rooms illuminated on Friday evening were, the banquedng-room, the long gallery, the grand saloon, the ante-room, and the entrance halL In the long gallery the company danced. The ball was opened about half-past nine o'clock, by Colonel Fuller, and, we believe, Lady Ann Maria Stanhope. Nearly thirty couple foHowed^ to the agreeaUe air of Lady Down. The prince looked in extreme good health, and was in most excellent spirits, making happy, by his condescensive affitbility and polished manners, the el^ant crowd by which he was surrounded. In the course of the evening his royal highness danced a waltz with the accomplished Princess de Gerebtzoff. The dresses of the ladies were splendid to a degree. The prevalent dress was white ; the hair out of powder, and ornamented with a profusion of diamonds. Marchioness Downshire was habited in white satin, tastefully embellished with diamonds to an immense amount. Many of the most beautiful women we ever saw were present ; and never did they appear more interesting and lovely. About one o'clock dancing ceased, and the company removed to the supper-rooms, the tables of which G 8S COAST OF SUSSEX. were covered with every delicacy; nor could the taate and elegance of their arrangement be surpaaaed. About two o'clock the eUgantes were once more engaged in the ball-room ; and about three hours subsequently they^ highly gratified with the princely entertainment they had recdved^ began generally to retire. Mr. Sheridan, who arrived here the day before, was of the royal party. On the night following (Saturday) it being the natal day of the little interesting protege of Mrs. Fit^erbert^ Miss Seymour, this young lady gave a ball and supper to a party of juvenile nobility, at the Pavilion. On Thursday next, according to annual custom, the servants on the royal establishment will be treated with a ball and supper at their royal master's expense. The prince was on the Steyne for a short time bdfore dinner to-day." '^ Oct. 1.— The town, since the departure of the prince, has been, compa- ratively speaking, very dull. The rides and walks, however, both yesterday and to-day, have displayed much el^ant company. The prince is expected to dine at the Pavilion this evening. The Duke of Clarence returns to this place with the prince. The Duke of Cambridge, we hear, leaves his royal brothers aftar the review to-day, near Beacby Head, to return to Eastbourne ; and from thence to London. Last ni^t there was a dress ball at the Castle, at which, in consequence of the absence of the prince, the company were mudi more numerous than fashionable. The merry dance com- menced, about a quarter before ten o'clock, with the lively air of Lady Ca- roline Lee's reel, and finished, at about half past one o'clock in the morning, with MoUy put the Kettle on •." ** The Cygnet weighed anchor, and stood out to sea last night Scarody a ship of war has been perceptible from this place the whole of the day." '< One shilling per man was given by the commander-in-chief, after the review on Saturday last, to the privates of the respective raiments on that day engaged, to drink his majesty's health, and to cheer their spirits after the severity of the practice. There were upwards of four thousand men in the field that were entitled to partake of his royal highness's bounty, which consequently amounts to something better than two hundred pounds." *' The Duke of Clarence's three sons were actively employed with their muskets, in receiving the instructions of a seijeant a£ the South Gloucester Militia, on the Pavilion lawn." MOBlfINO AIR. ''A few pedestrians of rank here seek health by visiting the steeps at an early hour in the morning, from whence they return refreshed, and with keen appetites, to the breakfast-table. The apothecaries say, that such customs * are more honoured in the breach than the observance;' for if such practices were general, but few nervous patients would be found, and physic become a mere drug'* * Tempora mutantur/ BRIGHTON. 83 " Dec. 6, This being the day appointed for the general thanksgiving for the late briUiant success of our arms, the same solemnity and decorum has distinguished this town as is usual on a Sunday. The prince attended dirine service at the Chapel Royal, where an excellently appropriate and very impressive discourse was delivered by the Rev. Mr. Portis from the 103d Psalm, the 1st and 2d verses:—' Bless the Lord, O my soul ! and all that is within me, bless his holy name— Bless the Lord, O my soul ! and forget not all his benefits.' In the pew with his royal highness were Colonel Leigh and Mr. Day. After the service^ a very handsome collection was made for the Patriotic Fund, the particulars of which have not yet transpired. At the parish church an excellent sermon was preached by the Rev. Mr. Can*. No collection for the Patriotic Fund was there made, as we hear the worthy minister intends personally to visit the individuals of his parish for their donations for so truly praise-worthy a purpose. Both the diurch and the chapel royal were immensely crowded.— At three o'clock this afternoon, the South Gloucester Militia were drawn up, with- out arms, on Marlborough Steyne ; lyhen, in consequence of the whole of the privates of the regiment, two only excepted, having signified to their officers their desire of contributing one day's pay to the Patriotic Fund, Lieutenant-Colonel Wall, in a true soldier-like speech, addressed them on the sul^ect. Their conduct, the colonel observed, was highly honourable to themselves both as soldiers and as men^ and was such as had afforded their officers great satisfaction. * It is their intention,' the colonel con- tinued, ' that the request you have made shall be granted. The amount of one day's pay, in if our name, is to be sent to the Patriotic Fund; but your officers, in testimony of their esteem of your handsome and feeling bdiaviour, b^ that the whole amount may be paid by them. The act is yours, though the expense will cheerfully be submitted to by them, and to you only will the full credit arising from it attach.' The colonel then dis- missed them, remarking that he did not wish them to consider the day al- together as a day of humiliation and self-denial, but as a day of prudent mirth and rejoicing; wherefore, he should exempt them from their military duties, and dispense with their attending the parade practice that evening. The liberal conduct of the South Gloucester officers on this occasion is, at present, the grateful topic of Brightonian conversation." It is hard to say whether this was more creditable to the offi- cers or soldiers. '' Dec. 1 1.— It was at one time understood that there was not to have been a collection made at the church-doors on the day of thanksgiving, but that the minister, Mr. Carr, would wait on the individuals resident in the town for their respective voluntary contributions in support of the Patriotic Fund. It appears, however, that a collection of between fifty and sixty pounds was made at the church on that occasion. At the Chapel Royal, the collection amounted to nearly ninety pounds. Collections were also made at the Huntingdonian Chapel and the Presbyterian Meeting-house ; at the former place it amounted to twenty-five pounds, and twenty-three pounds at the latter. A contribution of ten pounds was likewise sent from the Jewish Synagogue." g2 84 COAST OF SUSSEX. 1806. *' Another fall of the diff to the east took place here a day or two ago. When too late to secure the property in that quarter, in all probability the hooaeholdera will submit to the expense of erecting gnnns" STRIKING WIT. ** An attorney, in presenting a copy of a writ to an auctioneer at Brighton not bng since, apologised for his unfriendly visit, and concluded with hoping that the other would not be offended, as he was but merely performing an unpleasant duty of bis profession. ' Certainly not,' said the auctioneer; * you must attend to the duties of your profession, and so must I to mine.' This said, he instantly knocked him davm." '^ March 21.— The plan of the intended harbour has drawn crowds of people, of all ranks and description, to the (Md Ship for some days past; Admiral Southerby, and a few other high naval characters, were of the assemblage there on Wednesday last The inspection of the plan, however, operates difilsrently on different individuals, and the opiiuona regarding it are multifarious and unsettled." ** The inhabitants of this place are at present in some little degree of com* motion, in consequence of the bill brought forward by one of the county members, Mr. Fuller, and passed once in the House of Commons, for a jutty or jutties to be erected on this part of the coast, and immediately in front of this town. The inhabitants here are generally of opinion that such a measure, if ever it were to be carried into efiect, would prove very de^ structive to their interests, and, as sudi, they feel themselves perfectly jus- tified in exerting their united efibrts to prevent it" ''On Wednesday there is to be a meeting at the Old Ship of the house- holders of this place, regarding the establishment, long talked of here, of a r^ular police, and at which great contrariety of opinions, much noise, discord, and confilsion is anticipated." "July 3.— Yesterday there was a general meeting at the Old Ship> respecting the communication which had been made from the Prince of Wales to Mr. Ryecroft, for the incorporating of the town of Brighton, and the estabhshment of a r^ular police. The meeting was more nu- merously and respectably attended than any which on that sulrject had preceded it, and at whidi all necessary matters were very ably and dis- passionately discussed. After a debate of several hours, the incorporation by charter was unanimously n^atived, and an address of thanks was as unanimously voted to his Royal Highness, for the oondescensive and kind interest which he» at all times, took in the welfare of the inhabitants of the town. The Rev. Mr. Carr was in the chair. During the above debate, it was made known that the Prince had no particular desire that the incorporar don by charter should be adopted, unless the inhabitants of the town should conceive that such a measure would promote their interests; and that any other mode which they might better approve of, for the impartial administration of justice in the place, should be honoured with his royal sanction." BKIGHTON. 85 8TUBGE0N. '^ A sturgeon, weig^ng betweai serenty and eighty pounds^ was brou^t on shore here on Friday last by a fisherman. A sturgeon is a very rare fieSi in this market, so rare, in fact, that the fish buyers are ignorant of its value. Half a guinea, and subsequently two pounds, were offered for the fish in question ; but the fisherman was advised not to part with it At so moderate a price. As the only method of getting it off his hands, with a prospect of fair advantage to himself, he therefore carefully packed it up, and sent it off by one of the coaches for the market at Billingsgate, where it ultimately produced a sum within a few shillings of eight .guineas." BENEVOLENCE. *' A Cyprian here, a day or two ago, from pecuniary embarrassment, 1)eing wrou^t to a pitch of desperation, determined on an act of suicide, and actually threw herself into the sea. Happily she was observed by a Mr. Cdwort, who, though there was a heavy swell in the Channel at the time, plunged into the briny dement after her, and preserved her life. By this worthy gentleman a subscription was soon after opened at Raggett's, and thirty guineas were presently collected for the poor girl's relief." We may be allowed to say, that this was very creditable io all parties concerned, as, no person in distress, however un- happy or criminal, should be thought beneath the notice of the best — the best, did we say ? — by them they assuredly will not. Few situations are more pitiable than those of persons similarly circumstanced to the unfortunate individual here mentioned. Not always wilfully and perseveringly guilty ; often the deserted victims of baseness and heartlessness ! who having passed the Rubicon, find no friendly hand extended to invite them back, and restore them to their friends, with some hope and chance of comparative happiness again dawning upon them : not always either deserted by all their better tastes and feelings, any more than superior manners, instances of which have not unfrequently been seen and noticed by many *. If, therefore, any occasion should occur where desperate affliction like the above should be indicated or even expected, we may say, not on insufficient, but on the best and most beneficent authority, ** go and do likewise.*^ Is it to be supposed, that any superiority of conduct, if ever so brightly robed in virtue, * Referenee may be made to the Morning Herald of Dec. 3, 1882, or any periodical of that date, relating an incident which occurred Nov. 26. We cannot admire the conduct of the official gentleman there concerned. 86 COAST OF SUSSEX. ought to render any others the objects of contempt alone and not pity ? That vrill be the very Pharisaical antipodes to the spirit of Him whom they perhaps profess to follow as their Lord and benefactor. And if the diamond shield of mercy be extended before any unfortunate person, who is qualified to throw the first dirty pebble at it ? ** Give every one his deserts, and who shall escape whipping?*^ LIBERAL ENTKRTAINMENTB. '' Aug, Id.— At the Pavilion dinner yesterday, the Prince entertained five of bia royal brothers, the Dukes of York, Clarence, Kent, Sussex, and Cumberland. Of the splendid party were also the Duke of Orleans, M. Beaujolois, the Marquis of Winchester, Count Stahremberg, Mr. Sheridan, Colonels Turner and Lee, &;c. This being the natal day of the heir appa^ rent, the morning was ushered in by the ringing of bells, and the flag was hoisted on the tower of the church. Two oxen, pro bono jmbUtsty are roast- ing whole on the Level Such an agreeable bustle as this town at present exhibits, was never witnessed here before. Business is totally given op, and pleasure is the standing order of the day. At ten o'clock a.v. the Otter sloop of war, decorated with the colours of all nations, hoisted the royal standard at the main, and announced the event by a discharge of her guns. The Gallant armed brig, the Calypso armed brig, and Earl Craven's yacht, were also dressed out with colours. About this time the Carabineers from Shoreham, and the Fourth Dragoons, passed to the north and south of the town for the Downs. The Artillery, the King's Dragoons, and the Nottingham and South Gloucester Militias were under arms as early as four o'clock in the morning. At half-past twelve o'clock the Prince of Wales, habited as a field-marshal, a star at his breast, accompanied by bis royal brothers and a numerous suite of Noblemen, &c. and mounted on a gray charger, splendidly caparisoned, left the Pavilion for the Downs, where the following regiments were drawn up in line in the same order as they are named, banning at the right wing:--the Royal Horse Artillery, the Ist regiment of King's Dragoon Guards, the ith Dragoons, the Royal Cheshire, the South Hants, the Nottingham and the South Gloucester Militias, the Carabineers, and the Foot Artillery from Lewes. The royal brothers were oU in regimentals, with stars at their breasts. The Duke of Sussex wore his Highland uniform. The Earl of Moira, General White, Count Beau- joloiB, Lord E. Somerset, the Earl of Barrymore, &c. were in the Prince's suite. Lady Haggerstone and Miss Seymour, the Lord ChanceQor, Lord Headfort, Mr. Sheridan, and Mr. Smith were in the Prince's landau, Mrs. Fitzherbert was detained at home by indisposition. As soon as the royal cavalcade'was distinguished by the military on the Downs, signal guns were discharged, and every necessary adjustment was in an instant made for its reception. The royal party now advanced, and passed down the centre of the line, each regiment saluting, and the bands altematdy playing God Save the King. Having reached the extremity of the line, tiie caval- cade turned back, and the commander-in-chief and staff, Earl Moira, BRIGHTON. 87 Lieutenant-general Lennox^ Major-general Huguenin^ Earl Craven, &c. took their stations in the centre of the line, the Prince and the other Royal Dukes facing them. The whole line now saluted the Prince. This ended, the line passed the Prince in review order, to slow time, as follows : first. Captain Downman and the Royal Artillery, the Commander-in-chief and Stafi^ Earl Moira and Staff, Lieutenant-general Lennox and Staff, Major- general Huguenin and Staff, Earl Craven and Staff, the King^s Dragoons, the 4th Dragoons, the Cheshire, South Hants, Nottingham, and South Gloucester Militias, the Carabineers, and the Foot Artillery; the bands of each regiment wheeling off^ and playing until the regiment to which they were attached had gone by. The regiments again passed to quick time, the Duke of York, &c having stationed themselves with the Prince of Wales. The line was again formed, when tifeu dejoie was fired in a very capital style. Huzzas and God Save the King concluded the proceedings this day on the hill, when a signal was hoisted at the tel^raph for the shipping to salute, which was instantly obeyed ; and every house in the town was shaken by the explosion. In this splendid review the Royal Cheshire Regiment of Militia particularly distinguished itself. The best military judges were of opinion that it could not be surpassed by any n^- ment ei^er in Great Britain or on the continent. The princes returned to the Pavilion about half-past three o'clock. At six all the splendor and fashion of Brighton were assembled to dine at the Pavilion." " Tuesday Evening,— The crowd on the Level in number are many thousands; and his royal highness's butcher, RusseD, habited in a white jacket, the sleeves ornamented with buff and blue ribbons, with a blue sash containing the words ' Long Live the Royal Brothers,' with a white apron and steel, and a fanciful cap to correspond, has just given the signal for the grand carver to do his duty. The acclamations of the multitude are deaf- ening, and all now is confusion, expectation, and joy. The Nottingham Militia, whose encampment adjoins the public kitchens, are busy actore in this scena They distinguish* themselves manfully, and many a heavy joint, after severe strug^es for victory, is borne by them triumphantly to their tents. Amongst the splendid party at the Pavilion are, the six royal brothers, the Lord Chancellor, Earl Moira, Count Beaujolois, Mr. Sheridan, Mr. Tiemey, with a numerous assemblage of persons, the most distin- guished for their rank and talents. Two bands of music, the Prince's own and the South Gloucester, play alternately on the lawn. The Steyne is crowded with pedestrians. The town is generally illuminated: Pollard's and Donaldson's libraries have both a very brilliant appearance. The Theatre, Fisher's Lounge, Mr. Russell's the Old Ship, the New Inn, the Coach Offices, Blaker's, Alexander's, and the greater part of the houses about the bottom of North-street, are also lighted up in a very radiant style. At ten o'clock the princes and the whole of the royal dinner-party left the Pavilion for the ball at the Castle. The rooms had a good show at company as early as half-past eight o'clock, but towards nine they b^;an to arrive in crowds. Carriages with four and six horses rattled through the town from Worthing, Rottingdean, Lewes, and Eastbourne. Before ten o'clock not less than four hundred persons were present; and before eleven the assemblage had recdved an addition of two hundred at least The crowd occasioned heat, and many ladies nearly fainted, though every 88 COAST OF SUSSEX. posBiUe precaution was taken to prevent it When the royal farothera entered the ball-room, the band (the Prince's) struck up God Save the King» all the company standing until they had paissed down the room. All the rank, elegance, fashion, and beauty in Sussex were present A few minutes subsequent to the arrival of the princes d4 i"«"g commenced with the Honey Moon. About fifty couple stood up; who led off it was impossible correctly to asoertaia. This dance was succeeded by Lord Maodonald's reel; at the end of which, about half an hour after midnight, the Prince and his royal brothers removed to the supper-rooms ; tables were lud in three separate roomaiy but the company was so numerous, that many could not be accom- modated with seats, and, consequently, sam refreshments, they were com- pelled to remain in the ball-room. The tables were decorated with every delicacy of the season. The ladies were dressed in an unusual style of ele- gance ; such a rich display of diamonds we never saw at a public entertain- ment before, and such a fiMM*in^ring display of beautiful women, perhaps^ in one house, was not to be found in any other part of the world The Princes were all in regimentals, and all appeared in high health and spirits. The attention paid by those illustrious personages to the company was highly flattering. They entered into conversation with all they knew ; and the ladies were hig^y gratified with the marked attention which was so peculiarly bestowed on them ; and all ultimately retired, highly gratified with the entertainment they had received." 1807. " The hundred beds of the Old Ship have been fully occupied fw more than the last six weeks. This inn, as it is one of the livgest, so, in point of convenience and genteel accommodation, it is one of the best in England." '' On Saturday, some fishermen brought on shore to the fish-market, Brighton, a shark, which measured upwards of eight feet in length. This despot of the deep had pursued a shoal of mackerel into a fleet of nets, and after doing a great deal of damage to them, got so entangled, that he could not extricate himself.'' *' June 27.— The new theatre opened on Saturday, with the tragedy of Hamlet, Mr. and Mrs. C. Kemble represented the Danish Prince and Ophelia. The theatre is very splendid indeed, yet its decorations are at once tasteful and simple. There Is nothing to dazzle at the first glance, but every thing on which the eye can rest with pleasure. The pro- prietor, Mr. Cobb, has done all in his power to render it worthy of royal patronage, and it speaks much for his liberality and the taste of the artists whom he has employed. The management rests with Mr. Brunton, the lessee." VISIT OF THE PRINCESS CHAflLOTTE. " JtJy 27.— About eight o'clock yesterday evening, an open barouche, with four horses, halted for a few minutes nearly opposite to the Pavilion, and shortly after it was ascertained that the carriage contained the Princess Charlotte of Wales. The carriage at length moved for the Buff and Blue Houses, and afterwards down the North and South Parades, followed by an BRIOUTON. 89 immcnae oonfluence of people^ anxious to obtain a view of the intereating UoBHHn of royalty. As if to gratify the populace, the carriage moved but slowly, and on the North Parade it again halted for a few minutea. Her royal hi^^neas was haluted in a very plain and simple style, white frock and skmch straw hat She appeared in charming health, and much pleased with the respectful notice that she obtained. Her extreme likeness to her royal parent was loudly spoken of, and on that subject there could be but one opinion. Her roysl highness, prior to her arrival here yesterday, had paid a Yisit to Lewes. She returned from hence to Worthing." VISIT OF THE PBIN0E8S CHABLOTTB ON HEB FATHEB's BIBTH-DAT. ** Am^» 12.— His royal highness the Prince of Wales's birthday was an- nounced this morning by the ringing of beUs, and every demonstration of joy; colours were hoisted on the church. The gun-lNig» the Strenuous, and Earl Craven's boat, were dressed in national ooburs, and placed in a situation to be seen from the Pavilion. By eight o'clock the whole town was in motion, the Marine Parade was lined with company, the balconies were full of beauty and fashion, and all the telescopes were in use. At ten o'dock the gun-brig fired a royal salute, which was answered by Earl Craven's boat His royal highness the Prince of Wales's band, in full uniform, played on the lawn in the front of the Pavilion; and on the out- side of the railing, the carriages formed a complete line, the ladies sitting on the boxes, surrounded by a vast number of gentlemen on horseback, \ viewing the lawn in the front of the Pavilion, where all the royal dukes were walking. At eleven o'clock, her roysl highness the Princess Char- lotte of Wales arrived at the Pavilion from Worthing, in one of her royal &ther's carriages, drawn by four beautiful bays. Her royal highness was dressed in white muslin, trimmed with point lace, Vandyked at the edges, and wore a L^hom gipsy hat, with wreaths of small roses round the edge of the leaf, and a second row round the crown. Her royal highness looked most charmingly, and was received at the grand entrance by her royal lather and uncles, who conducted her to the Chinese apartment, with which she appeared greatly delighted. The Pavilion was surrounded on all sides by a most numerous concourse of spectators, who waited anxiously to see the royal party proceed to the ground, where the grand review was to take place. At twelve o'clock a royal salute was fired from the bat- teries; and immediately after two of the royal carriages came out, the first drawn by four bays, with two postilions dressed in blue-striped jackets, and brown beaver hats ; in this carriage were Viscount and Viscountess Mdboume, Lord Erskine, and Mr. Dalmy; in the second, her royal hi^ ness the Princess Charlotte of Wales, attended by the Dowager Lady De CUffinrd and another lady; the carriage was drawn by six fine bay horses; after which followed his roysl highness the Prince c^ Wales, mounted on a beautiful iron gray charger. His royal highness was most superbly dressed in the hussar uniform, and wore a diamond belt, with a diamond crown on his breast; the feather in his roysl highness's cap was most superb, endrded with dismonds round the bottom, and fixed in a diamond loop ; never did we witness his royal highness in better health and spirits. The accoutrements of his charger were most superb. They proceeded slowly to the ground, where the troops were formed in a line, which was 90 COAST OF SUSSEX. on the beandful hOk at the four-mile course, which oommaiid a grind ▼lew of the sea. At within half a mile from tibe ground, his mpl high- nefls the Duke of York galloped up to the line, which extended upwards of a mile, and passed them without any form. They were placed in the Al- lowing order: on the right the horse artillery ; next, die First Drsgoon Guards ; then the third, or Kingfs Own ; the Cheshire infantry ; the Berkshire ; the Second Somerset ; the South Hants ; the South Gloucester ; and fourth troop of the fourteenth, or Duchess of York's Light Dragoons ; and the foot artillery, which composed the line. At half-past twdve the whole of the royal party arrived on the ground, and took their station in the centre of the line ; her royal highness the Princess Charlotte of Wales s carriage stood just behind her royal fatlier. As soon as the royal party had taken their station, a royal salute of twenty-one guns was fired from the horse artillery ; the ranks formed into open order, when the royal party went down the front of the Une, returned by the rear, and retook their station in the centre, when the whole of the line passed in ordinary and quick time, the different bands playing ' €rod save the King;' after which they formed the line and fired afeu'^de-joie, which was followed by three cheers, the bands playing ' God save the King.' Some ships passing at the time, received signals from the telegraph ; they immediatdy fired a royal salute, and hoisted the royal standard. There was also a sham fight on the sea with small boats, which had a very pretty effect The day was uncommonly fine, and not one accident occurred to damp the joy mani- fested on tlds happy occasion. A good deal of mirth was occasioned by the firing ; several of the Horses that had been taken from the carriages having broken loose, and run in all directions, leaving many of the com- pany fixed in their carriages until the horses were caught At half-past three the royal party returned to the Pavilion, where his royal highness the Prince of Wales's band was playing to receive them. Her royal big- ness the Princess Charlotte of Wales, after partaking of some refreshments, walked on the lawn with her royal uncles, who seemed to vie with eadi other in attention to her. His royal highness the Duke of Cambridge danced with her on the lawn, and at six o'clock she returned to Worthing. At eight o'clock the royal party, the Duke of St Alban s, the Marquis of Headfort, Earls Berkeley, Craven, Dursley, Bathurst, and Barrymore; Viscount Mdboume; Lords Petersham, Erskine, and Charles, Edward, and Arthur Somerset, and several military officers, sat down to dinner. The Pavilion was most brilliantly lighted, and the South Gloucester band played on the Steyne. The illuminations were splendid. The prince attended the baU at the Castle in the evening, which was crowded with fashion and beauty, but none of the royal party joined in the dance. The supper was of the first description, but would have been better enjoyed had the company been less numerous. The prince retired at an early hour." STORMS. " Nov, 2S. — A more turbulent week in regard to the weather, than the last has proved, in this part of the world, can scarcely be recollected. On Thursday evening, a tremendous) gale from the south-west came on, and which raged witli the utmost fury during the whole of that night and BRIGHTON. 91 following day. Several houses here were nearly unroofed, and one or two m an unfini^ed state were literally blown down. The destruction of glass has been beyond all precedent great Several houses in St. James's-street had each from twenty to thirty panes demolished, and similar injuries were received in various parts of the town. The most distressing accident, how- ever, on Thursday evening, was with a boat, belonging to a person of the name of Short, who, with a fisherman, an inhabitant of Worthing, had just returned from Hastings with a cargo of herrings, having on board forty thousand.— The boat passed this town about nine o'clock in the evening, with the intention of running into Shoreham Harbour. At the harbour's entrance, melancholy to relate, within a stone's cast of being in a place of safety, the boat upset, and both of the men were drowned. The body of the Worthing man was washed on shore here yesterday, and was conveyed to the workhouse. The body of Short has not yet been picked up. Up- wards of ten thousand of the herrings which the boat contained were yesterday washed ashore at Rottingdean, and taken up by the inhabitants there, being a distance of nearly eight miles from the place where the fatal accident occurred. The weather yesterday was boisterous, but comparatively fine to what it had been for several preceding days. In the evening another unfavourable alteration took place, and the whole night proved to be ex- cessively stormy.— At this time it blows a complete hurricane at due south, accompanied with the most soaking rains we ever experienced. Happily not a sail of any description is distinguishable in this part of the Channel; from the highness of the tide, the most serious apprehensions are entertained for the fate of the eastern diffs." ** The Duke and Duchess of Montrose were here on Saturday, from Worthing, to which place their graces returned towards the evening." *< The gaiety of this place now daily increases ; the rides and walks, con- sequently, until dinner time, have gay appearances. The Steyne, and the libraries, are also crowded of an evening. The donkies, alias Jerusalem ponies, are getting rather into disuse, a phalanx of sprightly cropped-eared ponies taking their stand at the south end of the Steyne, where donkies were formerly exhibit^. The former are in high favour with the belles. Upwards of fourteen, in one group, we observed, scampering over the Downs with their fair burthens this morning; a few donkies were ambling their snail's pace at the same time, the ponies snorting as they passed, as though they had felt it disgraceful to be seqn in such slu^sh company." '^ It is rumoured here, but with how much truth we know not, that the Princess of Wales will spend the greater part of the summer at Worthing." Puns.—*' Many of our lovely belles took ducks for breakfast this morning, purchased of their cateress, Martha Gunn, who boasts that from the fair profits she gains by the sale of her ducks, she is often enabled to purchase a goose for dinner.— The hostile shots that have lately been exchanged be- tween the Ship and the Castle here, appear likely to end in sociable balls at the former place, for the remainder of the season." 9& COAST OF SUSSEX. 1809. '' Some recent alterations, it appears, wiU shortly take place in the Prince of Wales's establishment, both here and in London^ as Mr. Becht, his Royal Highness's house-steward, has resigned his situation ; but who is to be his successor, we have not yet heard. Mr. B., than whom we know no person more worthy, was ever honoured with the confidence, so far as related to his department, of his royal master, and who now, in token of his respect for the uprightness of his character, has presented him with a house and farm, the property of his Royal Highness, to the north of this town about half a mUe, on the Cuckfidd road, which will be Mr. Becht's residence in future, with free permission to visit Carleton-house, or the Pavilion, whenever, and for whatever lengtli of time he pleases." This was a princely act. JUBILEE ON THE OCCASION OF THE FIFTIETH YEAR OF THE REIGN OF GEORGE III. ** Oct 25.— The weather yesterday was as favourable as could have been desired. The heavens might be figuratively represented as smiling on creation, in approval of those laudable and loyd rejoicings that, in every quarter, predominated. The mom was ushered in by the ringing of bells, &c., and the shops, as on a Sunday, were all shut, and during the preceding part of the day, the solemnity of Sunday pervaded the town, which was deemed the best mode of celebrating the day, by paying the earliest atten- tion to the rites of religion, and the practice of the moral duties*. At one o'clock a royal salute was fired from the fort, which was repeated by a gun-brig, the only ship of war lying within sight of the town. At half- past one o'clock the doors of the Royal Riding House, in Church-street, were thrown open for the admission of the benevolent Mr. MigheIVs party, in number about two thousand three hundred, exclusive of the hundred stewards, who were very active on the occasion. Never was any entertain- ment r^;ulated with more order than was this ; every body was happy, and not a single unpleasant accident occurred to impede the harmony of the proceedings. About fifteen hundred poor persons were also dined at the same time in the farm-yard of Mr. Scrase, about three hundred yards from the former place, at the expense of a party of gentlemen, who opened a subscription for such a benevolent purpose, and where similar order and harmony prevailed. The breaking up of both parties was attended with the same decorum and regularity as had happily marked their meeting. The grateful poor had retired, generally uttering expressions of loyalty, and invoking blessings on Mr. Mighell and their liberal friends, to their several residences, by five o'clock. There was no illumination in the evening, * We were going to say « the conduct of the privateers was the most audacious. They are stated to have ran in dose enough to fire at the people on the shore, and to have made a capture or two in despite of any and every species of force iducfa could be hrou^t to bear against them." '* On Monday, the Easter holiday folks, in all the brilliance of Sunday finery, assembled in great numbers at the Bear public-house, about a mile north of the town, on the grounds contiguous to which they were subse- quently entertained with the polished diversions of cock fighting, and a baiting of a badger. Yesterday, to give interesting variety to their sports, a bull was tied to the stake and baited at Hove, which afforded some amusement, and at which the whole of the Bear assemblage of the preceding day was present. In the latter instance some danger was threatened, as the compact phalanx of gazers was broken through, and put to the rout by the rottenness of the rope, which unexpectedly gave the boll his freedom. The scene of confusion which ensued would be difficult to describe^ but happily no serious injuries marred the refined pleasures of the day." <* Juhf 3.— Yesterday the weather was bright and sultry during the morning ; indeed the solar rays were too oppressive for lengthened exposures to them, and the parched earth literally smoked with ihe intenseness of their heat Towards six o'clock in the evening, however, dark clouds began to obscure the sky, menacing an approaching storm, and ^^hich came on with uncommon violence about seven. The thunder was awfully t^ amend- ons, and nearly every house in the town was shaken to the base, and the lightning was suitably strong and vivid. This storm continued for some- thing better than an hour, during which we were gratified by the fall of two or three very copious showers of rain— a visitation that we had bng, very long been in want of. From eight to half-past nine the evening was tolerably fine, but at ten the storm returned with all its former violence, and which raged with more or less fury throughout the night, with the grateful accompaniment of moisture, which the thirsty earth greedily drank as it felL A delightful day succeeded the inclemencies of the night; vegetation appears completely renovated. The alteration has not been more sudden than great, and all the fashion and beauty of the place tliis morning in their various exercises enjoyed, as it were, the smiles of the new world, for every Uiing denoted health, and renewed energies and powers about them. A refreshing breeze from the sea still revivingly predominates." But few events in the history of Brighton occurred for about fourteen years after. In the summer of 1814, on the occasion of the downfall of Buonaparte, when universal re- joicings prevailed throughout the British empire, the inhabi* BRIGHTON. 95 tants of Brighton for once opened their purses as well as hearts in a public celebration of a most liberal and faultless character. Upwards of seoen thousand persons, men, women, and chil- dren, on the Prince Regent's birth-day, August 12, received an excellent dinner of roast-beef, plum-pudding, and ale, in the cricketing-ground, accompanied by flags, military bands, salutes of artillery, &c. &c., and an immense number of grati- fied spectators on foot, and nearly 300 caiTiages. The Rev. Dr. Carr presided, and delivered two remarkably appropriate graces. In the evening dancing took place, with excellent order and decorum. Several instances of private liberality occurred. Mr. Trotter, the manager of the theatre, exhibited it in his way by opening the greater part of his house gratis, when * Grod save the King,' &c. were sung in chorus. The stewards of the tables distributed to the female part of those entertained various trifling gifts for mementos, as snufi-boxes, rings, &c. &c.* O si sic omnia I From about the year 1824 to the present may be dated the wonderfully rapid improvements and enlargements of Brighton, which has now extended itself along the sea-shore for a space of three miles. The various public buildings and churches have also been erected within this period; the road to the west of the Steyne opened and widened, the bold sea-road and esplanade constructed, and, lastly, the chain pier. In the autumn of 1830, their present Majesties, King William and Queen Adelaide, made their first most welcome entry into Brighton, with a view of establishing here their annual winter residence. On such an auspicious event, the feelings of the inhabitants must have been pleasurably excited, and displayed in some external indications f • Their majesties found, on their * We deriye this account from Sicklemore*s Epitome of Brighton, 1815, a work which has been shamelessly pillaged verbatim by succeeding Guides. His account of the Pavilion, as it then was> has been copied twenty times over, with a few alterations not at all for the better, to make it look originaL Mr. Brayley is the only one who has acknowledged his having borrowed it. The « Family Topographer,*' vol. i. 1832, is still more absurd, having inserted an old tran- scribed account of the Pavilion as it existed about twenty-five years ago, since when it has been almost entirely rebuilt. f Not having been in Brighton at that time, we derive this from a very long and minute account in " Bruce's Brighton,*' 1831 . 1 96 COAST OF SUSSEX. arrival at Preston, a line of several hundred carriages extending to the new church, filled with well-dressed and gratulating spectators. Near the northern entrance of the pavilion, a temporary triumphal arch was constructed of timber, fifty feet high, with an aperture of twenty-five feet, covered to the summit with greens and flowers, decorated with many flags, and comprising three or four galleries, in which were ranged charity children and seamen in their holiday dresses. In the evening there was a splendid illumination of the whole town, the pier, and some vessels in the road, with decorations of flowers, music, and fire-works. Two days after, the school children of the town received a public dinner on the Steyne, accompanied by music, banners, &c., and an enormous con- course of spectators. Their Majesties visited the scene, and evinced the most satisfying afiability, and the sincerest pleasure. We cannot, for the life of us, help thinking, though we have no desire to oflend by mentioning it, that it would have been still more worthy of the magnitude of the place, and of the occa- sion, if all the more indigent population, old as well as young, had been entertained, as was the case on the former occasion. From this period to the present, no events of interest or plea- sure have occurred. Under the Reform Bill, Brighton will return two members to parliament. The first election had not taken place at the time this was written. The present winter is the second in which their Majesties and the court have resided in Brighton. It is due to the inhabitants to add, that they seem generally sensible of the credit and advantage which their town is thus obtaining. Should this work be thought worthy to live, after it fuzs appeared, we wish to close this part of it with good wishes towards the inhabitants in general, as well as towards the visitors of Brighton. May it live to see the benign Olive, interspersed with the Rose and Myrtle in their parterres, and the white flag of Peace floating on their Forum and Acropolis ; — to see their discords healed, and the social body more united, more liberal, and charitable, — it is unnecessary to add, more happy ! •!• V .« '■ J ■ .,: (» m •»!, I* • .I- •. - : Ml • •'.J ft » 1 . . • <•■ • J I 1 1 t* ;. .-i. il ,)) O'jf • .. « . AV . /.t ' 'f I J'.. 'w: '• •• ' < •« •>• i • • J ^- 1 1 » r: • I- ^ -^ '.i' .. . t • ,ir 1.'. .. 1 1, 1 'i . V ., vi- . '. 1 ^ ..r^ rj-. I .'«! ..»• ' V lio lot' i-i:?> *« f •!! r<>.M .. »i>';' Iff • 1 c\ ' . a. J • r • n** («. i. !r • .., I 5: If 'V 1. » i'' * '^l (.• •■ . ■)•' i A ■ • 'V •:■ i»V * .c • * i< .^ 'il. . ' t • j/M {■'. •f I .ip ■'• ] 1 *i 1. :'*>> {". ."« •%. t* « V . iL. )» • r \.»' ^ . • ' I * • . t I dU .• ;' ' VI ■ ii I • » i '"I ti ^ 1 . r. BBI6HT0N. 97 DESCRIPTION. It can scarcely be a necessary object of information to any reader to detail to him the exact situation of Brighton, or its distance from London, which, by the direct road through Croydon, Riegate (or by the new side cut, which leaves the latter to the right), and Cuckfield, is fifty-two miles. Its situation on the coast is usually considered as a suitable point for indicating the separation of the county into two great divisions; the lateral extents are, however, unequal, the line to the west, beyond Chichester, not much exceeding thirty miles, whilst the eastern boundary at Rye is upwards of fifty. Prior to entering upon our miscellaneous detail, we are induced to insert the lively sketch of a fanciful but very good-hearted Frenchman ; its hues are certainly of the brightest tint, but it is far better for a traveller, if the state of his own feelings and the reception he meets with from the inhabitants will allow him, to be willing to see all things in a strange country en cauUur de rosCy and to consider the manners of the in- habitants with kind and fair allowance, where that is required, than to set out in a spirit of querulous criticism and proud alienation, which can neither cause pleasure or benefit to himself or others. '* Brighton Eoad* — At four in the morning we had cast anchor in the road, for Brighton has no harbour. The custom-house sends off a boat to the vessds, which receives the passengers and their luggage; but it cannot reach the shore, on account of the shallowness of the water. The pas- sengers are obliged to be carried on the robust shoulders of the sailors, who, for this act of complaisance, ask only the trifle of three shillings a-head. We are in England, where the representative sign of the ex- istence of a French family for two or three dajrs represents nothing. " These first details will no doubt appear trifling, and particularly so, unless the reader will have the kindness to recollect that I am writing my journal, which contains the history of all ray impressions. One of the most lively of them all is the aspect of a new country ; and after having been absolutdy forced to travel from adventure to adventure, through the rest of Europe, I am now for the flrst time on the soil of England. '' The shore of Brixton is celebrated for its sea-bathing, which attracts every year the flrst company in the kingdom. It deserves this celebrity by the picturesque el^;ance of its charming views, to which no expression can do justice; especially, when the ray of the rising sun, glittering by H 98 COAST OF SdSSKX. d^rees on the face of the waters which are slowly iDmniiiated, strike hen and there with their light, long zones of the sea, which detach themsdves from its ohscnre extent like silver isles ; or else play among the sails of a little bark^ which floats inundated with brightness on a brilliant plane, among innumerable yesads which the lig^t has not yet touched. It is principally on the horizon that the mixture of departing darkness and advancing Hght is remarkable. All the obscurities descend, all the lights arise. The earth and the firmament seem to have exchanged attributes. In the air^ a sombre vapour is precipitated and diasolved; on the earth, a mild reflexion of light spreads, incessantly increasing in transparency and warmth; and the most distant line of the dark ocean rises re- splendent on the shades of the sky.* *' Brighton The extreme cleanliness of the towns in England is so wdl known, that on arriving at Brighton, I was astonished to find mysdf stiU forced to be astonished. Imagine to yourself an assemblage of deoorationa full of grace and lightness, such as the imagination would wish in m magical theatre and you will have some idea of our first station. Brig^ton^ however, presents no edifice worthy of remark, with the exception of the king's palace, which is constructed in the Oriental style, and probably on the plan of some building in India. There is not much harmony between this eastern style and the surrounding houses, built like pretty Italian pavilions under a northern sky ; but it is the mark of a power whieh stretches its sceptre over a part of the east, and draws firom it the prin- dpal dements of its prosperity. This incoherence, notwithstanding, has BO bod effect in a picture of iUusbns. Fairy Land is not sulgect to the rule of the unities. *' I continued my journey along a road without ruts, without jolting^ without any embarrassment, in a oonunodious degant vdiide, adorned with taste, drawn, or rather carried away by four beautiful horses, all alike, all with the same pace, who devoured the distance, champing bits of the most splendid polish, and starting and snorting under a harness of a rich and noUe simplidty. A coachman in livery drove them, and m handsome neat postilion urged them on. Every two leagues, postilion^ attentive, dvil, ndther impertinent nor in liquor, brought out fresh horses just like the first, which we could see striking the ground at a distance, as if eager and impatient for the career they were to go through. Though the distance to London is not great, no ddicate attentions which oould embellish it were omitted by the enchanters who led me along. Half-way, an offidous migor-domo introduced me into a magnificent saloon, in whidi were served all sorts of refireshments— limpid tea, which sparkled in china • frothy porter, which foamed in silver; and, on another table, chdoe, copious, varied dishes, watered with port. After this I set out again, and the eager coursers— but perhaps it is time to take breath, and to say, in more podtive terms, that England is the first country in the world for its horses, public carriages, and inns. The magnificent equipage I have just mentioned was the diligence, and the caravansera of the Arabian Nig^t^, a cafe on the high road. One mig^t easily, in the environs of London* comprehend the mistake of Don Quixote, who took inns for castles. " III fact, from Brighton to London, it is merely a street of twenty BKI6HTON. 99 leigaesy bordered with perks, gardens, smiUng ttams, pretty oonntry houses, disrming pavilions, covered from top to bottom with haDgings of roses^ and preceded by coorts or terraces shaded with cool bowers, under which dance young girls, whom Raphael mi^t regret not to have seen. Youth is charming every where, but in England it is ravishing. A plain girl under sixteen years of age is ahnost a rarity." — Charles Nodiers PrO" tnenadefrom Dieppe to the Mountains of Scotland, 1821. CLIMATE, SOIL, AIR, AND WATER. No observations we could form or compile on this subject would be equal to Dr. Relhan^ which of course apply, with undiminished effect, to the present state of Brighton and its vicinity. His pamphlet has lately been republished, with some clever notes, principally topographical, by a Mr. Michell, a medical gentleman of Brighton ; but we have felt called upon to abstain from borrowing any of the latter. ** The soil here, and over all the South Downs, is a chalk rock covered with earth of various kinds and depths in different places. ** The advantages resulting from this kind of soil are many and consi- derable. Chalky ground has little or no perspiration, and therefore must be extremdy h^thy. The fertility of it as to grain is indisputable, and is owing to the native bed of chalk, dug up by the farmers in the very field they restore it to the surface of again, for its own and their enrich- ment. The abundant crops which it produces, aided by this manure, are not so surprising as the alidlity of its continuing to do so for upwards of twenty years from a single act of manuring*. The grass of this soil is of the finest texture and of the sweetest taste, and, in this particular place, is interspersed, on the summits of the hills, with wild aromatic plants of dif- ferent sorts, which might be easily increased to the advantage of the pro- prietors and the public. ''To these^ perhaps with justice, may be ascribed the remarkably sweet flavour of the mutton of this place; and to the culture of these aromatics we certainly mi^t, and I hope soon shall, be indebted for a medicine used with the greatest success in Wales, Scotland, and Ireland, and much wanted in the neighbourhood of London^I mean goat's milk. The efik^ which arise from the use of this milk converted into whey, inriched with the aperient, saponaceous powers of these aromatic plants, are well known to the experienced practitioner ; and I am persuaded, that if tried as a pre- parative for sea-bathing, it would be found extremely serriceable. '' The ground of this soil does not crack, nor the grass bum so soon as * Pliny presumes it will last much longer : << Alteram genus albs cretae ar- gentaria est Petitur ex alto in centenos pedes, actis plenimque puteis, &c. HAc maxime Britannia utitur. Durat annis lxxx*** Hist. lib. xvii. cap. 8. — Rdhan* h2 100 COAST OF SUSSEX. in other soils. This is^ perhaps^ partly owing to the reflecting power of the clialk, partly to the declivity of the hills ; and yet in wet weather it sooner grows dry, so that you may immediately ride afler heavy rains, without the least inoonveniency. Hence it follows, that in this soil there can be no marshy, swampy ground, excepting in such places as border on rivers. Now, as the nearest river to this town is really distant six miles, and as this is a circumstance peculiar to itself, no other maritime town i^ England being equally remote from one, I may venture to affirm that the soil here is extremely dry, and that the air of this place must be propor- tionably pure. '' Lastly, in this soil it is remarkable that water for the necessary uses of life is difficult to be acquired, as it lies deep ; but, when obtained, it wdl rewards the laborious searcher, as it is excellent in its kind, and its sources almost inexhaustible. ''The advantage of exercise may be always enjoyed in fair weather r it is ever cool on the hills, and a shelter may be constantly found in the val- leys from excess of wind. *' In examining the ancient and modem descriptions of the Bale in Campania, where the Romans of wealth and quality^ during the greatness of that empire, retired for the sake of health and pleasure, when public exigencies did not require their attendance at Rome, and comparing them with those of Brighthdmston, lean perceive a strildng resemblance; and I am persuaded, that every literary person who will impartially consider this matter on Uie spot, will concur with me in opinion, giving, in some measure, the preference to our own fiaite, as exempt from the inconvenient steams of hot sulphureous baths, and the dangerous vicinity of Mount Vesuvius. '< To demonstrate that the tovm and neighbourhood of Brighthelmston are totally free from the vapours of running water, the more impure ones of stagnant, and the perhaps equally unhealthy ones issuing from trees, it is only necessary to observe^ that this tovm lies six miles distant from the nearest river ; diat there is no stagnant water near it ; and that the want of shelter by trees is the general complaint of those who consider this cir- cumstance, as a conveniency for cover and perspective, and not as a matter greatly contributing to health. '* The practice of sending persons labouring under pulmonic complaints to similar situations is by no means a recent one. For this purpose we find Galen making use of the stabics, situated between Naples and Surren- turn on the sea-shore: defended from easterly and northerly winds; hap^ pily exposed to the south, and the healthful influence of sea vapour. And to this situation, and the use of milk saturated with the juice of healing plants which grew abundantly in that soil, and may be made to do so in ours, he attributed his success in the cure of these disorders. BBI6HTON. 101 *' In the Biunmer months a seaF-hreeze prevails^ which rises and dies away with the sun^ with this ohservahle in it, that the wanner the day is, the more cooling and fresh is the breeze ; so that the almost suffocating heats which sometimes happen in the summer in this island^ and which are in- tderaUe even to the natives of Jamaica, are never felt here. Of the grate- ful enjoyment of a cooUng sea breeze the andeut poets we find had so pleasing an idea, that they celelnrated it as a principal ingredient in the happiness of the blessed in thdr Elyaum *. '' The same temperature prevails in winter, with respect to frost and snow; the former happens sufficiently often to add to the health of the inhabitants; it is sharp while it lasts, but its duration is short The tatter frequently falls during the winter season, but seldom continues on the ground above a day or two; the warmth from the sea, and the south west winds which prevail, soon dissolve it. The effects, therefore, pro- duced here either by heat or cold, are too transitory and too immaterial to be pernicious." CONTENTS OF THE SEA WATER. *' It appears, that in summer weather tolerably dry, there are, in every pint of sea water here, at least five drachms and fifteen grains of pure de- fecated salt, about five of bittern, or a decomposed earth attracting hu- midity from the air, and six grains of a white calcarious earth. That tlus proportion of dean contents bdng nearly a twenty-third of the whole, is as great, or perhaps greater, than is to be found in the sea water of any other port in England -, and must be owing to its peculiar distance from rivers^ it bdng furdier from such, I apprehend, than any one sea-port town in England. And that the existence of bitumen, nitre, &c. in sea water^ pure and unadulterated, is fairly contradicted by this evaporation and separation. *^ Under these inviting drcumstances it is necessary only to add, that the bay here is open and exposed to the sea; free from ooze of its own pro- dudng, and not subject to any filth brought from ndghbouring sands or shores; and that the beach is a dean gravd and sand, with a gradual descent" We had at first intended to have gratified the reader with a few extracts from the work of Dr. Harwood, on ** the Curative Influence of the Southern Coast of England f/* which has a more especial reference to the vicinity of Hastings. On further reflection, however, we considered that if we once entered this field of observation, consistency would require an extended and desultory track to be pursued, for which we have neither * Horn. Odyss. iv. 567, 568- Find. Olym. ii. f Colbum, 1828 Price, we believe, 8 or 9 shillings. It is necessary to add, that we have not the remotest knowledge of this gentleman* lOS COAST OF SUSSEX. ability nor space ; we therefore refer all visitors to the work itself, with our best wishes, and the satisfactory information, that there is absolutely no disease whatever, however arising, or protracted, in either sear, in which the Doctor does not contemplate the possibility of a cure, from the united effects of sea air, warm or cold bathing, and mineral waters. POPULATION. In 1801, the population of Brighton was not quite 8000; in 1811, it was 18,000 ; in 1821, it had increased to 24,000; and in 1831, to 40,000, besides upwards of 1000 included in the adjoining parish of Hove. The number of houses at the latter survey was 8000, a proportion to the inhabitants far greater than in London and other large towns, the obvious reason for which is that about one-third are constantly occupied by visitors. The average number of the latter, with slight fluctuations, from the 1st of May to the 1st of February, is from 20 to ^,000. The total number of persons who visit Brighton, for any space of time not less than a week, during the year, is supposed to be at least 100,000: perhaps if a less period of stay were admitted this number would be doubled or nearly trebled ; but these two latter calculations rest on less certain grounds. GENERAL APPEARANCE. The sea line of houses in Brighton now extends from the eastern extremity of Kemp Town, to Adelaide-terrace, beyond the western esplanade, full three miles ; a range of piles of buildings, we suppose, alone to be equalled at St. Fetersburgh. Nearly in the centre, but rather inclining towards the west, is the opening of the Steyne, from whence a noble level extends into the country, flanked about the centre of the Steyne, on the west side, by the Favilion, and terminated by the elegant pinnacled tower of the new church, with a prospect of the Downs at a short distance behind it. This fine expanse is equally conducive to health and pleasure. A little before BRIGHTON. 103 we reach the Pavilion, the old North-street, which is in fact the High-street of Brighton, runs up a hill, eventually at- taining the height of 150 feet, at the summit of which is the old church; and on the opposite side of the Steyne, St. James's-street rises with a slighter elevation towards Kemp Town ; this again may be termed the local Bond or Regent- atreet This outline must suffice for the present: — ^in a few pages we shall present the reader with a sufficiently minute description in detached parts. THE OLD CHURCH, ST. NICHOLAS'S, Which stands on the top of the hill, to which part North-street gradually rises to the height before mentioned above low water mark, is an aged and by no means handsome edifice, scarcely equal to the average, even in the small towns of this vicinity, and though not unsuitable to the rude beginnings of Brighton, possessing little affinity to its present state. We are very happy to be able to add, that some liberal, though by no means complete, repairs have been effected by the present church- wardens (189^) ; otherwise, at any time within the preceding ten years, we should have had a sad account to give of its unsuitable appearance. The principal improvements are the insertion of neat square-topped Gothic windows in place of a kind of sash ones, with shutters: some painting and cleaning, &c* The ugly tower, and a fiightful and indescribably odd erection of brick, at the north-west angle, still cry out for alteration. The church has three long and low aisles, a chancel, and small south chancel, and a tower barely 40 feet high. In the interior the aisles are separated by five arches on each side, of the fifteenth century, with octagonal pillars. Some ancient texts over them have lately been restored in a happy style with ornamented borders. At the entrance of the chancel is a handsome wood screen, also of the Tudor lera, and formerly supporting the rood loft. There are galleries in every direction, painted white, with benefactions inscribed on 104 COAST OF SUSSEX. those at the east and west end. The pews of deal are still unpainted, and have a mean effect ; the pulpit also is not hand- somely fitted up. The chancel is much neater, being pewed with oak, with a pretty though minute altar-piece of the Ionic order, with white and gold fluted columns, the decalogue, Sec The interior has however a much more neat and cheerful ap- pearance than formerly, and the walls have been coloured in an appropriate style. By means of the extensive galleries, it is said .to be capable of containing 1400 persons, and is always crowded. The side aisles are very narrow, that on the north side especially, which does not exceed nine feet in width. In various parts are numerous monuments, some of which are interesting. The organ is a very good one. Of the rude old font in this church we could say nothing which has not been advanced a hundred times before, and thereforfs do not enlarge on the subject. It is either of SaxcHi date, or of an age little posterior to the Conquest, and there is a tradition which asserts it to have been brought from Nor- mandy. Around the circular edge are five or six rough but bold groups, representing the Last Supper ; also kings, monks, nuns, on land and in boats, &c. all which will speak for them- selves to the spectator. The window at the east end is in the sh/le of the fourteenth century, but evidently not 100 years old ; whether it is a correct restoration or no, we are unable to tell : the general style of the church is of the fifteenth century. The tower contains eight bells, of very harmonious tone, but inconsiderable size, the tenor, which is in the key of F, only weighing 16 cwt. : this is the only peal which this great town can boast of, and there is here neither clock or chimes *. The bells were cast by a Mr. Rubhall, a native of Brighton, at his foundery in Bristol, in 1777. On the tower is a short spiral obelisk of wood, with a large broad arrow for a vane, which • The latter, cither at the church, or Town-hall, as in the Royal Exchange m London, would form a very pleasing addition to the town, delighting grown children as well as young ones, as they do in Flanders. " Soon yon sweet chimes the appointed hour will tell, For here, to music, times moves merrily." — SouTHEy. BRIGHTON. 105 when freshly gilt, as has lately been done, has a very smart appearance. Above, the royal standard or the union Jack is displayed when the Pavilion is occupied, as is also the case at the New Church. In the churchyard is part of the shaft of a cross^ raised on four or five steps, to which we may, not improbably, assign as early a date as the thirteenth century. The view from this spot, over the expanse of densely crowded houses and the sea, is magnificent : the Town-hall, from hence alone, appears as a pile, handsome and commanding. The churchyard has been once or twice enlarged, and a new one was consecrated on the opposite side of the road, leading out of Church-street, in 1826. Still, the whole appears scanty when the enormous population is taken into account, and the older one might be bettex dis- used, except in the case of family burial-places. We have no other motive than a good one in urging any generous indi^ vidual to interest himself in improving the decency of some of the least conspicuous parts ; as it is, they are painful to the spectator, and certainly not creditable to the place. There are a great variety of inscriptions, some of which may interest the passenger. The history of the celebrated Phoebe Hassell, the daring heroine who lived from 1718 to 1821, and had served in disguise as a soldier, is given at length. She received a pension from the kindness of George IV., who i$ said to have offered her a guinea a-week, which she declined, saying half that sum was as much as she should want or use. A rare instance of such a feeling. We subjoin Tettersell's epitaph, which has l>een lately recut on a blue raised slab near the chancel door. ''Captain Nicolas TetteraeUy throygh whoae prvdence, yalovr, andloyalty^ Charles the lid. King of England, after he had escaped the swords of his merciless rebels, and his forces reoeiyed a fatal oyerthrow at Worcester, September the 3d, 1651, was faithfully preseryed and conveyed to France -departed this life the S6th day of Jyly, 1674." ** Within this marble monvment doth Ue Approved faith, honovr, and loyalty: In this cold c]ay he hath now ta'en yp his station. Who once preserved the chyrcfa, the crowne, and nation : ' 106 COAST OF SUSSEX. When Charles the Gicate was nothing bn m brntb. This Taliant hero stept 'tween him and death ; Vsvipen' tfareata^ nor tyrant rebeTs firowne^ Covld not affirig^t his dyty to the crowne ; Which glorioYB act of his for chTrch and stat^ Ei^t Princes in one day, did gratvkte— \ Phrfessing all to him in debt to bee. As aU the world are to his memory. ' Since earth ooTld not reward the worth him giveD, He now reoeiyes it firom the King of Hearen. In the same chest one jewel more you have, . The partner of his virtves, bed, and grsTe." In another part is a lofty and handsome monument for Mrs. Crouch, an actress, said to have been of *^ wonderful^ beauty, erected by Mr. Michael Kelly ; it states, in conclusion, that '* this was erected by him whom she esteemed the most faith- ful of her friends.'* This had far better have been spared, as it is well known their connexion was adulterous. There were extenuating circumstances in her case ; she had a brutal hus- band, and we should look with mercy and charitable hope both i on departed and living frailty ; still vice should never be pub- lickly acknowledged and blazoned, least of all here *. Dr. Carr, now Bishop of Worcester, and late of Chichester, was Vicar of Brighton for about thirty years, and very popular for his affability and kind-heartedness. The present vicar is the Rev. H. M. Wagner, M. A. ; the curate, the Rev. C. W. Xiangden, B. A. * Seyend dramadc reminiecenoes have been published lately, and thoce of Michael, or as he terms himself, AGck. Kelly, (best known by the music of the ** Forty Thieves,*') display by Isrthe least indieations of goodness of heart of any. (0*Keefe*sor Dibdin's are pleasing contrasts.) One instance nmy suffice : — Mr. Kelly was studying music tit some conservatorio in Italy, when he heard his mother was dying; « he could have wished to have gone to see her, hut he had formed some engagements for the next few months, and, of cour9e» it was therefore impossible.** Poor lovely Anna Maria Crouch, if this Ivas her best friend ! I A favourable contrast of virtue ss well as grscefulness, ifi a young member of an employment attended with dangers, presents itself in the following epitaph on a youthful actress, a Miss Campion, written by a nobleman, and recorded in Lyson's History of Buddngbsmshireyat Chesham, in that county; which we quote with great satisfaction, as exhibiting another side of the picture. To doubt the purity of his feelings would be base and execrable. « Requiescit hie pars mortalis Mm Cn. obiit 19 Mail Ao 1700. JBtatis 19. Quod supcrest ex altera parte quasre. ** Formam egregiam ct miris illecebris omatam virtutes animi superirunt : BRIGHTON* 107 THE NEW CHURCH, ST, PETER'S, Erected at the Borth end of the town, near the junction of the routes from London and Lewes, in the year 1886, is a fine and beautiful gothic structure, and one of the most pleasing modem specimens in England within the last twenty years* The expense was about £20,000, for which an edifice of ample dimendons has been constructed, with a sufficient display of solid and well arranged ornaments, forming in every light fiom which it can be viewed, an agreeable coup d*ml. The architect was Mr.fiarry; and thestyleisthatof theconclusionof thefour* teenth century, emerging into the style of the succeeding. The church consists of a lofty nave and two side aisles, upwards oi one hundred feet in length, the centre projecting in a semi- octagonal sweep, ornamented with three handsome windows, with ramified tracery : there are parapets and good pinnacles and buttresses throughout ; the parapet of the centre aisle is waved and pierced with quatrefoils, and the pinnacles at plebeiam genu8» sed honestum nobOitate momm deconvit*. Supm aetateoi BBgax; supra sortem pnesertiin egenis benigna; inter scenicos ludos, in quibus aliqiiamdiu versata est, verecunda et interoerata. Post quatuor mensium lan- gnortun, a febri hectidi oonepta, intempestiTam mortem forti pectose et Chiistiani pietate subivit Humanitate pneditis, si quid mentem mortalia tang^tfy fiebilis; amids beu flebilior: dilectissimis reliquiis sacrum lapidem bunc poni curavit, G.D.D.** (Georgius Dux Deronis.) The foUowing will give some idea of the purport, but the beauty of the original language cannot be translated. « Here rests the mortal part of Mary Camj^on, who died the 19th of May, in the year 1706> of her age 19 :— ** Her form, beautiful, and ornamented with ' wonderful* attractions, was excelled by the virtues of her mind : her origin was humble, but she adorned it, and rendered it honourable, by the nobility of her manners. Wise beyond her years ; remarkably, and beyond her condition, kind to the needy : amidst the scenic representations, in which she was sometime engaged, modest and unspotted. Cut off, after an illness of four months, by a hectic fever, she endured her untimely death with an intrepid mind, and with Christian piety. By those endowed with humanity (if the mind is open to human sympathy) to be lamented ; by her friends, alas I still more to be sorrowed for : to her most beloved remains this stone is placed as sacred by George Duke of Devonshire." * So punctuated in the original. f " Sunt lachryms rerum, et mentem mortalia tangunt" — Via. 108 COAST OF SUSSEX. either extremity are larger and loftier than the intermediate ones. At the west end is a neat tower, with deep belfrej win- dows, some fret-work, and four tall pinnacles; also four handsome Clock-faces. On three of its sides is a lofty and grand projecting porch or vestibule, of a novel design, with beautiful ogee arches and clustered pillars, and turret-like spiral pinnacles at the angles. The lower part of this tower forms a convenient vestibule or hall, with a coved ceiling, forty feet high, and a double staircase to the galleries. In the interior, the nave is nearly fifty feet high, and the aisles thirty, separated on each side by five arches, resting on lofty and light columns, the centre moulding piercing the capital, and rising to the spring of the roof, which is vaulted throughout, in imitation of stone, producing a very happy appearance. The whole is very appropriately fitted up ; the pews of the colour of oak, and the fronts of the galleries of stone. At the east end is a neat stone altar screen of fret-work, and at the opposite end a hand*- some gallery, arched, in imitation of stone, above which is a second of oak, containing the organ, an instrument of sufficient power, with a clear and sweet tone, and a fine swell. This church was built to accommodate eighteen hundred per- sons, but will conveniently hold two thousand, a considerable number of whom, as at the old church, are free; and it is very fully attended. The present clergyman is the Rev. T. Cooke, M, A., a practical and judicious preacher. The military in the town attend this church ; if there are two bodies, on alternate Sundays. The tower contains one deep toned bell for the hours, and two small musical ones for the quarters; but the absence of a good ring of bells here is to be regretted. Around the church is a large space, well railed in, laid out as a lawn or shrubbery, and most abundantly scented with the pleasing fragrance of mignionette in the summer and autumn. THE CHAPEL ROYAL, Erected in Prince's Place in 1793, as the first Chapel of Ease, has the crest of the Prince of Wales, who contributed largely I BRIGHTON. 109 to it, carved on the west side. It is a square building, capable of holding one thousand persons, with a neat interior, surround- ing galleries, and a small organ. The lower short supports are ugly; but the upper range of pillars, in imitation of iSienna marble, and the Corinthian capitals of verdahtiquCy are very good. The altar had formerly a copy oiMengs* beautiful picture at All Souls, Oxford, Our Saviour appearing to Mary in the garden, or the Noli me Ta?igere (a subject also well treated by Annibale Caracci), which has been removed to the vestry, to make room for the Decalogue : a pity, raethinks, as some means might have been contrived for including both. The present clergyman is the Rev. J. Urquart, M. A. ST. JAMES'S CHAPEL, The second established, is a very plain building, containing 850 persons, with a good organ. Clergyman, the Rev. D. Maitland, M. A. TRINITY CHAPEL, In Ship-street, has an indifferent Doric portico, and a very heavy turret ; but the interior is handsome, with a neat dome on the roof, and a fine organ. It will contain 850 persons.— Clergyman, the Rev. Robert Anderson, B.D. ST. MARY'S CHAPEL Has a remarkably grand portico of four fluted columns in the boldest style of Athenian, or almost of Agrigentine Doric^ with corresponding antse and a massive pediment; but the space between the pillars and the wall, viewed laterally, is much too narrow, and the sides are heavy. The interior is hand- some, with an organ, and will contain 950 persons. There iff no turret or cupola at this chapel, which, it was supposed, would, as an elevation on the roof, have been out of keeping. We would suggest a detached tower or campanile. '^CleTgy-' man, the Rev. H. V. Elliot, M. A. 110 COAST PF SUSSEX. ST. GEORGETS CHAPEL, The most spiudous chapd of ease, situated near the Hospital and Kemp town, will contain 1200 persons. We should ob- serve^ that all of them have a certain number of firee seats, and are well attended. The interior here is remarkably plain ; but the arched roof of the centre aisle, supported by Ionic pillars from the galleries, which form a sweep at the west end, has a pleasing appearance. The organ is a good one. The exterior is heavy : its steeple is said to be 100 feet high, but is plain and deteriorated by Tuscan columns, the most inappn^riate order for such an erection, where Corinthian ridiness or Ionic elegance is required.— Clergyman, the Rev. J. S. M. Ander- son, M.A. flrr. MARGARETS CHAPEL, At the west end of the town, in Cannon-place, is of a square form, with a large flat cupola on the roof. The Ionic portico is rather meagre, though well relieved by its sides. Above is a turret in humble, but not altogether unpleasing imitation of the Lantern ofDemoHhenes: whilst its columns are of that fanciful Corinthian of which Stuart found an example at the Tower of the WindSy of simple lotus leaves, without the acan- thus. The interior is simple and grand, with a double tier of columns, and galleries on three sides, and a large recess for the pulpit, above the altar, on the fourth. It has an organ, and will contmn 1000 persons. — Clergyman, the Rev. J. Roper, M.A. ST. ANDREWS CHAPEL, Near Brunswick-square, and out of the limits of Brighton, in the parish of Hove, has a neat though low turret. The in- terior is smartly decorated, with a small organ, and will con- tain 600 persons.— Clergyman, the Rev. Dr. Everard. I p BRIGHTON. Ill The oldest is *^ Union^treet^ — Independents ; it has a long and solid Doric front, a spacious interior, and an organ. *' West- leyan,'' Dorset-gardens, a large plain building. *< Hunting- donian,**^ North-street, do. " Hanover" — Independent, Church- street, a moderate sized building, cemented, with a large general burying ground, most beautifully laid out with flowers and shrubs. *^ Bethesda,"^ Independent, in do., has a rich, but rather heavy Erecthean Ionic front, and an organ. *^ Pro- vidence,'' in do. '* Salem"" — Baptists, Bondnstreet. " Friends,** Ship-street. '^ Unitarian,'' New-road, has a light and el^;ant fluted Athenian Doric portico, <* Huntingdonian,'' Lon« don-road, a neat building. <' Bethel," West-street, with a reference to fishermen. ** Zion," Upper Bedford-street. *'Ebe« nezer," Baptists, Richmond-hill ; and two or three very small or temporary ones. Several of these have schools and charities connected with them. The '< Roman Catholic Chapel" has hitherto been a very humble and crowded edifice in High-street ; a new one is now erecting near Kemp Town; the interior will be airy, but its external appearance is too low, and the Corinthian pilasters are disproportionately heavy. The ^^ Jews' Synagogue" is a plain building in Devonshire- place, New Steyne. In speaking of the erection and expense of this building, we unavoidably trench on a subject with which, as a visitor, we have personally no business whatever ; and in pursuing it, we are fully aware of the obloquy always incurred by merging, in the least, even with the most undeniably good intentions, in the disputes of others : we allude to the public expenditure of Brighton during the last few years, in which upwards of 100,000/. has been laid out in works of a general character, 80,0002. of which has been bestowed on the edifice now in question. The less we say, therefore, the better ; whilst we 112 COAST OF SUSSEX. desire that little to be after the honest lierring-bone fashion of the Manks*. It is impossible, too, in the chequered inquiry into human motives, to ascertain how far, and in what in- stances, the feeling on either side has been conscientious or in- vidious. The best will be to " make the best'^ of it, and, as most likely neither party will deny that there are both " faults'* and '^ much to be said'' on both sides, to try and unite, as far as they may, to settle the matter quietly and for the general good ; for the honour and credit of their town in the eyes of visitors, and for their own greater prosperity and harmony. We find it very difficult to speak of this building as a whole, because some parts are decidedly handsome and noble, others as certainly bad ; but we fear that, on the summary, the balance will decline on the side of condemnation. Its principal &ult is its huge and rambling character ; it is at least twice as large as it need have been. The three porticoes, though grand, are unquestionably not required ; and the face towards the sea, where a fine colonnade would have formed a striking and beautiful object in the prospect of the town, is left blank and plain. The dimensions of the edifice are said to be 144 feet by 113. On the other hand, the double porticoes, com- posed of four fluted Doric columns below, and four Ionic above, with proper entablatures and a pediment, appear to us stately and noble; and though we hear that architects have sneered at them, we can see no possible grounds for their hard criticism. Doubtless the lower colonnade has not the project- ing breadth of that at the west end of St. PauFs, but then the nature of the front did not require it. The angles of the upper story and of the wings below have triple antse, with very neat capitals; but the flanking walls between the porticoes are heavy and ugly, sparingly ornamented in the Erecthean style with the honeysuckle, &c., with very bad windows. In spite of a sure condemnation of our opinion, we should be glad to see a dome, or cupola, or any thing, to break the exten^ve square roof of this large building. There is a bell from the • « Ye shall administer justice between man and man, as evenly as the bone of the herring lies between the two sides.*'— Oa^ApreMTt&eeT to the Deemsters or Judges in the Isle of Man, BRIGHTON. 113 old TowD Hall, which we suppose will be put up, with a clock. £ntering at the north side, the staircase is supported by tall antae, which, if there be any rule for this kind of support, must be outrageously out of proportion — we should think not less than fifteen diameters or diagonals ^ yet the effect is by no means bad. Above is a corridor, with a fine double range of Corinthian pillars, and a flat cove or dome, like the sections of the roof in St. Paulas Cathedral. Nothing can be said against the general effect of this part. The railing of the staircase is a very poor and meagre design : it should have been of brass or handsome iron-work lightly painted and gilt. In the lower story are various oflices for the magistrates, commissioners, directors of the poor, &c., and underneath, dungeons for tem- porary confinement, said to be dreary enough, and, if ever to be used, not particularly appropriate to the present day. The great room below is a market On the second story is a very capacious room for the petty sessions, large enough for the county assizes, an object partly contemplated when it was erected; some smaller rooms, for the magistrates^ private sittings, handsomely fitted up ; and a room for the commis- sioners beyond, towards the south, with galleries on each side on fluted columns, which, though handsome, is said to be very inconvenient. The third story has in the centre the assembly room, which may be pronounced, on the whole, to be hand- some, though the Corinthian pilasters might have been lighter, and their capitals are after a most eccentric fashion, having only their lower parts foliated, which may remind the spectator of a gentleman in full dress, — without his coat. The ceiling is massive' and flat, with sunk panels handsomely decorated. From the balcony at the east end is a view of the town and sea in a striking and novel light, which alone will repay the visitor for his ascent. l&ofial ipabilion. EXTERIOR. As we have the grateful privilege of introducing our readers to the interior beauties of this grand and elegant palace, we shall the less dwell on its exterior, because it is known not only by personal observation to the visitors of Brighton, but by some species of description or delineation to almost all the inhabitants of the kingdom ; yet we must apprise them tliat the generality of views so far come shortof a just appreciation, that they may almost be termed, by comparison at least, caricatures. It is a building of great length, and of a depth not clearly discernible except in the inside. The garden-front*, facing the Steyne, consists, in effect, of three pavilions, connected by two ranges of building ; the centre has the large bulbous-shaped dome, 80 much resembling those of the churches in the Kremlin at Moscow, and flanked by minarets, consisting of open cupolas on tali pillars. The external pavilions have large pagoda spires, tapering to a point from a broad base, and very com- manding in their appearance ; these have also flanking mina- rets, and there are two smaller domes on each of the connecting wings. The height of the centre dome is 130 feet; dn front is a semi-circular colonnade, and a long flat one to each of the farther pavilions. The general aspect of this front is rather Indian or Persian than Chinese ; when examined in detail, it will be found very beautiful. The opposite, or western front of the Pavilion, is nearly similar, but has a centre projecting rather more in advance, with a neat square portico, supported by pillars. * See vignette on title-page. AOYAL PAVILION. Il5 INTERIOR. Having been favoured by Sir Herbert Taylor with an ex- press permission to take a full survey of the interior of this magnificent palace, and having received every civility and assistance in her power from the lady in charge of the same, Miss Lovatt, we can only regret that scarcely any degree of time, taste, or opportunity will do justice to the various attrac- tions and ornaments of so unique and beautiful a place ; the reader must, therefore, be content with that modicum of in- formation which it is in our power to afford him, whilst we assure him, however, that it has been a work of zeal, and executed con amore. We know, for we have personally met with it as well as read of it, that an idea has been not sparingly disseminated of the Pavilion^s being characterized by frivolity or gaudiness — a " Fancy ,^ or a " Folly," in which costliness is more eminent than taste or beauty. We do not dissemble this circumstance ; on the contrary, we draw it forward boldly, because we can have the pleasure of offering it the most decided contradiction ; and, if the reader will believe us to speak candidly, we assure him, in simple terms, that it is no such thing. The Pavilion is enriched with the most magnificent ornaments and the gayest and most splendid colours ; yet all is in keeping, and well relieved. There is positively nothing glaring or gaudy, and the person who would quarrel with its richness might as reasonably do so with the flowers of the parterre—the lively carnation or painted tulip. It is true that the architectural taste of some may be averse to the adoption of the Chinese and Oriental style, yet by us, who have ** some little turn that way," it has been deemed on inspection to possess capabilities of beauty not inferior to the graceful Ionic, stately Corinthian, or elaborate florid Gothic. And whilst the King of Saxony has his Japanese Palace^ the Emperor of Austria his Favorita^ and he of Russia his fanciful palaces of heterogeneous outline, whilst the Sovereign of England has in addition the noble and regular Gothic pile of Windsor, and the Roman palaces of 1 ^ 116 COAST OF SUSSRX. London, we do not see why, if only for the sake of variety, he should not have his Oriental Marine Pavilion. It also recalls to us one branch of that mighty continental influence which we wield, it may be hoped and trusted for the general hap- piness and benefit. The King of England is almost ^^ defacUT King of India ; and, therefore, may we not say without fan- ciful exaggeration, that an eastern palace, placed on the shores of that element by the ancient and continual sovereignty of which England wields such a powerful sceptre, presents an idea to the mind, full, interesting, and effective. ** India mittit ebur, molles sua thura SabcL tibi aerviet ultima Thule; Te que sibi generum Tethys emat omnibufi undis.' Fir, We should inform the reader, in the first place, that within the width of the Pavilion there are two complete and separate lines of rooms, running from south to north, about 300 feet. We shall conduct him first through the left or west range, as being the simplest, though sufiiciently handsome, reserving the most magnificent apartments to conclude with. Previously we may mention the principal KITCHEX, which has very much the appearance of a college one, but is much more neat, and all the furniture is in the most brilliant state of polish. The apartment is square, lighted from the roof, which is supported by four iron columns in the form of palm trees, with a Chinese lantern hanging at each. Entering the principal series, and passing through the stately and most beautiful dining-room, to which we shall presently return, we come to the CHINESE GALLERY, lezfeet long, and 17 wide. This room, of immense length, must display its various local ornaments to much greater advantage in the evening than by daylight, when it is rather dark, owing to its being principally lighted from the roof, and partially divided into separate com- ROYAL PAVILION. 117 partments; at the former time, it must have a striking and romantic effect. The divisional compartments are five in number, which have opened doors of painted glass, and trellis- work in imitation of bamboo. The walls throughout are of a dark pink or lilac, termed peach-blossom, with foliage and birds, painted in a subdued style of pale blue, which produces a very good combination. At the north and south ends are double staircases of iron; the fronts of the steps are of open work, giving them a very airy appearance, and the railings are painted in imitation of bamboo; the stiurs are inlaid, as it were, with gray cloth, and have some brass ornaments : above are three windows, containing whole length Chinese figures, on pedestals, and in the ceilings a painted sky-light, with various Chinese designs, as the dragons, styled ** imperial,*" with five claws^ and the royal bird, the ^^ Fum.^ These staircases lead .to a gallery over the other three compartments, with bed-rooms on each side. The centre of the lower gallery has its roof of equal height with those at the ends, formed by opening a square through the upper floor, which is surrounded by rails, but the deception is so well executed that it appears as one room. It is to this alternate recurrence of compartments rather low and dim with lofty and illuminated ones, which imparts to the gallery a picturesque appearance, which must be greatly enhanced in the evening by the light of the painted lanterns. In the middle ceiling is a square light, 22 feet by 1 1, which displays the Deity of Thunder of the Chinese Mythology, flying, and surrounded by a circle of " drums ;^ in his left hand he appears to hold by a chain the lantern which is sus- pended from the roof, and in his right is a mace or sceptre, wherewith to strike the drums and produce the thunder. His Chinese thundership is a very remarkably ugly demon— poor Vulcan would have been an Adonis in comparison. The general furniture of the gallery is dther really, or an imitation of, oriental. The centre chimney-piece resembles bamboo, whilst the open cabinets on the opposite side are actually of that material, covered with fine yellow marble slabs. There are various painted lanterns, Chinese cabinets, 1 18 COAST OF SUSSEX. with rare China vases and figures ; and the carpet, of English manufacture, is handsome and appropriate. We must not omit to mention a great number of chairs and couches of ivory variegated with black, the history of which we do not know, but they are abundantly curious. At the outset, however, we deem it right to apprise the reader that we have not by any means attempted to give him a fair description of all the multiplied and separate ornaments of the various apartments ; in fact, we considered that it would derogate from the detail of their grand and principal embellishments and proportions. Something must be left to his imagination ; and should he discover many lesser beauties on which to dwell, unnoticed by us, he must not suppose that we did not see or admire them. Beyond the gallery, to the north, are several smaller and more domestic apartments, which the visitor is allowed to see ; but we do not dwell on them ; they are generally characterised by neatness and consistency : among them is the sleeping room of his late Majesty George IV., which is not luxurious ; and near it are baths supplied from the sea. Into the centre of the gallery opens the ENTRANCE HALL, which leads out of a neat vestibule adjoining the western portico, containing a polished brass stove. The hall is a square apartment, the walls pale green, painted in fresco, in a very subdued style. At the entrance, which slopes into the vestibule with a tented roofed recess, are two oriental columns, and above, a long horizontal sky-light of green and white ; the chimney-piece is of white marble, and there are four Chinese lamps. This room seems in some measure designed as a quiet contrast, or introduction, to the more splendid apartments. THE BREAKFAST ROOM is a pretty summer apartment of considerable length, its roof supported by two bamboo pillars with trellis work. The walls are crimson japan, ornamented with a number of small Chinese paintings, all tending to a light blue colour. In a recess is a magnificent sideboard of extensive dimensions. We now return to the principal suite of State Apartments, KOYAL PAVILION. 119 and croter a range said to be unparalleled in Europe. The first is that exquisite structure THE DINING OR BANQUETING ROOM. SQffeet long, 43 wide, and 45 high. Popular opinion has given the supren^e rank' to the music room, placing this in the second rank : we cannot agree in the decision ; splendid as we allow the other to be, there is some- thing more than beauty or grandeur in this ; it is transcendantly graceful and even lovely: it is not merely oriental, still less barbaric, richness ; it is a quiet and chaste beauty, which is almost intellectual. When we add summarily that the cotip d*ml of this room is that of walls of mother-of-pearl, with historic groups in rich enamels, varied by candelabra, like blue lapis lazuli, surmounted by white glass lilies*, and immense * We imagine the beautiful forms of lilies in the candelabra and lustres to be the nelumbiumy a flower which differs from the lotus, the latter being a plant or tree. Of these and some other Chinese flowers and shrubs we extract an account from the work of Dr. Clarke Abel, F.L.S.^ naturalist to Lord Amherst's embassy^ a gentleman whom we had once the pleasure of knowing. ** The Chinese appeared to have confined their attempts at ornament to their yards, which contained plants of various species. The el^;ant Ipo- maca quamodet, trained on small frames of trellis work, was from its frequent culture obviously a favourite. The Begonia Evansiana, larger Straemia Indica, Nerium oUander, Lydmis coronata^ and Tradescantia cristata were abundantly cultivated in pots, together with a spedes of Diandla with purple flowers, of Hibiscus, and of Plumbago; which, I could not determine. But, cultivated and prized above all others, appeared the Nehmbium speciosum the Lien^wha of the Chinese. This splendid flower, celebrated for its beauty by the Chinese poets, and ranked for its virtues among the plants whidi, according to Chinese theology, enter into the beverage of immortality, flourished in the greatest vigour in the gardens of Tung-Chow. It wsb raised in capadous vases of water, con- taining gold and silver fish, supported on stands a few feet firom the ground. These were surrounded by steps of different devation, supporting other plants mingled with artifidal rocks, representing a hilly country, and covered with diminutive houses, pagodas, and gardens. In this situation the Ndumbium was certainly an object of exceeding beauty. Its tulip- like blossoms of many petals tinted with the most delicate pink, hung over its fan-like leaves, fioated on the surface of the water, or rising on long footstalks of unequal height, bent them into d^;ant curves, and shaded with graceful festoons the plant beneath. *^ The Ndumbium is used by the Chinese to decorate lakes and other ornamental water, and to give a charm and productiveness to marshes 120 COAST OP 8USSRX. chandeliers of Dumerous flowers in silvery glass, we can^ per- haps, afford some faint idea of the effect it is calculated to produce. It is a palace for Diana, or some lovely and bene- ficent fairy who is favourable to virtue. We scarcely know where to begin a more sober description, but may as well state, in the first instance, that the ceiling has a spacious and lofty dome, nearly occupied by a piunted Flan- tain tree, from which hangs the principal lustre, which is thirty feet from top to bottom. The rise of the dome i» handsomely scaled with whitish green and gold, and rests on four elliptical arches, with golden columns; beneath is a painted and gilt cornice, with bells ; the oblong painted windows, each in five divisions, under the dome, resemble, as we conceive, the Persian style, — circles in lozenges, blue, with gold centres and radiated edges, in some degree resembling the convolvulus flower. The north and south sides have recesses with tented roofs, looped up with scarlet and gold. The comer lustres are sustained by magnificent birds, with large feathered tails. The two white marble chimney-pieces have respectively a thermo- meter and time^piece, one of which imitates a sun-flower, and the other has very finely executed groups of figures. The side-boards, as appropriate to a dining-room, are of rich rose- wood, ornamented with or-molu and Chinese emblems. The walls of the room, which are twenty-three feet high to the cornice, constitute that exquisite series of ornaments which we have before alluded to. They form eleven compartments of large size, three of them on the east side much more con- siderable than the rest; they are all bordered with trellis- work of scarlet and gold, and this again is surrounded by blue and silver paper, imitating enamel. Besides these, there are several narrow ones, containing single figures, and also Chinese standards, hung with banners and pennons, and guarded at the otherwise unsightly and barren. Near Yuen- Ming- Yuen, and under the walls of Pekin, I saw it covering with pink and yellow blossoms large tracts of land, and could sympathise with the enthusiasm of the Chinese bards, who have sung of the delight of moonlight excursions on rivers covered with the flowering Lien-wha."— il^^fj Amher^fs Embassy to China. 1816. BOYAL PAVILION. 121 feet by dragons. The ground of all these compartments is the most wonderful imitation of mother-of-pearl that can possibly be imagined, — it may be even touched, and the deception scarcely perceived. The substance on which it is executed is canvas, but by what curious pnx^ss it is effected, we are unable to guess. When the sun shines on it, the appearance is beautiful, and we imagine it must be equally so when the dazzling lamps are lighted. The pictures in these divisions represent di£Perent scenes in the domestic manners of the Chinese*: — feasting, receiving guests, playing with children, * MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE CHINE8B. ** Of the air and physiognomy of the Chinese, their fashionsy houses, andfumiivre. '* We should make a wrong judgment of the air and physiognomy of the Chinese, if we gave credit to the pictures that we see on their japanned work and chin*- ware; if they are successful in painting flowers, trees, animals, and landscapes, they are very ignorant in drawing mankind, maiming and disfiguring themselves in such a manner, that they are hardly to he known, and may justly he taken for grotesque figures. " It is, neyerthdess, true that heauty depends upon taste, and that it consists more in imagination than reality ; they have a notion of it little different from that of the Europeans, for, generally speaking, that which seems heautiful to us is agreeable to their taste, and that which appears faeautiiul to them appears likewise equally so to us ; that which they chiefly admire, as making a perfect heauty, is a large forehead, short nose, small eyes, a visage large and square, broad and large ears, the mouth middle- sized, and the hair black, for they cannot bear to see it yellow, or red ; however, there must be a certain symmetry and proportion between all the parts, to render them agreeable. " A fine easy shape is not thought to have any charms among them, because their garments are large, and do not sit so close as those of the Europeans ; they think a man wdl-made when he is large and fat, and fills his chair handaomdy. '* Their complexion is not what has been usually represented by those who have seen only the southern parts of China ; for it must be owned, that the excessive heats which prevail there, especially in Quantong, Fokein, and Yunnan, give the medianics and peasants an olive or brown complexion ; but in the other provinces, they are naturally as white as the Europeans, and, generally speaking, their physiognomy has nothing disagreeable. ** Among the charms of the sex, the smallness of their feet is not the least; when a female infant comes into the world, the nurses are very careful to bind thdr feet very dose, for fear they should grow too large. The Chinese ladies are subject all their lives to this constraint, which they were accustomed to in thdr infancy, and thdr gait is dow, unsteady, and disagreeable to fordgners ; yet such is the force of custom, that they not 122 COAST OF SUSSEX music, gardening, introduction, and love making, &C &c. And it should be observed, that these are not merely Fresco paints ings, such as are often seen in England, but highly finished pictures^ displaying much interesting character, and pleasing to the feelings : for this reason we have called this room iniel- only undergo this inconvenience readily^ but they increase it, and endeavour to make their feet as little as possible^ thinking it an extraordinary charniy and always afiecting to show them as they walk. *' However^ they have, generally speaking, the common vanity of the sex, and though they are not to be seen but by their domestics, they spend several hours every morning in dressing and adorning themselves. Their head-dress consists of several curls, interspersed with little tufts of gold and silver flowers. *' There are some who adorn their heads with the figure of a bird called Fong-hoang, a fabulous bird, of which antiquity speaks many mysterious things. This bird is made of copper, or silver gilt^ according to the condir tion of the person ; its wings, extended, lie pretty close on the fore-part of their headrdress, and embrace the upper part of their temples; its long spreading tail makes a sort of plume on the middle of the head, the body is directly over the forehead, the neck and beak fall down upon the nose, but the neck is joined to the body of the animal by a hinge whidi does not appear, to the end that it may easily play and answer to the least motion of the head. The whole bird lies chiefly upon the head, and the daws are fixed in the hair. Women of the first quality have generally an ornament of several of these birds united together, which makes a sort of crown ; the workmanship alone of this ornament is extremely dear. Generally the young ladies wear a kind of crown made of paste-board, and covered with fine silk; the fore part of this crown rises in a point above the fore- head, and is covered with pearls, diamonds, and other ornaments; the upper part of the head is adorned with flowers, either natural or arti- ficial, mixed with little bodkins, the ends of which shine with jewela. Women advanced in years, especially those of the common sort, are contented with a piece of fine silk, wrapt several times round the head, which they call Pao-teou, that is to say, a wrapper to the head. '' That which sets off die natural charms of the Chinese ladies, is the uncommon modesty which appears in their looks and their dress ; their gowns are very long, and cover them from head to foot in such a manner, that nothing appears but their face. Their hands are always concealed under wide long sleeves, that would almost drag on the ground if they were not careful to lift them up. The cobur of their garments is various, either red, blue, or green, according to their fancy ; none but ladies ad- vanced in years wear violet • or Uack."— Dm Halde. * Ihjk. blue and violet, is tbe mourning of the East. « that dark blue dress Bokhara's maidens wear in mournfulness.*' Laila Hoohh, ROYAL PA V] LI OK. 123 lectual. The Chinese physiognomy and ooetume, as here repre- sentedy is any thing but unpleasing : many of the representations are very pretty. A lady and a little boy looking at flowers, ENTERTAINMVNTS. " The streets were narrow^ r^ular, and paved with large atonea brought from some distance. Whatever taste belongs to Chinese architecture seems chiefly directed to the roofs, the pediments are in general elegant and highly decorated. Dwelling-houses were of one story^ built of solid brick work. We crossed a bridge^ over the river, the sorfaoe of which was Bcarody visible from junks. *^ In the Hall of Reception itself was little to remark ; indeed it had altogether the appearance of a temporary erection. We dined at the upper end, and the lower was occupied by the stage. Chinese dintiers with the succession of dishes served upon trays, one of which is placed before one or two persons, according to their rank, have been so accurately described, that I shall not pretend to enter into any detail. The custard, and the preserved fruits with which the dinner commenced were very palatable ; I cannot say that 1 much liked the bird-nest soup, it was too gelatinous and insipid for my taste ; nor did the various additions of shrimps, ^;gs, &c improve the compound ; the shark fins were not more agreeable. The Chinese eat as well as drink to each other, and a Mandarin, who stood behind us, regulated the times of commencement, both in the dishes and cups of wine. The wine was heated, and had not an unpleasant flavour : it is not unlike sherry. The dresses of the actors, and the stage decorations, were very splendid, and there was noise and bustle enough to satiate the eyea and ears. Even those who understood Chinese were not able to trace any story in the performance, which seemed to be more of the nature of a melo* drama than comic or tragic representation. The part of a stag was the best performedin the piece, and when in front of the stage, from the shelterafibrdcd by a group of flag bearers, and the consequent concealment of the boy's legs, illusion was sufficiently perfect. The instrumental music, from its re- semblance to the bagpipes, might have been tolerated by Scotchmen, to others it was detestable. Of the same description was the singing. Our admiration was jusdy bestowed on the tumblers, who yield to none I have ever seen in strength and agility ; their feata were executed with particular neatness. In splendour of appearance, the Mandarins did not stand any competition with the actors, who were blazing with gold; it was suggested that their costumes were the ancient habits of the nation. The dress of ceremony of the Mandarins, consisting of blue gauze or crape, with some flowered satin beneath, is plain and not unbecoming; an embroidered badge;, marking their rank, whether dvil or military, is fixed upon their robe before and behind. The Peacock's feather, or more properly tail of Peacock's feather, answering to our orders of knighthood, is worn behind ; two of these decorations are equivalent to the garter."— JE/^'i Amherst s Embassy to China, 1816. TSAVELLINO. " The larger waggons are covered with matting, and are not ui^e a tilt cart^ tliey are drawn by five mules or horses, in general the latter; the I24i COAST OF SUSSEX. and a bi}Tl of paradise *, are amongst these, as is also a child, playing with one of the tame or charmed snakes. In the centre great compartment, on the east side, is a Chinese bride being conducted home, carried in a palanquin by bearers richly dressed, with a parasol canopy over her head, and a peacock by her side. Three boys in front are respectively carrying a blue banner, and playing on the pipe and cymbals. The pearl ground is also worked in oriental patterns, and the doors of the room resemble rich mother-of-pearl, with gold emboss- ments in the Japanese style. The carpet is of Axminster manufacture ; and on the west side are five handsome windows, with silk and gold draperies. The whole of the windows m this front are very handsome and tasteful ; lofty, and termi- nating in the arabesque arch ; the large panes of plate glass, set in frames of dark wood, with rich gold headings, and borders of amber-coloured glass, and the upper parts are painted. THE GBEEN, OR ANTE-DRAWING-ROOM, 60 feet long and 80 wide, SO called, from the colour of its pale striped draperies, is, like the other drawing-room beyond the saloon, a domestic apartment; though very handsome, possessing all the quiet comfoit of a private residence. The walls are white and gold in broad borders, with a suitable cornice, and the chimney-pieces carts for personal aooommodation are much smaller, drawn by single mules, and hold one person without difficulty, but are extremely inoonyenient from their being without springs. The mules are particcdarly fine, and the better sort of horses resemble the smaller sized Turkoman." — EUis'i China, * CHINESE BIRI>8. ** In the southern provinces there are parrots of all sorts, exactly re- sembling those brought from America. They have the same plumage, and the same aptness for talking, but they are not comparable to the bird called Kniki or Golden Hen : there is no species in Europe anything like it The liyeliness of the red and yellow, the plume on the head, the ddicate shadowing of the tail, the variety of colours of the wings, together with a well-shaped body, have doubtless given occasion for the epithet of Golden conferred on this fowl, to show its preference over the most valuable of the feathered kind;— besides, the flesh is more delicate than that of a pheasant, so that on all accounts not one of the- eastern birds can be more desirable than this in our European countries."— Du Halde, ROYAL PAVILION. 125 white marble and gilt bronze, with grates, as in all the other rooms, of polished steel and or molu. On the east side are four tall Chinese ewers, considered as very recherche: they are of sea-green, embossed with hfindles, approaching to the Egyptian form, imitating gold cordage. THE SALOON, 66 feet long and 30 wide, forms the grand centre of the eastern suite, and is of circular shape, with coved recesses to the north and south, and a large dome clouded in a light and cheerful manner, painted also with a gorgeous dragon with silver and gold flowered wings, enwreathed by crimson and green serpents. From this depends a spiral lustre, expanding to the base, eighteen feet in height: at the angles are smaller lustres. The elliptical recesses have silver plantains on their ceilings, and pilasters with fancy capitals, somewhat like the Corinthian, enclosing in an upright panel a golden lotus tree. The chimney- piece, a stately one, of white marble and or molu, has fine Oriental niches containing figures : around the room are also many splendid cabinets with niches and recesses, lined with mirrors, and containing figures and jars, &c. Over the chimney- piece is an immense mirror, and in front a splendid time-piece of green and gold, with couchant monsters. The doors are in imitation of mother-of-pearl, embossed with gold, and the hangings throughout crimson and gold-flowered satin in com- partments, with silver paper edgings : the ottomans, chairs, and window draperies are in accordance, the latter relieved by blue silk and gold. The carpet, of Axminster work, is of a circular pattern to suit the direction of the room *• * The carpets were rolled up, and the lustres muffled when we saw the rooms, but we were enabled to form an idea of their appearance when dis- played. We may here, once for all, mention what is deserving of re- membrance, that almost all the ornaments and furniture of the Pavilion, excepting some Oriental rarities, are of Eng^sh manufiusture, which was an oliject by no means neglected by the late king. This circumstance should be remembered in an extenuating light by those who complain of George the Fourth's proftision. If the fountain of regal munificence burst 1S6 COAST OP SUSSEX. THE YKLLOW DUAWIKG-ROOM, 60 feet by 20» is very similar in appearance to the first Drawing- Room, but rather richer : the draperies, &c., are of striped satin ; the walls panelled in white with handsome gold borders, and the ceiling supported by two white and gold oriental columns, wreathed with serpents, and capped by a canopy with bells. The chimney-piece is of Oriental porphyry, or some substance much resembling it in appearance. THE M CIS re ROOM, 92 feet long, 42 wide, and 41 high, forms the north wing, and is the most splendid apartment in the palace, dividing the praise of beauty with the Banqueting- room. This might have been the fitting dwelling of the magnificent and courteous Fairy Pari-Banouy of the Arabian Nights. Like the former, it has a fine dome, thirty feet in diameter, with a projecting cornice and painted windows ; but the walls arc on a very different plan, being wholly covered with crimson and gold Japan, representing Chinese scenery, said to be taken from actual examples in the neighbourhood of that far-famed but little known metropolis, Pekin*. The forth with rather too heedless impetuosity, its waters, on reaching the level, branched out in various meandering and fertilizing streams into the quiet retirements of labour and industry ; and the resources of many a poor family have been even Idndly supplied by the expense bestowed on the decorations of a palace. Great and severe economy cm the part of a monarch, as well as his superior and more wealthy nobles, would be almost a crime :— they have freely received, and should freely give. * VICINITY OP PBKIN. ''We left our quarters at five o'clock, and took the same road as on the day we visited Ho. After having skirted the walls of the city, in many places out of repair, we came upon the paved granite road leading to Pekin. One mile from Tong-chou we crossed a large bridge, with a single arch just large enough to admit a small barge just passing tfaroc^h. The view from the bridge was exceedingly striking; the pagoda and watch-tower formed beautiful objects in the distance, while the banks were prettily diversified with cultivation and dumps of trees. Near sunset we passed a wall of good masonry, which seemed to inclose a handsome park ; small pavilions near the road, open on all sides, with highly-decorated roofs, arrested our attention, as characteristic architecture in their best style, and almost good taste: they are said to be commemorative of individual worthiness. I ocpild ROYAL PAVILION. 127 « borders of the large compartments are trellis-work of pale blue and bamboo, with large dragon ornaments at the comers, and the coved roofs of the recesses of bamboo tied with ribbons. The cornice under the dome, which forms an octagon, and projects in the style of a running canopy, is of scarlet and gold, and has rich ornaments and bells. Eight elliptical painted windows, so contrived as to be occasionally illuminated from without, decorate the cove ; and in their minutely varied hues remind us of that pretty toy of some years back, the *' Kaleidoscope.*" The cornice is supported both by scarlet en- wreathed columns, painted in perspective, and also by slender cord-like ones of gold. The swell of the dome has scale-work in what is termed ^^ green gold/' a combination which produces a happy effect. A magnificent foliated ornament at the apex supports the great lustre, displaying the form of a pagoda connected with an immense lotus. There are eight other not detennine all the animala represented by the scalpture; some were certainly lions. — ** Pekin is situated in a plain ; its lofty walls, with their numerous bastions and stupendous towers^ certainly give it an imposing appearance,^ not unworthy the capital of a great empire. On the side near Hai-teen we crossed a large common, wholly uncultivated ; a remarkable circumstance so near Pekin. There are large tracts of ground covered with the nelum- hrium,or water-lily, near the walls, which, from the luxuriant vegetation of this plant, are extremely grateful to the eye. The Tartarean mountains, with their bine and immeasurable summits, arc the finest objects in the vicinity of Pekin ; to many of the party the streets of Pekin might be the great points of attraction, but to myself a visit to this stupendous range would be a source of much higher gratification."— £//tf'« Amhersft £m- hoisi/, 1816. THE OABDEN8 OF TUEN-MINO-TURN, NEAB PEKIN. " The morning was fine, and opened to us a scene of novelty and beauty. After travelling, since leaving Takoo, through an uninterrupted flat of two hundred miles, remarkable neither for its productions or cultivation, we behdd unusual charms in the hills, trees, and flowers which surrounded us. Fields of nelumbo, rearing high its glossy leaves and gorgeous flowers, edged by trees with the foliage of the cassia, spread at our feet, whilst the Tartar mountains, approximated by the haze of the morning, rose in the distance. All the descriptions whidi I had ever heard of the paradisaical ddight of Chinese gardens occurred to my imagination, but in imagina- tion only was I allowed to enjoy them. Acts of fraud, tyranny, and vio- lence speedily effaced the first rising of pleasurable emotioru*'—Abers Voyage to Chinas 1816. 1^ COAIT OF SUSSEX. lustres of much beauty in this room, and a great number of Pagodas of china and glass, manufactured in England, four of which are fifteen feet in height. The organ built by Lincoln in 1818, unquestionably one of the most powerful, yet sweet-toned ones in England, stands on the north side, but its gilded front alone appears, inlaid in the wall ; the instrument itself, which is about twenty feet deep, stands in a separate room behind. '* Its compass is from C. C. C. with a double diapason throughout/* It has three rows of keys, twenty-eight stops, and twenty pedals. Over the chimney-piece is a very grand mirror, about twelve feet by eight, with a gilded canopy supported by columns : in front is a time-piece of curious and elaborate pattern. The chimney-piece, executed by Westmacotty is by far the most stately in the Pavilion^ and has a really noble effect : the project- ing sweep of cornice is supported on the wings of an expanding dragon, and the massive, though short, oriental columns, with elaborately carved capitals, and still larger bases of inverted lotus, &c. &c. are in the best possible style, reminding the spectator of the grand conceptions of Martin. From some remaining examples, and hints derived from recondite sources, this is supposed to have been actually the style which pre- vailed some thirty centuries ago, in ancient Babylon and Persepolis. %• THE PALACE CHAPEL • is a very spacious and handsome apartment, eighty feet by forty. The royal seat is splendidly adorned with or molu or- naments and crimson velvet ; the organ is a very fine one, and the communion plate is of gold. The chaplain is the Rev. Dr. Everard. * That we did not see the chapd and some other a^jancta of the palace was not owing to our own neglect, or to any deficiency in the obliging and condescending order we reodved, or any want of coarteousnesg on the part of Miss Lovatt There must, of course, have been minor indvility to impede us, but we shall not particularise it. -u.,„../A.„^,...^^. ^,:, 1£9. > r : » *\ •. 1 « iV « ROYAL PAVILION. 129 \* THE STABLES AND RIDING-HOUSE, at the north-west angle of the palace grounds, form a large and imposing pile. The interior of the stables, whose outward ap- pearance is octagonal, is a magnificent circular area of 250 feet, with a dome in the centre eighty-eight feet in diameter, and, after St. Paul's, one of the largest in England. Into this area the suites of stables, which will accommodate seventy horses, open. There are also other projecting buildings, and a large square court-yard for carriages. The long front towards Church-street, ornamented by large windows and minarets, is now completed by the erection of the east wing. The riding-house and tennis- court are each 200 feet by fifty. The spacious dome is a handsome object in every view of the town. Moresque is the term usually conferred on the architecture of this edifice ; but we imagine it possesses some features exiiibited in the build- ings of Hindostan. ENTRANCES. The southern entrance was erected in 1831, opening into Castle-square and East-street. It is a very neat erection, but is, at least by comparison, not much admired. Minarets se- parate it into three divisions: the centre has the archway, which is of handsome and suitable appearance, but the side divisions are rather too much broken by small windows, which gives the whole the appearance of a house. The northern gate-house, finished in 1832 (represented in our Plate), is a noble and faultless building, exhibiting every characteristic of boldness and stateliness. The crowning dome, in the style of the central one of the Pavilion, the substantial centre minarets, and the light fluted ones at the wings, with the rich fret-work of the arch and turrets, are all excellent of their kind, and leave nothing to be desired. K 130 COAST OF SUSSEX. STEYNE. Every one to whom the name of Brighton is familiar has heard of " The Steyne,^ formerly its sole fashionable pro- menade, and as intimately identified with its gay renown as Bond-street^ Ranelagh, or the Pantheon with that of London in the last century. But, like the latter, it has been shorn of its beams, and by new and usurping comets in the horizon re- duced to a minor twinkler. Still, though in a great measure thrust from its place by the Marine Parade, it continues to possess the same advantages, and as a thoroughfare is traversed by continual groups of every description, not omitting the most genteel. The closing of Lucomb's library was a sad cloud over its gaiety, especially in summer evenings. The building has been refitted as a bazaar of a splendid character, and doubtless deserving of notice ; but such an establishment has a much less forcible attraction. The oblong space of the Steyne has two inclosures surrounded by iron rails, and a spacious bricked pavement, nearly twenty feet wide. The air is very fine ; and the effect of the spacious level, opening at the sea, and terminating beyond the town, very interesting. In the inclosure nearest the palace is a bronze statue of George IV., by Chantrey^ on a pedestal nine feet in height, erected in 1828, by a subscription of 3000/. THE NORTH STEYNE, In the continuation of the level, is a new oblong enclosure extending to that of the new church ; it is laid out in a style similar to the squares in the metropolis. Beyond the new church, to the left, is the London road, which for nearly half the distance to Preston, one mile, is bordered by houses ; those on the left side are neatly built, in the cottage or villa style, with small gardens, and are desirable to those by whom cheapness must be studied in the first instance. At the other angle of the Steyne is the road to Lewes ; on the right hand are some handsome villas, and on the left a spacious open track in a wild state, used as a play or cricket-ground by the boys of the town. BRIGHTON. 131 THE ROYAL GARDENS, NOW THE ZOOLOGICAL GABDENS. ' Before we bad the advantage, or the misfortune (for we do not exactly know which it will turn out), to have visited Brighton, these gardens were, properly speaking, pleasure gardens, like the famed <^ Dandelion^ of Margate, a mimic Vauxhall or Tivoli, though of a more quiet character. They comprised bowling greens, a fives' court, cricket ground, tea- boxes, an aviary, a Merlin^s swing, a maze, &c., &c., a large ball-room, and occasional small temporary erections for that purpose; public breakfasts, &c., were also sometimes held. All this has passed away, and we regret it exceedingly ; not that Zoological Gardens have been established within the limits of the town, but that they have superseded the former, which were compelled to be abandoned, and that the industrious and deserving author, Mr. Ireland, lost some thousands of pounds by the speculation, and is now in reduced circumstances, after havmg certainly conferred some benefit on the town. All this is not as it should be : if the very existence of such a thing as liberality b^ allowed in the present day but that sleeps, and is likely to do so, either till happier times come (which pitying Heaven soon grant!), or till the minds of the public open themselves to more generous feelings. We would ^ve it a push, or even a slight goad, to rouse it, if we could, but that we f^y - " *Twould do no good, but * trice warsa,* ** The dull spirit, now like a <^ lazy lubber fiend,^ would only growl and snap at us. Our business now, however, is with the zoological establish- ment, and no blame attaches to its proprietors for taking up what others had been compelled to leave. It occupies the same beautifully disposed grounds, with many improvements, at present only in their infancy*. The large cricket ground * By comparing the plans, we think it will have a similarity of appearance to the establishment on Primrose HiU, but that of Brighton is deficient in a mount. K ^ ISS COAST OF SUSSEX. before the gardens is now taken into the plan, and a new cricket ground elsewhere has been assigned to the late pro- prietor, Mr. Brown, who still keeps the inn at the south-west angle. A neat but not very handsome gate has been erected facing the level. The large ball room, eighty feet by thirty, at the entrance of the gardens, is to be orienialised^ to cor- respond with some other erections of a smaller character, for beasts and birds. The gardens remain nearly in their original state. At the entrance is a sunk, circular bowling-green, be- yond which is an aviary of rustic-work, representing a Gothic building with three aisles ; from hence commences a beautiful avenue of small trees, terminated by a narrow canal or ditch, and a bridge, leading to a Saxon tower, which, if it had been a little higher, would have had an admirable effect ; it has a battery of six small cannon. The maze beyond the tower terminates the gardens; but on either side are other walks and lawns, also a grotto, tent, basin of water, &c. &c. The band of the regiment stationed in Brighton plays on one after- noon in the week for two hours in the bowling-green, when there is a fashionable promenade. Balls for the middle classes were formerly held, with coloured lamps, fireworks, &c. The collection of animals is at present small, and kept in a temporary place, but is very well managed. It consists of two young tigers, two fine leopards*, a panther, hyaena, a lynx, two Russian bears, foreign goats, deer, lamas, monkeys, &c. 8cc, The lion-|- and the elephant are still wanting. A boa con- * It is not generally known, but we ha^e it on the testimony of a person who watched them by passing the night in a tree in India, that several of this tribe, but especially the leopard, or cheetah, when at ease in their own haunts, purr like the domestic cat. f Few descriptions of the lion are more beautifully correct and striking than one contained in an eccentric but, in some parts, noble poem. Smart's « Song to David" :— << Strong is the lion ! like a coal His eyeball ; like a hastioiCs moh His breast against his foes.*' Having had the honour of a yisiting acquaintance with <' His Majesty of Mysore," a British-bom lion, who, however, on one occasion, was near inflict- ing ci^ital punishment upon us, by mistake for a less courteous visitor, who had insulted him, we can speak, from actual contact, of the regal proportions. BKI6UTOK. 13S strictor is the only curiosity of that class. There is a beautiful assortment of birds, paroquets^ cockatoos^ macaws, &c. &c. &c. Subscription to the Zoological Gardens is one guinea the year, or one shilling the day. [Immediately after the above was written, we saw that the proprietor of the Zoological Gardens was also a bankrupt ! ! !] PARK. " O Proserpina, For the flowers now that frighted thou let*8t fall From Dis's waggon ! daffodils That come before the swallow dares, and take The winds of March with beauty ; violets, dim. But sweeter than the lids of Juno*s eyes, Or Cytherea's breath." WiNTER'8 Tale. ** Siderum sacros imltata ndtus. Quid lates dudum Rosa? delicatum Effer e terris caput, O tepentis FihaCoeli! Te semper nubes fiigiant aquosse Quas fugiunt albis Zephyri quadrigis ; Te semper mulcet Boream jocantis Aura Fayoni.** Casimir *. To the visitor of Brighton, ** in populous city pent,^ at the genial approach of spring, no resort can be more appropriate than this, or so well calculated as a rich and luxuriant refuge from the dulness and sterility of the surrounding country. Here Nature, new robed in fairy charms, smiles on him after her resurrection from her needful sleep, and « The earth, the common air, the skies, To him are opening paradise,** In a densely.peopled town, where the extent of garden, to those houses which can in the least claim such an appendage, is of the most limited character, no idea could have been better than that of enclosing a spacious lawn or shrubbery, presenting a variety of aspects, from the inequality of the ground ; in some * Matthew Casimir Sarbiewski, a Lithuanian palatine, priest, and poet of the seventeenth century, the purest and most happy imitator of Horace. EdUio Bipontina, Argeniorati f Sirtuburgh) 1808. 134 COAST OF SUSSEX. places ornamented with spontaneous wild-flowers, and in others trimly and gorgeously fitted out with the refined parterre ; and all this open to the visitor on the most moderate terms *. The Park is situated just where the elevation of the Downs commences, and nearly in a line with the back of the New Steyne^ from which it is about a quarter of a mile distant. Its principal entrance is through a neat Roman arch, and the visitor finds a good carriage-road, leading him a course of nearly a mile round its limits, which comprise sixteen acres. This road is edged with flower-beds and a shrubbery, whilst the centre of the park, which inclines to a hollow form, has more the wild appearance of a meadow, and is diversified by plantations of hazel, mountain-ash, &c. : in one part is a good archery-ground with a rustic arbour or hut. We could occupy much space in dwelling on this pretty spot, but have probably said enough to excite a view of it, when, if no high-flown ideas are entertained, there is little danger of disappointment. It is, of course, an equally agreeable retreat in summer, though the primary vernal attraction we have alluded to has then lost its novelty ; and its seclusion from the bustle and publicity of the town, and fine view of the sea, are always attractive. For family parties and associations it is eminently qualified ; per- haps for others of a more romantic nature ; it would make an admirable scene for one of Wordsworth^s love-tales. « That day, the first of a re-union. That was to teem with blest communion, That day, of balmy April weather, They tarried in the wood together." At the south-western angle of the Park is the GERMAN SPA, a neat building, with an Ionic portico and a separate pleasure- ground. Here are composed the imitative German waters of various kinds and for various purposes ; Carlsbad, Marienbad * We believe the liberty of walking here and gathering flowers may be ob- tained for 12ff. the season ; for a separate visit it is twopence, and for the same consideration the visitor may have a nosegay gathered for him, and carry it away. It is a popular resort for servants and children as well as their friends. BBIGUTOX. 135 Spa^ Pyrmonty Ems, Seltsder^ S^c ,the invention of Dr. Struve of Dresden, about twelve years ago ; where, and also at Leip- sic and Berlin, similar establishments are in existence. This is a subject on which we are not able to speak, but it is said that they have nearly the virtues of the originals, and that those of Carlsbad in particular have effected the most beneficial results. CHALYBEATE *. This spring is situated behind the western end of the town, and is a pleasant walk of less than half a mile from Brunswick or Regency Squares ; it is also approached from the Western Road, and by a very pleasant footway from above the Old Church, over an intervening hill, which commands a magni- ficent view, and has a very fine air. Before the front of the building is a small lawn, and on the right hand is a. pretty Swiss cottage, occupied by a confectioner. The edifice has a neat Ionic colonnade, and a very handsome and airy reading- room — decidedly one of the best in Brighton. The small well or fountain is a few feet below the floor of the right wing, and has a very neat staircase descending to it. At the back of the building is a small lawn surrounded by a shrubbery, which is at present only in its infancy, but may, by gradual improvements, be made a pretty place. Archery-fetes have occasionally been held here, with prizes in a good style, and the attendance of a military band; private parties also occasionally frequent it. The proprietor has, with a spirit tenfold valuable in Brighton, from its unfortunate rarity f, employed four musicians, who play in a respectable style during some hours of the day. Ad- mittance to the Chalybeate is at 1/. 1^. a year, or M. a time. * We tbink it scarcely neceRsary to inform our readers that this word is de- rived from the Greek and Latin chalyhs, ** steel," because we suppose them to be rather more awake than the learned doctor, whose servants were engaged in drawing off the water of a pond to catch some of the *' finny tribe" (as they are termed by all pretty writers), when a friend came breathlessly to inform him that " they bad just discovered a chalybeate ;** " O, have they," answered the sage, « well — put it with the other fish,** f Or is it want of encouragement to honest pains, on the part of the visitor? It is not easy to distingmsh the respective shares of blame ; but that there is a sad dearth of all amusement in the town cannot be denied. 136 COAST OF SUSSEX. On the hill adjoining the ground is a little sprinkling of wild heath and wooded scenery ; not very superior, to be sure, but still a. gem in the borders of Brighton. The view of the ocean, the harbour of Shoreham, and Worthing Point is very pleasing, and the air so excellent, that this alone is worth a walk to the spot. On the good qualities of this fountain of relief we are also not competent to offer any observations. The visitor will find one or two pamphlets on the subject, but will, perhaps, do well to seek for that of its promulgator. Dr. Relhan. The component parts of the water have some affinity to those of the Tunbridge Wells chalybeate, but are more strongly im- pregnated with iron, as may easily be discovered by the slightest taste. In an extensive variety of cases, where a powerful tonic is required, it is said, in conjunction with sea air and bathing, to have almost worked miracles. NORTH-STREET, LAMPS, PAVEMENT. North-street is the principal thoroughfare of Brighton, but from its irremediable narrowness at the summit of the hill is often most iqconveniently crowded. At the entrance opposite the private entrance to the Pavilion, is an open space, called Castle-square; here a spacious street, termed East-street, is a fashionable avenue to the West Cliff. A little further up North-street is the Colonnade, a handsome piazza extending along two sides of the angle formed by the junction of the New-road. Brighton is lighted with gas, but very indifferently ; the individual lights are large and ht^idsome, but much too ** few and far between ;** and in some parts the illumination is confided entirely to the private lights of the shops, conse- quently when these are shut up, there is almost total darkness. In some localities, as in Regency-square, the inhabitants have voluntarily incurred the expense of a double number of lamps. Some parts of the Sea-range have their foot pavements flagged, but the greater part of the trotioirs are paved with brick, which has a very novel appearance, but not unprepossessing, especially when it is washed to a deep red by a shower, and contrasts with the narrow curb edging of stone. BRIGHTON. 137 BRIGHTON, EAST OF THE STEYNE. At the opening of the Steyne, the Parade is not much above ten feet from the sea; it rises gently to the Pier, where it is about thirty feet, and subsequently, before reaching Kemp Town, attains the height of ninety. Facing the Steyne is the lodge entrance to the Esplanade, which extends 1^50 feet (about a quarter of a mile) to the Pier : it is merely a narrow carriage road and a foot pavement, raised a few feet above the beach and railed in, with a flanking wall above, protecting the Marine Parade. CHAIN PIER, DIEPPE, &c. &c. We believe this was the first edifice of the kind in England constructed on piles, the efiiciency of which at first excited some doubt, but confidence was secured by information ob- tained, that the batteries erected on piles by the Czar Peter at Cronstadt remained unimpaired to the present day. The in- ventor and architect was Captain Brown, R. N., to whom much praise and gratitude is due ; we sincerely regret to add, for the sake of all concerned, that it has proved a very losing speculation : it is hard that public-spirited individuals should so often, in this vicinity, lose their reward. Some public means, if possible, should be taken to remedy this untoward event. The length of the Brighton Chain Pier is 1130 feet, exactly six-sevenths of a quarter of a mile*, and width 13 feet. The platform is supported by the chains, which at the south end pass 54 feet into the clifl^, and are there strongly bolted, from thence passing, with alternate dips, over the towers, they descend into the sea at the furthest extremity, and are im- bedded in the rock. The rods, individually slender, by which the platform is hung on the chains, are 36^ in number; and each division of the chain, of which there are four on each side formed by the intervention of the towers, has 117 links^ each weighing llSlbs. The piles are four in number, at the distance of 258 feet: the first three consist of twenty piles •1320 feet XG-r? = 1131f. 138 COAST OF SUSSEX. each, with some horizontal and diagonal beams ; the fourth, ivhich is the Pier Head, is in the form of a T, and is paved with Purbeck stone, to the weight of 200 tons. The piles here are 150, firmly secured by diagonal ties of great strength. The towers of cast iron, each weighing 15 tons, are 25 feet high from the platform, which is itself 13 feet above high- water mark. In the centres are arches, and the sides are occupied by small shops, tenanted by confectioners, fancy- ware sellers, and a profile artist. The sides of the platform have neat iron railings, and the whole of the iron work in this Pier is painted of a bright green, which has a cheerful effect, Norway fir is the wood used in the piles, which are pitched, and in some places plated with metal, but they are frequently corroded by the water, and removed ; and there is no doubt that the lower part of the Pier will often verify the fate of the Irishman's knife, — ^very old, — but which had first a new handle, and then a new blade. Below the Pier Head is a gallery, where in a high sea the breaking of the waves may be seen and heard to great advantage; and merriment is often excited by hasty runs and jumps to avoid shqwers of spray. On the platform is a flag-staff, on which colours are hoisted on Sundays and holydays, and also signals; that for the arrival of a vessel is white on red, and for its departure white on blue (the *' Blue Peter"). Here are also two signal guns, about six pounders, which have a very loud report. The steam packets to Dieppe, the Talbot and Eclipse, leave this Pier twice a week in the summer season, and are very safe and convenient vessels ; their arrivals and departures generally ex- cite a crowd and some interest. The band of the regiment also plays on the Pier once a week. In the intervals of sailing, the packets are moored in the harbour of Shoreham, and when the tide will not allow of their coming up to the Pier Head, they start from that place ; also, in a few instances, when they cannot conveniently make Shoreham, they steer for Newhaven or Little Hampton. Dieppe is ,^7 leagues or 81 miles distant from Brighton, and 1£6 miles from Paris. The route lies through the noble and celebrated city of Rouen, which is said to be, alone, worth a visit to France ; and, in fact, has inte- BRIGHTON. 139 resting associations for an Englishman, possessed by few other places on the continent. We had some thoughts of adding, or publishing separately, a survey of the route from Dieppe to Paris, but were prevented by circumstances, one of which was the miserable deficiency of all encouragement, in this time generally, and particularly in the vicinity of Brighton. We have nothing more to say on the subject of the Chain Pier, but that it has commodious baths at its extremity, and a camera obscura at the descent from the Marine Parade ; here is also a Saloon and Reading-room, with occasional accessories of amusement, as foreign musicians, &c. Fireworks have been occasionally exhibited on the Pier, by Mr. Jones, a resident pyrotechnist, whose only remuneration (or '^ guerdon,^ for that is " eleven-pence farthing betterr — Shakspeare) is the voluntary contribution of the company. The total expense, including the Esplanade, was 30,000/., defrayed in shares by a company. The admission is 1/. \s. per annum, or two- pence each visit: parties landing at or embarking from' it pay sixpence. On the 23d of November, 1824, the Pier was severely tried by a storm, but found fully competent to endure any such convulsions. The waves ran " mountains high,^ and often completely obscured the Pier from sight : they broke down the wooden railing at its head, washed up some of the planks, and occasionally raised the platform several feet between the towers, but from its elasticity it speedily recovered its proper place, and no part of the chains or piles was broken. De- scriptions and plates of this storm have been published, and may be had in Brighton. THE MAHINE PARADE; KEMP TOWN, &c. extends about a mile and a half along the Cliff to Kemp Town. This portion of the town is decidedly the best adapted for those who require a bracing air, as the west end is for those to whom a mild and sheltered situation is the primary object. The average difference of temperature between the two is stated to be two degrees and a half. Of the fine effect of the air and prospects here, we cannot speak too highly : they 140 COAST OF SUSSEX. are only to be exceUed, on the southern coast, at Eastbourne. The Marine Parade has many fine piles of buildings and some good squares and streets, opening into the interior line of houses. Amongst these are the New Steyne, the Crescent, Rock-gardens, Marine-square, and Portland-street; the latter has a large mansion at the end, called Portland House, sur- mounted by the lion-statant crest of the Duke of Norfolk. In front is a fluted Corinthian portico, which would be extremely noble, if the entablature and pediment were in proportion to the columns. Near this point is a descent by a staircase to the bottom of the cliff, a walk to which will be found very interesting, as also a ramble amongst the rocks, sea-weeds, and shrimp fishers, &c. at low water. The sea-wall, erected at an expense of 5000/., to defend the Marine Parade, from the insufiiciency of its prominence as a bulwark, fell down — which was, doubt- less, a most provoking circumstance. A new one, on a very solid and grand construction, has been begun, but stopped by disagreements in the town ; yet it will probably be completed. The famed *^ Kemp Town" occupies the farthest point. This pile is certainly imposing from its extent, and in parts is very handsome. The Crescent is upwards of 800 feet in span, 200 feet more than the largest in Bath, out of which issues a spacious square. The architecture has generally the lower story Doric and the upper Ionic, or in some places Corinthian. The worst part of the erection is the farther terrace, called " Albany," the style of which is very mediocre. A lateral perspective view of the crescent and square can only excite a pleasing idea. Kemp Town is, however, at present a dull place : ** the grass grows in the streets.^ Its principal attraction is the residence of the Duke of Devonshire, which occupies a part of the most de- sirable locality, the Crescent, as represented in our plate. The great error was in calling it, or wishing it to be thought, a sepa- rate ^^ town'^ from Brighton, to which distinction it has not the slightest claim. It has no earthly concomitant of a town : no steeple, market-house, shops, or inns. Had it been merely called Kemp Place, or Crescent, considered as a suburb to Brighton, and more closely allied to it, it would have been well ; and no wfmmm HPIiPHiPViPP ^i.:^- ^ BRIGHTON. 141 one could have disputed its cUum to the character of a fine range of buildings. An attempt was also made to gain for Brunswick-square, and one or two adjoining streets, the ap- pellation of a ^* town ;^ but good sense prevailed, and the design was abandoned. In front of Kemp Town, with a slight descent from the ' Cliffy is a very desirable esplanade, formed by a mound of sand rising from the beach, with a neat cemented tunnel in the centre issuing from the lawn of Kemp Town. The situation is in a certain degree sheltered, and the views are nevertheless fine. On the beach, at a spot called Black Rock, is also a very long tunnel for carts, which we should think might be a minute representation of the Grotto of Pausilippo. The Cliff continues its ascent to the signal-house, where we should suppose it was from 150 to 200 feet high, and a walk to this spot will repay the time and trouble of the visitor. BRIGHTON, WEST OF THE STEYNE. The new sea-road and Esplanade at the back of the Albion Hotel, is one of the most beneficial of the new erections, as previous to this the communication between the two ends of the Town was only by a narrow lane issuing out of the Steyne. The range from hence to the western extremity, about a mile and a quarter, is called '^ King's Road." The esplanade, which is fortified by wooden flanking walls, and piles of very great strength, is at its commencement low ; and a walk along this locality has an interesting and romantic effect in a wintry evening, when the roar of the waves is heard near us, whilst their swell is almost unseen, except when the white fringe of a breaker makes itself conspicuous above the '< dark profound.'' These sights and sounds will strike him, who, like Pelops, ** comes down in the dark to the white sea*.'* The wholesale Fish-market is held on the beach. Here the colliers and other trading vessels unload, and the sailing and row-boats are moored, or ply for fares and parties. The streets opening into the town are narrow and business-like ; • Pindar. 142 COAST OF SUSSEX. Still the fashionable promenade is in full vigour here, and the houses are in great request. The turn of the street leading out of East Street, and also Pool Lane, are occupied by gay shops of fancy dealers of every description, and milliners. Farther west is the Battery of six guns, taken from a French ship, where they were rated as thirty-eight pounders, but the French pound weighing eighteen ounces English, they carry a ball of forty pounds and a half. At the back of the battery on the opposite side of the street, is an artillery guard-house or barrack. A little to the east of the battery is the custom-house, which has a small neat front, and both of these have flag-staffs. Regency Square, one of the most fashionable situations, is very regularly built, and is neat, without much architectural ornament : immediately beyond it, Preston Street, a wide and handsome one, runs up to the Western Road, which extends from the top of North Street at the back of the whole west end of the town, and is similar, in appearance, to the suburbs of London. It contains some very good conservatories. The range of buildings from Regency to Brunswick square, is handsome ; the latter is the largest square in the town ; the fronts of its houses are generally circular, and ornamented with columns ; but the large opening at the top is to be regretted, as it has a rather cold and naked effect. The square is infe- rior in beauty to the terraces on either hand of its front, which are among the best erections in Brighton, ornamented with bold and handsome Corinthian pillars, in a very good style*. At the farthest extremity the new *' Adelaide Cres- cent," so called in honour of the Queen, the patroness of Brigh- ton, is now erecting, and promises to be an unusually fine and stetely building f. It was stated in the BriglUon Gazette that this was " the first attempt at regular architecture in Brighton." This is unfair, as there is much respectable Pal- ladian architecture in that town ; but Adelaide Crescent will unquestionably be one of its best ornaments. The front has no columns, but the windows are very handsomely ornamented * See Plate. t The only small object which approaches it in the town, is the front of the « Clarence Mansion" boarding-house. BRIGHTON. 143 with Stone balconies, mouldings, and pediments; and the enriched projecting cornice is supported by bold cantilivers : the terrace in front, which is rusticated in the Burlingtonian style, the railed square, &c. will all possess features of con- siderable grandeur. The western esplanades, which are between half and three quarters of a mile in length, are very spacious and convenient Some time ago, through an extraordinarily stupid manage- ment, the walks were absolutely paved with bruised chciUc^ which rendered them inaccessible in sunshiny weather, on pain of blindness : but on strong remonstrances being made in the newspapers, it was removed, and gravel substituted. A band, consisting of ten persons, was established here last summer to play on three evenings in the week, to which also the inhabitants had been urged in the Brighton papers, from the consideration that they did not provide amuse- ments for visitors ; but we believe it was abandoned before the end of the season, from the deficiency of subscriptions. Here, however, the visitors must share the blame with the inhabitants, as they were well contented to walk and listen to the music, which, though not of the highest order, was much better than nothing; — ^yet kept their purses closed. The small town of St. Leonard's, which has not one-thirtieth part of the population of Brighton, supports a parade band with ease. Perhaps another season will find the latter in a more Uberal mood. The esplanade is a very lively scene on summer mornings, with ladies, gentlemen, and children ; bathing machines, horses, donkies, pleasure-boats, &c. ; and would form a good subject for a landscape ; the evening promenades are also very lively*. * Ah, County Guy, the hour is nigh, The sun has left the lea, The orange-flower perfiimes the bower, The breeze is on the sea. The lark, his lay that trilled all day. Sits hushed, his partner nigh. Breeze, bird, and flower, they know the hour, But where is County Guy? 144 COAST OF SUSSEX. Our Gallic neighbours (whom we like very well in their own characters*, and only dislike when vexatiously prused by English Gallo-maniacs, to the entire depreciation of tlieir own countrymen) are very partial to Brighton, compared with which their sole Bains de Mer at Dieppe must hide their diminished heads. The promenades here are very well suited to their taste, and they delight to <' take a little turn of walking," either of an evening or ** of good morning/' which enables them to <* carry themselves well.^' Sometimes also they undertake that feat, perilous in sound, which they by a most ludicrous perversion of ideas, call '' walking on a horse," which, however, we have no wish to see them literally put in practice, as, especially in the case of ladies, it would be very hazardous f. LIBRARIES. The original Library of Brighton is now occupied by Mr. PhUipSy confectioner, at the south western angle of the Old Steyne, and was successively kept by Mr. Woodgate, Mr. Crawford, and Mr. Bowen. The second was Lucambe*s on the Steyne, now converted into a Bazaar, a circumstance to be The village maid steals througli the shade. Her lover*8 suit to hear ; To beauty shy, by lattice nigh. Sings high-bom cavalier : The star of love, all stars above, Now reigns o'er earth and sky ; And high and low the influence know, Then where is County Guy ? Quentin Dttrward. • Is the tale of « the Violet Girl of the Pont Neuf,*' in the November No. of the Court Magazine, true ? We hope it is. f All languages, however, have probably some absurd idioms, not except- ing the Greek and Latin, and the English have no right to laugh at their neighbours. Our « shall** and « will," must ever be the torment of foreigners, as they were near proving fatal to the poor Frenchman, who in figJling from London Bridge, exclaimed « I wiU be drowned — nobody shaB help me.** We speak of a person's being « in Uqaor,** the only actual instance of which on record was Shakspeare's Duke of Clarence, when drowned in the butt of Malmsey : — also of another's being « beside himself," which if graphically represented, would be a very amusing caricature. BRIGHTON. 145 regretted by summer visitors, as its musical and other entertain- ments rendered it the most lively resort in the town. The third established was Tuppen\ facing the sea, near the entrance of the Marine Parade : this is still in existence, and is at present the only establishment for loo and music : the usual vocal per- former is Miss Corrie, a young lady known and esteemed in the place, whose voice has a very sweet and silvery tone. Messrs, Wright^ our highly respectable publishers, amongst whose subscribers are the King and Queen, have two esta- blishments; a large and convenient one in the colonnade. North Street; and a smaller but equally convenient library on the Western Esplanade, near Cannon Place, to meet the views of the residents in that vicinity. At both these ar© also mtisical libraries, in which they have attained much celebrity, and at the colonnade library is a concert-room. Mr, Loder*Sj in North Street, has a very large collection of books, and a convenient reading-room, as has also Mr. Taylor^ s^ in the same street, possessing equal advantages ; and a similar character may be given to Mr, NasKs^ from Tunbridge Wells, at the west end, near Mahommed^s baths, and Mr. Brewer'Sy and Mr. Saundei% in St. James Street. The terms of these libraries are nearly similar, viz. <£l. lls.6d. per annum ; 18s. per six months; 8s. per month ; and OS. per fortnight. Messrs. Taylor^s, and Saunder'^s are, we believe, rather less. There are also four or five other libraries in the town, the grade and terms of which may not be equal to the preceding; but they may nevertheless have their merits, and be found adapted to the wishes of the visitor. BATHS, WABM, COLD, AND SHOWER, &C. &C. The oldest are Wood's^ at the south western extremity of the Steyne, which are still equal, though not superior, to the later established ones. The others are Maliommed's^ cele- brated for the process of shampooing : Williams' s, and Lam- prelTSf in the same vicinity ; the latter has a very large circular plunging bath ; Hobden's, further west, near the battery ; 146 COAST OF SUSSEX. and an establishment on the New Steyne. It would be invidious to institute any comparison between the several parties: each possesses a convenient reading-room, &c. and affords equal attention and civility. Nor is it within the compass of our purpose, either here, or at any other place, to digress into any observations on the mode or utility of bathing ; the reader must be referred to able medical authorities. BATHING MACHINES are found at the western part of the town, and are on the same plan as at most other watering places, and on the same terms. This again is a subject on which the visitor will find immediate information attainable on his arrival. FLYS, HORSES, &c Brighton possesses a very large number, we believe between 200 and 800, of carriages of every description, principally four wheeled. They are in general neat, and the horses tolerably good. We may as well subjoin the list of fares, for the con- venience of visitors, particularly as we believe those at Wor- thing and Hastings are nearly similar, which will save repe- tition in our accounts of those places. " FOE TIME. ** For every hour, or any less time — to commence from leaving the stand, First class * . . . . Ss. 6d. Second class • . . . 2s. 6d. Third class . .Is. 6d. " For half an hour after the first hour, or any less time, First class . . . Is. 9d. Second class . . . .Is. 3d. Third class ... Os. 9d. * These depend on the size and the number of persons they cany. Is. 6d. Is. Od. Os. 9d. Os. 9d. Os. 6d. Os. 6d." BRIGHTON. 147 *^ VOR DISTANC£. ^^ For any distance not exceeditig one mile, including the distance from the stand or place from whence the coach, carriage, or fly shall be called, to the place where the fare shall be taken up. First class .... Second class .... Third class .... " And for every additional half-mile, First class .... Seoond class .... Third class .... There are also sedan chairs and hand flies on proper terms. The small carriages for children are drawn by goats^ an idea first put in practice by a boy of Brighton : they are generally well treated ; and there is said to be no cruelty in using these animals for the purpose, as, from their strong formation, they are not unfitted for draught. In fact, they are actually employed to assist in drawing ploughs in Savoy, Whilst it is added that this remark does not apply to Dogs, and that the use made of them is one for which, as they are not fitted, they certainly could never have been intended, and that employing them is, in many respects, absolute cruelty — a remark which deserves consideration. The car of the famed Princess, in petto, ^* Cinderella," was drawn by two goats at the Brighton theatre. We feel great pleasure in adding, that we were informed, by an honourable lady, whom we have the pleasure to call a friend, as noble in mind as in person, the munificent foundress and patroness of an Association in London, for ^* Promoting Rational Humanity towards the Animal Creation," that, during a residence of several weeks in Brighton^ she perceived fewer indications of cruelty than in any other place she had visited *. * We know that this noble lady, or any other person who should recommend such a Society or purpose, would be assailed by some, though not all, with the refuge of inhumanity or cold-heartedness — ^the epithet of *< morbid sensibility,** which in her case would be about as much heeded as if << dogs had bayed the moon.*' 1,2 148 COAST OF SUSSEX. The horses kept at the livery stables in Brighton are gene- rally of a superior kind, and sometimes of high breeding : the terms are rather expensive. FISHERY. THE FISHER'S CALL. « BY THOMAS DOTTBLEDAY. The thorn is in the bud, The palm is in the blossoniy The primrose, in the shade. Unfolds her dewy boeom ; Sweet Coquet's purling dear. And summer music making; The trout has left his lair. Then waken, fishers, waken. The lavrock's in tlie sky. And on the heath -ihe plover^ The bee upon the thyme. The swallow skimming over ; The fanner walks the field. The seed he's casting steady ; The breeze is blowing west. Be ready, fishers, ready. The violet's in her prime, And April is the weather; The partridge on the wing, The muiroock in the heather ; The sun's upon the pool. His momin' radiance wasting. It's glittering like the gold. Oh! hasten, fishers, hasten. Anniversary, 1829. Probably the description of the Brighton fisheries by the able zoologist Pennant, about fifty years ago, will nearly serve for the present time ; or where it differs it will have the effect of novel historical particulars, and the visitor will easily discover the mode and degree of difference. ^' The fish-market, both wholesale and retail, is kept on the beach, a little beyond the baths; the boats used in the fisheries are from ten to fifteen tons, made remarkably strong BRIGHTOK. 149 to secure them against the storms in their winter adventure. The mackarel boats are navigated by three or four men and a boy ; there are about forty-five for the mackarel fishery, and twenty-five for the trawling; they set sail generally in the evenii^, go eight or ten leagues to sea, and return the next day ; the fishing is always carried on in the night. The crew are provided with tea, cofiEee, water, and a small quantity of spirits, for at sea they are remarkably temperate ; their in- dulgence is only on shore. They only take with them bread, beef, and greens, which, and sometimes fish, they often eat with their tea and cofiee. They are a hardy race, and very healthy; yet, during the summer season, they have a very small interval from labour. They get a good meal, and a very short repose by laying themselves on a bed during the few hours in the day in which they come on shore. They bring their fish in baskets to the beach, fling them in vast heaps, and instantly a ring of people is formed round, an auction is begun, and the heap is immediately disposed of: the price is uncertain, according to the success of the night. Mackarel this season (1793) were sold from IL to 7/. a hundred ; they have been sold as high as 15Z. a hundred. Mackarel and soles are the great staples of the place ; nine or ten thousand have been taken at one shooting of the net. Mackarel swim tieep in calms, and rise to the surface in gales, when the largest fish and the greatest quantity are taken. ** The nets consist of a number of parts, each of which are from thirty-six to fifty yards long and deep, and are kept buoyant by corks. These united form a chain of nets a mile and a half long. Before they are used in the spring they are taken from the storehouses and spread upon the Steyne ; a privilege, time immemorial, granted to the fishermen. The boats are drawn on shore at the latter end of the winter, and placed in ranges on the lower part of the Steyne, and other places near to the sea ; and I have, in the beginning of April, with a great noise heard them drag them back to the sea, in the manner described by Horace. * Solviter acris hyems grata vice veiis et Favoni Trahuntque siccas machinae carinas.' 150 COAST OF SUSSEX. The bterval from labour is very sroall, for numbers of the boats are in the early spring hired out to dredge for oysters, to supply the beds in the Medway and other places. ^* The greater part of the fish are sent to London, packed in baskets, usually weighing about three quarters of a hundred in each ; they are put into small light carts, which go post, carry from fifteen to thirty baskets each, and reach our capital in eight or ten hours. ^* The mackarel are supposed to come from the Bay of Bis- cay. In the early spring they are taken off Dieppe; they next appear off Mounts Bay, where they are caught in seines, and sent by land to London in small baskets ; the shooting of nets has not been found to answer off the Cornish shore. They arrive in the Channel off Brighthelmstone in the middle of April, and continue tiU the middle of July; after which they will not mesh, but are caught with hooks, and are at that season nearly imfit for eating. In June th^y are observed to approach nearer to the shore ; they continue in the Channel till the cold season commences, when they go progressively north or east The fry is seen of very small size in October and November. ** The herring fishery b^ns in October ; those fish appear in great quantities along shore, and reach Hastings in No^ vember. The fishery is very considerable, and adventurers from every country engage in it* A boat has ten last of ten thousand each. The fish which are not sent to London fresh are salted or cured as red herrings. The nets resemble those used in the mackarel fishery, only the meshes are smaller; they are about twenty feet deep, and are left to sink of themselves. The congenerous pilchards are some- times taken here in the mackarel nets, but in very small quantities. ^^ Soles, the other staple fish, are taken in trawls in great numbers* The fishery begins in April, and continues all the summer: in April, 1794, the weight of two tons were caught in one night. I saw in the same month a heap of soles on the market beach, none of which were less than nineteen inches long. The other congenerous fishes were turbots, IbRlGHTOK. 151 generally very indifferent ; brills or pearl ; smear dabs ; plaice, and flounders. ^^ Various kinds of rays are taken here ; such as the skate (Br. Zool. ii. No. 30), the sharp-nosed (No. 31), the fuller (No. 53), the thomback, the sand-ray, which has sharp slender spines on the edges, opposite to the eyes; minute spines along the edges of the fins, and upon the fins like the fuller; the back and tail shagreened, marked with round black spots; the teeth sharp and slender. A ray, not un- common on the Flintshire coasts, is twenty-one inches long, of which the tail is eleven ; the nose is pointed, and semitran- sparent; two spines above each eye, and three placed in a row on the back ; three rows on the tail, of which the middle runs far up the back ; edges of the body from the nose to the anal fin rough, with rows of minute spines; back quite smooth, of a fine pale brown, regularly marked with circular black spots ; teeth quite flat and smooth. ^^ Of the shark genus, the angel-fish is not uncommon* The smooth sharks, or topes, are very numerous; they grow to the length of four feet. I saw opened several of this species, and can vouch for the truth of the young entering the mouth of the parent in time of danger, and taking refuge in the stomach. I have seen from twelve to twenty taken out of a single tope, each eleven or twelve inches long. This species is split, salted, and eaten. *^ I here met with the corbeagle of Mr. Jago (See Br. Zool. iii. No. 49) ; the length was three feet nine inches, the thickest circumference two feet and an inch. It is a rare species allied to the Beaumaris shark. The greater and lesser spotted dog- fish are very numerous. ^^ The common angler is frequently caught here and some- times of an enormous size ; from the vast width of the mouch it is called here the kettle-man. The launce, and two species of weevers, are very common ; the greater grows to the length of sixteen inches, is two inches deep, the weight of two pounds, and is a firm well-tasted fish. The fishermen have a great dread of the spines, and cut them off as soon as taken. 152 COAST OF SUSSEX. ^' The cod-fish tribe are rather scarce, except the whitings, which are sometimes caught in mackarel nets, but chiefly, with hooks. They are taken in April; but the best season is in October. I saw here the common cod, the whitingpout, the coal-fish, and the five bearded cod. " The doree is frequently taken ; I saw one of fifteen pounds weight, and the length of three quarters of a yard. I saw here the lunated gilthead and ancient wrasse, the basse, and red or striped surmullet ; the last small. The red and the grey gurnards were common. " Salmons are unknown here, which I am told is the case on all chalky coasts. The gar or needle fish are often seen here, and of great lengths. I shall not digress improperly in saying that the razor bills and guillemots, inhabitants of Beachy Head, are frequently caught in the mackarel nets, imwarily diving in pursuit of the fish. Prawns are in their season taken in vast abundance near the shores, which, wanting rocks to give shelter to the lobsters and crabs, those delicacies are brought from the more distant parts to the east. " Variety of corallines are found on the coast of this country and that of Kent : many of them are engraven in the ingenious history of that class of natural history, so admirably managed by my friend the late Mr. Ellis, to whom Linnaeus gave the title of Lynceus Ellisius ; but for some years before his death, by too great an exertion of his Lyncean faculties, he was totally deprived of even the common blessing of sight." . THEATRE. The Brighton Theatre, which fifty years ago was let for 60 guineas per annum, and some time afterwards produced 600, is now let at 1^00/. per annum to Messrs. Vining and Bew, the former a popular actor in London, and the latter a dentist, at Brighton, attending the Pavilion, who entered upon this concern in the summer of 1831. The abilities of the former gentleman as a manager are well known, and also his correct and gentle- manly deportment. The salaries allowed to the performers BRIGHTON. 153 are also said to be liberal. The Theatre is an externally un- ornatnented building in the New Road, with a plain portico ; but the interior is considered to be one of the most elegant out of the Metropolis. The prices have lately been reduced. The audience consists of two tier of boxes, a pit, and spacious gallery, with a wide corridor to the boxes : their fronts are white, handsomely ornamented with gold, and lined with crimson ; the drop scene is green and gold. The representa- tions are conducted in so very liberal and skilful a manner that they ought to experience a far more extensive patronage from those who are accustomed to attend dramatic performances. The scenery and other decorations are splendid, without any limit of expense. Several melo-dramas have been brought out in a very finished style : one of which, a local piece, styled the " White Hawk Lady," its "scene laid at Lewes, in the times of the De Warrens, exhibited much correctness and in- genuity. Ballets have also been introduced, some of which were pretty, especially Cinderella. We suppose that in any situation these have more of the essence of grace and beauty, in proportion to their being without gratuitous inde^ corum. The former, in a style not easily to be surpassed even in fancy, and unmixed with the latter, may be seen in some of the introductory dances of *^ Masaniello." The orchestra is respectable ; and the usual companies of performers comprise many individuals ci talent*. In addition to which, many of the most popular London actors have visited the Theatre during the last two years. That clever and respectable pair, Mr. and Mrs. Eeeley, are great favourites. The former^s *^ Dandy Cock Robin^' is very droll, and th^ latter*s ^^ Banks of the Blue Moselle,^ once heard, cannot easily be forgotten. That meritorious and enterprising youth, ^^ Jack the Giant Killer," of bean-stalk-climbing celebrity, made his appearance in a Pantomime last winter, and some equally famed fairy hero, or princess, will doubtless resort here each succeed- ing one. * A daughter of Mr. Vining, of engaging and artless manners, made her first appearance this year. 154 COAST OF SUSSEX. The Equestrian Troop, from Astley^s, was engaged here in 1832; and also performed privately before their Majesties, Sfn. at the Riding House. Mr. Cook^s company, which may be considered equal to the former, generally visit Brighton every year, and erect a spacious Circus in the north part of the town : these also were honoured by the King's patronage. We have been informed that the training of these wonderfully docile and intelUgent animals is accomplished in this school with mudi less rigour than in some others. ASSEMBLY AND CONCERT ROOMS. The large assembly and ball-room, at the Old Ship, is 80 feet in length, by 20 in width. Meetings of various kinds, public dinners, &c. are also held at this place. The apart- ment is handsomely decorated with splendid lustres, and has a gallery over the entrance, and an orchestra in the centre of the south side. The card-room is an oblong apartment of convenient size; its walls are very cleverly painted in fresco, with scenes from the adventures of Telemachus. The new royal concert and ball-room, in Cannon-place, is just completed, and belongs to Messrs. Wright, of the Colon- nade. It has a frontage of 124 feet towards St. MargaretV place, including two dwelling-houses; and the architecture is a fjEuiciful Corinthian, but much superior to that of the Assembly- room in the Town HalL The room itself is 60 feet long, 34^ feet wide, and 84^ high to the coved ceiling. The interior orna- ments are modelled after the Cfioragic MonvmiefU of L^si- crateSf and the fluted pilasters and entablatures 'bold and rich. The lighting is effected by 40 gas burners, disposed in chan- deliers of unusual magnificence, manufactured at Birmingham. This room has been pronounced, by various architects and musicians, one of the best adapted to its purpose in the king- dom ; and all its details are of a very expensive character. In addition to balls, concerts, and lectures, it is the intention of the proprietors to let this room by the night to those noble- men and gentlemen who may wish to give large parties, but BRIGHTON. 165 either not have convenience in their own houses, or are de- sirous of avoiding the trouble and disarrangement thereby occurring. The architect of this splendid room was Mr. H. Wilds; builder, Mr. T. Wisden. * Harmonic meetings are held at the Old Ship, and also at the Golden Cross, near the Old Steyne. RACES are held on the magnificent locality of White Hawk Hill, in the month of August, which continue during three days, and in addition to much company of high rank, have all the usual excitement and accompaniments of large fairs. HOTELS AND INNS are too numerous to particularise; amongst the best are the Albion, the Bedford, the York, the Old Ship, the New Steyne, the New Ship, the White Horse, the Norfolk, the Sea House, the Marine, &c. &c. Inns of a very respectable character occur in every direction of the town. 156 COAST OF SUSSEX. ** Tbey asked a wise man which was prefenble» fortitude or liberality ? He replied, < He who possesses liberality has no need of fortitude.' It is inscribed on the tomb of Bahram Goar, that a liberal hand is preferable to a strong arm. Hatim Tai no longer exists, but his exalted name will remain fiimous for virtue to eternity. Distribute the tithes of your wealth in alms ; for when the husbandman lops off the exuberant branches from the vine, it produces an increase of grapes." — SadL « Here shall soft Charity repair. And break the bonds of Grief; Down the barrow'd couch of Care, Man to man thus bring relief. ** Having spoken freely of the want of spirit and liberality in the inhabitants of Brighton on many occasions, we are very nHich gratified in being able to demonstrate unequivocally, by the following details, that they are not backward in feelings of charity towards misfortune and indigence. It is true that the donations of visitors form no small part in the aggregate of these contributions ; still we sincerely believe that the propor- tion of the former is by no means deficient SCHOOLS. NATIONAL. Number of children receiving education in Church-street : Boys . . 400 . 230 Girls Ditto in Lavender-street : Boys and Girls Infants In Upper Gardner-street : Infants Total . Secretaries, the Rev. H. M. Wagner and the Rev. T. Cooke; and under the patronage of their Majesties, &c. &c. &c. The * We are compelled to derive our information on these heads from the <* Brighton Directory," 1892, price 2s. ; an useful little work to those whom it may concern. 300 130 120 1180 BRIGHTON. 157 annual collections at the churches in Brighton for this institu- tion average about £200. The central school in Church-street is a lofty and handsome Gothic building, particularly as viewed from the west, and has the appearance of a collegiate halL The praiseworthy system of rewards is pursued here, to which the Marquis of Bristol is a liberal annual benefactor. SWAN DOWNER'S CHARITY-SCHOOL. Sixty-five girls are clothed and educated, &c., with the interest of i^OOO, left by Swan Downer, Esq., a native of Brighton. F£MAL£ ORPHAN ASYLUM, UNDER THB PATRONAOB OF HIB MAJESTY. 1 7 children are boarded, clothed, and educated. Treasurer, Miss Jeffries, 62, East-street*. UNION CHARITY-SCHOOL, MIDDLE-STREET. Patron, his Majesty. For all denominations of children. Boys . . « 250 Girls ... 1^ BRITISH SCHOOLS AND SCHOOLS OF INDUSTRY, UPPER EDWARD-8TKEET. 300 children. The premises are very spacious and convenient. Originated by Montagu Burgoyne, Esq. SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE, ETC. ETC. No account : — ^but the distribution of books very great, and an extensive depository at the central national school. Aver- age collections at the churches in Brighton, JP160. * We give the address of Secretaries, &c.f for the use of those visitors who may be induced to contribute. 158 COAST OF SUSSEX. BRITISH AND FOREIGN BIBLE SOCIETY. No account ; but supposed to be considerable. LADIES BIBLE SOCIETY. Ditto Ditto. TEMPERANCE SOCIETY. ** Quod dat 'ginis* in genitiTO." — Propria Qua Marifnu, « Eau de < JIforf.*" — Suggested French reading^ fas regards exeeu.) ** Burning spirits. ** — LaHn^ ** ardent** ** Art thou a ' spirit' of heakht or gobUn damn'd 9** — Shakespeare* Established 183% aided by a donation of <£100 from tbe Earl of Egremont Earl of Chichester president. — It is not for us to venture a judgment on institutions ; but whilst we admire the principle of this society, viz., the prevention of dmnkenness, especially from ardent spirits*, and all its desolat- ing consequences, we would respectfully suggest that they may be thought rather to overshoot the mark in requiring ' a pledge that the members will never touch spirits except as a medicine. There is reason in all things, and pledges are something like vows, which wise casuists and moralists re- commend the avoidance of, as snares to the conscience. The abandonment of their ^'grog'' by the Greenwich pensioners, which is surely not allowed them in intoxicating quantities, has a harsh and repulsive effect. Would not a pledge of avoiding all intoxication, to the utmost of their power^ be better ? But, on the great principle of the discouragement of excess in drinking, there cannot be two opinions amongst those who have seen the lamentably squalid state of so large a por- * A very proper hit was made at Govent Garden Theatre this winter, in exhibiting a miserably emaciated and shaking figure issuing out of a barrel^ with the title ** The spirit of Gin r — a good lesson for once } — ** ' — ridentem dicere verum^ " Quid vetat?" The judicious applauded earnestly : those in the upper regions did iiot» « More 's the pity." AU as well as trtne, << in reason," like <' roasted eggs,** are not discounte- nanced by Temperance Societies ; this mUder spirit (if it may be so called) being allowed to be nourishing. — *^ Spiritus intus ofit.*' • BRIGHTON. 159 tioD of the population of London ; which, from being one of the neatest, is in danger (which heaven forefend) of becoming one of the dirtiest capitals in Europe ; and who learn at the same time that this sad change is produced by the slow and cheap poison of gin — " Bltie RuivP truly, in a ribald phrase which we are almost ashamed to mention^ but is forced on the attention which is applied to the subject, — for it is nearly as bad as the Cholera. As for the conscious venders of this whole- sale poison it is vexatious to see them making rapid fortunes, whilst thousands in at least comparatively honest employments cannot obtiun a Uving. COUNTY HOSPITAL is a very neat edifice, standing on a fine elevated spot near Kemp Town, which was given by T, R. Kemp, Esq., with a donation of £1000 ; se of visiting and inquiring into cases of distress. The following observations, by an old but excellent writer (who was no ascetic), appear so extremely applicable to this point, that we have been induced to give them insertion : *' The giver should not lose the benefit of that personal acquaintance with sorrow, whidi strengthens the social ties, corrects the caprices of fastidious self-importanoe, and turns the narrow aims of individual gratifi- cation into gratitude to that Providence who appoints wealth as the STEWARD* and dispenser, rather than the consumer of its accumulated bounties. I might also add, how much this benovolent intercourse between the rich and poor, the great and lowly, enlarges the mind and improves the manners of both parties. When a lady of rank surveys a healthy group of young cottagers vying with each other for skill and adroitness at their various occupations ; watching with anxious glance the hour-glass, which, if early exhausted, upbraids them with having previously loitered, and reminds them of the probability of their dame's inflicting an additional task, she may form some notion of the value of the moments which she is anxious to waste; or when she sees the care-worn mother dividing the brown loaf in equal portions among her children, whose countenances brighten with the glow of pleasure, as they successively relieve the cravings of hunger, she may learn to compare the expenses of vanity and bene- volence, and to estimate their specific gratifications. But the bed of sick- ness, especially when attended by its ir^htful concomitant, penury, vnll aflford her the best lesson to check the repinings of discontent, and all the various pangs of envy, ambition, and pride, which teach the sickly daughters of spleen to quarrel with prosperity. On the side of the indigent, this social intercourse with their superiors would prove the best check to the democratical spirit that is let loose among them. They would find themselves often called upon to observe the attraction of graceful manners and the advantage of superior information. The narrow, but too general prejudice whidi has been excited against the apparently more favoured part of our species would be abated, and a grateful attachment to friends and benefactors would soon eradicate the ides, that Lords and Ladies are but poor creatures, were it not that they have got the upper hand in this world."— Afr J. Chapone. In the winter of 183 l-S, when the approfich of the cholera was viewed as a possible contingency, an augmentation of the means of this society was strongly called for, in order to effect some temporary provisions, when, by the united charity of visitors and inhabitants, the liberal sum of «£900 was con- tributed for that purpose. * « — Fruges eontwmere nati.** — Hoa. 162 COAST OF SUSSEX. JUBILEE BENEVOLENT ACCUMULATING FUND. 1809. Patron, the King. Stock, «£9S1, 8 per cent, consols. MATERNAL SOCIETY, 66, OHVBOH STREET. Patroness, the Queen. Income in 1881, 184Z. 19«. 2d. LYING-IN INSTITUTION, 64y HIGH STREET. Patron, the King. Income in 1881, 721. 18s. DORCAS SOCIETY, FOR PROYlOlNtf CLOTHES, BLANKETS, &C., FOR THE POOR. Treasurer, Mrs. Poole, 6, Castle Square. Income, 1831^ncluding sale of fancy articles, ^113 — 3192. 12^. 6d. SOCIETY FOR RELIEVING POOR WIDOWS IN THE FIRST STAGE OF WIDOWHOOD. Secretary, Mr. Penfoid, North Street. No account. . DOLLAR SOCIETY. 1813. So called fit)m its annual subscriptions of five shillings each, entitling individuals to recommend one person as an object of charity. Patronised by the late Queen Charlotte. No account BRIGHTON. 163 BENEFIT SOCIETIEa Two or three of these laudable institutions, which should always be encouraged, as conducing to the most unequivocally beneficial purposes*, exist in Brigliton; but we have met with no accounts of them. One is an United Fisherman^s So- ciety, for which a sermon was preached by the Bishop of Chichester, in 18S2, at the New Church, when £36 was col- lected for the purpose. SWAN DOWNER'S CHARITY. Twenty poor men and twenty-four women are annually clothed from the interest of £5000, left by this gentleman for that purpose. PERCY ALMSHOUSES. Mrs. Dorothy and Mrs. Anne Percy, who died about 1796, directed six almshouses to be built by their executrix, Mrs. Mary Marriott, and endowed them with the sum of <£48 per annum during her life, and £96 subsequently, for the reception of six widows of the church of England who had not received parochial reUef. A new gown and cloak is also given to them each second year. FANCY FAIRS. Considerable sums are annually raised for three or four institutions in Brighton, by means of these popular charitable contrivances. On this subject we notice a representation in Bruci^B Brighton^ 1831, adopted from the Brighton Gazette^ which imperatively calls for attention, especially as we have heard it strongly corroborated by those who are both competent • « Thej asked Hatim Tai if he had ever seen or heard of anj person in the world more noble-minded than himself. He replied, < One day, after having sacrificed forty camels, I went along with an Arab chief to the skirt of a desert, where I saw a labourer who had made up a bundle of thorns, whom I asked why he did not go to the feast of Hadm Tai, to whose table people repaired in crowds. He answered, < Whosoever eateth bread from his own labour wiU not submit to be under obligation to Hatim Tai.* I considered this man as my superior in generosity and liberality.***— ^odTtf « CAviEffton w Rose^Garden,^ m2 164 COAST OF SUSSEX. judges and entirely disinterested. It is this : — That however undeniably excellent are the motives of the originators and patrons of these modes of charity : — in a town like Brighton, where a considerable portion of the inhabitants are occupied in the manufacture and sale of fancy articles, an injury is caused which is no less than a counter-balance to the good which may be effected in other quarters. Thus we find the state- ment ; and, whilst we readily give it insertion here, we desire to add, that it is not within the compass of possibility that we should have any interested motive for so doing. We are fully aware of what we are doing ; we know, that not only almost all ladies of the highest rank in Brighton patronise or contri- bute to them, but that the Queen herself affords her patronage in a high degree, and also has sent contributions of her own work, which of course have been purchased with avidity. But we are sure her Majesty would prefer our stating that opinion, which, for the reasons above-mentioned, we have formed, than that we should avoid the subject with the unworthy caution of the sycophant. It should be remembered, that the parties so engaged, and who may suffer injury, are by no means of the lower class, or those who, if deprived of one mode of living, are fitted for others of varied or onerous exertion. Even if their prospects in life have never been higher, in the present stage of society, their manners and ideas are not suited for a descent to a lower grade. But they are too often those who have been reduced from higher birth and expectations ; a case formerly princi- pally read in novels, but now too true in real life. Hands as white, and eyes as dazzling, may be exercised in such employ- ments as those of the patrician beauties at the fancy fairs ; and we are certain, or we should not mention it, that the latter would never wilfully injure the former, even though the sacrifice were required of their most cherished predilections. They may be members of large and indigent families, for whom such employments are especially desirable — ^tbey may be orphans, of whom the frivolous, but not wholly corrupted sentimentalist observes, that ^ Grod tempers the wind to the BRIGHTON. 165 shorn lamb^ — or, lastly, they may be of that happy class (for they sJiould not be unhappy) who are thus engaged in ministering to the comfort of an aged relative or parent. These cases are not romantic or problematical; they are, at least, highly probable, if not ascerUuned to be true. . The romantic effect of a Fancy Fair, the theme of song and novel, is, doubtless, too pretty to be easily resigned ; but if the result be shown not to be that which its favourers would desire^ let some means of transfer be adopted, both of the mode of benevolence and the popular exhibition. What that should be, it is not for us to pronounce ; but it may be safely left in the hands of those whose ingenuity and spirit contrived the original expedient. Must any of John BulPs sons, in the present day, have something very attractive to their senses to allure them to acts of bene6cence and utility ? And will nothing move their dull hands and strike open the rusted clasps of their purses, but the electric flash from the eyes of rank and beauty f We are not entirely serious in what we are about to men- tion, yet we remember to have heard an enthusiast, but a benevolent one, actually recommend something very like it in spirit, though not in details, at a Chapel of Ease in Brighton. We remember to have seen, in the church of a large town in Normandy, a lady of rank and attraction walk round the immense nave, densely thronged with several thousand persons, soliciting from each an alms for the poor of the town, and acknowledging even a /fous^ and from the humblest individual, with impressive gracefulness. The appearance of an elegant figure, crowned with flowers, attended by one priest only, plainly attired, gliding through crowds composed of persons of the higher ranks, confusedly intermingled with peasants, mechanics, fishermen, and their families, in every species of costume, and files of military, had a suffidently romantic and interesting effect. We were informed also, that the principal ladies of the place took this oflice in turn every Sunday. That was, doubtless, something a little sentimental and Fretich in the mode, and some may seriously object to it, but if they 166 COAST OF susssx. had witnessed the apparently sincere good-feeling- at the time, their objections might have been greatly disarmed, on the principle of << Hani soU qui mal y penae^ THE POOR HOUSE, erected in 1801, above the old church, in a very healthy situation, is a plain, convenient edifice, of no iu*chitectural pretensions; its front is 190 feet in extent, and the average number of poor which it contains is 350. The internal arrange- ments are said to be very judicious. A small infirmary for the sick has lately been erected, at a short distance, a measure whidi confers much credit on its originators and supporters^ Belonging to the Poor-house are eight acres of land. Beyond this is the Cattle Market, erected in 1831-S; but which has proved 4 complete failure. MARKET. The new Market-house, west of the Town Hall, was erected in 18S0 ; it is a spacious neat building, having some resem« blance to that in Farringdon Street, Lond(xi, but on a more humble scale. A market of miscellaneous character is held every day in the week, but by far the greatest occurs on Saturday. West of this building, and at the back of North Street, is a dense collection of small *^ lanes,** as they are termed, though the diverging paths are only wide enough fot pedestrians. Here may be seen the humble emporiums of industry, indicated in shops of every description, each endea« vouring to attract the passenger by the promise of chea^mess. Here, too, on Saturdays, may be seen the anxious wife of the artizan, diligently seeking to lay out her small pittance, which the spectator often wishes were greater, in the most advanta- geous manner. THE POST OFFICE is situated in the New Road, and is very well managed ; the hour at which it closes is nine. BRIGHTON. 167 COACHES, &c. &a The number daily running between Brighton and London is not less than thirty, which start at all hours, and from five or six o£5ces ; together with others to a variety of principal towns, which the visitor will have no trouble in discovering. There are also commodious vans to London on springs. »- BAI(RACKS. The horse barracks are situated on the Lewes road, rather less than a mile beyond the new church, and consist of a neat regular pile of building, able to accommodate 650 men. Latterly, however, there have been only four troops quartered here ; but with the title of Head-Quarters and an accompany- ing band. The present regiment is the Srd Dragoon guards, which has replaced the Scotch Greys. The foot barracks are opposite the palace stables, and will contain 400 men. When his Majesty is at the Pavilion four companies are quartered here, which, in 1881 and 183S, have been those of the Cold- stream guards, who have generally either the whole or part of a band. \ It usually surprises victors, on learning that there is a military band in the place, not to be. gratified by hearing it oftener (on week days), and seeing a Uttle more of the ^^pomp \ and circumstance of war,*^ to break the monotony of the town^ to which even a hand organ is a relief. The Scotch Greys were accustomed to parade occasionally through the town. Of course it could not be expected that abstruse ^concerted pieces should be got up daily for the public gratification ; but even a little parade flourish, as at the Horse Guards, and a few com- mon airs, would sound ^^ silver sweet^ to the listless stroller. We should not object to the everlasting *^ blue hills of the Tyrol," should be very glad to hear ** the Greenwood Tree," or MUe Sontag^s Waltz, and should not even quarrel with '' the March in Blue Beard.'' \ > 168 COAST OF SUSSEX. CONSERVATORY, OR ORIENTAL GARDEN, NEAR ADELAIDE CRESCENT. The design of this institution is certainly novel — viz. to combine a conservatory with a promenade, and to furnish an erection competent to receive under its roof the trees of the eastern or western forest, as well as the exotic shrub and flower. An injudicious puff by some friend in a newspaper excited a slight prejudice by instituting a comparison between its dome and that of St. Peter's — for which we have, archi- tecturally speaking, a superstitious veneration. It is cer- tainly greater in span, though ^^rnany a mile^ .inferior in con- struction and ornament: and, vnth respect to mere size, if that were a criterion, Covent Garden Market would be a finer building than Whitehall or Somerset House. Besides, compared with St. Peter*s, this dome may be said to lie on the ground, being not much more than one fifth of its height (400 feet) ; whereas it was the boast of Michael Angelo, that he would not only build a dome larger than the Pantheon, then the most considerable, but raise it in the air. But setting this aside as a point foolishly mooted ; it is certainly the largest dome known to exist in the world , being 164 feet in span, which is 84 feet wider than St. Peter's, 56 than St. Paul's, and 76 than the Pavilion stables. It is constructed of iron and glass with brick abutments, and has a Moresque entrance on one side, with a covered walk surrounding the opposite semicircle, % feet wide : the height of the dome is 85 feet. If about half as much additional altitude had been attainable, it would doubtless have been an improvement. The interior is intended to comprise a splendid exotic garden — ^lofty trees, as cedars, palms, &c., — a basin for aquatic plants and fishes, — rock scenery for parasitical plants ; and the upper part of the dome will inclose birds in net or wire work. The whole will unques- tionably be a beautifully attractive place, and the temperature will be so regulated as not to be insalubrious. Subscriptions, per annum, will be ^2, 2^. for admission every day; or BBI6HT0N. 169 ^1. U. for Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. On these three days it Mrill be open to the public on payment of ls« each ; on the others, to the first description of subscribers only. The architect is Mr. H. Wilds : proprietor, Mr. H. Philips. SCIENTIFIC, OR LITERARY INSTITUTION. Some attempts have lately been made to establish a scientific and literary institution in Brighton, to which the inhabitants have been urged by the newspapers, whose Editors seem very uneasy under the imputation of Brighton being a mere water- ing-place. With submission, and without meaning offence, we ^hink that not only is Brighton a mere watering-place, but that it ought to be. It is especially adapted for that purpose^ was designed for it, and by it alone has arisen to its present eminence : had it established a scientific institution during the last century, it would probably have remiuned in statu quo. Why not be content with the honour of having the Temple of Hygeia? Why seek to force into it the attributes of the Portico? Here, if any where, the bow may be reasonably unbent. Milton himself would never have recommended science in Brighton ; for he blames those' who, « When God gives a cbeerfiil hour — ^refrain.** Every one has heard of the mishaps of a certain Mr. Jack (sur- name unknown), whose abilities and disposition were dete« riorated by having " all work and no play." Most people come to Brighton to play ; and to set them a task would be as un- gracious as for a physician to give a problem to be solved by a patient^ who required a soporific draught. They had much better, like Scipio and Lselius, wander on the shore and pick up shells and pebbles till they get an appetite for the cauliflowers and potatoes. ■ " Nugari et discmcti ludere donee Deooqueretur olus,"— " To speak well of the bridge that carries us over,'* is a common proverb, implying that the contrary would be great 170 COAST OF BUMBX. ingratitude. The genius of Brighton should not disdain to touch with her silken feet the staircase, up which, not many years ago, she toiled, barefooted, slowly, and humbly, to her now proud elevation. Will it be said, that such studies are every where required to raise our ideas of the power and goodness of God, the almighty and all-merdful, by whom we are fearfully and wonderfully made, and who is not far from any one of us ? They may be important and requisite in their time and place ; but are they indispensable here, where the magnificent conjunction of earth and sea is alone enough to elevate and soothe the mind, without telescopes, microscopes, diagrams, or lecture-rooms ? ** Awed by the scene, mj soul reveres The great First Cause that bade the spheres In tuneful order move : Thine is the sable mantled night. Unseen Almighty ! and the light The radiance of thy love." " 7%« World,'' 1770* Let the visitors of Brighton, then, confine their gee-ology to the horses of the place, to induce them to take them an airing : instead of burrowing in the earth after ^^dips^ of ^'siraUij^ let them take dips themselves in the sea, which, in blooming eiSect, may be '' Strata Florida;'* and walk quietly on the clifis to inhale the sea breeze, instead of climbing their sides with ladders, or being let down from their summits in tubs or barrels, to break the rock in pieces with hammers, in order to ascertain its consistence : and instead of poring through long cylinders at the stars, let them have licence to admire the eyes of the ladies. A literary institution is a different question. Such a one, styled the **' Athenaeum,^ was established some years back, and failed miserably, as we have been informed by those who suf- fered injurious pecuniary losses from it. BRIGHTON. 171 PROFESSIONAL PERSONS, &c. &c. It is not, of course, our purpose to include in this already protracted description a Directory of Brighton, especially as we have informed the reader that such an article is to be obtained there. We shall, however, put him in possession of the fol- lowing brief particulars. The number of physicians in Brighton is ten, and that of surgeons, &c. thirty-two. Both include names of great respec- tability ; and it would be highly invidious to single out any with a view of drawing comparisons, which are ^* odorous pa2a- braSy neighbour Verges.^ Still, every one has a right to men- tion his friends, especially if he also knows them to be deserv- ing. In this light we take leave to recommend Messrs. Badcock and Payne, St. James's-street. The members of the l^al profession are thirty-one. There is, however, another class of persons whom we choose to specify individually, for the two following reascms. First, that we know several of them to be talented and meritorious characters, whose labours are not slight, and their gains, to a certain degree, precarious. Next, that, as by the unanimous testimony of all, their support from the resident inhabitants is of a most ineffective character, there exists the more reason for their just claims being brought before the notice of visitors. And there may be some reciprocal advantage in the latter being directed with facility to suitable quarters. 172 COAST OP 8088EX. ARTISTS AND INSTRUCTORS. C Alpkabeticalki arramgtd,) MUSIC BLABPy nAKO, rWUSf, TLVTE, KTa ■!€. ANB IDroiHO. Mr. Charles Bond, 8, Upper North^street. Miss Chambers^. Misses Emily and Greorgiana Clements, (and anging,) 15, Marlborough-place. Miss Corrie. Miss Marianne De Cothi, ^ Cannon>plaoe. Mr. G. F. Dusart, Lower Bedford-street. Madame Ferrari, 71, East-street. Mr. William Gutteridge, organist to his Majesty, 16, Cas- tle-square, (musical warehouse,) and 68, London-road. Mr. John Kirtchner, 27, Grenville-place (Quadrille Band). -* Menckens musical warehouse, 41, East-street. Mrs. Joseph Nash, (and ringing,) 17, East Cliff. Mr. Edward Pettitt, 6, Cannon-place. Miss Mary Pickering, 29, Dorset-gardens. Signor Pozzi, (singing,) 19, Marine-street. Madame Sala, 18, Manchester-street Mr. E. Seller, 36, Grenville-place. Mrs. William Scott, 43, Regency-square. Madame Tabois, 10, York-place. Mr. Thomas Henry Wright, 144^ North-street, and Royal Colonnade. Mr. T. Wright, 6^ ElingVroad, and 3, Grafton-place. DRAWING. ULMDBOAPK^ PORTRAIT, ETC ETa Mr. David Barber, 17, New-road. Mr. John Booty, 3, Royal Colonnade. • This young lady's birth, her father's misfortunes, and her subsequent eonductf are, perhaps, too well known to render any observation necessary. She has been honoured with the patronage of the Queen. BRIGHTON. 173 Mr. John Bruce, 6, Pool-lane. Mr. Joseph Gordwell, 4, St. James*s-street/ Mr. George Crowhurst, Old Steyne. Baroness de Fabeck* Mr. Edward Fox, 3, Brighton-place. Mr. James Hardy, 163, North-street. Mr. John James Masquerier, 8, Western Cottages. Mr. Louis Parez*, 6, Regency square. Mr. Francis Carter Pollard, 32, Black-lion-street. Mr. Charles Scott, 85, West-street. Mr. William Scott, 43, Regency-square. Miss Emily Scott, (and portrait,) Do. Miss Maria Scott, (and flowers,) Do. Mr. Charles Woolcott, 30, Marlborough-place. LANGUAGESt. Signor Frederic Amati, 40, Montpellier-road. Mr. J. N. Binau, French and Italian, 19, Bedford-square. Mr. Charles de Cothi, 2, Cannon-place. Monsieur Desquarts, S4, Regency-square. Mr. C. Dusart, Bedford-street. Madame Ewalt, (German, French, and piano,) 2, St. Mar- garetVplace. Baron de Fabeck. Signor Louis Straccia, Italian, 34, Western-street. WRITING. Mr. Prideaux Rickards, (and mathematics,) 7, Western Cottages. Mr. WilUam Gresley, 18, Richmond-place. Mr. John Marchant, 49, North street Mr. S. T. Saunders, 6, Waterloo-place. * This gentleman has published a pictorial work on '* the Banks of the Loire.'* f A Spanish gentleman, of the rank of Don, does or did teach the Spanish language, and also the guitar, in darenee Places we have lost the reference to his namcy but think it right to mention the circumstance. 174 COAST OF SUSSEX. FENCING. Mr. Claudius Michelet> 4, Grand Parade. DANCINO. Mr. James Brown, 19) Gloucester-place. Miss Corrie. Mr. James Hervet D^Egville, 69^ Marine Parade. Monsieur, Mde, and MUes Michau, 11, Cannon^place. Mr. C. Wright, Royal Colonnade. SCHOOLS. The number of these of all kinds, both for young ladies and gentlemen, is about ninety. The principal for boys are^ Dr. Proctor's, Kemp Town; Dr. Everards\ Wick House; and Mr. FennePs, Temple. There are several handsome Bazaars in the town, which the visitor will easily discover. The lodging and boarding houses are by far too numerous to mention ; nor can we specify their terms, which, of course, vary considerably with the locality and time of year. PLEASURE BOATS. ''O Pescator dall' ondA Fi da lin. O Pescator dall' onda Fi da lin. Vien pescar in qua, CoUabella tuabarca, Colia beOa, ae ne ya; Fi da lin, lin la." Music is never heard on the water at Brighton, except in the case of a steam-vessel taking a trip to the Isle of Wight or Hastings; but nothing could have a more beautiful effect BBIGHTOK. 175 than either instrumental or vocal music on a calm sea, when it is <^ like a silver lake.^ We should think, if one of the larger description of pleasure-boats could set up a potable band, it would add very much to the attraction. The magnificent *' Fishing Chorus'^ in Masaniello would sound extremely appropriate; we should willingly hear any thing but the Chevalier Neukomm's ridiculous (saving his merit in other compositions) and ridiculously be-piaised song, *^The Sea.^ « We are where we would ever be," — -just now, out of the reach of hearing it*. The charge for row-boats, when the whole boat is tak^i, is Ss. an hour, dnd for sailing-boats Bs. ; but either take parties, and the individual sum is then very small. There are seven or eight large sailing-boats plying daily, which take parties for an hour and a half ^s sail, usually about nine miles, for about Is. 6d. each. Some of these are of con- siderable size, 80 feet long, and 15 tons burthen, cutter- rigged ; and this description of boat in a high wind and strong swell, is certainly safer than the lu^er-rigged, from the great ease and expedition with which the sails can be shifted. We have been on board them in quite as rough weather as most readers would desire, and should not easily fear for their safety. Whilst, on the other hand, the smaller boats are equally safe when the weather is at all calm ; and can sometimes be launched, and come on shore, with greater expedition. The occasional parties in these boats are often highly plea- sant to those who are at ease on the ocean; there is more interest, sociability, and excitement, than in the chance meet- ings in a land carriage. Rencontres with very agreeable persons are now and then thus effected, and renewed on succeeding days ; and such incidents are sometimes amongst the greenest. Oases in the chequered desert of life. • Efpecialijwith the accent and pronunciation of the streets of London : " Thursee— dnir a short distance on this side of Newhaven. The * carronades, it appears^ had formerly belonged to the Dragon sloop of war, which was wrecked on that part of the coast between three and four years ago. On examination, they proved to be both loaded, and to be but trifiingly injured from the great length of time which they had lain in the water." DESCRIPTION. Newhaven is a decently built little town^ without meanness as well as splendour* The traffic through it appears to be small, but the appearance of the harbour, as seen at a little distance, and particularly from the church hill, is cheerful, and indicates some employment. On the north of the churchyard is the neat monumental obelisk, erected in memory of the loss of the Brazen sloop, of eighteen guns, in 1800, off the Ave Rocks, near the town, when Captain Hanson, its commander, a distinguished seaman, who had lately made some extensive voyages, and all his crew of 105 men, with one exception only, perished. The names of the officers are recorded, and the inscriptions are irresistibly touching, indicating the strongest Christian resignation and hope under affliction. The tower of the church stands at the east end, with a small semi-circular recess for the chancel beyond it. It has two very ancient windows, which, though square-topped, have two Norman arches in each resting on a pillar. The body is modern, or modernised, with sash windows. The interior, though insig- nificant, is neat, with a handsome pulpit: it is divided into two aisles by small octagonal stone pillars. Galleries were erected in 1825 to accommodate 175 persons in addition, 1£0 of whom, by a grant from the society in London, are free. The arches of the tower appear to be early Norman. In 1831, the number of inhabitants in Newhaven was 945. SEAFORD. 189 The cliffs of Newhaven are about 200 feet liigh, of striking and picturesque formation. A full account of their structure will be found in Mantell's Geology of Sussex, 4to., a work of erudition, prefixed to which is an ingenious elucidatory disser- tation on the Mosaic history of the creation. Newhaven harbour is esteemed one of the best tide har- bours between Dover and the Isle of Wight ; having several times afforded shelter to ships of 350 tons in tempestuous weather. The principal importation is coal, which is carried up the Ouse a distance of twenty miles. Coastwise, foreign timber is brought and English oak exported for the use of the dock-yards ; also flour, butter, and corn. At the entrance of the harbour is a small fort : off tliis is also moored the Hype- rion frigate, as the head-quarters of the coast blockade of this district, from which supplies of men are occasionally drafted to various points, and it has three cutters attached to its operations. At the bottom of the town a small draw-bridge leads over the narrow river on the road to Seaford. Approaching this ancient port, now at a little distance from the sea, the shore is bold and wild, diversified with lofty cliffs, and an irregular strand intersected by several winding creeks : the views of the rocks of Newhaven are also striking. At the entrance of Sea- ford is a small fort. SEAFORD. HISTORY. This was a lordship of the Earls de Warren, one of whom, in the reign of Edward I., gave to the church and monks of St. Mary de Grestinen his customs and liberties of lestage, pontage, and passage in Seaford, which was confirmed by the king ; but we find that in the same reign Daniel^ the king's butler, had 7L rent in the same town, formerly belonging to Gilbert de Aquibu Edward II. confirmed a gift which Ri- cherin de Aquila made to the said convent. John, Earl of Warren, having no children, made over his inheritance by a special grant to Edward, from whom he received, as a recom- l90 COAST OK SUSSEX. pensCi for his lifci the castles of Conisburgh and Sandale and the manors of Wakefield and Halifax in Yorkshire. He died in 21 Edward III., when all his possessions fell to the crown, except a few which had been re-granted, with remainder to bia natural son by Maud de Hereford. In 42 Edward III., Mi- chael, Lord Poynings hdd it; at his death it was granted to Henry Fitzalan, Earl of Arundel, who having forfeited it by treason, Richard II. granted it, as a reward for distinguished •orrices, to Thomas de Mowbray, Earl of Nottingham, and afterwards Duke of Norfolk. But in 8 Edward lY. we find it assigned to Elizabeth his queen, for life. James I. in the fourth year of his reign, asngned it to the executors of Wil- liam, Lord Mounteagle, in consideration of good services done to him by that nobleman. ** 4 Jae. ReSy See, Salnteiii. Sciatis quod nos in oonsideratioiie boni seryicii nobis p' predilectum et fiddem subdictum n'm Willm Dn'm Mounteagle ad nominationem gus domusy et conoedimus Geo Rivera milid et Thome Bridges annigero hered' et assign' suis totum ill' Burgum n'm de Seaford in Com' nx'o, Sussex^ cum p'dn, p'cdl possession' Ducatus n'ri Lancastr' esdsten'^ ac omnes iUos redditus assis ib'm attingen's ad 58 solidos^ S denar p' an ; uecnon novos redditus ib'm attingen's ad S solidos et 2 de- narios p' an' ac perquisitiones curie ib'm coib's annis acciden' attingen' ad d solidos 9 denai^— Qui quidem Burgus de Seaford et oetera premissa p'odl dicti Burgi de Seaford p' particular' inde eztenduntur ad darum annu' valorem £2. 16s, Od." The nonal inquisition, in the reign of Edward III., is to the foUowing purport: « SEFFORD. ** Hec indentura testatur- q'd in'qs' capt' est ap'd Lewes xviii die marc' an® r r Edward' tert' post co'q'st xv** ooi^ Henr' Hnsee et so<^j8 suis venditor' et assess' ix' et q'ndedme garb' veil' et agn' in oomitat* Sussex' : £t oomp't* est p' Will'm Cowes Adam Hebbe John Tanner et Rob'tm Ooyer p'odii- anos ecd'ie de Seffbrd jurat' q' dicu't p' sac'rm suu' q'd ix' garbai^ p'och' p'dict' val' hoc a« xl*. It'm dicunt q'd n'o sunt agni neq' vdl' in poch' p'dict' et dicu't q'd licet ed'ia taxat' ad vii marc' tu' n'o possu't responder' ad taxam p' eo q'd vicarius ecd'ie h't oblat'oes q' val'nt p. annu' xxxiii*. It'm h't dec' navig* piscar' q' val' p' annu' xiii*. iiii'. Km h't decim' vit*lo'r et porco'r q* val't p' annu' vi«. viij*. It' dicu't p'dict' jurat' q'd su't no* mm'catoi's in vilT p'dictT q' no' vivu't de ag^cultura. Un' q'ndec' val't ii\| m'rc' et no' ultra^ q' p'ochia p'dict' p' divers' insult' inimico'r n'ro'r de Franda sepe et multiplidt' est destructa*^ ac hoi'es p'och 'p'dict^ oorp'alr Vlna't' et ocdsL In ccg' rd testimo' sigill' p'dico'r jurat' p'senf su't app'nsa." * An evidence of several French incursions. SEAFORD. 191 . I'he town is a member of the cinque port of Hastings. It returned members to parliament, from the twenty-sixth of Edward I. to the twenty-first of Richard II, without intermis- sion : the right was discontinued from that time to the reign of Edward VI., when it was revived, and continued to the pire- sent day. This borough had a Customal as well as the other cinque ports. One of the articles was, that the lord should not receive a heriot ; another, that the younger son should be his father's heir of land and other possesaons *• In this town was a hospital, dedicated to St. Leonard, for which the bailiffs and commonalty held lands in trust. Formerly there were four or five churches and chapels, and various foundations have been discovered, indicating that its size was once far more considerable. In the famous armament of 1347, it furnished five ships and eighty-one men f . Beneath the cliff is a round bastion of stone, imagined to be of the time of Henry VIII. A little east of the town is Cuckmere Haven. The History of Eastbourne, 1787, asserts that the Dutch offered 1,000,000/. sterling for the possession of this harbour, or the right of anchoring here, but were from policy refused : this story does not appear very probable. There were formerly two other batteries in or near Seaford, to defend the port. In the parish is Corsica Hall, a handsome mansion, and Chinting Castle, an ancient intrenchment ; and it gives the title of baron to the family of Ellis. In 1831, the number of houses was 198, and of inhabitants JL047. NEWSPAPER EXTRACXa 1783. 8lfI7«QIiEBS; DOWNS. ** Eirtract of a letter Jrom a gentiemath at Stctffordy Sussex, Sept, 18. — There is a most convement port^ about a mile from Seaford^ for smugglers to land their goods, and so daring are they become, that a dozen or more cutters may frequently be seen laying-to in open day. On Tuesday evening, between two and three hundred smugglers on horseback came to Cookmere, and received various kinds of goods from the boats, 'till at last the whole number were laden, when, in defiance of the kingf s officers, they • Burrell MSS: From Testa, de Nevill; Dugdale, Mon. ; and Rowe*8 MSS.— Account of Eastbourne, 1787. f Pennant 192 COAST OF SUSSEX. went iheir way in great triumph. About a week biefbre tfaia, upwards of three hundred attended at the same place; and though the sea ran mountains high, the daring men in the cutters made good the landing, to the sur- prise of every body, and the men on horseback took all away. '* Alfreston races begin on Tuesday next. It is only three miles from Seaford. I never was in so mountainous a country in my life. Go where you will, you are still surrounded by hills and mountains, and, what seems extraordinary to me, the whole is in a state of cultivation ; in some places com, m others turnips, potatoes, and all kinds of vegetables, without even a wall or partition to be seen. The variegated colours of the earth have an amazing pleasing efifbct. Those who have herds, have shepherds to keep them on their own ground. I rode yesterday about seven mOes over these mountains, upon the top of which, when I looked down, it made my head giddy." 1803. LANDING OF THE FRENCH. ** The Lewes paper, received yesterday, says, that one day last week despatches from the Commander-in-Chief, his Royal Highness the Duke of York, and Major-General Lennox, were received by the Colond com- manding at Bletchington barracks, stating, that the French, should they succeed in crossing the British Channel, would certainly attempt a landing in Seaford bay, and directing a strict and vigilant watch to be kept up in consequence. The purport of these despatches were next day given out in orders at the head of the regiment stationed in the above barracks." 1804. FARMERS. " It would be unjust not to mention the exemplary conduct of various of the fiumers in this county, on being unexpectedly called on to afibrd such accommodations to the troops, as, from the urgency of the case, they stood in need of; and which tlie following note, which was presented to Mr. Worgen, of Alfriston, will in some measure exemplify :— ** Head-quarters, Alfristoti, Friday fnomtn^, *' Lieutenant-Colonel Frith, and the officers of his Migesty's First or North Battalion of Hampshire JMilitia, cannot leave Alfriston, without returning their thanks for the obliging attention which they have expe- rienced from the inhabitants of this town and neighbourhood. They fed that they have been received as brethren engaged in one common cause;, the defence of their country, and all that it contains most near and dear ; and they beg leave to request, that Mr. Wargen will have the goodness to make their acknowledgments as publicly known as possible."— iTan. 9< 1807. PRIVATEER. " Dec, 28. — On Saturday morning last a desperate attempt was made by a French privateer to capture two loaded coUiere, lying-to off Seaford, a distance of thirteen miles from this town. In capturing, and sending off one, the enemy succeeded, and was proceeding to take possession of the second; the latter, however, fortunatdy mounted two or three swivels, a well-directed discharge from which, it is supposed, gave an unexpected quietus to several of the assailants." C( SEAFORD. 193 1809. STORM. Lewes, Dec, 7.— Early this morning signal-guns of distress, rockets, &C. were fired in the hay of Seaford, a distance of twelve miles from this place. The people in the neighbourhood hastened to the beach, when a most melancholy spectacle presented itself !~as many as seven vessels being ashore, the whole within the distance of half a mile. At day-break the scene was such as almost to pass description— men on rafts, others on the shrouds, while many were discovered washing from the decks— drew tears from the beholders -, but every exertion was used to preserve as many lives as possible. The following description, though only of a small part of this melancholy catastrophe, will, no doubt, prove satisfactory to the friends of those who have escaped a watery grave; the particulars of which have been collected from the crews of the different vessels: — ^* On Tuesday last the Harlequin hired armed sloop of war, of 18 guns, having under convoy twenty-three sail of ships, sailed from Plymouth, at four o'clock P.M. ; and on Thursday morning, about three o'clock, one of the ships was ordered to direct the fleet to keep within the convoy. About an hour after, the Harlequin, with six others, struck, and became total wrecks. The following are the names of the ships which are lost :— the Weymouth ship, four of her crew lost ; Traveller brig, Albion schooner, and Unice, crews all saved; Pramsitwibow ship, 14 lost; and Methedacht ship, all lost.— Farther particulars to-morrow." DESCRIPTION. The church is the nave only, or part of the nave, of one of the old churches of Seaford, with a tower, and a small rebuilt chancel. It has been barbarously repaired and defaced, with several projections and additions of brick-work ; but in spite of all injuries, has some vestiges of loftiness and grandeur. The tower, rather lofty, and with three slightly receding stories, which add much to its appearance, is chequered with flint and stone. The general style is the early Gothic * ; has lofty and bold arches two on each side of the nave, resting on circular columns, with foliated capitals; above these were large lancet-shaped clerestory windows, now under a roof which covers the aisles also. A strong pointed arch opens into the tower, above which, however, are the traces of a Norman one. In the tower are eight bells, re-cast by sub- scription in 1811, to the credit of the inhabitants of this small place, and an example to many others in Sussex, where the case is very different. A national school, for 100 boys and • Mr. Rickman has made a decided mistakei which is a rare instance with liim, in stating the church to be of the 14th centurj. O 194< COAST OF SUSSEX. 50 girls, is supported at the expense of the present members. The borough, from its small population, is of course dis- franchised by the Reform Bill. From Seaford to Eastbourne the road is hilly, and the sea in general lost to sight by the rise of the lofty cliffs; to the left of the road is a long valley, in which are placed, at small distances, several inconsiderable villages, very similar in appearance, with little gray churches and dark elm foliage. West Dean is the only one passed through, to which we descend a steep hill, through a pleasantly wooded lane. The village, on the right, appears considerable ; it has one large house, approached by an avenue of trees, belonging to the Willard family. The tower of the church stands, like a transept, at the middle of the north side, a variety of position not very unusual in this part of Sussex. Soon afterwards, the cliffs of Beachy-head, and the Light-house appear. We pass Friston church, belonging to a village of ten houses, and consequently of the humblest description, yet from its elevated situation, serving as a land-mark to vessels. The country opens on descending to the town of Eastbourne; the Sea- houses, 8cc. are seen, and the commencement of the long line of Martello towers indicates the level, which extends to Hast- ings, beyond which is seen Fairlight Down, one of the most commanding eminences on the southern coast. The hills on the right, in the form of an amphitheatre, or bay, seem to intimate that the sea formerly flowed some distance higher up. At the entrance of Eastbourne are barracks for a troop of horse, at present not occupied. EASTBOURNE. HISTORY. Eastbourne contests with several other places in Sussex the title of the Roman settlement Anderida. Pevensey and Seaford are its most probable opponents, as the locality of all the others is too far removed from the vicinity indicated by the plans and descriptions of the best authorities. We confess our total inexperience on the subject of Roman antiquities in Britain ; EASTBOURNE. 195 but we have procured for the reader a far more valuable source of information than any hints we could offer, in transferring to our pages the following perspicuous and erudite document in the BurreU MSS. :— OBSERVATIONS ON THE 80ITE OF AN'DERIDA. ** Avoiding the argaments of others^ which would swell to a volume, and attending chiefly to the short authorities left us^ it seems rather too difficult a task to fa. with certainty the precise spot of the Sussex coast on which Anderida stood ; he that can so do^ and please himself on the fair ground of truth and authority, leaving his choice open to no material ohjection, can do more than is in my power; and, it is to be feared, the more it is weighed and compared with all that has been so ingeniously urged on the snlgect, the greater will the difficulty appear. '* The learned Camden placed it at Newenden, in Kent; the sagacious Somner removed it to Pevensey or Hastings, but inclines to Pevensey ; our Lewes antiquary. Dr. Tabor, afterwards discovering a Roman bath and pavement, and wide-spread foundations, under ground at Eastboum Sea- houses, removed it to that spot, about four miles distance from Pevensey ; which last sdte meets with Mr. Horseley's consent in his Britan. Romana, and long had my entire approbation. *' But after all these were publi^ed, an old map and MS. account of RcHnan Britain, compiled by Richard of Cirencester, a monk of West- minster, temp. Richard 'the Second, which had found its way to Copen- hagen, was there discovered, and is since published, containing, though not a compleat and accurate account, yet the fullest and best state of Roman Britain hitherto known to the world ; great use has been made of this work by the ingenious Mr. Whitaker, author of the History of Manchester, who yet complains of its want of accuracy, and mistakes in certain parts of the work. I doubt the originals from whence Richard compiled it were faulty, as himself professes verity, and to have drawn his commentary from certain remains of a certain Roman General, by him left for the use of posterity, as well as from other authorities extant in Richard's days. Still, admitting some fault in Richard's work, we must not wantonly reject his authorities, as both his work and map imited give the largest and best state of Roman Britain we ever had, or are likely to have. ^' And here I take leave to dissent from Mr. IVhitaker's opinion, that Richard drew up this map himself; neither the title to his map, nor what he says of it in the body of his work, p. 40, will, in my opinion, justify the assertion, but that it was copied from very ancient records. Mr. Bertram, his editor, and Dr. Stukeley, his commentator, are both of my opinion ; for sorely mere Iters through the Roman provinces, without maps to apply those iters, would have been but poor blind guides to future Roman officers ; and that the Romans had maps of the then known world is evident from Claud. Ptolemy's Geographical Charts, and many others that might be mentioned. '^ The late learned Mr. Clarke, in his Treatise on Coins, published since Richard's work, in a note on Hastings, p. 451, still persists Anderida must o a 196 COAST OF SUSSEX. have been at Hasdngs, notwithstanding all that Dr. Tabor^ and Richard, and his Commentators, urge to the contrary^ upon good authorities ; whence I think it may be inferred^ Mr. Clarke had never seen either of these works, which are both well-founded contradictions of his assertion. '' From a view of Richard s map, we are led to think that the scite of Andetida was at or near Seaford, as being there placed on the east side the exit of a river flowing nearest the meridian line from London, which best suits with the Lewes river ; unless we can, from the faulty smallness of its scale, rather persuade ourselves Eastboum is meant, which would recon- cile it to Dr. Tabor's scite. *' Here an objection starts, as the map has assigned but two rivers, in- stead of fiYe or six, along the whole extent of the Sussex coast; the first is called Trisantinjluvius, supposed to be tlie Arundel river, as next to Reg- num or Chichester, and as Little Hamton still retains half that name ; aiul the other is called, in the lter,Andertda Portu, but in the map Anderida, and is there marked as a large sea-port town. Now the second, or next, river eastward from Arundel, is the Shoreham river, having its exit near Aldrington ; it may therefore be urged, this was the scite of Anderida,and not Seaford, as being the next river to Trisanton, agreeable to the map. Yet still the Shoreham river wants the peculiar mark of flowing nearest the meridian line from London, a property peculiar to the Lewes river, and at the exit of such a river stood Auderida, if we can rdy on Richard's map. " The fifteenth iter of Richard has a correspondency with his map in this particular, but will not help us out of the difficulty, for it proceeds from Regnum, or Chichester, to ^oJD^ctmam' (lapidem), or Arundel, ten miles, and from thence to Anderida Portu, as the very next station ; but a blank being left for the number of miles between these two last stations, it cannot be applied with any d^;ree of certainty^ and may as well annex this sdte to Shoreham as to Seaford. This fifteenth iter grows afterwards still more defective, for a vacuity wide enough for two more stations with their distances is left between Anderida Portu and Letnains, or Lime, in Kent; which vacuity, if we fix Anderida at Shoreham, or Seaford, I would wish to fill up with Eastboum, or Pevensey Harbour, and Hastings, as proper connecting distances from port to port. '^ The small scale of Richard's map, and the defects in his iters (not his own, I would presume, but drawn from defective originals), and his omi»- sion of all but two of the Sussex rivers in his map, are too uncertain guides to fix this sdte on positive unquestionable authority ; yet, so far as it goes in directing us to or towards the centre of the Sussex coast to look for Anderida, it draws our attention from the remoter sdtes of Hastings to the esst, or Shoreham to the west, and narrows the daim to some proper spot a little to the east of the meridian line, which best suits Seaford ; and if the faulty smallness of its scale be duly considered, it may admit of Eastboum as the place meant, though standing more east from the meridian. " The want of Roman remains near Seaford is not of itself a rejection of its daim, for many of the Roman forts and ports were long since over- whelmed by the sea; but it wants some of the properties annexed to Anderida by Henry of Hunt", viz. Seaford was a town standing in his tim^ and so was Hastings and Shoreham ; but Anderida was tlien destroyed. EASTBOURNE. 197 and never rebuilt, he says. Seaford had no neighbouring woods, from whence the Britains made excursions, and galled the Saxons in their siege of Anderida, and whither they flew when faced about upon by the Saxons, and from whence they frequently returned to the charge, and retreated again. I believe no such woods even grew near this place, and that all behind it was open downs. Such woods grew near, and surrounded the Estuary at Pevensey Harbour, and at Eastbourn ; and from the flat shore near Aldring- ton, much woods might have grown there in elder times, though now the whole IS mostly open arable lands : these are negatives in part to Seaford, and partly agree with Hastings, Pevensey, Eastbourn, and Shoreham. '* Again, as the Saxon conquests extended lengthways in Sussex, from west to east, and as Anderida was the last eastward fortified town which resisted and fell a victim to MUsl, so in course we must look for it more easterly than the centre of Sussex ; unless we judge it a place of such strength and consequence, that all submitted to the eastward, as not able to withstand the Saxon prowess after its reduction. " The existence of Roman remains at Eastbourn is dear evidence of a Roman settlement there of some sort, but whether as well there as at Pevensey, Hastings, Winchelsea, and Rye, to the east, as at Seaford, Shore- ham, and Arundel rivers, to the west, the later Roman Turres per inter' valla, mentioned both by Gildas and Richard, were or not placed, still remains a doubt with me, till the scite of Anderida be clearly fixed. These Turres per intervalla were, doubtless, members of the old Roman Ports, like the members of our modem Cinque Ports. Seaford is the present extreme western member of the Cinque Ports, and is the only member of the ports which sends members to Parliament; this privilege is some argument of its quondam importance ; and though Hastings be its head port, which has, indeed, priority over all the Cinque Ports, yet that priority, we learn, was obtained at the Norman advent, and given it by the Con- queror for the assistance it afibrded him before and after his conquest of this kingdom. '' If I might be permitted to give my opinion, after stating all this con- fusion of authorities, and doubts, and objections, Eastbourn sea^side will, I think, upon the whole, better answer all the properties of Anderida, mentioned in the foregoing authorities, or in any other authorities I have as yet met with on the subject, than any other place ; it was never after- wards rebuilt, and exhibited the ruins of a noble town in Huntingdon's days. It had neighbouring woods of oak, and plenty of iron thereabouts, as materials for the Roman navies; it had a good harbour near it, at Pevensey, which continued such till Henry the Third's time, and which was guarded by a strong casde, whose large remains are still in being ; but, as Mr. Hay says in his poem on Mount Cabum, ' Mliether of Roman or of later date, Remains a secret, which the leam'd debate ; Once a fair port enrich'd the fam'd abode. But herds now graze where royal navies rode.' '* Those who know the spot, find a place to the east of Eastbourn, and between it and Pevensey, called Langney, quasi Langaney, or Longwater; 198 COAST OF 8USSEX. and here, before the sea withdrew itwlf, seems to haye been a long gat of water^ commnnicatiDg from Pevensey to Eastbonm Marsh by the sea-side ^ this communication with Pevensey Harbour reconciles Eastboum to the idea of a sea-port ; add to this, a dock to the west of the Roman ruins under the Down, hinted at by Dr. Tabor, and the uncommon pleasant dryness of die spot, commanding a view across the bay to Hastings Clifi; adapts it of aU others in this quarter as most suitable to the sdte of Anderida. Here the bold headland of Beachy intercepted the view of the rest of the Sussex coast from Hastings ; but here a sentry, placed on the headland not two miles from it, might (to use Dr. Tabor s expression), in a dear day, without turning his body, see the Isle of Wight, the hills in France, near Boulogne and the Ness, in Kent ; so that, from the Ness to Selsea, it must have beea a small sail that could escape his eye. <' These are such striking diaracteristicks, such strong persuasives, of ita having been the spot of all others hereabouts most useful for a Roman Fort and Port, as could not well miss the obs^ vation of a people so remarkably skilled in the choice of sdtes for their purpose, as the Romans were. Yet all this, and much more that might be fairly adduced as arguments in its favour, will not, ought not, to weigh against the authority of andent evidences ; nor can the sdte be drawn away from Seaford, near which Richard has fixed it, but on the sole ground of the small scale of his map, where the distance of ten miles is no very great mistake, in the ground- plot of the whole kingdom ; and the mistake further favoured by its leaning on the east side of the meridian, as the map places it, and as Eastboum stands. I have but dropped this as matter of observation, not insisting on it as an authority to bias the opinion and judgment of others ; as all who are competent judges will, and ought to, exerdse their own opinions on the authorities before them." The Roman vestiges alluded to, consist of a pavement of white and brown tessens^ 17 feet 4 inches by 11 feet, and a bath, 16 feet long, 5 feet 9 inches broad, and Z feet 9 inches deep ; which were discovered in 1717. At the time of the Doomsday survey, Borne was the pro- perty of the Earl of Morton or Mortain ; and had belonged to King Edward, who kept it in his own hands : it contained 46 hides, had been estimated when he received it at 30 pounds, and was then worth 40. The next historical notice of the place is discoverable in that valuable record the Scucon Chronicle^ at the date of 1 114. <' A. D. 1 1 14. In this year held the king Henry his court on the Nati- vity at Windsor, ^nd held no other court afterwards during the year. And at midsummer he went with an army into Wales ; and the Welsh came and made peace with the king. And he let men build castles therein. And thereafter, in September, he went over sea into Normandy. This year, in UASTBOUllN£. 199 the latter «id of May, was seen an unoommon star with a long tnin> shin- ing many nights. In this year also was so great an ehb of the tide every where in one day, as no man remembered before ; so that men went riding and walldng over the Thames eastward of London Bridge. This year were very violent winds in the month of October; bat it was immoderately rough in the night of the octave of St. Martin ; and that was every where manifest both in town and country. In this year also the king gave the archbishopric of Canterbury to Ralph, who was before bishop of Roches- ter; and Thomas archbishop of York died; and Turstein succeeded thereto, who was before the king^s diaplain. About this same time went the king toward the sea, and was desirous of going over, but the weather prevented him ; then meanwhile sent he his writ after the abbot Emulf of Peterborough, and bade that he should come to him quickly, for that he wished to speak with him on an interesting sulject When he came to him, he appointed him to the bishopric of Rochester ; and the ardibishops and bishops and all the nobility that were in England coincided with the king. And he long withstood, but it availed nothing. And the king bade ihe archbishi^ that he should lead him to Canterbury, and consecrate him bishop whether he would or not. This was done in the town called BOURNE* on the seventeenth day before the calends of October. Wlien the monks of Peterborou^ heard of this, they felt greater sorrow than they had ever experienced before ; because he was a very good and amiable man, and did much good within and without whilst he abode there. God almighty abide ever with him ! Soon after this gave the king the abbacy to a monk of Sieyes, whose name was John, through the intreaty of the archbishop of Canterbury. And soon after this the Idng and the archbishop of Canter- bury sent him to Rome after the archbishop's pall, and a monk also with him, whose name was Warner, and the ardideacon John, the nephew of the archbishop. And they sped well there. This was done on the seventh day before the calends of October, in the town that is yclept Rowner. And this same day went the king on board ship at Portsmouth."— /fi^7*am« JVwuiatioB, u Roger de Wolphage heki a sargeantry in the hundred of Eastboum, which was worth 10 marks by the year, and the service of carrying the standard of the foot in the army of our lord the king. '' Edward 1.— Fulk de Cantelupe holds the manor of Bume of our lord the long, as the ancestors of Alard the Fleming, for the service of one knight's fee. ''Ibid,— The heirs of GUbert Frank held the third part of one knight's lee in Bourne, of the honour of Mortain. Testa de NevilL ^'4 Ed. 8. Philip Brode held land and tenements in the vills of Suthre and Eastbourne, from the king as of the honour of Aquila, by sergeantry^ for the service of guarding the outer gate of the castle of Pevensey. Harleian MSS. 708. '' In the rdgn of John this manor belonged to Roger de Coningsby, and was granted by Henry 3, in the 46th year of his reign, to Peter of Savoy, * t. e. East Bourne, in Sussex ; where the king was waiting for a fair wind to carry blm over sea. — Ingram* 200 C0A8T OF SUSSEX. Bartholomew de Baddlesmere obtained it in 7 £d. S. in exchange for the manor of Thundersleigh in Essex. Service, " Unum parclavium earyophiUr '' S £d. 2. Johes le Brode Bourne & Southe^ m. ibm. Pevenaey castr. Tower Records, No. 19. *^ Thos. de Roos, Miles, Eastbourne m. Na 48. '' The Rectory and advowson of the vicarage of Eseborne was in the possession of St. Pancras' Priory, Lewes, & granted at the Dissolution to Thos. Ld. Crumwell. " 9 Ed. 2. Barth. de Baddlesmere, son of Gunuline de Baddlesmere, m. Margaret aunt & cob. to Thos son of Richd de Clare, & obtained a charter for 2 markets every week at Bourne viz. Thursday & Monday & a fair on the feast of St. Mathew the Apostle ; as also for free warren in thisXidp. of wch he died seized 15 Edw. 2 (being hanged for rebellion,) when it passed to his son Giles de B. who m. Eliz. d. of Wm de Montacute E. of Salisbury & d. S. P. IS Ed. 3. & his four sisters were his heirs ; Eliz. his widow surviving had this with other manors for her property, worth p. an. 78/. 12«. ^d. She m. Wm. Ld Roos of Hamelake by whom she had two sons, the manor descended through several generations to Edmund Lord Roos, who was forced to fly beyond sea on account of his attachment to the house of Lancaster, but yet Philippa his mother seems to have found favour from Edw. 4, if one may judge by the grant he made (pat. 19 Ed* i, m. 16. per Inspec.) to her Snd Husband Thos. Wingfield Esq. (of the manor of Eastbourne amongst other manors) & her part of the possessions of Thos. Ld Ross attainted. ^' 23 Ed. 3. Hugo le Despencer, Eliz. Ux. ejus Relicta Egidri Baddles- mere, Borne m. Tower Rec. No. 169.->31 E3. Agnes ux. Thomae Baidolf, Eastbome (qu. m.; Do. No. 48. ''33 Ed. 3. Eliz. ux. Hugonis le Despencer, Bourne m— Tower rec. No. 42. '' 7 R. S. Thos. Roos de Hamelake, Bourne m. No. 68. '' 3 H. 5. Beath. ux. Thos. Roos de Hamelake, Eastbome m. No. 44. ** 9 H. 5. Johes. Dns de Roos. Eseborne, m. cum war. et wreoo maris ptin. Tower Rec. No. 58. ** 7 Ed. 4. on the forfeiture of Thos. Ld. Roos for his adherence to die Lancastrians, Jn Tyrtot E. of Worcester obtained a grant from the king on the behalf of Philippa his Sister, wife of that Lord, of this Manor, inter aL S Dug. Bar. 41. Pat. 7 £. 4. p. 1. m. 18. '< 13 Ed. 4, June 5, the Manor of Eastbome parcell of the possessions of Thos. Ld. Roose, was granted to Anthony £. Rivers, to hold to him and his heirs male. <' 24 H. 7. Edmond de Ros d. 13 Oct 1508, S. P. his 3 Sisters became his heirsj the eldest of whom Elenor de Ros, m. Sir Robt Manners of CraUe Castle Northd. & had 2 sons, 1 Geo. 2 Edw. & 2 daurs. 1 Eliz. 2 Cidlle, Isabel de Ros, ^d daur. m. Thos. younger son to Sir Ridphe Grey of Werke in Northd. " 2 Ed. 6. Edw. Burton ob. 5 martii. ao. 2 Edw. 6 Job. Burton frater et heres tertia pars roaner de Eastbome. See parti*^ in Eastbome Burton. Bodley MSS. Vol. 186. p. 10. ''6 Ed. 6. Robti Pashele et al. tenz. an, feod in Boume, (Inq. capt. 6 Hen. 6.) EASTBOURNE. 201 "19 Eliz. Eastbourne m. cum p'ti'n ac SO mes. 90 toft SO gard. 30 pomar. 450 acr. terr^ 40 past', 200 Jarop'n & Bruer. 20 marisci frisd, et 23 redd' cam p'tin & 70 acr' pastur' SOO Jamp'n & Bruer.vis. frandplegii & Hundr. de Eastbourne ac Wreco maris cum p'tin in Eastbourne alibi p. Hen. Goring ar., & al et herid, II ; Goringe de Joh'i Lelwyn ar. & ux. tent in p. 1. d 21 Jan. 1 » E^z."— All from the Burreli MSS. The only notice of Customs inserted is the following : **2 R. 2. — The Court held at Eastbourne the day after St. Lude Jno. Bayne and William were amerced for selling of a porpoise fishe from the lord contrary to the custom of the manor.'' Nonal Inquisition, temp. Edwardi III, *' Hec indent'a testat' q'd inq's' capt' apud Lewes xxvi die martii anno r. r. £. t'qj a conquestu q'ntoded'o cor' Henr' Husee & soc' suis collector' & assessoribz ix"* garb' veller' & agnor & xy* in com' Sussex' d'co d'no r^' ooncess' virtute co'missio'is dc'i d'ni reg^ eisd'm direct* p' anno gusd'm r^' xiiij® sup' vero valor' ix« p'd'ce in p'och' de Estbome p' sacr'm Joh'is de Horsy e Rid' de Horsy e Walt'i Bat 8c Joh'is Pygg p'ochianor p'och' p'dc'e jur' & exa'rator qui die' q'd ix'^ p's garb' in oulem p'och' de t'r' unde x* p'tinet ad ecd'iam p'ochiate valet hoc anno sc'dm vera' valore' xxvi'J yj* viij** & ix* p's veller' & agn* in ead' p'och' val't h' a» sc'dm vera' valor' iiy^ yj' viy'*. Et s* est s'm ut'usq' xxx^* xiij« iiij**. Un' pore' Luce Scot qui est de lib'tate q'nq' portuu' h*it terr' in ead' p'och' un' nona p's garb' val' hoc anno xxi' iiij'*. Et die' q'd p'sonat' d'ce p'och' extendit' ad xlv" xiij' & ii^'' & vicar' ejusd' p'och' extendit' ad xiij»» vi» viij**. Et s'c est sm' ut'usq* extent* Ix". Et die' p'd'd jur' q'd ix» p'd'ca ad d'cm extent' attinger' no' potest q' die' q'd rector d'ce p'och' h't unu' mesuag' in d'nico cu' domilz gardinis & curtilag" und' dc'a eccl'ia dotat' est & valt hoc anno xiij" iiij<<. It die' q'd h't Ix acr' t're in d'nico ut de dote d'ce ecd'ie et valent hoc a« Ixxv^. It die' q'd h't j molend' vento ut de dote d'ce eccl'ie & valent hoc a« xxx>. It die' q'd h't ix acr' p'ti in d'nico und' d'ca ecd'ia dotat* est & valent hoc anno xxvij*. It' die' q'd h't pastur' ad c. lib' und' d'ca ecd'ia dotat' est ac valent hoc anno iiij-. It' die' q'd habet pl'ita & p'q's' cur' & vis' f 'nc' pl'g' cu' finilz natior & chevag' gar'conu' und' d'ca ecd'ia dotat' est & valet hoc anno xx*. It' die' q'd h't o'pa custumar' unde d'ca ecd'ia dotat" est & val- ient hoc anno xvig* ij''. It' die' q'd h't de redd' ass' p' annu' und' d'ca ecd'ia dotat' est et valet hoc a° cxix' ijJ. It' die' q'd h't pensio'es qlz a» und' d'ca ecd'ia dotat' est & valet hoc a° Ixxij' & viiji*. It' die' q'd dedma feni^rosett'^vit'lor, lactis^ pi8car',& alie minut' dec'ie und' d'ca ecd'ia dotat' est valet hoc anno x*^ vj'- ^^* ^^' ^'^ h't decima' in den' mn'nat' p'dpiend apud Motecu'be de antiq^ cons' und' d'ca ecd'ia dotat' est & valet hoc a° x*. It' die' q'a oblat'o'es und' d'ca ecd'ia dotat* est val' hoc a* lxx% It'm die' q'd p'or hospit' s'ti Joh'is de Jerem' h't in d'ca p'och' xl acr. t're que so- leba't sda'ri & no' sd'ant' boc ao und' ix' garbar valer' solebat ooi'bz an- nis XV. It' die' q'd Rob't's de Passde h't in ead'm p'och' 1 acr' t're que solebant seia'ri Sc no' sei'ant hoc anno unde ix garbar vider' solebat xx* x**. It' die d'd jur* q'd rector ecd'ie de Fekynton h't in ead' p'ochia q'md'a po- 5B0S COAST OF SUSSEX. rio'em X* girb' de qidbuada' tV no' ded'and' ad eod'iam p'd'cam unde nona p's garb' yalet hoc aano xi^ • iiy**. It' die' d'd jure q'd p'or de Lewes h't in d'ca p'och' q'md'a porc'oem x garb' de q'biuda' t'r' no' deci'and' ad d'cam ecd'iam und' ix' p's garb' valz hoc anno xl*. £t die' d'd jnr' q'd no' eat atiq's in ead' p'odi' nid tanta' illi qui vivu't de agricnltur' & p'ficuo agn' & lane & edam de labor' suia necaliq'a cardinal b'n'fidat' in p'odi' p'dc'a. In q'm om'i' test'm p'd'd jur' huic' indentur' sigill' sua appoaueni't. The church belonged to the treasurer of Chichester Cathe- dral, and is thus valued in the 87th year of Henry VIII. ^'niGNITAS THESAT7BIATUS IN EOOL'iA CIOEBTREN: HUGO ROLFE CUOUB THBSAURABIUS INDE. ''The farm of the Rectory of Estbome within the Ardi- deanry of Lewes appropriated to the said dignity, namdy> in yarious tenements, lands, and glebe quit-rent, with one wind- mill, within the parish of Estbome aforesaid, per annum, . 66 13 4 " Out of which payments (repris*) deducted according to the form of instruction. " To two men sacrists of the aforesaid cathedral for ever annually pdd by the sud treasurer, from andent foundation thence, 600 " Perpetual Alms : " Given annually at three times of the year to the poor of the Vill of Estbome, aforesdd^ from andent foundation and custom, per annum, 60 shiDinga* " Fees of the Recdver and Seneschal : " John Alen, Recdver of the aforesaid Treasurer, per annum, 13 4 " John Stempe, Seneschal of the land of the aforesaid Trea- surer of the church, per annum, 13 4 "Sum of the aforesaid reprisals deducted, . . . .468 " And is worth dearly, 62 6 8 " Thence the tenth part, &C., 6 4 8 _____ Printed Records. NEWSPAPER EXTRACTS. 1784. Extract of a letter from Etut Bourne, March 2. — " Yesterday evening two cutters from the continent landed their cargoes a short distance from tliis place, great part of which was conveyed away by men with horses, but leaving some bags of tea behind, the officers carried them i^way, to the amount of 900L bdng all hyson." 180S. Etut Bourne, Oct 5.— "Every thing here is on the alert to recdve the enemy: the whole of the 11th Light Dragoons have been ordered from their different out-posts, and are stationed at Hastings, Boxhill, and South Bourne. Yesterday morning the Sussex and Gloucester Militiaa marched into this place from Brighton, and are encamped between South Bourne and Pevensey: they immediatdy commenced making intrendiments, &c. £A8TBOURN£. 208 fram the Se^-houaet, which axe to be condnued along the coaat to HaadngiB. The above regiments marched from Brighton on Monday moining with flying camp equipage— on the same evening pitched their tents near Blackington ; and on Tuesday morning had their camp utensOs packed, and on the line of march in seven minutes. Three regiments of regulars are hourly expected to occupy the spacious barracks erected on the Shingles. We have also a company of South Bourne Artillery, a set of fine spirited fellows. The 4th Raiment of Dragoons marched into Brighton on Tuesday morning. ^' The army is in the highest spirits : the brigade I am attached to is in the best state of health, only six on the sick list ; so small a number has never been known." DEFENCES. "Nov. 16. — Lieutenant-General Sir James Pulteney arrived this day, and is to take the command of the troops stationed on this part of the coast The infantry are still busy throwing up intrenchments. Ninety- four 24 pounders are to be erected on this part of the coast. Two battalions of the 48th foot mardi into Pevensey barracks to-morrow." 1804. " October.Some coasting vessels are at this time ashore near Beachy Point, but great hopes are entertained of getting them afloat again, as they have hitherto received but little injury ; crews all safe." 1792. INTERISTING EBOAPE. " Brif^hthelfnstone, SepL S3. — ^Among the distressed emigrants who have lately landed on our coast, there ixe few whose escape seems more wondcf^ fid than that of Madame la Visoomtesse de Sesmaison, who, on Tuesday lasty with four children, their preceptor, and two servants, landed at East Bourne, from a very small open boat The Comtesse (whose husband left Paris with the French Princes) remained in France as long as it was poesiUe ; but, being well assured that she and her children were marked for destruction, she got down to Dieppe, meaning to make her escape in a packet then lying off*, and actually contrived to get her luggage on board it The sailors engaged in this service told her she was noticed by the people; and, if she did not immediatdy put off in a small boat, they would certainly be stopped. Accordingly she embarked in the boat, supposing she should be soon put on board the packet ; but was shortly informed that she had no prospect of escape, but by trusting herself and children to the hand of Providence, whose immediate interposition seemed requisite to preserve them in a dark and tempestuous night, exposed to the elements in their rudest state, and in a boat scarce big enough to contain them. Their little bark was borne in safety over a tremendous sea ; and, in twenty-four hours, this interesting group arrived off East Bourne, where, hobting a signal of distress, they were with much difficulty brought on shore. Their debarkation was rendered truly affecting, by the deportment of each individual around them. The anxious cares of the mother were strongly displayed, and could be equalled only by the tender assiduity of the ddet of her children towards her, while the two youngest, insensible of the actual peril of thdr situation, were, with equal assiduity, endeavouring to 204 COAST OF SUSSEX. shelter from the ^ind and rain then: two dolls, which they had with much care rolled up in their frocks." 1804. DEFENCES. " Temporary harracks^ to accommodate 900 infantry and 200 cavalry^ were began at Hastings on Saturday. Barracks at South Bourne^ for 800 infantry and 200 cavalry^ were also began on Monday last. Temporary barracks are likewise to be completed as soon as possible at Pevensey^ Chichester, Arundel, Battle, Box-Hill, Shoreham, and Blatchington. The barracks here are to be considerably enlarged, and several bams, &c have been lately hired or purchased, to be converted into commodious receptacles for troops. The sluices at Pevensey are undergoing considerable improve- ments and repairs, that, should the enemy attempt a descent on that part of the coast, the level will be immediately inundated, and they will have to contend with the united influence of fire and water." ^' The fishing-boats which were dispersed in the late gale have aU returned safe to this place.— The following is an extract of a letter received here this morning from a gentleman resident at Eastbourne : ' We have now before us a distressing sight— four vessels completely wrecked, two brigs and two sloops, the disjointed fragments of which are floating on the billows in all directions. Six were on shore, but two fortimately succeeded in getting off^ with little damage, a brig and a sloop, and are making for the first port to refit. The crews of those which can never put to sea again were providentially all preserved.' '' We had a ball last night at the Lamb Inn here, at which many of our military friends, and others of rank, were present. Among many, whose names I cannot now recollect, were Brigadier-General Maitland, Colonel Dufi^ Ms^or Vandeleur, Mr. and Miss Gilburd, Mr. and Mrs. Rogers, Mr. and Mrs. Burrough, Msjor and Miss Bean, the beautiful Miss F. Vidler, (who for elegance of manner, and correctness of step, is the best dancer I ever saw,) Miss Smith, &c. The graceful diversion, with all possible spirit, was continued until nearly day-break." *^ The Sussex militia, encamped near the bleak summit of Beadiy-head, strike their tents on Wednesday next, and commence their mut:h for Colcliester barracks."— Oc<. " November, — The Hope coasting vessel, from Liverpool, was lately run down and sunk, off Beachy-head, by one of our cutters. The unfortunate vessel was laden with pipe-day, the crew of which were happily all preserved." '* Aiigvst^In spite of the menaces of the enemy, this little watering place has to boast of the fullest season ever known." SHAM FIOHT. « Extract of a letter from Eastbourne, dated Oct 27 :— Our camp breaks up on the 1st of next month, and the regiments go to Lewes, Worthing, Shoreham, Chelmsford, Steyning, and Pevensey. The campaign closed yesterday with a grand sham-fight, in which the following regiments EASTBOURNE, M5 divided into three brigades, under General Lennox, Brigadier«>General Maidand, and Colonel Duff, took a part: the Sussex, Dorset, North Hants, Glamorgan, and South Herts Militia; the 8th, 23d, 48th, and 88th, of the Line, together with the artillery, and two squadrons of the 11th Light Dragoons. The light infantry companies of General Lennox's brigade, with the rifle corps belonging to the Sussex Militia, personated the enemy, under the command of Major Calcraft, and maintained the advantageous positions the country presented with great firmness and sKdlL The brigades advanced with precision, and kept up a very steady and well- directed fire. Indeed the business was well managed, and is said to have met with the complete approbation of Lieutenant-General Sir J. Pulteney, who commands in this district, and superintended the whole. The day was fine, and the concourse of spectators immense. No accident hap- pened, or any mistake, except that two companies of Militia were, or might have been, completely cut to pieces, by rashly advancing up a tremen- dous height, under a very heavy fire, into the jaws of the enemy. A squadron of Dragoons, attached to cover their retreat, must have shared the same fate. The whole were considered as prisoners of war." 1806. '' No work has been done to the Martello towers, erecting on the Sussex coast, since November: they are, however, in a considerable state of forwardness, and we understand the workmen are to resume their opera- tions early in the spring. The largest, which is at Eastbourne, is of a circumference and thickness that requires upwards of 50,000 bricks for the completion of a single course." " Brighton, Aug. 27. — The troops stationed about the vicinity of East- bourne, were in the field on Saturday by ten o'clock, at which time the Duke of York was expected to review them. His Royal Highness, how- ever, did not arrive there until three in the afternoon, when some soaking showers of rain falling, the intended business of the day was postponed untQ yesterday morning. The troops yesterday were in the field at seven o'clock A.M. The Duke reviewed them soon after eight, and in the after- noon took his departure for Oatlands. It is here generally understood, that the Sussex Militia leave this place to encamp on the sunny summit of Beachy, on Wednesday next ; and that the South Gloucester Militia march into this town from Hailsham barracks, on the same day." DESCRIPTION. Eastbourne is a place of resort which we feel strongly inclined to recommend to all those who require a keen and animating air, for which it is almost unrivalled ; a genteel, yet small watering-place, and the beauty of country scenes and stately trees, almost close to the sea. It consists of three townships, containing, in 1831, ^7£6 inhabitants. Eastbourne town is a mile and a half from the beach, the Sea- houses, and Southboume, which lies between the two. The 206 COAST OF SUSSEX. walk to the sea passes by, or leads through, the grounds of Compton-place, the seat of the earl of Burlington^ a pretty and commodious, though unpretending villa, with neat grounds, conservatories and lodges, and some fine trees*. Nearer the town is the seat of Davies Gilbert, Esq. M.P., which has also some noble old trees, and sequestered park scenery. The Sea-houses, which form the actual watering-place, are irregularly ranged along the beach, with no great extent or beauty, but they have a social appearance, and comprise lodging-houses, baths, and the usual requisites. Amongst the places of amusement are, a library, billiard-rooms, and a small theatre, in South-street, open during the season. Ob the right of the Sea-houses, part of Beachy-head is seen at the distance of two or three miles'; to view which, aquatic excur- sions are often made, when the tide serves : it turns a softened fiEu^e, however, towards Eastbourne; its more tremendous heights are concealed by a winding of the shore. To the left the sweep of the Martello towers is seen in perspective, and when brightened by the sun, has a lively effect. Nearer the Esplanade, but a short distance further inward, is a large circular Fort or Redoubt, of considerable strength, bomb-proof, and capable of containing about three hundred and fifty men, with provisions for several weeks ; it mounted about twelve pieces of cannon. The circumference of the ditch, which is twenty-three feet deep, and apparently forty or upwards broad, lined with masonry, is upwards of three hundred yards. A clerk of the Ordnance works resides here, also a Deputy Vice- Admiral of the coast, from Newhaven to Rye, agent to Lloyd's, and vice-consul for Sweden and Norway, Mr. R. B. Stone, South-street. The Lamb Inn, at Eastbourne town, is a very comfortable one, and moderate in expense ; there are also others deserving of praise. The Assembly-room, which is a very neat one, is • ** The house (Lord George Cavendish's) is a veiy good bride buildings and a comfortable habitation in winter as well as in summer, the walls being thick and weU sheltered. Good dining, drawing, and oUier rooms, and gallery, from whence are pleasing land and sea views ; some remarkable fine tapestry, being the history of Don Quixote, and some tolerably good pictures by Sir P. Lely and Sir Godfrey Kne\ier."~^DeseripiwH of EoMtbowne, j-c. 1787. EASTBOURNE. 207 at the Lamb : one of the cellars of this Inn has a groined roof, indicating it formerly belonged to a religious house, and another shews the commencement of a subterraneous passage leading towards the church, which has been stopped up. At the sea-houses is the Anchor Hotel, also the King^s Arms ; in South-street, the New Inn, a posting-house also, and the Star. Each of the townships contains lodging-houses; and, about half a mile from the Sea-houses is a chalybeate spring, called Holy-well, said to possess qualities equal to those of Bristol, which will, no doubt, be eagerly sought by those who may desire similar benefits. Eastbourne has four respectable medi- cal practitioners, two ladies^ and one gentlemen^s boarding- schools, and a number of shops of general utility. Eastbourne church is one of the best in the county, has a fine tower of pretty good height, though its elevation appears to be lessened by the ponderous buttresses; the masonry is very excellent. The church, viewed from the S. E., has really a majestic appearance, in ^ite of the barbarously modernised great window of the chancel, under which is a small projecting vestry. It has three aisles throughout, sepa- rated by eight arches on each side, and is, exclu^ve of the tower, \24i feet long by 50 broad. The principal features are early Gothic, strong pointed arches, with both circular and octagonal pillars, having flowered capitals. Most of the win* dows have been inserted in the fourteenth century, and are very neat ; but some of the upper ones on the north side are decidedly Norman. The arch opening into the middle chan- eel is also of this character, but has the singularity of a high- pointed arch blocked up above it, which we cannot explain. On the south side is an arch of circular shape, over four seats or recesses; there is also much wooden screen-work. The western aisles are strengthened by two cross arches, from the side walls to the nave, with buttresses or turrets outside. On the north side of the altar is the monument of Dr. Henry Lushington, who died in 17799 and had been forty-four years vicar of Eastbourne ; and of his son, Henry Lushington, of whom we learn the following particulars : — That he ^^ went to 208 COAST OF SUSSEX. India at the age of sixteen, and was one of the few survivors of the unfortunate persons confined in the Black Hole at Cal- cutta. By a subsequent revolution, in 1763, he was, with 200 more, taken prisoner at Patna ; and after a tedious imprison- ment, being singled out with five other gentlemen, was, by order of the nabob. Ally Kawn, deliberately and inhumanly murdered. But, while the sepoys were performing their savage office on the first of the sufferers, fired with generous indignation at the distress of a friend, he rushed upon the assassins unarmed, and seizing one of their scimitars killed three of them and wounded two others, till at length oppressed with numbers he fell, at the early age of twenty-six years.**' The north and south chancels are used as private burying- places ; at the end of the northern one is a handsome painted window, erected at the expense of J. Gilbert, Esq. : it is formed of old stained glass, and contains some good figures. The interior of the church is decent. In the tower is a small organ, presented by J. Gijbert, Esq. ; near it a monutnent for Dr. Brodie, late vicar of this parish, with a high encomium on his solid professional worth and liberality, and his great attention to the welfare of the young, which is still remem-* bered by the inhabitants. We are informed that he ofiered a donation of 200/. towards refitting the interior of the church*. In the tower are eight bells, recast from six. Of the strength of these, in former times, we were told a curious anecdote. The fifth bell of the old peal, weighing eighteen or nineteen hundred weight, broke its axle whilst on the full swing, burst through two floors, providentially missing the person ringing it, struck the arch of the tower, and deriving an additional impetus sunk into the pavement about a foot, without the slightest crack or bruise from its precipitate and ponderous * The present yiear is tbe Rev. T. Pittman, M. A., a gendeman not un- known in the literary world, and from whom we experienced much courtesy. The living is reckoned rather a superior one for a vicarage. It may serve as a caution against some very unfair misrepresentations occasionally met with, to state that we were assured by a respectable inhabitant of Brighton, bom at, and formerly resident at, Eastboiu'ne, that the annual value was not less than 1500/ ; but thinking this improbable, we made an inquiry, the result of which was, that he had as nearly as possible trebled the actual amount. BEACHY HEAD. 209 descent. The great bell of St. Sepulchre's, London, weighing thirty-three hundred weight, fell down a few years back, but was sustained by the beams of the floor beneath ; yet, from this far slighter shock, the bell, which was a modem one, was broken*. BEACHY HEAD is about three miles distant from Eastbourne, and of course a favourite ride or walk in summer : in winter, the stormy gusts would be too repulsive. This is doubtless one of the finest marine eminences in Europe, whether seen from above or be- low ; in the latter course, however, some degree of fear (pro- nounced by Burke to be essential to the sublime), and pity at the recollected calamities it has been the scene of, will mingle in the conflicting feelings. ** Quem mortis dmuit gradum Qui siccis oculis monstra natantia, Qui vidit mare tuigidum, et Infames scopulos, AcroceFaunia?** Or we may borrow the application of a not less forcible and beautiful description from the pen of the elegant Fenelon : — ^^ Le pilote experiments apper^oit de loin les montagnes de Leucate, dont la tete se cache dans un tourbillon de frimats glaces, et les monts AcrocSrauniens, qui montrent encore un front orgueilleux au ciel, apr^s avoir ete, si souvent, Scras6s par la foudre.^ The perpendicular height of Beachy Head from the sea, on the best estimate, is 575 feet-f-. An excavation below, con- * << Near tbe road leading down to the Chalk Cliffs are the remains of a building, called St. Gregory's Chapel (so named in letters patent establishing the corporation of Pevensey), and the fields and hill are now distinguished by that name. The bells belonging to it are said to have been carried to France, and now actually used either at Rouen or Dieppe, in Normandy.** — Eastboumej 1787. f This is more than 100 feet higher than the cliff at Dover, immortalized in the tale of Lear ; fifty feet higher than the spires of Strasburgh and Antwerp, the loftiest in the world ; and 100 feet higher than the great Pyramid of Egypt* Samphire grows here also, but we do not hear of similar perilous means being resorted to to procure it. The name of this plant is said to be corrupted from Saint Pierre, its French appellation : the botanical term is crithmum mariti- ffium, from the Greek K^id^«f , its seeds having a resemblance to those of barley, i* SIO COAST OF SUSSEX. sbting of two apartments, ascended by a rude staircase, acces- sible only at high water, is called '^ Parson Darbt/s^* and is said to have been the work of a clergyman of that name at East Dean, a mile and a half distant, who formed it from con- siderations of humanity, visiting it in heavy storms, and hang^ ing out lights as an indication of refuge to wrecked mariners ; an emplojnnent which is said ultimately to have caused his This herb seems to dinde its allegiance and attachment between earth and water, always growing on the sea-shore, yet on spots so far above the level of the water as not to be wholly covered by it. A ciuioos incident, which we cannot suppose will be deemed uninteresting, depending on this peculiarity, is related in the Lewes Journal, November 19, 1892. « During a violent storm in November, 1821, a vessel, passing through the English Channel, was driven on shore near Beachy Head, and the whole of the crew being washed overboard, four escaped from the wreck, only to be de- livered, as they thought, to a more lingering and fearful, from its being a more gradual and equally inevitable, death ; for, having in the darkness of the night been cast upon the breakers, they found, when they had climbed up the highest of these low rocks, that the waves were rapidly encroaching on their asylum ; and they doubted not that, when the tide should be at its height, the whole range would be entirely covered with water. The darkness of the night prevented any thing being seen beyond the spot upon which they stood, and which was continually decreasing by the successive encroachments of each advancing wave. The violence of the storm lef); no hope that their feeble voices, even if raised to the uttermost, could be heard on shore ; and they knew that amidst the howling of the blast, their cries could reach no ear but that of God. What human arm could give assistance in such a situation ? even if their distresses were known, how vain were the help of man ! The circle of their existence here seemed gradually lessening before their eyes ; their little span of earth giadoaUy contracting to their destruction. Already they had receded to the highest points, and already the infuriated waters foUowed them, flinging over their de- voted heads the foremost waves, as heralds of their speedily approaching disso- lution. At this moment one of these wretched men — ^while they were debating whether they should not, in this extremity of ill, throw themselves upon the mercy of the waves, hoping to be cast upon some higher ground, as, even if they &iled to reach it, a sudden would be better than a lingering death ; in this dire extremity, one of these despairing creatures — to hold himself more firmly to the rock, grasped a weed, which even, wet as it was, he well knew, as the lightning's sudden flash afforded a momentary glare, was not a fiicus, but a root of samphire, and he recollected that this plant never grows under water. This then became more than an olive branch of peace, a messenger of mercy; by it they knew that He who alone can calm the raging of the seas, at whose voice alone the wind» and the waves are still, had placed his landmark, had planted his standard here, and by this sign they were assured that He had said to the wild waste of waters, " hitherto shalt thou come, and no further.'* Trusting then to the promise of this angel of the earth, they remained stationary during the remainder of that dreadful, but then comparatively happy night ; and in the morning they were seen from the clifis above, and conveyed in safety to the shore,**— J5unt« a great number of the small domiciles of the jAg class ! There are situations, however, when even a pig-stye may be picturesque ; they certainly remind us here a little of some of the arrangements of Robinson Crusoe, the side-walls and roof of their apartment^ which serves individuals or families for *^ parlour and kitchen and all,*** being frequently a natural cavity of the rock, with an artificial fence to the play-ground in front; the situation is very sheltered, and the denizens seem perfectly contented, and are by no means shy of the passing traveller, whom they hail with zealous, though rather monotonous, strains of untaught melody. The particular reasons for the establishment of the porcine colony here we did not learn. The cliff is very noble in parts for about a mile from the town, where there is a little break or inlet ; and this is a very desirable walk : if the pedestrian should return about sunset, he will be delighted by its beautiful effect on the romantic town. The various beautiful walks or rides within three or four miles from Hastings give it a superiority over most places along the coast; in this respect it has an immeasurable ad- vantage over Brighton, whilst as a town it is nearly as in- ferior. We shall not dilate on these, because we have no intention of superseding the small local guides. They com- prise every desirable variety, lofty hills, splendidly wooded vales and secluded glens, brooks and fountains, a ^* lover s seat,^ with a romantic tale that may recal the " Pirate'' of the lamented novelist, though this has a happier termination ; small villages, fruit-gardens, &c. &c. ; in short, either to the lovers of the grand or the soft in nature, there is little left to desire. ST. LEONARDS. 237. ST. LEONARD'S is one mile and a half due west of Hastings. An omnibus plies between them several tiroes in the day, without^ we rejoice to say, any oppression of the horses, so much to be regretted in London *. It is also, when the tide is favourable, a pleasant boating excursion. The road passes by Wellington-square, a desirable part of the former, and over the small Priory bridge, when it approaches the sea, and soon reaches the White Rock, a small eminence, where was formerly a battery of three large guns, taken out of the San Josef, a powerful Spanish ship of 11^ guns, captured by the gallant Nelson in 1794. After passing this commences a range of unfinished buildings, which exhibits a tendency to connect St. Leonard's with Hastings; in fact, this would be a desirable consum- mation. At present they have separate interests ; and while that state continues, there must, in the course of things, be jealousies and oppositions between themf; whereas, if St. Leonardos be made to form a *' new town^ to Hastings, the mutual interests of both will be strengthened, whilst the feeling above mentioned, which is always to be deprecated, will be abolished. The mother and daughter will then play into each other^s hands without the matronly and girlish enmity of Honoria and Flavia, in the Spectator^. Visitors will then select which part of the united town they prefer, whilst the public advantages and institutions of both are open to their resort. If such a junction does not take place, it seems highly probable that one or the other will suffer from mutual opposition. ^^ Vaulting ambition^' in one or both of the rivals * What could those official persons, whose care such things should bei be thinking of, when they licensed these ponderous machines, carrying eighteen persons, to run with two horses ? which seem to be never inspected. If they occasionally walked the streets, and witnessed the miserable and pitiable man- ner in" which good horses are necessarily ruined by these unjust tasks, they would, perhaps, revise the enactment. f In fact there is no more incompatibility than between Kemp Town or Brunswick-square and the old town of Biighton. \ For an illustration of this, see Botwelts JohnMon^ article Pfymouih Dock, 23S COAST OF SUSSEX. will ^* overreach itself and fall on t'other side.^ These hints are thrown out without the slightest shadow of an interested motive; let the high contending parties look to it, and be timely wise. CONQUEROR'S TABLE. A piece of rock in this vicinity has been reported to have formed the table on which William the Norman dined after his landing : the only drawback to this romantic association is that it is not true^ as it is certain he landed much nearer Pevensey. It is, howeveri *^ so like truth, 'twill serve the turn as well C or as Horace phrased it long before, *' Ficta TolttptstM cMuA sint proxima veiis." SITUATION, &c St. Leonardos being more open to the bay of Pevensey and Beachy Head, possesses a keener atmosphere than Hastings, between which place and Brighton it is considered to form a medium, and is therefore suited in summer to those for whom the air of the very sheltered town of Hastings would be too mild and relaxing. It follows, as a mattar of course, that it will not be so desirable for them in winter. ENTRANCE, OR EAST LODGE, is a good Doric elevation, with fluted columns, in the style qS an ancient triumphal arch : it is of almost the greatest possible ellipsis, but has a bold and solid effect which is not unpleasing. *' MARINA," the appellation given to the whole sea line of buildings, is a conceited Italian term, which we cannot abide ; but this must not blind us to the merits of the case. The architecture of the various piles is very fine indeed, variously decorated with Corinthian and Ionic columns, and with long and low piazzas in front of the basements, with occasional breaks also forming squares ; and another street of handsome architecture at the back. The style is different from either Kemp Town or gS9 BT. LEONARDS. Brunswick Terrace at Brighton, and comparisons are odious ; but for its especial purpose, nothing could have been conceived better. THE ESPLANADE is, we suppose, one of the finest in Europe. Its close con- tiguity to the sea renders it superior to the western one at Brighton, to which its length, however, as a whole, is not equal. It is well faced with stone, and not only varied with a grass-plat, but also with flower-beds, a most happy addition. It reminds us more of the Esplanade at Weymouth than any others which we have seen. Bathing-machines and pleasure- boats are in attendance, in sufficient numbers; and a sub- scription band plays on the terrace in summer. The inns, baths, &c. &C. are, we understand, executed with every modem refinement of splendour and comfort. Here, as at Hastings, there is a suflicient number of respectable medical gentle- men ; also of artists and instructors. Amusements are not yet separately established to any extent in the new town ; the visitors who wish to engage in them resorting to Hastings. The Assembly-rooms, however, in which frequent balls are held, compose a grand and elegant structure of the Doric order, consisting of a centre and two wings of considerable length, with a fluted portico at the entrance, and a pediment at the other extremity. One wing is used as a Billiard, and the other as a Card-room. The portico will challenge the applause of all spectators of taste ; it is light and lofty for its order. The ball-room is spacious and very handsome, with a receding gallery for music over the vestibule, a coved ceiling with medallions and a fresco border, and neat glass chandeliers. Divine service was performed here before the church was completed. A neat Library is kept by Mr. Southall on the Esplanade, and another by Miss Powell, outside the East gate. The resident inhabitants, a short time back, did not much exceed a thousand ; but no doubt this number will be consi- derably increased. 240 COAST OF SUSSEX. THE CHURCH, of which the first stone was laid by the Princess Sophia, in October, 1831, is now approaching completion. It is to be regretted that the style and proportions were not on a grander and more ornamental scale ; it cannot be fairly said to be worthy of St. Leonard'^s. It is of the thirteenth century, neat in detail, but petty ; on the sides are large laDcet win- dows, not in the best style ; the interior will contain 800 per. sons without side galleries^ for which the breadth would scarcely suffice : at the east end is a handsome and lofty arcb, opening into a small chancel recess, and at the opposite end a lesser one opening into the steeple, which will contain a small organ. The upper parts of all the windows will be filled with stained glass. There is also^, we believe, a national schI. THE SUBSCRIPTION GARDENS occupy a small sheltered and gradually rising valley, between two hills at the back of St. Leonardos ; on its sides are several villas, as in the Park at Brighton, principally Gothic, and handsome in effect, but scarcely desirable here, as they encroach on the limits of the gardens. The space is small, but appears much larger from the inequality of ground, and the various trees and shrubs. In different parts are hermitages, arbours, a fountain, and a pond for aquatic birds which is also used for skating in the winter. The concern is in its infancy, and we believe an aviary has been commenced, which will ornament the shrubbery with beautiful plumage, and lively notes, and probably music will in time be added. One of the Gothic houses on the east side, let as a boarding- house, has a small steeple and clock, which is kept up for the public benefit. The north lodge, above the gardens, which opens on the road to Battle, is a neat specimen of a small gatehouse of the 16th century. The environs of St. Leonardos are of course the same as those of Hastings. ^' HASTINGS 1 m 17' TO HURSTMONCEUX AND PEVENSEY. MILES MIUBS BULTSRHTTHK . . . 4 HU1I8TM0N0BUZ • * li NINFIRLD . . . . . Si WAB1XWO . . • . 2 BOBEUAM . . . . . S PEVENSEY . . • . 4 «0* Pass through St. Leonard'^Sy and by Bulverhythe Sluice, formerly a harbour, but now completely choaked up. An in- ca significant river or brook here runs up into the country, on the r^: banks of which are levels abounding with snipes, wild fowls, ^i and plovers. The name of this place is Saxon. A ridiculous allusion to the old Phoenician tale of a btUl V hide has been told of it, but without any foundation. Off Bulverhythe, the Am- sterdam, a large Dutch ship, heavily laden with costly articles, was stranded, and sunk irretrievably into the sands, in the year 1743 : the crew, we believe, were saved. After the sands have been washed up by a violent sea, the ribs are occasionally vi- sible at low water. Attempts were made by adventurers, in 1827, to explore the lower part, and recover some of the cargo, when they obtained several pieces of the manufacture of Ghent, Bruges, and Antwerp, comprising China-gilt jars, in good pre- servation ; goblets, wine glasses, and bottles, figured with gold; knives, with broad blades and carved handle?, &c. &c. which were sold to the curious at very advantageous pricesf . We are here again reminded of our interesting old friend Robinson Crusoe, and should have much liked to have shared the ex- citing investigation. Soon after leaving Bulverhythe, the road turns off to the right of Bexhillt- • The direct road firom Hastings, by which the visitor may return, is only fourteen miles. f Jones's Hastings Guide. f Bexhill was a fiivourite residence of St. Richard, the canonized Bishop of Chichester, who died there. B 24^ COAST OF SUSSEX. We passed through Sedley Green and Ninfield, the latter a small respectable village, noted for some ladies^ schools, with a little gray church, of one aisle, and a wooden steeple. Here the view opens finely towards Beachey Head. We avoided the angle formed by Boreham, a hamlet of the parish of Wartling, seeing to the right, at Windmill Hill, another hamlet, a handsome and loftily situated house, belonging to E. J. Curteis, Esq. ; and soon after entered the old and wild-looking domain, once a park, of Hurstmonceux *, and perceived the grand old quadrangle, with its various angular breaks of tower, turret, and oriel stretched nobly beneath us, within the outline of its spacious moat, and contrasted by a variety of trees of vene- rable and decayed appearance, dispersed singly or in groups^ along the edges of the surrounding eminences. Hurstmonceaux Castle was built in the reign of Henry VI, and is one of the oldest brick mansions in England. " From the reign of Richard II.> when de la Pole's house was bdlt with brick at Kingston-upon-HuIly to that of Hen. VI., I meet with no evidence of brick being employed as a material in building, but in the first year of Henry VI. a licence was granted to Roger Fiens, Knt, &c. &c. &c. '' This noble house, which is wholly built of brick, in the castle style, is stQl standing complete, and is, perhaps, the largest house, belonging to a sulgect, in the kingdom : no doubt it was built, not merely embattled, at the time the licence was obtained, the whole being built upon one plan. It is worthy of remark, that the art of making brick was then carried to such perfection, though it should seem to be but in its infancy, that this vast structure has stood the brunt of weather for above three centuries^, particularly of the salt corroding vapours arising from the sea, to which it is greatly exposed, without suffering the least injury in any part of the walls, insomuch that hardly a single brick shews ihe least mark of decay." '-JBp, LiUUion— Antiquity of Brick Buildings in England since the time of the Romans, 1757. Our Plate must be allowed to be highly creditable both to the draughtsman and engraver. The reader must, however, bear in mind, that grand as it appears, the part of the building here represented is only two-thirds of one of its smallest sides. • A brief history and description of Hurstmonceux Castle and its posses- sors, a very tastefully written pamphlet of thirty pages, price 1«., was published at Windmill Hill, in 1824, and is sold by the parish clerk, at Hurstmonceax^ a very honest and civU man, who is the Cicerone, The pamphlet, to which we are not without obligations, will he found well worth the money ; and we men- tion this, that we may neither injure the author nor the vendor. HtJRSTMONCEUX. S43 Prior to the Conquest, the estate, then called Hyrst, was the property of Earl Godwin, and was then given to Earl de War- ren ; but, a few years after, we find it transferred by some means to a Norman family, who assumed its name, one of whom added that ot Monceux^ the name of his mother, who was bom at Compton Monceux, in Hampshire. In the rdgn of Ed- ward II* it passed, by marriage of the heiress of Sir John de Monceux, to Sir Richard Fiennes*, afterwards Lord Dacref^ in which family it continued till the year 1700, when one of tliem * The noble fiunily of Fiennes had been constables of Dover Castle from the Conquest to the reign of John, who gave them in exchange the manor of Wendover, Bucks. An Ingelram de Fiennes married a daughter of the Earl of Bologne, of the race of the illustrious Godfrey, and was slain at the siege of Acre. t Vaux (a name which will recall the Lord Chancellor Brougham and Vaux to the reader*s mind) was the primary and Norman appellation of this fiimily, who were Barons of Gillsland, in Cumberland, and one of whom was <* Ronald de Vaux, of Triermain," the legendary deliverer of King Arthur's punished daughter, Gwyneth, who had slept, by Merlin's magic art, in the evanescent castle of St. John, "five hundred years and one." — (Scott*s Bridal of Triermain.) — Robert of GiUsland, temp. Henry II., founded the noble priory of Lanercost, whose Holy Rood, in ancient times, was esteemed so fiunous : he was also, as well as his son. Sheriff and Custodiary of Cumber- land and Carlisle. The latter castle, during his presidency, sustained a siege by William, King of Scotland. Afterwards the barony passed, at different periods, by marriage of its heiresses, into two other fiimilies ; first, that of Moulton, from Henry III. to Edward II. ; and, in 1307, to Ranulph de Dacie, whose ancestor had been Sheriff of Cumberland and Carlisle, temp. Henry HI. We need not repeat their connexion with the wardenship of the Marches. — When Sir Richard Fiennes, by marriage with the heiress, was, in the year ... at her grandfather's death, created Lord Dacre, Sir Humphrey Dacre, her uncle, was re-created Baron of Gillsland ; hence there were two specific Barons of the ancient title respectively called Dacre « die 2e North** and ^dele South*** Of the Fiennes Lords Dacre many individuals are recorded to have possessed noble qualities of piety, domestic affection, and general charity and humanity. — « Francis Lord Dacre, temp. Charles I., was one of those recommended by the Parliament to the Kjng for Lords Lieutenant of Counties, and had Here- fordshire assigned to him ; but, finding that the power was (by various acci- dents) transferred into hands who were running every thing into confusion and anarchy, he would by no means be brought to act with them, but opposed their measures ; and at length, when he found it was impossible to do any good there, he absented himself from the House of Lords (as did several others of the Peers), till the ordinance for trying the King was brought in, when he again appeared there, in order to give his public testimony against it, being one of the few peers who (as the author of the Parliamentary History expresses it) had the courage in that dangerous time to meet, and make the same resolution*** -^CoBins, ^44 COAST OF SUSSEX. having dissipated it by extravagance at the court of Charles II. *, whose natural daughter. Lady Ann Fitzroy, he had married, and who was created Earl of Sussex, sold it to G. Naylor, £sq. Subsequently it was in the possession of Dr. Francis Hare, chaplain and friend to John the great Duke of Marlborough^ afterwards Bishop of Chichester. It has undergone two or thr e changes since that time, and is now the property of a gentleman named Gillon, who lets the house, built (not by him, but a Goth of the last century) with the materials of the castle, to G. M. Wagner, Esq. Mr. Gillon is, however, the proprietor of the castle, which may be viewed at all times. Names of high renown are thus connected with the impression made by this interesting building. Who knows not the ancient lineage of Dacre ? None but those who have not drank at the fountain-head, and viewed the dawn of the *' Last Min- strel's*" bright apd beautiful career f. The " hot Lord Dacre** * He came, however, very young to court, and was early made a Lord of the Bedchamber, when he lost much by play. The latter part of his life was passed at his estate, at Chevening, in Kent ; << in which parts he always preserved a great interest and influence, and was much beloved on account of that sweets* ness of temper and affability for which he was ever remarkable.'* — Oofltiw. f Of an infinity of biographical sketches and tributary eulogiums of thia la- mented individual, perhaps none are superior to an early one which appeared anonymously in the Court Journal. The trait of character developed in the following paragraph may be dwelt upon with eager pleasure, as both a soothing and elevating contrast to the too generaUy acid and envious spirit of the gaws irritabile vatum. There are characters who take a pleasure in depreciating all accesses to moderation with the epithet of "milk and water;** we do not like milk and water, but, in the alternative, should much prefer it to gall and vinegar. ** Were we permitted to inscribe our opinion among those who believe that the name of Scott will go down to posterity with that of Shakspeare, as a legitimate heir of Fame, we should incline rather to point out the fine moral spirit, the noble warmth of humanity breathing through every line of his works ; and the untarnished virtue which, throughout all the vicissitudes of his career, elevated and strengthened the aspirations of his genius. Equally devoid of envy, guile, and arrogance. Sir Walter was, of all the readers in England, the first to sympathize with the successes of his < better brothers,* — fQj/.J Byron, Moore, Campbell, or Rogers; — to applaud and encoursge the competition of writers of lesser glory, such as Gait or Cunningham ; and to foster and direct the indications of feeble or undeveloped talent Although the playful coruscations of irony illuminating his works of fiction, no less than the creation of his endless gallery of butts and bores, suffices to prove how tre- mendous would have been his powers had he chosen, after the spirit of the times, to dip his maiden lance in the venom of satire, there is no instance on record of his having written a malicious sentence, or uttered one of those pun- HUEStMONCEUX. 245 mentioned there is certainly not an amiable specimen in him- self, but he sufficiently demonstrates the ancient grandeur of his race, and exhibits that heroic daring which in the others might have been tempered with milder feelings. " To back and guard the archer band Lord Dacre'a bowmen were at hand ; A hardy race, on Irthing bred. With kirtles white and crosses red, Array'd beneath the banner tall. That stream'd o'er Acre's conquer'd wall ; And minstreby as they march'd in order, Play'd 'Noble Lord Dacre, he dwells on the Border/ • •••••• ' And let them oome/ fierce Dacre cried, ' For soon yon crest, my father's pride, That swept the shores of Jadah's sea, And wayed in gales of GalUee, From Branksome's highest towers display 'd. Shall 'mock the rescue's Ungeriug aid ! Level each harquebuss on row ; Draw, merry archers, draw the bow ; Up, bill-men, to the walls, and cry, Dacre for England, win or die !' " Sir Roger de Ficnnes, treasurer to Henry VI., obtained from him a licence to build a castle at Hurstnionceux (or otherwise to rebuild and embattle his house), and to enlarge his park to 600 acres. His son Richard, marrying the heiress of Lord Dacre of Gillsland, was the first Fiennes who obtained the title. The barony of Dacre was, in the year 1819, re- vived and restored in the person of Thomas Brand, Esq. The family-seat is now at Lilly, Herts, a parish which, prior to the year 1700, 'belonged to the family of Docxora (also originally of Cumberland and Westmoreland), of baronial rank in Ireland, ancestors (may the feeling which prompts this be forgiven) to the humble individual by whom this paragraph is written *. Prior to giving our own observations, we must quote three gent sanies which form the glory of a modem wit ; the noble and humane im- pulses of his nature were as incompatible with harshness of opinion as with a base action !** * Vide Gent. Blag., February, 1882, and Chauncey^s Hertfordshire, paMiiH; also Drayton's Polyolbion, 1612, in the XVIIIth song, of the River Medway, ^ where <* Sir Henry Dokwray" is mentioned. 246 COAST OF SUSSHX. descriptions of the former state of this castle in the middle of the 16th and 18th centuries ; the first a MS. survey in the time of Queen Elizabeth, never before published; the second from the steady pen of Grose^ who describes it from the letter of a correspondent in the year 1774; and the last from the fanciful and flippant pen of Horace Walpole. Extract from a curious survey, made in the time of Gregory FyneSy Lord Dacre, of his Manors in Sussex, Aug. 23, 12 Eliz., in the possession of the Reverend Mr. Hare, of Herstmonceux, ** 12 £/tz.~The Manor House of HerBtmonoeux standeth on the east side of the church of Herstmonceux, ahout one furlong and half from the said church, and in the west part of the said park, entering the park-gate towards the south-west and north parts; same house eastwards descending towards the valley, wherein the said house standeth ; the south-west and north parts moated ahout; the outer part of the moat heing of back wall, and paled upon the same ; and the east part thereof lyeing open to the park and woods, sometime heing a pond, and now good pasture* all the moat being of late drained, having little or no water therein, for the more healthful standing of the said house; the entrance of the hoose being towards the north, on a bridge fifty feet long; . . feet broad, and . . feet high, from the bottom of the moat, whereof . . feet next to the gate is a draught-bridge, devised for strength. The house being castle-like, builded quadrant, every way containing . . . feet in length, and as much in bredthf baUded with brick, covered with slate; the towers, gutters, and platforms thereof covered with lead; the whole towers and other edifices are battled. The entering into the said house is at a fair square tower, containing . . feet, and of stories . . . My Lord's arms fairly set forth in stone on the front, over the entering of the same, having fair l4;ht8 of the chief lodging, and second stories of the same tower emboed of stone, the hi^ story being a platform covered with lead, and on every side-comer of the same gate one tower of six square embattled, being round within, and in every of them a watch-tower, embattled, covered with lead, and eighteen feet above the rest of the same tower. The same gate and towers have porthdes, emboed under the embattlement, for casting stones and other defensive engines for defending the same gate; the said gate and towers being defective, of separations of the embattlement thereof, and the watch-towers wasted of great length, with violence of wind and weather, needful to be seen unta Within the entering of the gate is a fair room, vaulted, of . . feet broad and . . feet long. Within the edifices of the said house are four gardens, or courts, whereof the first is at the en- tering of the house, having a fair walk, as in a quadrant, divided from the entering of the said garden with a Wall of brick, of dg^t arches of every side, beuing the inner part of the galleries, serving for lodgings. Three parts of the same are embattled, and the fourth part, towards the north, next the hall, hath a platform covered with lead, for a walk, and the gal- leries and lodging of two stories; the hig^ being of no force ; the lights thereof set out of the roof, of one square light, gable-wise builded, with HURSTMOKCEUX. ^7 torreU embatded, and a fair chapel being on the east comer of the same quadrant, and the hall builded on the north, entering at the west comer of the walk and lower end. The same hall being . . feet long and . . feet over, embattled on both sides, having a square tower at every end, em- battled, and covered with lead ; the hall having hve lights above the said platform on every side, with galleries at both ends; and at the upper end and lower end of the hall, entering north, on the lower story, there is one other fair walk, lyeing about another of the said gardens, having galleries on three parts of the second story thereof, embattled ; having on every side lights with turrets, as in the former galleries. And the north-east comer thereof entereth the parlour, being parcel of the east part of the quadrant of the house ; and in the north-east part of the same garden, by the parlour door, a fair half pace stairs, entering towards the galleries, which cometh . to the chief lodging, called the gilded chamber, and to other chambers adjoining. " The other two courts on the other side are for the kitchen, bakehouse, brewhouse, and other necessary houses of offices, which standeth on the west quadrant of the said house, being well served with fair water, con- veyed from a spring, over the mote in troughs of timber. The same house is built castle-like in a quadrant, as before, having at every comer one fair tower, covered with lead, of six square four stories high ; and also between every of the same comer towers there is one other tower of like building, leading to the leads and embattlements; whereas there are walks to pass round about the same house and quadrant ; and at the north side of the same house there is a draught bridge over the mote aforesaid, of . . feet broad and . . feet long, leading towards an arbour and orchard, walled about with brick, which is . . feet square, wher^dn standeth a fair pile of brick of four stories high, covered with slatt, having a round tower leading to the said stories, the lower part being fairly glazed; which hath been used for a banqueting-house ; and the north-east comer of the said arbour there is one other building, sometime used for a washing-house, &c. The house having a fair prospect towards the sea, and the castle and level of Pevensey on the south, the other three parts diereof are environed about with hills and woods, pared of the said park. The said park standeth in the east side of the Church of Herstmonceuz ; the manor place being in the same park, not distant above two furlongs from the said Church of Herstmonceux ; the said park being three miles about, the third part thereof lyeing in lawns, and the residue well set with great timber trees, most of beech, and partly oak, of fair timber. '' The game of fallow deer in the same park are by estimation two hun- dred, whereof are sixty deer of antler, at the taking of this survey. ''The keeping of the said park is given to Thomas CardyfF, one of my lords menial servanU, with the fee of sixty shillings, the gate, and feeding of ten kyne, one bull, and two geldyngs, the windfalls, and two several fields 4Sontaining three acres and an half, called the keepers croft, and paying eight shillings by the year for the same crofts. Herbage, besides the charge before, will bear twelve geldings or mares in summer-time^ and six in winter. The roast, or pawnage, being a mast year, is worth . . which is preserved for the deer. 248 COAST OF SUSSEX. ^' There are four fair ponda well repleniahed with CSarp, Tencbe^ Sec, and £sur stewea besideay the mote hdxkg dry« ^ Ther& is a Hemery in the aame park called the Hem-wood, and they used to breed in diyens pafts of the paric : the aame hath yielded this year one hundred and fifty neata, whereof . . of ahowlersyandthereatof hero* ahawB. There ia a fair wanren of Conies within the said paikj whidi is moat used, in the lawn called Howfidd, being replenished by estimatioa with . . couple of Conies. *' The aame game being of late in the keeping of die keeper, is now ktten to the keeper for the yearly rent of £6. ISs. 4d., who atandeth bound to aerre my Lord forty doien Conies after three ahillinga the doaen, yf he be thereof required, or so many as he shall be required after the rat^ and the lord discharged of the flee. There is a lodge ooTcxed with thatch, and a atable very ruinous yn timber and coyering, wherein the keeper now lyeth. There are three usual gates of the said park, the one called the Church-gate, Wartlyng-gate and CowperVgate. There are two highways leading through the park to the church, market, and townshipps adjacent. There are besides the manor-house of Herstmonceaux, other edifices, yis. an old ataUe, forge, and slaughter-houae^ without the mote. There is a fair bam, a stable, and a mansion-house near adjoyning, lydng together with a court and curtilage near the park pale, between the diurch lyten of the west and the park eaat, and the great heb-ney aouth, used for the lord's bayly for hay. There is alao one other little house with a curtilage adjacent to the churdi on the west '' The LordDacre hath alao a Fishjmge in the hayenof Pemsy, amongst others for drawyng and taking eels ; yiz. my said lord, the bayly of the liberty, and the hdrs of . . Thitdier, Esquyo*, eyery one of them ought to haye one night's fishing yearly, and eyery two of the jurata of the •ame liberty to haye likewise yearly, one night's fishing there, the oomo- djrtye whereof worth yearly to my said Lord Dacre • . . which hath not of late yeara been put in execution by my lord, albdt the jurors bdng of the corporation of the aame liberty, do admowledge my lord's rig^t therdn, wherefore it were yery requisite for my said lord to cause the same to be put yeariy in execution for preserying his right and preeminens therdn. ** The lord's court baron for Herstmonoeux hath been always used to be kept the same dayafor the manor, which they call the Custome Court. *' The Lord Dacre bath the inheritance of the patronage of the rectory and church of Herstmonoeux, which is in the Queen's Books £18 per An. the same being worth forty marks by the year, beddes the serying of the cure at this day ; whereof one Robert Kenaey, of the age of fifty-four years, is paraon by the gift of the Queen Mary, in the time of my brd's minority."— JBttm?// MSS. " The Castle endoees three courts, a long one and two amaller ones ; the entrance is on the south front, through the great gatdiouse, whidi leads into a spadous court cloistered round. On the north dde is the Hall, which is yery large, and much resembling those of the Colleges at Oxford and Cambridge that haye not been modernized ; the fire-place being in the middle of the room, and the butteries at the lower end. At the upper HUKSTMOMC£UX, S49 L er eafltern side of this haU lie three handsome rooms, one of them forty feet long, these lying one withm another constitute the hest apartments in the castle ; heyond them is the chapel^ some parkmrs for common use, ii with rooms for upper servants, composing the east front. The grand i stairs which lie beyond the hall occupy an area of forty feet square ; the [ kitchen, which is beyond the staircase^ to the west, is large, and as well as I the hidl and the chapel, goes up to a great hei^t, reaching to the upper slory of the house. The offices belonging to it are yery ample;, and the I OTen in the bakdiouse is fourteen feet in diameter. The left side of the south front beyond the great gatehouse is occupied by a long waste room like a gallery in old time% and seems as if it was intended for a stable, in case the castle was besieged, or it should be found necessary to bring the horses and other cattle into a place of security. Underneath the eastern corner tower in the same front is an octagonal room, which was formerly the prison, in the midst of which is a stone post with a large chain. Abore stairs is a suite of rooms similar to those of the best apartments of the castle over whidi it stands. The bed diambers on this floor are sufficient to lodge a garrison, and one is bewildered in the diflferent galleries that lead to them, inerery one of the windows of which is painted on glas^, the Alant, or Wolf-dog, the animal supporters of the family of Fiennes. Many winding staircases, curiously constructed in brick-work, without any timber, communicate with these galleries. The towers on eadi side of the gatehouse on the south front are eighty-four feet in height The south and north fronts of the castle are two hundred and six feet and a half long, and the east and west two hundred and fourteen feet and a half. ** To Richard Bentley, Esq. Battle, August 5th, 17552. ** The only morsel of good ground which we have found (in our Tour) was what the natives assured us was totally impassable ; theK were eight miles to Herstmonceux * : it is seated at the end of a large vale, fiye miles in a direct line to the sea, with wings of blue hilh covered with wood, one of which falls down to the house in a sweep of one hundred acres. The building for the convenience of water to the moat sees nothing at all, indeed it is entirdy imagined on a plan of defence, with drawbridges actually in being, round towers, watch towers mounted on them, and bat* tlements pierced for the passage of arrows from long bows. It was built in the time of Henry VI. and is as perfect as the first day ; it does not seem to have been ever quite finished, or at least that age was not arrived at the luxury of white- washing, for almost all the walls, except in the prin- cipal chambers, are in their native brick-worL It is a square building, eadi side about two hundred feet in length, a porch and cloister very much like Eton CkiUege; and the whole is much in the same taste: the kitchen extremely so, with three vast fimnds to the chimney going up on the inside. There are two or three littlecourts for offices, bat no magnificence of apartments. It is scarcely furnished with a few necessaries, such as • It is almost unnecessary to say, that at this period there was no r^ular road from Battle to the castle but such as was very soft Since however the attention of the legislature has been turned to the coast of Sussex, during the late wars, military roads have been made equal to any in the kingdom. r^ 250 COAST OF SUSSEX. beds and chain. One side has been sashed, and a drawing and dining- room, and two or three other rooms wainscotted by the Earl of Sussex, who married a natural daughter of Charles IL Their arms, with delig^tfal earrings by Gibbon, particularly two pheasants, hang over the chimney. Oyer the great drawing-room chimney is the coat armour of the fint Len- nard Lord Dacre, with all his alliances. The chapel is small and mean, the Virgin and seren long lean saints, ill done, remain in the windows ; there hare been four more which seem to hare been removed for light, and we actually found St. Catharine and another gentlewoman with a church in her hand, exiled into the buttery. There remain two odd cavities with vesy small wooden screens on each side, whidi seem to have been confessionals The outside is of brick, and has a venerable appearance ; the drawbridges are romantic to a degree ; and there is a dungeon that gives one a delightful idea of living in the days of soccage, and under snch goodly tenures ; tfaey showed us a dismal chamber which they call Drummera' Hall, and suppose that Mr. Addison's comedy is descended from it The Estate is 9,000/. a year, and so oompact as to have but seventeen houses on it : we walked up a brave old avenue to the church, with ships sailing on our left hand the whole way. Before the altar lies a lank brass Knight William Fiennes, chevalier ; who died in the year 1405. By the altar is a beautiful tomb, all in our trefoil taste, varied into a thousand little canopies, and two knights reposing on their backs : these where Thomas Lord Dacre and his son Gre- gory, who died without issue." In the year 1777 this noble building, which was at that time in a complete state of preservation, and capable of lasting so for centuries, ** to show,** as Dr. Johnson observed, ** how our ancestors lived,^ was unroofed, the interior removed, and all the windows, &c* dismantled, leaving only an imposing shell and outline for the gratification of posterity. The moat, which entirely surrounded the building, appears to have been about sixty feet wide and eighteen deep. It is crossed on the south side by a modem bridge of four arches (not ybr/y / as a certain "Guide'' observes); here is the grand principal entrance, which is highly effective. Two strong flanking turrets are octagonal in form to half their height, when they are girded by a cornice, with small corbels, from hence they take a cir- cular shape, and are surmounted by battlements, resting on bold machicollations, and above are smaller circular turrets, rising to the height of eighty-four feet. The arch is lofty and contains a neat window above the doorway ; over it is a niche deprived of a statue, probably St. George or St. Michael, and a window on each side. The recollections of the former state f I. . 1» ..:i I < t t ■ '.« ' : . .Ll t , "l I' '•i n « c f 1 < I. HUKSTMONCEUX. S51 of the interior we derived from our honest guide. The en« trance tower was for the warders, who had a spacious waiting room above the lower story, which has a vaulted roof, and contains arblast-windows and port-holes for cannon. The rooms to the left of this are supposed to have been stables and store-houses for provisions during a seige. In the turrets are furnaces^ the means of preparing a terrible mode of close de- fence, when *' Upon tower and turret head^ The aeething pitch and molten lead, Reek'd like a witch's caoldron red." The south-west and south-east corner turrets have dove houses in their upper stories, which may have been a wise precaution for sustenance in war-time. The west side contained the kitchen, with its large funnels ; the bake-house, with its mighty oven, a brewery^ and dairy. On approaching this part, the visitor should beware of a very badly covered well. From the destruction of the interior, the walls which separated the three courts, as well as the cloisters round the first, have disap- peared. The two smaller courts only occupied half the breadth each. At the north-west angle is a tower called the Floodgate Tower, whicli had water- works communicating with the moat. A gallery, or corridor, eight feet wide only, runs along the north front ; at the west end was a large room for servants, popularly called the ^* Red Room," from its floor, sides, and arched roof, exhibiting the naked brick-work : from hence to the east side the rooms are said to have been magnificently wainscotted with carved work, but their precise designation is unknown : in the centre of this front is an oriel ; at the north end of the east front was the refectory, with lofty slender windows and oriels, and must have been a handsome apartment. The chapel crosses its south end, transversely, and here we trace the out- line of the principal court. Its oriel at the east end was large and handsome, enclosing three long separate windows of two / lights ; above is a turret, supported by a strong flat arch, but, from its position, it is scarcely probable that this was a belfry. From the chapel to the south end were some large and handsome 2Si COAST OF SUSSEX. rooms, and at the corner two dungeons, or prisons, but with no particular horrors that we see beyond others. On leaving Hurstmonceux. we must pronounce it to be by far the finest domestic casteUaied mansion we have ever seen ; and from all we have read upon the subject, we are disposed to think it has no competitor in England. The Church, '* the brave old avenue '^ to which is gone, is a small early Gothic building, of three aisles, a chancel, and small north chancel, and a very low but neat tower, with triple lancet windows and an obtuse spire, at the north-west. The population is about 1400. The objects which will strike the spectator are two only, be- sides the splendid monument of Lord Dacre ; a tablet in the chancel for a Mr. Luke Trevigar, a rector of this parish, 1T7S, and his wife, to whose united piety and virtues a striking and pleasing tribute is paid ; and a brass slab on the floor with the following inscription. f ottr . \it . %un\m . \m . M . fncarcon • nre . setgnour . %btn . €xjs»t . mill . (B^(B€ . M . gpst . (cf . Ire . sa . alme . ttkn . ett vmcB .tt . ifs .ftxx . %a . alme . trebostemeitt . paternoster . rt . abe • pr(era • FI • XX • fours . it • parlroit . enattera . *' William Fienles, knight, who died on the 18th day of January, the year of the incarnation of our Lord Jesus Christ, one thousand four hundred and two, lies here; God have mercy on his soul ; and whoever will for his soul devoutly say Paternoster and Ave, shall have for it f six times twenty days pardon." On the north side of the chancel is the monument of the first Fiennes Lord Dacre, and his son. This is a stately erection of Sussex marble, and from its colour and outlines brought to our recollection Quentin Matsy^s splendid work in • « < ACles * and < Chevalier/ or < Chivaler, * are both usually interpreted < Knighit^ but it has been conjectured that the latter was the higher title of the two.'* — Gen. Mag,, March, 1812. t So we read it ; it has been elsewhere rendered « twenty-six.*' HUaSTMOKCEUX. SdS the choir at Windsor. It has a large cinquefoil ogee arch minutely ornamented, a rich base of quatrefoils, and several fretted niches and canopies. The heraldic bearings and tro- phies have been lately restored and gilt. The back of the monument also, which opens into the small north chancel, now used as a vestry, with some slight fragments of stained glass, is similar in appearance, but has the centre < boarded up, and the rest whitewashed. Others of the Fiennes have been here interred. Thomas Lord Dacre, who died in . . . ordered that a hundred wax tapers should be kept burning over his tomb, and that '* an honest priest should sing for his soul" seven years, with a salary of twelve marks yearly. Of the younger Lord Dacre, to whom, in conjunction with his father, the principal monument is erected, an unhappy fate is recorded in the year 1541, proceeding from a rather harsh construction of a rash and youthful frolic, but which appareitly had no reckless nor evil intention, and perhaps much less hard- ness of heart than many ribald feats of rouSs in the present day. Listening, as Holinshed observes, to the ** lewd persuasions*^ of three young associates, Mantell, Frowdes, and Rawdon, he went with them and some others in the night to hunt deer, in Sir Nicholas Pelham's park at Laughton, a few miles distance from his mansion. It is decidedly obvious, that in this pro- ceeding he was actuated by no idea of stealing, or any motive of paltry and dishonest gain, as he had venison enough in his own domain ; it must have been considered in the light of a silly jest or bravado. Unfortunately they encountered three .of Sir Nicholas Pelham^s keepers, who, faithful to their trust, attacked the aggressors stoutly, and unhappily one of the keepers was killed in the fray ; though very probably without any malice prepense on the part of the intruders, who had their liberty, if not their lives, to defend ; and as it was incontrovertibly proved, whilst Lord Dacre was with other of the masquers in a different part of the park, and totally unconscious of what was going on. The three friends, however, above-mentioned were executed for murder, and Lord Dacre having been found S54 COAST OF SUSSEX. guilty by his peers, sufiered the next day after them at Tyburn. He could not, as it is reported, have been convicted if he had pleaded '* not guilty,*' as he had not been in the fray ; but he was persuaded by some villanous courtiers to plead *^ guilty/^ and submit himself to the king's mercy, which these treacherous advisers took care, by means of some influence within their reach, that he should not obtain. The reader will pause, and wonder at such conduct, till he learns a fact which will turn his feelings to indignation, viz., that they expected to obtain a grant of his estate. Much exertion was however used in other quarters to obtain the king'*s favourable consideration, and no '^ small moane,** as Holinshed informs us, was made for him, *^ being a right towardly gentleman, and such a one as many had conceived great hope of better proofe;*^ also only in the twenty-fourth year of his age. But he was in the hands of a brutish ly obstinate monarch, which, as they had been dyed in the blood of his own wives, were not likely to be deterred from signing the death-warrant of a stranger ; and the ill-fated, for we cannot call him guilty, young man was sent to seek that mercy in another world which was denied him in this. From Hurstmonceux to Pevensey we pass the church of Wartliug, a gray-looking building, with two or three aisles and a wooden steeple. On the north side appears a window, with the flowing tracery of the 14th century. From hence the road passes through a rich level, intersected with brooks, and in summer is not unpleasant : a very agreeable day may be passed between the two objects, as we can testify. Passing through the village of Pevensey, which is now very insignificant, but has some old buildings, the traveller on his entering the castle will probably be surprised by its spaciousness. It is to the rest of the castles in this part of England, what Dr. Johnson affirmed of the castles in Wales, compared with those in Scotland — ^'one of the former would contain all the latter.'' On advancing from the outer walls he will approach the keep, with admiration of its substantial round towers, in parts excellently preserved^ and the strong curtain walls between them. It reminded us of two distinct objects, perhaps PEVENSEY. 255 not very similar ; the castle of Falaise in Normandy, and that of Rhyddlan in North Wales. The latter was endeared to us, and perhaps ^'the wish was father to the thought." That some remains of a Roman castle were here, on which the pre- sent building was engrafted, seems undeniable, the traces being still distinguishable ; also that Roman bricks were worked into the more recent structure : but to speak of the entire castle as one of the principal Roman remuns in Britain is careless absurdity. The form of the outer walls is polygonal, but tending to a circle, and they enclose a space of seven acres. The principal entrance was on the side of West Ham, with a moat and two round towers, near the top of which are several layers of red and white Roman brick. Part of this fell three years ago, when a lady who was viewing it, and the guide, an old woman, narrowly escaped. Red layers also occur in the south-east tower, in opposition to the statement of Gough, whose account of this castle seems very incorrect. The souih^ as we conceive, and not the east side of both the keep and the outer bail was the same : — here the sea is supposed to have flowed up at a very distant period, and before the present town was erected. But the irregular form of the structure rather puzzles an ordinary spectator as to the direction of the cardinal points. Facing the south or south-west are two long iron guns, not very old in appearance, but one of them has the initials of Queen Elizabeth : they do not seem to be larger than 9 pounders, and were fired at the Jubilee in 1809. The E.S.E. wall stands on a cliff: this is the most ruinous part of the building, and has a very picturesque appearance ; terrific looking masses have rolled down from the walls, which are generally ten feet thick. The keep has the most complete features; the upper parts of several of the towers are of very perfect and solid masonry, and exhibit their windows for arbalists : — a kitchen, refectory, &c., or those places supposed to be such, are in the lower stories of the round towers, with Norman arches in the walls. Altogether, though there is not much richness of architecture, or carved work, few ruins are more teeming with interest than those of Pevensey castle. The S56 COAST OF SUSSEX. walls are occasionally beautifully covered with ivy and small hedge-shrubs, and those who have no fear of giddiness may walk round the greater part of those in the keep. On the south side was a sally-port, and on the northeast an entrance- gate to the town. The church now appears disfigured^ but was doubtless once a respectable structure. It has three aisles, with a very large and extremely low tower, with a pointed roof on the north side. The chancel, neatly covered with ivy, appears to have been larger, and has three fine lancet windows at the east end. HISTORY. Pevensey was termed by the Saxons Peofnesea *. Its first authentic mention in history is in the year 79S, SI OfftB^ when it was given by Berodaldus, with Hastings, to the abbey of St. Denis, at Paris. One of the possible localities of Anderida has been assigned to this place, but with less likelihood than those we have pre- viously alluded to. Usher also conjectures it to be the Caer Pensavelccoid of the Britons. This was one of the places ravaged and partly burnt by Earl Godwin; and in the reign of Edward the Confessor, 1048, *' Earl Swayn came out of Denmark with 8 Ships and rettuned to Eng- land and coming to his father's House Earl Godwyns at Pevensey humbly requested of him and his Brothers Harold and Tostie to endeavour hk reconciliation with the king."— Pou;e^'« Wa/es. Burrett MSS. ** Pevensey, called by the Saxons Peofiensea, by the Normans PevenseD, and now commonly Pemsey ; we .set it in the ftrst place, because we con- ceive when it gave the name of the Rape to it, it was the chief town, though no market town, so far as we can discover. It was certainly of dd a famous place for shipping, for it is reckoned one of the seaports whidi Godwin Earl of Kent ravaged in Edward the Confessoi^s time, and took away many ships; but now it is only accessible by small boats, which crowd up a rill to it. What is spoke memorable of it in our historians, we shall set down in the order of time in which it hapi»ened, vis. : In 1049, Soane, Earl of Oxford, Gloucester, Hereford, Someraet, and Berks, • « It may seem to take its name from the scouring of the haven by the waters of the level pent in, having vent through their sluices here into the sea.'* ^■^eakes' Cinque Ports. PEVEMSEY. 257 son of Godwin Earl of Kent, being forced to fly into Denmark^ because he had enveigled Edgiva^ abbess of Leominster, out of her house with an in- tent to marry her> contrary to the laws of those times, returned with eight ships and landed ^at this town^ where having obtained his cousin Beom to mediate for him to the king, upon his promise that for the future he would become a faithful subject; he took Beom into his ship to carry him to the king, who was then at Sandwich, under pretence of making his peace ; but Suane having thus got him into his power, carried him to Dort, in Holland, where he inhumanly murdered him, and cast his body into a deep ditch coyering it with mud. Aldred, bishop of Winchester, obtained his pardon for alluring Edgiva ; but his conscience could not pardon his treacherous cruelty in murdering Beom his kinsman, until he underwent the penance of going to Jerusalem barefoot, in which journey he got so much cold that he died thereof at Licia, in his return h.ome."-^Account of Eastbourne, 1787. " Pevensey river, though now so insignificant, was formerly, in all pro- bability, of no mean consideration, the names of places considerably inland from Pevensey found that presumption. Hersi Haven, about three miles inland, shows there was a station for vessels at the wood. Herst Bridge, north-west of Hailsham, now corruptedly called Horse Bridge, was for- merly a pass of some consequence, as it combined the communication be- tween the open country and the wild, seems to have been placed at the entrance of the great wood, as a neighbouring family seat renders probable,, now vilely oomipted into Horselunga, but anciendy denominated HersU longue, to show the commencement of the Silva Anderida, in that part of the country." ''About 1700, the river was navigable for small vessels to Pevensey Bridgc'-^ttrre// MSS, The town, castle, and rape of Pevensey were given by the Conqueror to Robert, Earl of Moriton, in Normandy, his half- brother. de Pevensell in quocunq' modo teme lucrate fuerint et bordarum de Buscheio liberum et quietum, et dedmam piscatorie suie antequam ulla pars inde exeat, quod Rieva primus confirroat"— /^/<2. '' Stephanus Rex Anglie Archiep'is &c., Sdatis me concessisse et dedisse Ecdesis S. Trinitatis Cicestriffi, Hiilario Epo et Sucoessoribus suis Epis- oopisy in perpetuam elemosynam, Capellariam de Pevensel cum omnibus ad earn pertinentibus, ita quod Hillarius E'pus et Successores sui inde sint CapeDani Matildis Regime uxoris mee, et successores ejus, et ad festa gus invitati tanquam proprii Capellani ejus venient, et ei inde serviant." '' JoL—Johannes Rex concessit Baronibus de Pevensel quod fadant unam villam, super Galetum quod jacet inter portum de Pevensel et Lan* genere."— riWtf p. 262. " 9 Job. — Barones de Tevenesel debent xl. marcas, pro habenda licentia fadendi unam viUam super Galetum."— Do. " 6 Ric. 1.— De Scutagio militum ad redemptionem d'ni R^s, in Sussex. Gilbertus de Aquila debet xxi'. xvii\ vi**. de scutagio militum suorum, scilicet de quolibet milite xii'. vi<>. Quia sunt de parvo feodo Moritonis."— Jlfag-. Rot 6 R. 1. 16. a. '* Ric. 1.— Ricardus primus concessit Johanni de Palerna feodum ports de Pevensel Concessit etiam eid^m Johanni custodiam portie Castelli Pevensel"— See AyHJT's Ckartas, pp. 26, 27. " Ricus primus confirmat Ecde'is et monachis S. Maria? de Grestdn ex dono Hugonis de Cahaignes in Pevensd iii acras terrse. Ex dono Willis filii AUwredi 4 acras terrc quas tennit Sefredus juxta Ecdesiam S. Maris de Pevensd ex parte ocddentis." — Cart. 9. £. 2. n. 21 per Inspex, " 4 Hen.— William, Earl of Moreton, in Normandy and Cornwall, who, 4 Hen. 1. A. D. 1104, rebdling against that king, he sdzed on all bis posses- dons inEngland, and banished him the realm, afterwards taking him prisoner at the battle of Tenerekebray, in Normandy, he sent him prisoner to England, put out his eyes, and bestowed this manor, town, and castle, on Gislebert als Gilbert de Aquila, son of Richer de Aquila, and Judith his wife, d. of PEVENSEY. 259 Ridid de Abiincis, sister of Hugh^ first E. of Chester, wch Richer was skin, A. D. 1685, fighting for king Wm. against his rebellious subjects of Maine, leaving issue 2 Sons, 1 Gislebert^ SEgenulph, and 1 d. Maud, m. Robt de Molbray, £. of Northumberland."— Or^fericuj Vitalis, 649 A* *' He married Juliana, d. of GefiSrey, £. of Mauritane, by whom he had 4 sons, 1 Richer, 2 Eugenulf, 3 Geffirey, 4 Gislebert. Eugenulf and Geffiey were shipwredced, with the children of Henry 1 . On the grant of the afd manor, town, and castle of Pevensey to Gislebert, it was called the honor of Aquila, or the Eagle, Pevensey Castle being the head thereof. The afd. Gilbert d . . . and was succaeded by his son. ** Ricker, or Richd. de Aquila, who taking up arms against that king, to restore Wm. son of Robt. Curthose, to his father's honors, his estate became forfeited, but was restored by the intercession of his unde Rotro ; being engaged a second time in tlie same rebellion, his estate again escheated to the crown, and was settled by the king on his grandson. '* Henry Fitzempress (Maud), who, after a long contest with king Stephen^ to recover his right, compomided for his success, assigned the town and castle of Pevensey, and whatever Richer de Aquila had of this honor to " Wm. son of Idng Stephen, who held them till Henry 2d. attained the throne, and 4 Hen. 2 surrendered them again to the king on the restitution of an the Lands which were his father's before he waa king of England, upon which Henry 2 restored them again, as it seems, to " Richer de Aquila for he, 12 Hen. 2, on collection of the aid for marry- ing the king's dau. certified that he held 35) knights' fees, of wch he; had been enfeoffed in the time of Hen. 1. This Richer gave the monks of Grestine, in Normandy, the lands and woods lying in the manor of Willin- done, in Sussex, with the tythcs of his mill there, as also herbage in his forest, and also tythes of his Idp. and castle of Pevenesel, and other lands of great value in Sussex. He d. 22 Hen. 2, 1176, and was succeeded by Gilbert de Aquila. « Gilbert de Aquila, 6 R. 1, paid 21^ 7*. 6^. for his knights' fees in Sussex, on the scutage then collected for king Ridiard's redemption ; he m. . . . sister to Wm. E. of Warren, and d. in Normandy, 6 Job. was succeeded by his son, " Gilbert de Aquila m. Isabel ; his estates were forfeited for passing into Normandy without the license of king Henry 3, who, a. r. 19, granted this manor, and all the lands belonging to the said Gilbert, with the advowsons of the churches, as also of the castle of Pevensey, with the wards and service thereto belonging, to ^ « Gilbert Mareshall, E. of Pembroke, to hold by the service of 2 knights fees until the same shall be restored to the right heirs thereof. On Satur- day, at the eve of St Botolph, he delivered up this castle to the king, Cart. 24 H. 3. m. 2., who, 25. H. 3. (Pat m. 2.) bestowed it on his Queen's Unde during pleasure, for his better support, except such lands as Gilbert Mareschall had disposed, viz. the town of Grey wdl, in marriage to Gilbert Basset with Isabd, d. of Wm. Ferrers. *< 20 Hen. 3, 1236. The Earldom of Warren at this time held of the king 62 knights' fees in the rape of Lewes, and 30i in the rape of Peven- esel of the fee of Gilbert de Aquila. Dug. Bar. 77 a.— Testa, de NeviL s2 260 COAST OF SUSSEX. " 22K, ^. Peyensey castle besieged by the men of Sussex^ Surrey^ and Kent^ he adhering to Henry, Duke of Lancaster." ** Odo de Baieux shut himself up in Pevensey castle, where he was in hopes to hold out a siege till the Duke of Normandy should come to his relief; but the town was taken in a few days. Huntingd. p. 372. The Saxon Annals, and Simeon of Durham say, that it held out above six weeks, and Brompton, p. 395, says seven weeks. On the death of the Conqueror, A. D. 1087, Odo de Baieux was released from his imprisonment in the castle of Roan, in Normandy, by Wm. Rufus ; coming to England, was confirmed in ye possession of his Earldom of Kent, as also in many of his former places of trust, amongst which was ye castle of Rochester ; but when Odo found he had not ye whole sAvay, he raised an insurrection in Kent, in order to advance Robert, Duke of Normandy, to the throne, and having pillaged many places in that county, carried his plunder to Rochester, from whence he went to Pevensea castle, where he held out a siege for six weeks, when he was forced, for want of food, to surrender it to the king, and to bind himself to deliver up Rochester castle, where ye chief Norman Lords were shut up, under the command of Eustace, Earl of Bologne. Wm. E. of Moretagne and Boulogne, 3rd son of king Stephen, lord of the honor of the Eagle et Pevensey, and, in right of his wife, 4th Earl of Warren and Surrey, died at the siege of Tholouse, a. d. 11 60, without issue. " A. D. 1144. Stephen invested the castle of Pevensey, but finding it too strong to be taken by force, left a body of men before the place to reduce it by famine. *' In ye Treaty between Henry and Stephen it was agreed that William Stephens' son should have inter dia the Honour of the lateWm. Warrenne, whose daughter and heir he had married, and Richer de I'Aigle's share of ye Honor of Pevensey, and should do homage and give security or hostages for his fidelity to Henry. "^Burre/l MSS., p.\S6,of 1682. " Hen. 3. A. d. 1365. The Barons, thinking it of great consequence to their party to be entire masters of the coast of Sussex, Leicester, with this view, sent John Fitz Alan orders, in the king's name, to deliver up his son and heir, or the castle of Arundel, by way of hostage for his fidelity. The castle of Pevensey being still left very convenient for receiving supplies from France, Simon de Montfort had marched from London with a body of the City Militia, and another of the Barons' troops to invest it, but after lodng a great deal of time before it, was called away by his father, who wanted his assistance, and returned to London." " 27 Ed. 1. Baronia et Honor de Aquila is quit claim to the king by Amadeus comes Sabaudia."— J9urre// MSS» In 18 Edw. 1, a complaint was made by the Abbot of Battle, Prior of Lewes, and a great many others, having lands in Pevenesel Marsh, that one Lucas de la Gare, who was appointed by the king one of the overseers and guardians of the Marsh, instead of doing his duty had begun to raise a certain bank athwart the haven, as also a sluice, intending to finish them, BO that the fref»h water could not pass through the midst of the marsh to PEVENSEY. stei the SOL, to the great peril of the ndighbours, and danger of drowning their lands. The king issued a Commission of Inquiry to his justices, ther^ upon."-^ Abridged from Burrell MSS. €( 6 Ed. 1. Ricardus le Bod, tenet 15 Ubrat terrae infra lihertatem Quinque Portnum per servitium essendi Janitor forinsed Porte Castri de VeveneaC-^HarL MS. No. 11 92. ** 26 Ed. 1. Hen' de Palema, 26 Ed. 1, ten per servitia costodiendi portas de PevenesseU. ** The king, by a writ of his great seal, commanded the Barons of his Exchequer to prepare a valuation of lands appointed for a settlement of 18,000/. Turonois p. an. on Isabella, a daur. of France, who was to be married to Prince Edward : inter alia Honor Aquila P^aeter Castrum de Pevenese cccc/. — Burrell MSS. u By 10 Edw. 2. liberty was granted to Robert de Sassy, and Oliria his wife, to inclose as much of Pevensey Marsh as was then overflowed, and in the occupation of no man, and to hold it of the said king and his heinb during their lives, for a pair of gilt spurs ; to be paid into the Exchequer every St. John's day, which demand was afterwards superseded by his order.^—Ea^/Aottnie, 1787. Pope Nicholas^ taxation, 1^9L " Vicai' de Pevnesee .... Ecd'ia de Westhme .... Ecd'ia de Boxle est in usus Ep'i et taxat cum temper*; Vicarii ejusdem Bona Ep'i Cioestre' Boxle qd. taxatur £. $. d. 4 6 8 8 10 13 4 12 17 1" CUSTOMS OF PEVENSEY, Abridged and spelling modernised from the Burrell MSS. *' Thes ben the usages and customs of the Towneporte and of the Leege of Pevensage of the tyme whereof no mynd is*." All the commons of the town and leege as well as aUwt, prior or knight, and other worthy men having lands were to assemble the Monday after St. Michael, in St Nicholas Church, and to choose a bailiff, styled ''receyvour," who was to take solemn oaths, and receive the '' mandement" of the king, the constable of " Dovwe," and the barons of the five ports. The same day he was to choose twelve jurats from the four quarters of the leege, who shall rightly assess, &&, sparing neither rich or poor ac- cording to their ability,— So help them God and all saints. Also he shall choose to him a common derk. Also the men of the burgage of Pevensey have an hosfntal, called St John the Baptist, in which are brethren and sisters, and one burgess shall always be overseer and supervisor of the same, to gnmt *' corodys' to men and women, and superintend the quantity and disposition. * The legal term and limitation, " De tempore quo non exsUit memoria," dates at the captivity of Richard L in the Holy Land. 262 COAST OF SUSSEX. And the said " recevor" may place id the same hospital any honest man or woman of the le^e reduced to poverty. Also the Lady Queen of England hath a port-reeve^ who ought to pay eight marks, and levy it customaiily on the inhabitants. Also the port-reeve is the coroner, and b to proceed according to the usages of the Cinque Ports (which see) : in case of condemnation, if the pri- soner he of the franchise, he is to be had on the bridge to be cast into the haven, but if guildable he shall be hanged without the le^^ at a place caUed the « Fash-Tfeiver The port<*reeve is judge in pleas of land, &c. The receivor and jurats may make any honest inhabitant of a year and a day a freeman, who shidl take an oath and " pay to the Light of Si» Nicholas," Also the men of the said franchise may '' chase to" the hare or conies, hunt, fish, and fowl every where by land or water, except those places where no man " hath to do," without the leave of him to whom the dose bdongeth. Also any man of the franchise may buy and sell in London or any market-town without being molested; and if hindered, the receivor and jurats of Pevensey are to interfere in his behalf. The receivor, jurats, and commonalty claim to be a member of the port of Hastings, and to enjoy all usages, &c. No bailiff can attach a man of the franchise, except for plea of the king or profit of the commonalty, without the king's special commandment In 1163, 9 John, license was given for building a town between " PeveneselF' and ** Langele,*" with similar liberties to those of the Cinque Ports, a market every Sunday, and a fair, lasting seven days, on the Nativity of St. John the Baptist. '* 7 Hen. 2. A Donum was answered both for the counties and for the dties or burghs. " VizS Idem Vicecomes. r. c. (regi computat) in Kberatione militum de Pevenesd y marcas et q. e. (quietus est) Mag. Rot 7 Hen. 2. Rot 8. 6. ''14 Hen. 2. Richerus de Aquila paid to the Scutage of Galway xvu. vid. per fee, for certain fees of Moreton wch he held in the Co. of Sussex. ** Gillebertus de Aquila r. c. de xxi/. xviu. nd, de Scutagio militum suorum ; scilicet de unoquoque milite xiu. vui. et W». de Chahaignis the like for his knight's fees. Mag. Rot 33 H. 2 rot 8. C. Sudsexe. Madox Exchr. cap. 16, p. 488. ''8 Hen. 3. De primo scutagio R^s Henrici, tertii, assiso ad 11 marcas Gillebertus de Aquila (debet) XLni marcas et us. de xxxv feodis de feodis Moiitoniae. Mag. Rot 8 Hen. 3 rot 3. a. Sudsex. ''11 Hen. 3. Gillebertus de Aquila reddit oompotum de B. Marcis pro habenda saisana de terris suis quae captae fUenmt in manum Regis led- dendis ad terminoe oontintoe in origiuali deCanceDaria; ita quod in ultimo termino, sdlioet ad natalem domini anni xn allocentur ei, ea quae capta sunt de terris praedictis tempore quo extiterunt in manu Regis. Mag. Rot 11 H. 3. Sudsex. Madox Excheq. cap. 88, p. 707." PEVENSET. 268 " On W". the 6th E. Warren joining Lewis the Dauphin ag". King John^ his defection was so displeasing to the Idng, that he sent him a precept to deliyer up his castle of Pevensey to Mathew Fitzherhert, who was commanded to demolish it '^2 Hen. 2." Sa'ysMadox '^ the honor of Gilhert de Aquila and the honor of Warenne were vested inW». 6th £. of Warrenne : the Record he quotes says, ' Comes de Warenna dehet zliu/. et xys. de xxxv feodis^ de feodis Gilliherti de Aquila, de feodis Moretoniee et c & xx/. de Ix feodis de Baronia sua.'— ATcrg-. Eot 2 Hen. 3. a. m. 2. Sudsexia tit, " I find in Testa de Nevil, under y« article of Hundred de Wodeton Com. Surry, ' Villa de Westoote que fuit Gilherti de Aquila, capta fiiit in manus domini Regis, quia idem Gilbertus abiit in Normanniam contra voluntatem domini Regis, asdidtur, et Comes Warrennee finiyit pro sorore sua quae fuit uxor ipsius Gilherti pro dicta yilla quam hahuit in dote; i. e. in manu Comitls, et est in Baronia Gilherti de Aquila.' This tine from £. Warren was only on ace-, of his sisters dower from those lands, to wch she became entitled 6 Joh^ in which year her husband died in Normandy ; 9 Joh". he paid 300 marks for y*. custody of y*. said lands, and it is not to be doubted, but sbe enjoyed her dower for life in consequence." a Joscelin, Castellan of Pevensey, attests a charter without date from Simon s. of W". and grandson of Simon de Achingham, to the monks of S. Pancras, Lewes. " 1 1 Hen. 3. Thereof her son Gilbert gave 1 1 Hen. 3, 300 marks fine for livery of his lands being probably at this time come to majority ; but before 19 Hen. 3 he had forfeited the same; for at that time they were granted to Gilbert Marshall E. of Pembroke, and 25 Hen. 3 to Peter de Savoy, who, 28 Hen. 3, had custody of the above Gilbert's h&i.--Wats. 60. Dug. Bar, p. 780. '*' 49 Hen. 3. Rex vicecomiti Sussex salutem. Summonito per quatnor legaliores Milites de Comitatu suo praedicto Petrum de Subandia apud Pevenseiam, Johannem de Warrena apud Lewes, et Hugonem de Bygod apud Boscham, quod sint corana nobis et Consitio nostro in proximo Par- Ijamento nostro Lond. primo die Junii, Justiciam facturi et recepturi.— Rymer* ''Petrus de Sabandia (Savoy) 37 Hen. 3, Pevensey a portu Castri versus austral; usq. ad molend. Abbatis de Begham exparte ocddentali de Westham et inde de libera Warrenna. ''26 £. 1 Henricus de Palm tenet ten, suum per servie, cnstodiendi portas de PeVenesseQ— To u;^ Bee. " Henricus de Palema custodit portam, extra Turrim de Ffallium p' sergantiam illam et valet per annum mj marc et dimid.— Te^to de NeviL '* 26 £. 1. Ricus le Bod ten 15 Kbrat terre infra libertatem v portnum p' sergantiam essendi Janitor forinsecus porte Castri de Pevensey et 100 solid terre extra praedictam libertatem in soeagium et nil habet extra pre- dictem libertatem p' quod possit attachiare. S64 COAST OF SUSSEX. .'*7 Ed. 2 Barones de Pevensey. Peyensey Fer 7 diet.-^Tower Rec. CartOi iVb. 45. ** 14 Ed. 3. — Pevenae castr' de, Herbag infra muraa gnadem, cum custodia Warren de Wilington oonoess p' Philippam Re^^nam Angli» Jo. Whiteherah. ooniirm> p. R. 1. p*. anno 14 £. 3. m. 10." " Hen. IV. A. D. 1405.— Edw. Duke of York was kept a dose prisoner in the castle of Pevensey." '' 7 and 8 Edw. IV.— Granted to Elizabeth queen consort for life as WUIingdon."— ^. vide, LETTER OF IJiDY PELHAlf, THEN DEFENDING THE OASTLE OP PEVENaSY^ 25th July, 1399. {From Brydges" Peerage^ vol. v.) " My dear Lord, I recommande me to yowr hie Lordeschipp wyth hert and body and all my pore mygth, and wyth all this I think zow, as my dere Lorde, derest and best yloved off all erthlyche Lordes^ I say for me^ and thanke y how my dere Lord, with all thys that I say before, off your comfort- able lettere, that ze send me from Lownefraite, that com to me on Mary Magdaleyn day ; fibr by my trowth I was never so gladd as when I heard by your lettre, that ye warr stronge ynogh wyth the grace off Grod, for to kepe yow fro the malyce of your ennemys. And dere Lord iff it lyk to your hyee Lordeschipp that als son als ye mycht, that I myght her off your gracious spede^ whyche God Almyghty contynue and encrfisse. And my dere Lord iff it lyk zow for to know off ray ffiure, I am here by layd in manner off a s^e, with the counte of Sussex, Sudray, and a great parcyll off Kente; so that lue may noght out, nor none vitayles gette me, hot w^^ myche hard. Wharfore my dere iff it lyk zow, by the awyse off zowr wyse counsel], ibr to sett remedye off the salvation off yhower castell, and w* stand the malyce off ther schires foresayde. And also that ye be fullyche enformed off there grett malyce wyrkers in these schyres, whydie y^ haffes so dispytfully wrogth to zow, and to zowr castell, to yhowr men, and to zour tenaunts ffi>re this cuntree, have gai wastede for a gret whyle. Fare wele my dere Lorde tj^e Holy Trinity zow kepe fro zowr ennemys, and son send me gud tythyngs off yhow. Ywryten at Pevensey in die castell on Saynt Jacobe day last past. ** By yhowr awnn pcre I. Pelham." Thus directed. " To my trew Lorde." '' 17 Ric. 2.— John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, granted to John Pelham, Esq., the office of constable of his castle of Pevensey, during life, with the fees, wages, &c. thereto belonging, given under his seal, in the castle of Hertford, Dec the 7th." '' 1 Hen. 4.— King Henry the 4th, by his letters-patent, dated at West- minster, 12 Feb. a. r. I^, granted to John Pdham, and his heirs male, the office of Constable of the Castle of Pevensey, with the honour of the Eagle, and all those his manors, lands, tents, rents, services, fees, chaces, parkB, warrens, mills, rivers, fisheries, as also all perquisites of Courts of the Hundred, heriots, reliefs, escheats, franchises, returns of writs, issues, fines, felons, and of and all other the profits whatsoever and franchises of PEVBM8EY. SC5 the Cinque Ports, within the rape of Pevensey^ which was ratified and confirmed by letter»-patenty bearing date 1 Joly following." '< 7 Hen. 4.— The Duke of York was committed to Sir John Pelham's keeping in the castle of Pevensey till the next Parity being accased of conveying to Owen Glendower> the sons of Roger, £. of Mtudk/'Siowe'^ Annals, £d. 1614, p. 332." ** 6 Hen. 6. (says Collins) the King committed to Sir John Pelham's custody Queen Joane, the Isst wife of Hen. IV., which Sir Jn. P. appointed nine servants to attend and bring her to his castle of Pevenseye." ^ % Hen. 5«— Edw. Plantagenet (s. and h. of £dm. de Langley) Duke of York, by his will dated 22 Aug*., proved 30 Nov., 1416, gives the following bequest :— <' Idem le devise a Thomas Plebtede xxJ. en memoire pour la naturesse (kindness) qu'il me monstra quant je fuy a Pevensey en g^e/'—Gough's WiUsy published 1780, 4\' 1 acre ; also those 1 1 ac. of land in the court called the Base Court, and the 3 marshes called the r*f. S.W. marshes in y* psh. of Pevensey, now or late in y« occu- pation of Sir Thos. Pelham, or his assigns, the same being found and returned on y' survey thereof to be an overplus of measure more than granted in any original lease of y« said lands and premises ; and also those 60a. Or. :20p. of land lyeing in Cockmersalts in Bexliill psh. now or late in y tenure of Jn. Giles and Benj. Scarlet, Gent, or their assigns, found in measure above what has been granted in y^ original lease or leases thereof; also those lands lyeing in south lease in Pevensey p'sh, returned in said survey to be an- overplus measure more than is mentioned in Ferrer's lease, now or late in y« occupation of Ashbumham, or of his ass"', contK. 1 A. 1r. Op. ; also 6 ac. in y* tenure of Jn. Meeres, or his ass"' ; also 3 parcels of marsh and upland called the King's Wishes, lyeing in Moore- brook, in Kelsham p'sh, oonti. 10a. 2r. Gp., in y« tenure of Ja". Fennell of Wilmington^ or his ass"*; als that mess^ called the George in Westham town, near y' west gate leading to Pevensey castle, with y« yards and 2 gardens, oonti^. 1 ac. ; also a cottage under j* W. end of Pevensey castle, adjoin, thereto, with a stable and garden cont besides said garden, 40 feet in length and 16 feet in bredth; also all that burgage tenem* garden and land, cont* 4 an acre in Pevensey town, in Geo. Richardson's occupation ; also Oa. 1r. Op. of land under the N.E. end of the inner ward of y« old castle, adjoin? to y^ cast end of y* slip which lyes under y*' so. side of y*-* castle wall, late in Nicholson's occup. : also a cottage on y* waste in Thos. Lowe's occup-, and another cottage lately erected on y* waste in Perchin's occupy ; also a mess, bam, and garden, orchard and croft, in Westham p'sh, contf 1a. 4r. Op. in Sam. Wilson's occup" Sec ^ an. B^L I9s. Sd. ob., which arises thus — Portreeve and other rents 24/. Ts.Sd, ob., perquisites .of c\ and other royalties 10/. 14^. 6d., one acre in the inner ward IL Os. Od., do. under the castle wall 0/. 13^. id, overplus of 11 acres in the base of c* and the three marshes in the same 11/. Os. 0 as Lombard's marginal note affirms, I cannot belieye; nor do I be- lieve it to be wholly till the sixteenth year of that King Edward, for I find by a Memorandum in a book remaining with the Reocnxls of the town of Rye these words, yiz.: " M. D. quod anno Domini Millesimo cdxxxyii" in vigilia sanct* Agathie yirginis, submersa fuit viSa de Wynchelaee et omnes terne inter Climesden usq' ; le Vochere de Hethe. Eodem anno erat tanta copia Uadi per univers. Anglie, Scotie, Walliie, regiones, quod Tendebatur quarterium frumenti pro duobus solidis.' Englished thus : * Be it remembred, that in the year of our Lord 12B7, in the even of St. Agath the Virgin, was the town of Winchelsea drowned and all the lands between Climesden and the Vocher of Hithe. The same year was such plenty of com throu^^out all the Countries of England, Scotland, and Wales, that a Quarter of Wheat was sold for two shillings/ '' Old Winchelsea being drowned, the inhabitants, by favour of the king and authority of his charters and grants aforesaid, brought the name of Winchelsea to their new plantation at Iham, (which seems to be that which was before a member to Hasting, called Pedt Iham, and the rather because Hasting yet claims that part called St. Leonard's,) and there built a town of about forty or thirty-nine squares, called quarters, after the pattern (as is believed) of the old town with spacious streets; adorned, besides the religious houses, widi three churches, called St. Giles, St. Leonard's, and St. Thomas the Apostle, of which two former only some of the ruins remain to be seen, and of the latter but part of the ancient building, and that no more than some say was intended only for the chancel ; yet all three were standing, as Lambard affirms, within memory when he wrote, which was 1575. Fortified, besides the natural situation on an hill, with walls, part of which, and of three of the gates, are yet standing; that called Pipewell leading to Rye, another called Newgate leading to Hasting, and the other called Strandgate leading to the rivulet running near the foot of the hill, and so into the sea at Rye, formerly called the River of Ree, which the edifying of this new town is supposed to have run up navigable beyond Winchelsea into the country, and at the west side of the town in the place called Pewes Pond, conceived to have made the harbor where ships lay at anchor, which the sea afterwards de- serting, was one cause of the decay of the place. But others attribute their decay to the fire of the Frendi in the Reigns of King Ridiard IL alid King Henry VL yet was it not so much decayed in 1573, when Queen Elizabeth in her Progress gave it a visit, but that beholding the goodly situation, ancient buildings, grave bench of a Mayor, and 12 Jurats in their scarlet gowns, and city-like deportment of the people (there being then several gentry), as well as projection of the place, she gave it, as she thought deservedly, the name of '* Little London." And it is yet a title of honour to the noble family of the Finches in Kent, who are Earls of Win- chelsea." — Jeakes Cinque Ports* *' The French also played the incendiaries in this town in the reign of Richard II. and Henry VI. That it recovered its losses is evident not WINCH ELSEA. 277 only from the vast vaults found in every part wheresoever the inhabitants dig, but from its supplying to the exigencies of the state twenty-one ships and ^ye hundred and ninety-six men." — Pennant. In 31 £. ], the king was informed that the banks and ditches in the marsh of Winchelsea were so broken by the overflowing of the sea, that the land was in danger of being drowned, and that the king's tenants, by virtue of an ancient composition between them and the other land- holders, that these lands should be defended by the latter, refused to aid in the repairs, which the others could not afford to do without; whereupon he ordered an equal and equitable contribution to be levied upon his own lands by his Custos, for which he was to receive an allowance from the Exchequer. In the following year it was represented to him that the old wall towards the east was insufficient, and that there must be a new bank there of 350 perches, which the other tenants there were unable to com- plete, when he ordered another contribution to be made from his own domain. — Burrell MSS, abridged. Pope Nicholas' Taxation, 1^1. <£ s, (L EccPia be* Thome de Winchelsee 10 13 4 Rector h't breve de xxws. viiJ. EccHa bi' Egidii • 6 13 4 non excedit EccKa de Y'h'm . . . 4 13 4 There was a third church, St. Leonard'^s, which probably in this valuation is identified with Yhm or Iham. FEE FARM RENT. EDWARD I. TVanslcUioTi. " 6 Edward I.— The barons and bailiffs of Winchelsea, conoemlng XLn. pounds farm for the town of Winchelsea, which the king has granted them, with all 'its appurtenances and Uberties, to be held by such farm as long as it shall please the king ; so that the same barons^ by the hands of the bailiffs aforesaid for that time, shall pay yearly of die said farm, to William Manfe and Johanna his wife, in the name of the king, x. pounds : the remainder of the aforesaid zlh. pounds they must pay to the Ex- chequer, viz. one half at the Exchequer of Easter, and another half at the Exdiequer of St. Michael And the date of the commission is the 7th of February."— 3fa^. Rot. 6 E W*". d'Ipres, Earl of Kent ; the prison of the town is a tower, wch still bears his name. This town ei\joys the great privil^es and immunities of the Cinque Ports. It hath sent 286 COAST OF SUSSEX. burgefises to Pari', from 49 £. 3; but in the following times was incon- siderable. When £dw. 3. walled it about, and Winchebea decayed, it began again to recover, and, by a lucky accident, flourished as much as ever^ for the ocean, swelled with an extr^ tempest, broke so violently, that it made a convenient port, whch another tempest some time after improved ; after wch the town much increased in inhab^'., buildings, fishing, and navigation, became more prosperous that it had ever been before; but the impetuous tides have now so dioaked up the haven with sands, that there is scarce a passage left for the smallest y&aidB,"—Mag,Britt.p, 500. Ed, 1730. ''This town (says an unknovm writer, men^ in Mag. Britt. p. 500, 501) is encompassed by the tides about two parts in three, and on the east side is washed by the Rother. The south side is washed by a branch of the tide, called Fillingham water, over which was formerly a ferry, but now there is a bridge. About 50 or 60 years ago here was a good tide harbour, while the tide had its free course up the Rother, wch being then stopjied by a sluice about 6 miles above the town, and another about 3 miles, it is now almost ruined by the mud and sand, brought into it by the spring tides, and stopped from running out by those sluices. '' The fishing trade is the principal support of this town, viz. of mackarel and herring in their proper season (the first the fishermen call spotting, the other flewing), which are accounted the best of their kind which are caught on these coasts : the rest of the year they catch fiat-fish by trauling, which are carried away by the Rippiers (fishermoi of the place, so called from Bipa, the bank it stands upon) to London market^—j^urrff// MSS* '* Rye or Rie, sometimes wrote Rhie, in Latin Ria and Rhia. I cannot conclude to derive its name from Rie, the com so called (as Rieton in Warwickshire, in the opinion of Dugdale), because as the soil thereabouts is not very proper to bear it, so the people there are generally averse to it. Nor will I affirm that the name came from the rivulet Ree, before re* membered in Winchdsea, nor from Rhe or Rey, sometime used for river; though the river of Rother on the east, and the creek of the sea like a river running up on the west into the country between Peasmarah and Udimer, called yet Fillingfaam water, from a farm on Peasmarah side whidi it washeth, meeting together with the said Ree, and running out into the sea at the south east (and formerly more south) side of the town, might be supiMffied to have first occasioned the name. But it seems to me rather to take the name from the British word Rhy, signifying a ford, or as some say a Bay ; in reference to the former, importing the place where the Rivers of Rother and Ree were yet foxdaUe; and to the latter, the situation of the town in the bottom or middle of the bay made by the sea; between the Cliffy at Beechy and those at Folkstone, from whence the sea over against Rye, and near the shore, is still called Rye Bay. This ancient town is compact as a little dty, stored with buildings, and consisting of several streets, as the lower or longer street (in which standeth the Grammar School built by Thomas Peacock, Gent one of the jurats of the town. Anno 1636, and by his will, Sept 10, 1638, devised to that use; and by order thereof, and settlement of his executors, enjoying the yearly revenue of thirty-five pounds), besides which are the middle street, the butchery KYE. 287 (where is the Market-plaoe with the Town Hall) and the Watch*bell- street, with some cross streets running from one to the other. It is built on a little hill, now wasted^ on the south west^ souths south east, east, and north east sides of the town, by the flux and reflux of the sea, but especially on the two latter, where hath been washed away some streets, the Baddingf s Gate and wall leading therefrom to the Land Gate ; yet the compass of. the town may be about two hundred and seyenty-one rods : beautified with a large Church, called St. Mary, the goodliest edifice of that kind iii the Counties of Kent and Sussex, the Cathedrals excepted : Inclosed mith walls, as Cambden says, in the time of Edw. III. There are yet standing the Land Gate, called sometimes the North Grate, leading into the Country towards Kent ; the Postern Gate leading to the new Conduit; the Strand Gate or South Gate opening towards Winchelsea, where the old harbour was, though now more frequented on the east side of the town ; the Crun gar- den gate adjoining to Ipres tower, built by William de Ipre, Earl of Kent, and from him so called, afterwards purchased by the corporation, of Mr. Newbury, about the 10th year of Idng Henry VI L, and used to keep court in till the building of the Town Hall aforesaid, whence it got the i!kame of the Court House, and was then converted into a prison. And besides the chapel of St. Clare, (now used for a powder-house,) the chauiitry of St. Nicholas, the chancel whereof is still kept for an ammunition house, whereto it was converted, anno 17 Elizabeth, had a monastery of the Friers Heremites of St. Augustines, the chapel whereof is yet standing, erected anno 16 Henry VIII., and dissolved by him shortly after with the first dissolution, in the twenty-seventh year of his reign, becaciBe the revenues were not two hundred pounds per annum, so it had but a short standing, for that it was not elder than the sixteenth year of that Jang, I gather from a passage I found in the records of this town, in that year, which was thus : ^ " Eodem anno, silicet, quarto die Septembris, erect, fuit tegument fabri- cae fratrum heremitarum Sancti Augustini infra viUam < praedictam, ex impensis cujusdam Willielmi Marshe, Agricols : " 1. e. In the same year, that is to say, the fourth day of September, was erected the roof of the fabrick of the Friars Heremits of Saint Augustin, within the town aforesaid, at the costs of one William Marshe, Hus- bandman. ^' '' The town is of beautiful prospect to look upon any way, a convenient passage into Normandy, famous for fishing, as good >fish having been brought to market (before the French spoiled the fishing grounds) as any where in England, and yet the fish keep the name V ^ town, as Rye Herring, to sell the better in London. An ancient town it is called, and BO is, and with its sister town, or twin rather, Win(^elsea, hath very near shared equally in vicissitudes and misfortunes ; for in the time of Edward the Confessor, they were both given to the abbot and monks of Fischamp, (as before noted in Winchelsea) and afterwards reasdhmed in exchange by king Henry III., as by the exemplification of anotl^er king Henry follow- ing, doth plainly appear. , • ^ t '* Before which reassumption of king Henry J I L Ipth towns were added to the ports, according as is before asserted ; , nioth considerable fishing 288 COAST OF SUSSEX. • towns for so long ago as long Henry IV. anno 1400, the Rippiera of Rye and Windidaea, that famished London with fresh fish, were, as Grafton aays, priTil^ged to sdl their fiah there to whom they would ; and the Fiah- mongera of London prohibited to bay it to aell again by retale. Both were burnt by the French in the time of long Richard II. as I take it, and king Henry VI., about the twenty-^ixth or twenty-aerenth year of hia reign ; in which I anppoee the old reoorda and diartera of the town of Rye periahed ; becanae none elder than hia twenty-aerenth year, eave mily aome fragmenta, are to be aeen ; in which oonaumption, as conceived, die old dmrch was burnt, and thii now atanding built aince, the former atanding near to Iprea tower, in the place yet called the OldChnrch-yard. It never recovered ita ancient shipping aince the loaa of the Boiudeaux fleet, aa reported in the time of king Henry VIL, who in the third year of hia reign, thought it worth hia viait ; aa did hia grandchild and aucoeaaor. Queen £lizabeth, in 1573, who, from the noble entertainment she had, accompanied with the testimonies of love and byalty, duty and reverence ahe received from the people, was pleased to call it '' Rye RoyaL" Populoua* to ita capacity, it was in her reign, though much wasted by a peat in 1563, 80 that in the months of Auguat, September, and October, were buried 562 persona. Afterwarda it was r^lenished by the Frendi, who shdtered themselves here from the Massacre in France, 1572, and other trouUea of the protestants there ; so that anno 1582, upon an account taken, were found inhabiting here 1534 persons of that nation. By another plague it smarted again, anno 1596. Succoured the French proteatanta afterward, toward the latter end of king Jamea, till thinga looking better in that country encouraged them to return. It aufiered after thia by the plague, anno 1625, by the amall-pox, in the years 1634 and 1635, and 1654 and ] 655. Lost many vessels in the time of the wars between the king and parliament ; all which, with other thinga, have added to the decay and depopulation thereof. One hundred years after the visit of Queen Eliza- beth, the present prince, king Charles II., was pleased to see it, via. May, 1673, when hia Royal Navy, with the French fleet, ky in the bay, in aight of the town." MISCELLANEOUS.— ANCIENT DOCUMENTS. " Pleae a n're tres redoute S'r le Roi & a son Conseil d'avoir oonsidera- cion de k pouvre Ville de k Rye, coment il as este prise sovent foiz, et les Com'unes de k d'oe Ville ount apparallez les mures de v's latr'e, et a cause du port des dez Com'unes ik ne poont pluis reppailler des dez Mures p' ount k d'ce Ville de p't k mer est p'nable p' Enemies ; Et a k darrein prise de k d'ce Ville p' les dez Enemya, a louir revenue en Fraunce ai furont pluaoura de eux penduz et trainez a cauae qu'ik ne eusent tenuz le d'ce Ville, et si dotoms gfndement q' k d'ce Ville vera priae autre forth et tenuz en destruction du paiex enveron et g^nt p'il da Roialme. Par quoi suf^lient au v're tres haute S ne les dez Com'unes, pour Dieu et en oevre de Charite, gu'nter q. lea excesses et fyns faiz et levablea des vitallers et artificers et kborers devant les Justices del Pees en k Countee de Sus- sex, outre les gages de dez Justices, soient g'unteez alfacon et repadon des Mures de la d'ee Ville p' trois auns prch' ensuantz, en releve de la d'ee ViUe et Salvation de tout k paix environ.—S Richard II.— Par/. RoHs. BYE. 289 EXTRACTED PROM THE CtTSTOHAL OF THE FORT AND TOWN OF RTE. Lyons Dover, voL i. p. 342. *^ L That every year the Sunday next after the feast of Saint Bartholomew, all the men of the commonalty of the town, shall he assemhled at the church, heing within die chiirch*yard of the parish of the same Rye, and there hy the whole commonalty shall choose them a mayor. *' IV. The Mayor's Oath. Ye shall hear ftdth to our sovereign Lord the King of England and to the commonalty of the town of Rye, and the franchises and usages of the said town righteously shall maintain, and the common of the same keep, and right to the poor, as well as to the rich, do administer to your power. So help you . Xllth is of the coroner, and his office. ** XIII. And it is to he understood, that no hundred shall he holden after another, less than fifteen days asunder. And if any man come to pursue against him that is indicted hy appeal, he that is indicted diall be arraigned of the ssid felony ; and if he forsake the fdony, he shall he charged by the mayor unto his having acquittal, under the form ensuing; viz. he shall charge, at his own jeopardy, thirtyndx men, the king's true li^ge men, of good fam^ which shall be ready at the next hundred that unto them shall be assigned, and with thirty-six men shall put the appeal into the mayor^s hands ; and the common clerk shall read the names of the thirty-six men, and make every man answer to his proper name; and if any of the thirty-six men that shall stand before the county, or common assembly, be in default, or be present and will not answer, he that is Ap- pealed of that felony shall be aoyudged unto death. And in case every man of the thirty-six men as may be called answer to their names, as it is used and accustomed, by the king's grace the mayor there shall be left twelve of the thirty-six men aforesaid, and of the grace of the mayor and the jurats, other twelve men, so that the mayor shall choose which they will, that shall swear with him that is appealed, that he is not guilty of the felony which is to him imposed. And he who is appealed shall first swear upon the book which is to him imposed, as God will him help, ^d so he kiss the book. Afterwards must be called the twelve men, to swear with him as they are called every one severally by himself, that the oath which he who is appealed hath made is good and true ; and that he is guilty of nothing that is against him imposed ; and every man so loss the book. And if they do so he who is appealed shall be quit. And if any of them withdraw him from the book, he that is appealed shall be put to death. And if he be quit by the quest, then he who was appellant ought to be attached, and sll his goods in the town; and he must be hanged upon the Saltness, on the east side of the town, behind the salt water of the town. J ** XVIII. And when any man taketh the decree of the church, the mayor, as coroner, shall go unto him to inquire the cause of his coming to holy church ; and if he will acknowledge his felony, let it be enrolled, u ^90 COAST OF SUSSEX. and immediately he losedi all his goods and diattdb^ as a forfeitoie, of the which the mayor shall answer to the town; and if he con« fesses, he may remain in the church, and church-yard, twelve days ; and at the end of forty days he shall forsake the land ; and sitting upon the churdi-yard stile, hefore the mayor, he shall chuse the port of his passage; and in case he will make his abjuration within the forty days, he shall be accepted. And anon, by abjuration done, he shall take the crosi^ and the mayor shall do to be proclaimed, in the Kingfs name, that no man, upon pain of life and member, shall do him harm, or molestation all the while he keepeth the king's highway towards the port that he hath chosen for his passage. ** XIX. And when any man is found cutting a purse, or taking of silver out of a purse, he shall have one of his esrs cut off from his head, in the market-place, at the suit of the appellant. It is accustomed, that the said cut-purse, or picker of purse, shall have one of his ears cut from his head, and then he shall be led into the town, and there swear and abjure never to come into the town, upon pain of losing his other ear ; and in case he be found in any other line of Ufe, then to lose his other ear, and to abjure the town, upon pain of losing his Ufe; and if he be found the third time, whatsoever he swore before, he shall su£fer judgment. " XXV. Of true men's goods seized. Item, albeit that a true man's goods be seized among the goods of a felon, as it may fortune such goods were lent unto him ; if the true man can prove the goods to be his own, and the felon do not the contrary, the said goods ought to be restored to him that so doth challenge them, for a thief cannot forfeit other men's goods. *' XXXIV. Attachment in trespass of blood. Item, in trespass and blood shedding, and where a man is hurt, the defendant shall be attached by his body, and put into prison, without he may find sufficient pledges to undertake that he shall be at tiie next king's court holden. If he appears not, he and his pledges shall be amerced, and he shall be put to better pledges, viz. two or three pledges ; and so, too, in a case from court to court, two pledges. The amercements shall be the first court, sixpence; the second, twelve pence; and so every court if the mayor and jurats wilL The amercements shall increase sixpence, in like sum, as it is in the increase of the pledges, until the time that he will appear to answer; and in case he fail in every of his pleas, as it is aforesaid, then his body shall remain in prison, until the time that he hath answered unto the party ; and so always, provided that the increasing of the amercements be seized^ and taxed, at the consideration of the mayor and Jurats. ^' XL VI II. Withernam, and of process. The mayor and jurats may, as they ought to do, take withernam of the citizens of London, as they think it convenient to be done, for any cause done against their liberties; and they may, as they ought to do, take withernam for many causes done unto the mayor and jurats, desiring them to write their letters, under their seal of offioe of the mayoralty, or else under the common seal, when the RYE. ^91 cue it requires, to pray for him, unto the citizens of London, or unto the burgesses of Calais, or unto any other place within the reahn, or without^ wheresoever the King, or sovereign lord li^;e, hath amity, that they will .do> and see to be made due payment and satisfaction of such «um of money, for covenant or trespass, which the Combaron of the Cinque Ports could justify. *' LI. Partnership in merchandise. The freemen of Rye were wont^ and ought to be, partners in merchandize, of all sorts, whether they be in presence in bujring or selling of it, whether they will claim any part, whether the buyer or the sdler thereof be freeman of Rye^ or stranger ; reserve and except^ where he who so daimeth part of the said merchandize, is not worthy to have part^ as he who is convicted of peijury, or else that he hath been adjudged, that he should have no part of any merchandize ; because he did come away from the franchise at the time he should pay his part for the king's service; or else that he was come away in the time of war, and come not again within the time to him limited of his coming, for the defence of the town ; or else he hath done any thing prgudidal to the franchise, whereby he is a4jndged to lose his freedom, and free custom 3 or else, where before time he hath been bought in the said merchandize, hath been losing money, he hath refused to pay his part of the said loss, after his rate or proportion. " LVIIL Orphans and their goods. In case any man or woman die within the franchise of Rye, and they be within age, then the mayor shall have the veve of the child, and of all his goods, rents, and tenements, and of all his moveable goods, and by the mayor and jurats the child shall be put to ward to the next of kinsman that the child hath of his blood, unto whom his inheritance may not descend; and all the goods and chattels shall be delivered unto the guardian, by indenture between the mayor and the said guardian, until the time the child shall be of full age ; and that one part of the said indenture shall remain in the common treasury ; and in case there be none of the child's blood, then the mayor shall take, and deliver the aforesaid goods unto some 8u£Scient man of the franchise, in keeping until the child become of full age, at which time tlie child shall have them delivered to his use. *' LIX. Nomination of chaplain to Saint Bartholomew's diurch ; and admitting brethren and sisters there. It is the mayor of Rye, and the jurats, with the commonalty, shall have the nomination of the chaplain, who is called the custos of the hospital of Saint Bartholomew, bedde Rye; which said chaplain his name, in time of peace, shall send unto the abbot of Feram ; and, in the time of war, unto the Lord Chancellor of England, and by one of them he shall be presented unto the Bishop of Winchester, and by him shall have institution. And also the mayw of Rye diall take account of the chaplain of Saint Bartholomew's, four times in a year, if he will ; and in the said hospital be both brethren and sisters, sometimes more and sometimes less ; but nevertheless, neither the brethren nor the sisters shall be admitted into the said hospital, unless it be by the assent of the mayor and of the commons. And also the rules and statutes of the said u 2 ^S COAST OF SUSSEX. hospital shall he read hefore the brethreD and sistcn, which shall be accepted and received^ before he be received. *^ LXV. Biugesses to the Coronatioa. The Barons of the Cinque Ports are to be summoned to the long and queen's coronation, by certain forty days before the coronation, by writing, and of all the Ports together there must be thirty-two barons, in one dothing, and they shall hour .the doth over the king and queen, with four spears, covered with silver, and four Uttle bells gilt, hanging dwve the doth, which is called the Pall, and shall come from the king's treasury ; and at each of these four spears shall be attending four barons of the said Cinque Portsy and the said barons, on the said day, shall sit in the king's hall, at dinn^, next to the king and queen, on the right hand." Mueellaneous JHSS» ** 2 Ed. 6.— S6 Jan. 3d. vicelecta est biDa" for the amending of the haven of Rye, for making of certain sluices about die towns of Rye and Win- didsea, " que omnium Procerum assensu condusa est, excepto D^no Windesor."— Xrf2f. Joumah, voL i. p. 335. '' 2 Ed. 6.-6 Martii, Sd. vice lecta est biDa" for the towns of Rye and Windidsea, and for casting of ballast into the Camber, ^ que commoni omnium Procerum assensu condusa est"— /^u/, p. 349. Cotton MSS. Galba C. tit. contains, p. 258, "the names of all the strangers," &c. ( . . bttrnt) ** Flemynges and Wallownes within her Maties Town of Rie taken before John Sharpe maior of the said T. Edward Middleton maior of Her ma'ties town ^ Winchdsey and Thomas Wilford Esquier, Captn of her castle of the Camber, in the Town hall of Rie afore- said the 20th Dale of Marche in the deventh yere of her highenes reign, A« D" 1569." Lansd. MS* 67, p. 35. « To Lord Burleigh. ** Our duties to your honor most humbly remembered. So it is if it please your honor that the bearer hereof, an Italyan, now of late havenige paused your haven and harbour of Rye, and all the indraughts sea marks and water spryngs nere to the same, he hath MthfuUy promysed that within fewe years he will make the saide haven and harbor of Rye (the Camber onlye excepted) more s^rvyceable than it hath been at any tyme heretofore, w'di worke he wolde be content, to begynne in the springe of this next yere, if it may stand with the good pleasure of your honor and of the rest of the lords of her mijesty's most honorable privy councdL Wherin we most humbly desire your honorable furtherance to her mat)" to- werde sndi worke, as your honor shall finde the same to be profitable and commodious for the most parte of the realme uaeing the seas. And also to harbor her mat* shipps when cause requireth and to maintain the pro- vydon of fyshe, wherewith her ma*^ and divers of great honor have been from hence wdl served. Towerde thadvancement of Vch worke your honor shall finde us most reddye to thuttermost of our abilities. But herin the Italyen desireth her mig» privilege that duringe his lyffe none do attempt to perform or amend any havens or creeks in England by that meanes that he shall do this worke by, the same not beinge put in use by RYE. 5^93 any other heretfore. And thus refeninge ourselveB and the estate of this our towne and countrye aiQoyning to your honorable consideration, we most humUy take our leave. At Rye,theTii*i> of December, 1591. Your honor's most bounden the maior and juratts of Rye. Robert Carpenter, maior. Robert Bett, WyDyam Ratdiff, WyDlam Colkyn, Hen. Gaymer, William Didsbnry, Thomas Ck>Ibrans, John . . • •" In the Lansdowne MSS. is, 1586, a letter of the Mayor of Rye, acquaint- ing Lord Cobham with the landing of Julio Marino, a suspicious person. 56 Lansdowne MS, p, 62. ** Rig^t Honorably we thought it our duties with that convenient speed we myght to signifie what news our passengers have brought from Ddpe. Three of them came in this last midnight tyde, havinge byn longer there, w'ch gave us cause to suspect that they were there stayed. They sale that the Captainne of Ddpe came unto them, beddinge them despatche and get them soone to hdpe and defende their country (as they tooke it) in a moddnge looke. They reporte for truth that there is at Ddpe about twdve great shippes of the burden between vii and vi^ tunnes a maldnge ready, with all the'r speede that may be, beades divers other smaller vessds. And that there is also dghty sdles of shippes in aredynes at Newehaven (Havre de Grace), and that the en'myes is come to New- haven with twenty thowsand men. *' It may please your honor to be also advertised that our towne at this present is but weakdy manned with English men, for there is called from thence three hundred and fifty four, to serve hir M^jestie at the seas, and not of the worst men. And Tenterden beinge a member to our towne is able to supply our want in some reasonable measure, if they be not called from it, whidi if they should, they and we Idke to be in great distress, for that the country adjoining uppon us is called to serve in other places. Wherefore our humble snte to your Honor is, that it wold please you tostande so good Lo'untousasto write your lines to the bayliff and jurats of Tenterden, that they have their people in a readynes whensoever the maior and jurats of Rye shall sende for them, wherennto we know they will be very willinge if so from your they be commanded, fibr with your honorable favor toward us, we shall be bounden to pray for your good Lo. And so most humbly we leave your honor to the custody of the Almightie, from Ry this first of August, 1588. Your honoris most humble at commandment the maior and jurats of Rye. — ^To the rig^t honorable our very good Lord the Lo Burldg^ Lo Hi^ treasurer of England. Lansdowne MSS. p. S7. fA damaged document of about 34 pages.) ** Articles to be mynystered unto such persons as are to be ezamyned toudiing the abuse oomytted at Rye by certain fyshermen, in the month of Maye, 1582, agaynst William Haynes, Her Majesties purveyor for sea- fish, as foDoweth." And examinations th^re taken. Queen Elizabeth's Progresses. " Thence to Rye, where the Queen remained three days, and conferred the honour of knighthood on Thomas Guilford, Thomas Waldngham, and Alexander Culpepper, Esqs." 9Qi COAST OF SUSSEX. '' Venit Riam, maritimuxn in Soasexia oppidum atque portum ; ad quern ante ilium diem nunquam R^em aut Reginam peryenisae ridicule aiunt ; elapaoque ihi triduo^ ^c" '' Camber Castle, near Rye. Captain's fee per day, 2s ; Porter's^ 6d ; Soldier's 9, le peeoe 6 ; Gunner's 17, le peece 6.— Thomas Wilford, captain, 1580. (MS Knight)"— PecAr'j Desiderata Curiosa, 2nd book, p, 14^ a. Burrell MSS. Jeake, p. S7. " To the right worshipfull, our loving friends, the Maior and Aldermen ofHulL *' Right Worshipfull,— With our due and hearty commendations we salute you. Whereas of late we wrote our letters to you in the behalf of our honest neighbour and combaron, Edward Beale, touching certain duties ye required of him, which he denies to pay, being a freeman of the ports ; he hath made relation unto us of your courteous usage of him, for which we thanke you, being ready to requit it to any of your people, as occasion shall serve. But yet he advertiseth us, that ye stand in doubt, that we be not free of Anchorage and Juttage, and hath prayed us to certify you therein. These are therefore to signify to you for truth, that neither we nor any of our ancestors, have ever paid any anchorage within this realme, for it is one of the chiefest things whereof we are and always have been free . And for juttage, we never heard that it hath been demanded of any of the ports untill now. For whereas, we are by our charter free of terrage ; if we pay anchorage we cannot be terrage free; for groundage and anchorage is within the compass of that word terrage, for there is seldom anchor hold without ground *. And for juttage, we cannot be free of ry vage, if we be compelled to pay for juttage; for to be free of ryvage is to arrive freely and depart fredy without any exaction. Besides ihe general words of our charter is, that we shall have all liberties and quietances throughout the realme of England, &c. ; and our liberties are such, as we are free of all taxes, exactions, and demands, whatsoever, except any act of parliament bind us thereunto. Thus having briefly certified you in what sort we have ever hitherto been free from such duties paying, as you now demand of the said Edward Beale, and praying you to deal so friendly with him^ as he may enjoy the liberties of a freeman of the ports, as lus auncestors before him have done^ '' We commit yon, &c ** Your Worship's loving friends, '« June 20, 1 580. '* The Maior and Jurats of Rye." * This is a gravely ironical, and, certainly, well grounded argument. It is something like ** The Spanish fleet I cannot see, because It is not yet in sight !** — Ed. HYE. 295 Addressed '' To the Rt. Honble, our singular good Lord, the Lord Zowch St, Mawreand Cantelupe, Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports and their Members: one of the Lords of His Mctjestys most honorable Privy Counsel of Greate Brittaine. *' Rt HonbIe.--Oiir moBt humble duty lemembred^ the experience of your honorable diBpositiony care, and desire of good^ towards tkia our poor decaied town^ hath moyed ub, yet, once again, to make known to your good lordship, our wants and miserable poor estate, as unto our only stay and refbge, next under God and his miyestie ; and whereas we have here- tofore been> by reason of a harbour in some trade and commerce by sea, enabled to bear aboute the charge and maintenance of this towne; but now (although we have long sewed for hdp in this case) is our harbour so decaied, that all trade hath forsaken us, and besides the importable charge in defending the rage of the ses, from eating up our waies to the towne, and maiming the jutties and places of refuge, for our few fisher-boats yet remaining, with the extreme poverty of our fishermen, who, by reason of the great spoyle of fish and fishing places so decayed, that hundreds of them are r^y to begg and starve for Want, and many of them, forsaking the towne, have left their wives and children to be parish charge, and those of trades, as, God knows, there are verie fewe, and they so burdened and surcharged by continual sesses and taxes, we having no revenewes, nor other means to maintain the towne, are most of them determined rather to seek other dwellings, than here by such extraordinary impositions and charges, to decay and impoverish themselves, whereby it is likely that in abort tym^ this towne, that hath been not long since, of good respect and importance, is now in possibilitie (if some gracious aspect shine not upon it) to be quite depopulate and abandoned: and whereas of late, by order fiom the r^t honble. the Lords of his Mijesties Privy Coundl, directed unto us by your honorable commandment, we are appointed to that pro- vision of powder, lead, match, with carriages and mounting of ordenance, that formerly, in the late Queen's tyme, this towne was enjoined unto when her mijesties ordenance were here, which now are taken hence bug sinc^ by commission ; as also then the towne was in prosperitie and abilitie ; but now, alas! our miserable povertie is such, though it be for that end and purpose, wherdn with willing hartes under his miyesties and your honorable commandement, we are ready to spend our lives; yet, notwith- standing, we beseech a due consideration may be had of the present state of this towne, and the inabilitye thereof, most humbly praying your honor- able and most gracious favor, in consideration of the premises, to com- miserate and pity this our poor towne, so far forthe as to manifest and declare the state thereof to the right honorable Board, that thereby some manner of relief may be extended unto us to wlieve our present wants, and especially of the said proportion ; in all which we referr ourselves to your lordship's high wisdom, not doubting of your honorable furtherance, and oontinueing alwaies good lord unto us, unto whose protection we humbly betake oursdves, always praying for your lordship's long life, with encrease of many honors.— From Rye, the third day of March, 1618. ** Your honor's most humbly at commandm', " The Maior and Jurats of Rye,'^ 296 COAST OF SUSSEX. Addressed '^ To the RU Honble. my singular good Lord, the Lord 2^uch, Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, and one of the Lords of His Majesty's most honorable Privy CounseL " Rt Honble.— My humble dutie remembred imto yoor good lordship, may it please your honor to voadisafe to be sdTertiaed, that the hundred pounds whidi, by your honoi's and your lordship's commandinent, was of late taxed and levied in the portes, and their members, for and towsids the suppresong of the pirates of Aigire* md Tunis^latdy came to my hands; and I have taken order that one Mr. Fortrey, a merdiant, dwdling in Graoechurch Street, London, shall pay the same when and where your lordship shaU command. '' I have reeeiTed advertisement from the said ports and townes, that at iStoB present they find this charge heavy to them, especially iiom Dover, Rie, and "Wlnchelsea, by reason of the little means they have to maintain that number of ships, which they must find when cause shall require, the trade of the ports being generally taken away, (fixr remedy wherein, thdr humble suit is yet depending before their and your honorable good knrd- ahips) whose present poor estate they hope that most honoraUe Board will so oommisserate, as that they may be permitted to use that privilege of firee trade, wherein they never were interrupted, until of very late years, by the special sute and means of those merdiant adventurers of London that seek to enridi themsdTes by the deeay of his m^jes^'s uicient and defoi- siUe ports. ^ They have entreated me, as well in respect of their fuwaidness in this service, as also in regard of the great services by them and their anoeston^ heretofore done, and hereafter to be pcEformed, to be an humble suitor to your honour by my letter, to be pleased to continue your lordship's aocus* tomed favor towards them in their said humble suit, for their said free trading, whereby such shippes (as to their great diaiges they have lately builded), do not decay in harbours for want of meanes to employ them; and thus having imboldened mysdf to perform what I was desired to write, I humbly take leave, and ever rest, as I am bounden, ** Your honor's, at all commandment, « Wm. Ward. '' Dover, this 27th of Dec. 1619." Transcribed from the Ma of Sir Charles Hedgest relative to the Cinque Ports, marked 50 Na 991 (penes Wm. Madiam» LL. D. Advocate of Drs. Commons, 17 7 l.)'-BurreU MSS. RYE. Barks and vessds returned 14th Oct 1626:— 16 barques from U to 40 tons burthen, amounting altogether to S95 tons. No gunners, pilots, or ordnance. Mariners, fishermen 66. — Burr ell MSS, * This is one of the old modes of qpelUng that word. « Prosp. Where was she bom ? Ariel Sir, in Aigier.** I RYE. £97 HASTINGS. 528 barques from 18 to 40 tons, maJdngy in the whole, 670 tons No ordnance. Mariners, sailors^ and fishermen^ 127. No gunners. No pilots for the English coast as masters. — Burrell MSS. DESCRIPTION. The approach to Rye is picturesque, from its being at high- tide nearly surrounded by water : the low and massive centre tower of the church with a pointed roof, and Ipres"" tower, are conspicuous objects. The harbour was much improved by a new channel, cut by a Dr. Pape, vicar of Penn, in this vicinity, who also threw a dam across the old channel, which is considered to be a work of great ingenuity. Ships of 200 tons' burthen can come up to the north quay of the town, one mile and a half from the sea. George I. was compelled to put into this harbour in a tempestuous season of the year V!2Sy being unable to make that of Dover, on his return from Holland ; but had some difficulty in getting to land, and the large ships were unable to follow him. " The Port of Rye extends from Jewry's Gut (about two miles to the eastward of this harbour), to Beachy Head ; and Hastings and Eastbourne are creeks of this Port ^* The imports are principally in Dutch cheese, timber from Norway and America, rags for manure from Hambro\ eggs, poultry, rape and linseed cake from France ; and this having lately been made a bonding-port for wine, some has been imported from Boulogne. *^ The exports are not of any magnitude, except in wool, large quantities of which have been exported, within the last two years, to France and Ostend •." The population of Rye, in 1881, was S715, an increase of 1500 since the year 1801. It loses one member by the Reform Bill. * Obligingly communicated by Mr. W. Watson, Collector of Customs at Rye. 898 COAST OF SUSSEX. Rye is at the eastern extremity of the coast of Sussex, and more than 80 miles from Chichester. Beyond it, at the distance of a mile or two, is Kent, ^ the dvilest place in all this isle." The ground was there pre-occupied, or our humble topo- graphical labours might have been more successful than in the county of Sussex ; less, hitherto, were impossible. Rye church is popularly considered to be one of the largest in England ; but if it be in the first class, it is decidedly not near the summit It is described as having a nave one hundred feet long, and chancel sixty, with a tower between them ; but the tower should have been included in the length of the nave; the whole interior length is 161 feet. The chancels, indeed, of which there are three of equal height and length, 60 feet in the latter, and in width 28 feet in the centre, and ^ in the other two, are decidedly grand ; and if the sides were well kept, and laid open to the centre, would form one of the finest tiers of aisles in England. The transept, which is very slightly projecting, is rather more than 80 feet in length *• The architecture throughout is mixed early Gothic and Nor- man, or Saxon ; it must be, of course, a decided mistake to suppose that the whole of this church was destroyed in the fourteenth century. Its principal curiosity is the great Clock, which unvarying tradition asserts to have been taken from the Spanish Armada, and given to the town by Queen Elizabeth. It has a very large dial, with quarter-jacks, like those formerly at St. Dunstan's, and bells, but these are said to have been subse- quently added. The church has been considerably mutilated, and disfigured with bad windows ; still it has some grand fea- tures. In the south chancel are some windows similar to those in the western aisles of Westminster Abbey ; at the east end, one very fine one, and a very elegant flying buttress. The nave is decently fitted up, and has a small organ at the west end. The north chancel is in a state of lumber, with engines &c., and has most of its windows blocked up ; still it has a • In the north transept is a Norman arch, in the wall, with a chain moulding ; a very curious if not almost unique \iu:iety. I EYE. 299 grand, though wild, appearance, and the floor is thick set with brasses ; the south chancel is completely desecrated, and used as a work-room in aid of the poor-house. The centre chancel alone is well kept, and divided from the sides, but the three bold arches and pillars of each are visible. Passing under the tower, the long gilt-lead pendulum of the Spanish clock switigs a few feet above the head of the spectator. Over the arch are the arms of Queen Anne, and a lofty and rather stately altar-piece appears to be of the same sera; its communion table is of old mahogany finely inlaid, with richly carved legs, and has been conjectured to be also a spoil of the Armada, an idea which is deserving of notice. In a vault in the south aisle were dis- covered several stone balls, but these have not the high meed assigned to them of that of Hastings ; which, like ** little Dicky/' in Kenilworth, seems to be ** all the better for its accidents ; " they are supposed to have been merely propelled by ^' villanous saltpetre from the bowels of the earth." We ascended to view the clock, but observed nothing remarkable in its works, which are entirely of iron ; the hour-weight is three cwt. From the top of the tower may be seen the shore of Boulogne. It contains eight bells, six of them old. We here saw an exemplification of the adage, that *^ necessity is the mother of invention.^ The ringing loft is immediately under the bell-chamber, and the sound was consequently deafening and perplexing. The expedient was adopted of covering the floor under the bells with turf a foot thick. This has been so completely successful that the sound is almost entirely lost. Ipres' tower is now the town gaol ; it is in good preserva* tion, but an ugly building : near it is, or was, a battery. The remtuns of the Friary are now used as a store-house. Rye is a tolerably built town, but rather dull. The school- house is a curious old brick building, with pilasters, and other ornaments of the same, and an antique diaL The market- house, town-hall, and assembly-room, is a spacious and very neat building of brick, on pillars, much superior in appearance to that at Hastings. 900 COAST OF SUSSEX. CINQUE PORTS. After considerable difficulty and delay we have obtaiDed access to a copy of ^* Jeake^s History of the Cinque Ports, '^ a tliin folio, which, for what reason we know not, is of the utmost possible rarity, and consequent value; and the reader has many passages from it transferred for his information into the present work. We believe that there are not six copes of the volume to be met with in the counties of Kent and Sussex, in which the Ports lie, and it is not to be found in many of the best public libraries. Its great value consists in its having been written about one hundred years back, before many of the documents which it contains or refers to were lost: and subsequent to that period, the customalsy &c. have been kept with such jealous care that they are not seen by any one once in a quarter of a century. Three only of the ports were incorporated before the con- quest by Iklward the Confessor, as Lord Coke supposes ; and from the mention of Dover, Sandwich, and Bomney as pri- vil^ed ports in Doomsday Book, it is supposed these were the three. Hastings and, it is supposed, Hythe were added by the Conqueror, who, from a particular regard for the former, as the seat of his victory, made it the head and chief port. Their charters were confirmed by Henry I. and Edward I. : the most important one contained privileges supe- rior to those enjoyed by the city of London, and was anterior to theirs by nearly 100 years. They Had two great courts, the lesser one, called the Court of Gueslling or Brotherhood, which was held annually on the Tuesday after St Margaref s day, at New Romney, and ccmsisted of seven delegates from each of the Cinque Ports and the ancient towns of Winchelsea and Rye, with a speaker and other officers. Some resemblance of this court is, we believe, still kept up in issuing the sum- i CINQUE PORTS. 301 mona annually, though, we believe, a full court has not been held for the last sixty years, though attempts were made to put in force the due formalities in 1811 and 182S. The great court for all the ports and members, called that of ShejH way^ was held by the king^s summons before the lord warden at Shepway CrosSy near Hytbe; this is now only formally convened on the election of a new warden. The principal civil prerogatives of the ports, in addition to their naval jurisdiction, are the returning members to parlia- ment from each, and the service of carrying, by their barons, the canopies over the king and queen at the coronation, with certain privileges and honours thereto belonging. The extent of the lord warden^s jurisdiction is from Red Cliff, near Seaford, to Shoe Beacon, near the Isle of Sheppey, in Essex, and he has free warren in a considerable district in Kent. The arms of the Cinque Ports are ** per pale gules and azurcy three demi-lions or^ impaling azurey three semi-ships argent^ In 5 Henry VIII. it was ordered, that " everie per- son who goeth into the navy of the Portis shal have a cote of white cotyn with a red crosse and the arms of the Portb under- neath ; that is to say, the halfe lyon and the halfe ship.^' And at a brotherhood held in 1603, at the time of the coronation of James I., it was ordered that the dress of the canopy- bearers should be ^* a scarlet gowne downe to the ancle, citi- zen *s fashion, faced crymson * satten, Gascaine hose, crymson silk stockings, crymson velvett shoes, and black velvett capes.^^ We regret exceedingly that time and space prevent our entering into a minute account of the Cinque Ports, as we have seldom found any history so interesting. More extended par- ticulars will be found in Hasted*s Kent and Lyon's Dover, and in that very judicious work Mosses Hastings. As this gentleman confined his views to a much less ample field, he had greater opportunities of enlargement. Several extracts from Jeake will also be found in the latter ; * CrimBon was originally the name of a stuff, as we read of ** purple and white crimosin," — E(L 30:3 COAST OF SUSSEX. ours, which are principally different, and therefore novel, are as follows : pobtb' j>oom8day book *. " Which I 80 call to dintingnifih it from the other, &c. &c. in imitaticm. of which this latter seems to have heen mad^ containing, besides the whde tenures and orders of the Castle of Dover^ the names of the Cinque Ports, two ancient towns and their memben of old, with the services they were to perform, and the authority and custom of the Court of Shq>way, with the articles inquirable there, which book was kept with the records of the castle till the late times, though now, as I have heard, removed and missing. In this book as aforesaid, the several proportions of the shipping respeo- tivdy to be found by the ports and members is set down, as by the memo- randum hereof among the records of the town of Rye, foL 56 of their old customal, and specified as an ordinance of the king, touching the service of shipping, anno Domini, 1229." Doomsday. " Isti sunt portus Regis Ang^e habentes libertates quas alii portus non habent, viz. prout plenius palet in cartis inde factis." *' Hastyng.— Ad quam pertinent tanquam membra unus vicus litus maris in Seford, Peivinse, Bulwareth, Hydonye, Iham, Bekysbom, 6r&- necha, et Northye. Servida inde debita Domino Regi xxi naves et in qualibet nave xzi homines cum uno gariione\ qui didtur gromet." ** Wyndidsey et Rye, tanquam membra.— Viz*. Wynchelsey z naves^ Rye quinque naves, cum hominibus et gartionibus ut supra." • • « « *' Sum' navium lvii naves; sum' hominum in eisdem mcxjl homines, ex- cept' gartionibus; sum' gartionum lvii; sum' to^'* personarum mczcvii persons. *' Servidum quod Barones Quinque Portuum recognoscunt faoere Regi ad summon' servicii per zl dies ante exit. sciL per annum si contigerit, est per XV dies ad custum eorum proprium ita quod primus dies computetur a die quo vda navium erexerent ad sigland, ad partes ad quas tendere debent, et ulterius, quam diu Rex voluerit, ad custodiend, R^;is ordinat. An« Domini m.cc».xxix«." " These are the ports of the King of England, having liberties which other ports have not, that is to say, as more fully appeareth in the charters thereof made." " Hasting. — To which pertaineth as members, one town on the sea shore, inSeaford,Pevensea, Bulvarithe, Hydney, Iham, Beaksbome, Greuch, and Northye. The services thereof due to our Lord the King 21 ships, and in each ship «1 men, with one boy, who is called a grometX*' • That there was such a book, and so called, appears plainly. Pat. 34 Edw. III. part 1. Mem. 45 in the Tower, &c. &c Jeake. f Query Garfonf French. — Ed. t Gronif Dutch for a stripling, from whence our word GroonL^L^eake, CINQUE PORTS. 303 ^' Winchelflea and Rye as members.— That is to say> Winchelsea 10 sbips and Rye 5 ships^ with men and boys as above." « • • « '' Sum of the ships, 57 ships; sum of the men in them^ 1140 men, ex« cept boys ; sum of the boys, 67 ; sum total of the persons, 1197 persons." ** The services which the Barons of the Cinque Ports acknowledge to do to the King, at the summons of the service by 40 days before the going out, viz. : yearly if it shall happen for 15 days, at their own cost, so that the first day be reckoned from the day on which they shall hoist up the sails of the ships to sail to the parts to which they ought to go, and further as long as the King will, to be kept by ordinance of the King. Ah9 Do* mini 1229." Mr. Jeake observes that the ten ships found by Winchel- sea and the five by Rye, must be taken in part of the twenty- one from Hastings, otherwise there would be seventy-two in the whole. LORD WARDEN. The present is that distinguished military character, his Grace the Duke of Wellington, who is also Constable of Dover Castle, an office which has been for some time annexed to the former, though the warden of the Cinque Ports has a resi- dence at Walmer Castle, near Deal. " Warden^ now commonly stiled the Lord Warden^ because oftentimes the wardens have been of nobility^ and sometines princes of the blood royaL It is an office none less than a knight ought to occupy. This great officer or Litnenarcha as Cambden obseryes^ was an imitation of the same officer^ which the Romans* established for defence of our coasts^ and called Littoris Saxonid^ or Tractus Maritimi, Nomes^ who had the charge of nine sea-ports^ and it is no doubt> but these Cinque Ports and Towns were under some special government in the time of the Saxons, necessity ao requiring, though guardian, from whence warden in plain English^ keeper, and in Latin, custos, imports the name imposed by king William the con- queror : yet may it not thence be concluded, that the office was bom with him, seeing his design was to have altered the whole language he found here, by enjoyning the teaching here of his own French tongue to chil- dren, the grammar in schools, the laws and pleadings thereof in this tongue, shortly after his settlement in the throne. These wardens there- fore, being set for the defence of the ports and coasts on which they are, and as the chief commanders of their ships they were to furnish to sea, gave them as well the name of admirals, in respect of their office as to the sea, as wardens, with reference to their care in keeping and preserving the liberties of the ports at land, both as mediators between their sovereigns • At least under Conatantine the Great, who did, amongst others, appoint such officers, and some say the office was executed under Valentinian by Nee- taridius. vid. Selden's Maredausum.— «7ea^. 804 COAST OF SUSSEX. and diem^ if diffinfenoes should arise there ; and as judges among them, and between them and others, to guard and defend them against the ui^ust encroachments of foreigners upon their rights snd jurisdictionsy and to determine such difibrenoes as mig^t grow irreconcilable (without sn inter- posing power) and correct the errors and irT^;ularities in judgment as mig^t happen among themaelveB ; for ss to the former, he is the imme- diate officer of the king to the porta, and hath the return of his writs that run there, they being directed to him ; and as to the latter, the causes were hesid, and judgment oonceming them given in the old court of Shep- way, and courts of chancery and admirslty, which since frequented have wididrawn to the latter most of the matters determinable in the former, and drawn too much obscurity thereon. That the warden of the ports mig^t have a place of residence near the ports, and a seat suitable to his quality, is the castle of Dover committed to his charge and custody, of whidi he is slso entitled the constable, as hereafier doth appear. And though I will not say, but anciently they mig^t serve for titles of honour and office, to several persons, yet long since the constableship of Dover csstle, and wardenship of die Cinque Ports, have both been conjoined in one person." __^^_^^_ HASnNOS WITH ITS irBMBBBS. ** Hastyng est capitalis Portus, cujus membra sunt, videlicet, Wyndid- Bee, Rie, Leucata de Pevense et Bulvarheth, in Com. Sussex, Bekesbome, et Greneche, in Com. Kane qui Portus cum snis membris predictis debent* invenire ad som' R^;is viginti et unam naves, et in qualibet nave debentt esse viginti et unum homines, fortes, apti, bene armati, et apparati ad ser- vicia Regis, ita tsmen quod somonitio inde fiat ez parte R^;is per quad- raginta dies ante. £t cum predicts naves et homines in illis ezistentes ad ilium locum venerint, ad quem fiierunt sommoniti, morabuntur ibidem in servicio Domini Regis per quindecim dies ad custus suos proprios. £t si Rex servicio illorum post predictos quindecim dies indiguerit ; sen ipsos ibidem amplius moravi voluerit, erunt naves illie cum hominibus in illis ezistentibus in servicio Regis morantes ad custus Regis quamdiu Regi placaerit, videlicet, msgister capiet sex denarios per diem, et quilibet alkxrum capiet tresdensrios per diem. OOBONATION SERVICE. Et quoad servicia in coronatione, &c. continentur in eodem libro sic : Anno visesimo^ Regis Henrid filii Regis Johannis coronata Regina Alia- nora, filia Hugonis, Comitis Provinds, apud Westmonssterium dominica ante purificationem beate Marie, inter alia invenitur sic: Pannum vero de Cerico§ quadratum purpureum quatuor hastis de argentads, sustentatum cum quatuor campanellift argenteuB et deauratis ultra Regem incedentem quocunque incederet, gestabant Barones Quinque Portuum, asdgnati ad quamlibet hastam quatuor pro diversitate Portuum ne videretur Portus Portuum preferri. Consimiliter unum pannum sericum supra Reginam post Regem incedentem. Quos quidem pannos suos esse de jure vendi- cant, et illos obtinuerunt in Curia, licet Marchiones de Marchia Wallie, * Debet. f Debet | Vicesimo. § Serico. — JeaA«. .€INaU£ rOBTS. 305 ?i2. Johannes filfus Alani, Radulphus de Mortuo nuuri, Johannes de Mo- nemne^ et Walterus de Clyfibrd, nomine marchise jus marchife esse dioerent hastas inveniendas et illas deferendas. Sed quodammodo frivolum repu* tabatur. Asserehant autem Barones de Quinque Portubus jus suum pedendi in mensis Regiis eadem die a dextns Domini Regis, et ita sede- rant Ckminertam est edam in quodam quaterno libro ad scaccarium Anno trigesimo pnmo dicti Regis Edwardi filii Henrici/'->Jea/rr. << Hasting is an Head-port*, whose members are, vis. Winchelsea, Rye^ the Lowey of Perenaey, and Bulvarhithe, in the county of Sussex, Beaks- borne and Grenche, in the county of Kent, which port, with its members aforesaid^ ought to find at the summons of the king twenty and one ships* and in erery ship there ou^t to be twenty and one men, strong, apt, well- armed, and preparedt for the services of the king ; so that the summons thereof be made of the part of tlie king by forty days before : and when the said ships, and men in them being, shidl come to that place to which they were summoned, they shall tarry there in the service of our lord the king, by fifteen daies, at their own costs ; and if the king shall need their service after the aforesaid fifteen daies, or will them there longer to tarry, the ships, with the men in them, being in the service of the king, shall be abiding at the costs of the king, as long as it shall please the king, viz. the master shall take sixpence per day, and the constable:^ sixpence per day^ and every one of the others shaP take three-pence per day," ^ And as to the service in the coronation, &c. it is contained in the same booke thus:— in the twentieth yeare of King Henry, the son of King John, queen Elianor, the daughter of Hugh, Earl of Provence, being crowned at Westminster on Sunday before the Purification of the blessed Marie, among other things it is found thus : and a doth, foure square, of purple silke by foure stavesf, silvered over, borne up with foure little bells sUver and gilt, over the king, going whither he would, did the Barones of the Cinque Ports assigned beare, at every Staffe foure, according to the diversity of the ports, lest port should seeme to be preferred to port||. Likewise the same, a silke dot hover the queene, going after the kinglf ; which said dothes they did daime to be theirs of right, and obtained them in court, although the Marquesses of the mardies** of Wales, viz. Jdin Fitz Alan^ Ralfe de Mortimer, John de Monemne, and Walter de Clyfibrd, * A chief port, or capital port, and so again afterward. f Furnished, or ready. I Constable of a ship in Dutch is used for a gunner. § Or spears, and so afterward. II That is, one with another, the Barons at the staves, without respect to which of the ports they did belong. ' f By this is to be understood, that the Barons of the ports did bear the canopy over the queen as well as over the king. ** Or Marquisate, and so afterward, viz. those lords that were governors of the marches of Wales, by the force of the Liatin word, are here rendered Marquisses, and Wales a marquisate, otherwise none in England, till King Richard the SecoJuL-^eahe, 306 COAST OF SUSSEX. in the name of the marquisate;, said it to he the right of the maninisate to find and hear those stayes, hat it was rqpnted in a sort iiiYolous. And the Barons of the Cinque Ports did affirm theur right of sitting at the Idn^s table the same day, at the right hand of our lord the king, and so they sate. It b found also in a oertaine foure square hooke at the Exchequer^ in the thirty-first yeare of the said King Edward, sonne of Henry."*— Z&ui. We believe the following pamphlet to be yery scarce, and think that an extract from it may not prove uninteresting. Extracts from *' A Discourse on Sea-ports, principally of the Port and Haven of Dover, by Sir Walter Rawleighy and addressed to Queen Eiizabethf with useful Remarks on that Subject {published) by command of his laie Majesty K. Charles the Second." ** Whereby it plainly appeareth, that as the excessive expence of the Low Countreys, bestowed on hayens, hath not impoyerished, hut the dean eontraryj greatly enricfaed them by incomparable wealth and treasure, with number of rich, fabr, and populous towns; so our sparing mind, or rather greedy getting, gaining and enridiing knd from your Mi^esty's havens and navigable channels, hath utterly destroyed and spoiled many good havens by nature left us, and thereby wrou^t very beggary, and misery, and desolation in these your frontier towns." ** And if we seardi the very cause of the fiourishing state of London, which ahnost alone in quantity, people and wealth, in this age or realm, is so increased, and contrary wise of the poverty or rather beggary and decay of Winchdsea, Rye, Romney, Hide, Dover, and many other poor towns, we shall find the decay of these havens and preservation of the Thames the only or chief occasion." ** Hereby sufficiently appeareth how incomparable jeweUs havens and sure harbours are, fnr gaining, maintaining, and encreasing people, wealth, and commodity, in any realm." ** And no lesser strength and security do they bring in time of war, as well by the multitude of mariners (a most serviceable people) and shipping which they breed, as also the inhabitation of the frontiers." " But have in this last age eonsented to see many of our useful ports run to decay, and at length to mine, and to become totally lost to the nation ; whidi a very little foresight and as little diarge might have prevented, while the evil was growing, which at a long run becomes incurable. Among which ports I instanced Sandwich, Dover, Rye, Winchelsea, and which were reckoned heretofore as so many bulwarks against our ambitious neighbour." HISTORICAL PARTIOULABS OF THE SERVICES OF THE CINQUE PORTS.— JeoAr^. ^ And it may be further noted, that since the nation hath increased the royal navy in the number of great and warlike ships, these being small (sufficient as appeareth, to be manned with twenty mm and a boy), this number of fifty-seven ships hath not been exacted, but somedmes two or three, or more, which notwidistanding to equip, hath been equivalent in the charge to the fitting out of the old total, considering their burden- CIKaUE POETS. 307 And moreoTer, how chaigeable soever this serrice hath been to the ports, they, from time to time, have faithfully performed it, as several records will testify for them. For not only, upon all occasions, have the navy of the Ports been ready to guard the narrow seas from pirates infesting the coasts (by which, as som»say, and firmly believe, from tradition of their ancestors, they first obtained their privileges), but employed in frequent transportations of the king^s forces, if not person and family, during the long difierences and wars between England and France; so as it seems to be the chief of the royal navy till the state provided a bigger and better, and that wherein the kings of old did much confide for assistance as our histories intimate. King John, in his retirement in the Isle of Wight*, was almost forsaken of all his kingdom, save the ships and mariners of the Cinque Ports, with which he secured himself till he recovered all again. In the banning of the reigne of King Henry the Third, anno 1217, the Ports armed forty tall ships, and put them to KBimder the command of Hubert de Buigo (then Warden of the Cinque Ports, and commander of Dover castle) who meeting with eighty sail of French ships coming to aid Lewis, the French king's eldest son, gave them a most courageous encounter, wherein he took some, sunk others, and discomfited the rest And at other times t this King Henry had great benefit by the shipping of the Ports. About 1S93, or 1294, in the reign of King Edward the First, an hundred sail of the Ports navy fought at sea with a great fleet of French ships, of whom (notwithstanding great odds) they slew, took, and sunk so many, that France was thereby for a long season after in a manner destitute both of seamen and shipping. Rot. Scotifle, 10 Edward III., Memb. 16. The navy of the Ports, U^ther with other vessels taken up for that service, under the command of GefiSrey de Say, admiral of the sea, from the mouth of the Thames to the southon and western Ports, defended the seas, and hindered the bring- ing of suoooTB from foreign parts to the king^s enemies in Scotland. Under ^ King Henry the Foiur^, anno li06, the navy of the Cinque Ports, conducted by Henry Paye, surprized one hundred and twenty French ships, all laden with no worse merchandize than salt, iron, and oil. In the fourteenth year of King Henry the Sixth, the Ports had summons to fit out their whole number of ships, to be ready at Winchelsea by the feast of St George^ which was anno 1436. June 25, anno 23 Henry VI., the town of Sandwich set out five ships to fetch Queen Margaret out of France. May 23, anno 27 Henry VI., the town of Sandwich, by com- mand from the king, sent out one ship for four months service. July 18, anno 27 Henry VI., the same town, by like command, set out another ship for four months service. January 21, ab inchoatione regni Hen. VI. 49, et recaptionis regis potestatis primo, the navy of the Ports were set out to * In the seventeenth year of his reign. f As the eighth, tenth, and eleventh years of his reign, wherein he writes to have the Ports set out double their number of ships this time, with promise it should be no president. — 18 FAr, paL 11, Hen, III,, Mem. 8. I Before this, in the tenth and eleventh years of King Richard the Second, the Ports navy both times were ordered to be ready at Sandwich, and after- wards the Uke in the ninth year of Henry the FUtlL—Jeake. 308 COA8T OF SUSSEX. fetch Queen Margaret and the prince out of France. Mardi 31^ anno 15 Edward IV.^ the king commanded the navy of the Porta to he ready in the Downs^ May 96, then next to come, for transportation of the king and his army, and the king and his army came to Sandwich. Anno 7 Henry VII., in May, the Ports navy transported the king^s army from Sandwich into France. Anno 8 Henry VI L, in Novemher, the Ports navy hrought hack the king's army from Calais. Anno 10 Henry VII., in July, the trained bands of Sandwich beat back the kin^s enemies hmding in the Downs. Aano & Henry VIII., in May, preparation for the king's army was made at Sandwich, and the Ports navy transported his army from thence and Dover into France. Anno Si Henry VIII., in August, at the king's command, the navy of the Ports was prepared, and ready, the tenth of October, at Sandwich and Dover, to transport his horses and army into France, and did transport them. Anno 35 Henry VIII., in April, the king commanded the Ports navy to be in readiness in the Downs, the twenty-sixth of May, to do their service, which they did. Anno 30 Eliza*- beth, 1588, in April, the Ports, at the queen's command, set out five serviceable ships, and a pinace for her Migesty's service, for two months;, but they served four months at their own costs. Anno 38 Elizabeth, 1595, in January, the Ports, at the queen's command, set out five serviceable ships, of one hundred and sixty tons a piece, for ftve months, at thdr own charges. Anno 2 Charles I., in July, 1626, at the Idng^s command, the Ports set out two serviceable ships for three months, whidi cost them 1825/. Ss, Od, One paper I have seen mentioned somewhat less." HASTINGS TO BATTLE, ASHBURNHAM, LEWES, AND BRIGHTON. BATTLB .... a8hbubnham . . oardneb's-stbert HOBflB-BRIDOE €HUBGH-Z«AUOHT0N BINOMEB . . • OLIFFB .... MILES. 6J 3 i 6 4 S MILES. ASHOOMBB T. O l^ FAliMER S 8TANMBR P. O. i BABRACKS S| BRIGHTON 1^ 41^ The usual route to Battle is through Ore, a small village, with a decent church, and one neat residence, belonging to a Mr. Shadwell ; the next place is Beauport Park, where the road from St. Leonardo's joins it, the latter of which we adopted. On passing the north gate, above the Subscription Garden, we enter the new road, and descending a hill, meet with a turn- pike-gate, built in the form of a Saxon round tower: just beyond this is a lane to Crowhurst, on the left. The church- yard at that place, we understand, contains a most picturesque yew, nearly twenty feet in circumference ; and about half a mile from the church is the ruin of a private oratory, whose exact history is uncertain. In the gable is a pretty window, which, from the shape of its arch and upper tracery, appears to be of the fourteenth century. Proceeding along the turn- pike road we reach that from Hastings at HoUington: im- mediately before reaching it, the scenery is pretty : the thick foliage, which completely conceals the small church, lies at some distance on the left, and^ more in front, is seen the hand- some domain of Sir C. M • Lamb : we turn to the left and pass this on our road to Battle ; the park appears spacious, and the entrance is neat : from hence to Battle there is no particular object requiring notice ; but the view of the town, abbey, and church, about half a mile before we arrive at it, is picturesque 310 COAST OF SUSSEX, and commanding. There is an extensive tannery at the en^ trance on the small brook, as its wholesome, but to some un- pleasant, odour will speedily indicate. Battle, still in a mer- cantile age connected with the arts of war, is well known, as containing one of the most extensive manufactories of gun- powder in England, at which accidents were formerly not unfrequent, but of late years none are on record* There was also in the last war an ext^isive depot of government stores. The church is on the right soon after entering the town; a little further on, the wide High-street makes an angle to the righ<^, and on the other side, facingit, is the grand old abbey gate-house. The town is indifferently built, containing, in 1831, 2999 inhabitants. This is ajranchise, in right of which the inhabitants are exempted from serving on juries; and a coroner, &c. is appointed by the Lord of the Manor (Sir G. Webster), who is still or was lately termed the Abbots as the incumbent is styled Dean of Battle. The present Dean is Dr. Birch, and we feel bound to record an honourable trait of character ; though he would not answer our letter of topo- graphical inquiry: — viz., that the House of Correction for the district having* no chaplain, he gratuitously performs divine service, and preaches a sermon to the prisoners there every Sunday. The market of the town was granted by Henry I. on Sundays, but was changed to Thursday in 1606. Here is a charity school for forty boys, and some other benefactions. The name of the village previous to the Norman Conquest was EpyUm^ changed to BaUel^ from the circumstance of its having been the scene of the important and sanguinary con- flict. In the following year the king founded the abbey (in pursuance of a vow he had made previous to the fight) on the place where the most decisive part of the engagement bad occurred, and so disposed it, that the high altar of the abbey church should be on the precise spot where the dead body of Harold was first discovered. It was intended for the reception of 140 monks; but 60 alone were subsequently ad- mitted, brought from the Benedictine Abbey of Marmontier in Normandy, dedicated to the same patron. Saint Martin; BATTLE. 311 oHe of the monks of the former had suggested the idea of the foundation to the king. The king^s motive for this foundation was, according to the feelings of the times, decidedly a good one. He intended it for the especial purpose of prayers being for ever offered for the souls of all who had fallen in the conquering engagement. ''Ecb. de Glow. MS. in BibL JSodleiana, foi. 98 a. " King William bethought him alsoe of that Folke that was forlorne^ And slayn also thoruz him In the bataile hi foroe. And ther as the bataile was. An Abbey he lete rere Of Seint Martin, for the soules That there slayn were And the monkes well ynoug Feffed without fayle^ lliat is called in Englonde Abbey of Bataile." William of Malmsburj. ** Sancti Martini de Bello [monasterinm] quod rex WiDielmus funda^t et provexit in loco ubi Angliam debebeUaverat; multa ibi et pretiosa tum vivuB tum mortuus ddegans. Altare ecdesiae est, in loco^ ubi Haroldi, pro patriae charitate ocdd, cadaver ezanime inventum est" Matthew of Westminster. «Fundata est igitur ibidem domus rdigioeorum, ubi caedes et strages crebrior fuit oodsorum, pro eorundem animabusy Deum imperpetuum de- piecatura, quam dux et alii devoti Deo nobiles, possessionibus ampliarunt, et religionis custodia munienint, quae propter bellum ibidem oonsummatum, nomine Belli usque hodie' intitulatur." ''Abbatia de Bello oonstruitui^ ibid.—** Rex Gulihelmus, exultans de victoricy dedit laudem Deo. Eodem anno idem rex, oonstruxit abbatiam, quam ^[ypeUavit pro beDo ibi oommisso, Bellum, in qua^ in peipetmim Peo gloria, et laus, et gratiamm actio pro Tictoria obtenta solyerentur, necnonet pro ibidem mortuis exequiae k Sanctis monachis ibi constitutisy cum sahitarilus hostiisy Deo redderentur ^ ipsamque ecdesiam possessionibus et libertatibus dotatam et ditatam commisit patronatni et tutelae regum qui post eum forent in Anglia regnaturi." Lelantfs Collectanea. '''Anno Mlxy^. Rex WiHielmus Conquestor Angliae abbathiam de Bello oonstruxit, et monachis instituit, ut pro ocdsis in bello ab ipsis in perpetuum hostiae sslutis Deo redderentur." 3i2 COASt OF SUSSEX. Monaiticon. ** The priyil^es of this monastery^ detailed in the largest charter^ entme- ously called ' Carta prima' in the Battle register^ are great It was not only to be exempt from episcopal jurisdiction, but was to enjoy its exemption in as ample a manner as the metropolitan churdi of Canterbury. It had the rights of free-warren in all its manors, treasure troTe, and even sanctuary. The circuit round the abbey also, called the Leuga, was freed from every land of tax and service. The manor of Wi*, with all its appendant royal- ties, in Kent; the manors of Alsistone in Sussex, Limensfdd in Surrey, Hov in Sussex, Craumareis in Oxfordshire, and Bristwoldinton in Berk- shire; with the churches of Radinges, Culinton, and St Olave, in Exeter, formed the chief endowment ** Two of the Conqueror's charters relating to the general liberties of Battle went each by the name of * Humana Mens,' probably because it was declared in them that the churdi of Battle should be 'libera et quieta in perpetuum abomni exactione et omnibus quaecunque mens humana oogitare potest' Another liberates the church, ' ab omni thelonio.' Hiere is one ' de Corredio Abbatis.' Three relate to the liberties of the ' Leuga ;' one to the market granted to the monastery; and one redting the gift of the meadow of Bodeham." William did not live to see his foundation completed. An abbot had been appointed in 1076, but the church was not consecrated till 1094. *' Then went the kmg to Hastings at Candlemas ; and whilst he there abode waiting the weather, he let hallow the minster at Battd/'— iSVuon Chron, And by a charter at the same time added several churches to their endowments, confirmed several liberties, and the right of treaS7ire trove. At the consecration were present the Bishops of Rochester (Gunduif), Winchester^ Chichester, Salisbury, Durham, Bath, and Coutances, with a great number of Barons. Various subsequent charters of high endowments and privileges were given by Henry I., Stephen, Henry II., John, Henry III., Edward II. (a market and fair at Havekerst), Edward III. (to fortify and embattle the monastery), and Henry IV. The abbot was mitred and regularly summoned to Parliament, before the dissolution* • « Together with his righ tof wreck in Denger marsh (a member thereof), as also that of any great or royal fish, called OoMtptevf , which shoifld be there driven on shore, except where it happened without certain limits, in which case, they were only to have two parts of the fish and the tongue, these being what ^be King usually had.** t Qy* Sturgeons? — Ed. DATTLE. $13 Disputes appear to have taken place at an early stage of its history as to its exempt jurisdiction from the bishoprick of Chichester. '^The Liber de Sita Ecdedae Belli^ 'MS. Cotton, Domit A. 11 Bays,' Gansberto itaque decto com ad earn benedioendum episcopus Cioestiensis Stigandua nuUatenus assentiret, nisi Oicestriam benedioendus adiret; Regem hac de causa providus abbas caute adivit, causam exposuit, quid agfendum foret inquisiyit. Quo oognito indignatus Rex episoopo inter« minatus praecepit quatinus Abbadem in eodesia S. Martini de Bdlo, omni remota calumnia, benediceret, eo etiam modo ut illic ipse vel sucnum aliquis eodem die ex oonsuetudine, nee hospitaretnr, nee sibum, quidem sumeret, in testimonium videlicet libertatis, cgusdam ecdesiae. Factum est igitur, et abbate Gausberto ante altare sancti Martini de Bello benedicto, atque in locum suum ab episcopo collocato, memoriale ad posteroe transiit, Ecdesiam de Bello ab omni exactione et sulgectione Episooporum Cioestriae liberam esse, sicut, dominicam Regis capdlam ; nee in ea vel in omni posaessione qua quiaquam aliquid calumniari possit, nisi gratis et caiitative impen« datur."— MSS. foL 83 b. Among the privileges of the Abbots was that of pardoning any sentenced criminal they might accidentally pass by. The sword and robe of William, as originally offered, were kept in the church. In the archives was also kept the celebrated *' Roll of Battle Abbey,'^ viz., of all the Norman gentry who came over with the Conqueror. It is supposed however that several names were afterwards surreptitiously inserted, in order to gratify the pride of families who wished to be thought of Norman descent. In the year 1S31 the then Abbot of Battle, Hamo, of OfBngton, it is supposed, signalized himself in a very courage^ ous manner, in repulsing a body of French who had landed and attacked Rye and Winchelsea; to which latter place the abbot repaired with what force he could muster, and, fortifying it, kept the enemy at bay till such time as the country gentle- men assembled in great numbers to his aid, and enabled him to repulse the invaders. We have a luminous account of this transaction in Thomas of fTalsinffham, ** Poaty occupationem insule supradlctie (de Wight), Grallici galeae ite« mm repetentes circuerunt oram maritimam usquedum pervenerunt ad ob- jectum vills de Windielaea. Et oognoscentes abbatem de Bello ad illam convolasse causa custodis, missis nuntiis petunt ut illam redimat Abbas S14 COAST OF SUSSEX. Tcro negst le anptnmiDy quod non peniideraty quin podiu demmdaty ut ab infestatione vills deastant nib intominatione damni quod da poterit provenire. GaUid gas lesponao exaspeFad petunt (si bdlum TeUt) ut ainguli ex utraque parte mittantur, yd certe plurea, qui spectante utroque exerdtu congrediantur ; aed nee hanc petitaonem abbaa admidt, dioens ae religioflum Terum esae^ et non licere dbi higua petitiones admittere, nee illuc bdli cauaay aed tuitionia et conaeryationis pads patiiie advenisae. Hia audiia, Grallid teatimantea animnm abbatia auorumque defedaae; mox ad* motia inatramentia bdlida, adlioet miasilibuB, quorum copi& fruebantur^ Tillain acriter infeatabant^ pugnantea a nona uaque ad Teapenun. Sed ab- batia et eorum qui cum ipeo erant laudabili probitate minime profecerunt. Interim dum pugnant ibidem mittunt partem navium ad villam de Haadnga^ que reperientea villam pene yacuam^ combuaaenmt eam. Gallid vero yi- dentea ae nil prsevalere apud Wynehdaee, reoeaaerunt." MISCELLANEOUS. XXTBACT8 PROM THE OBBONIGLK. MSS. Cotton. Vitell, p. yii. fol. U^^( translated.) 4 vergatea make one wist 8 vergates make one bid& 16 feet make one perdi. 40 perdies make one guarantein, I'i quaranteins make one Englidi leuga. It ia divided (tbe leuga) by wists, whidi, in otber plaoea, are called «er- gtUes, Tbe most accustomed price of one wiat ia Ss.''-^Burreli MSS. ** Tbia abbey (Battle) flouxiahed greatly, not only by tbe royal endow- mentaj but by tbose of several of tbe nobility ; and a town of about a hundred and fifteen houaea waa in a short time formed under its patron- age, for the Conqueror had bestowed on it aH the land three miles round his foundation/'— P^nnait^. ** History doth mention that there was, about that time (Nor. In.), great store of Vines at Sanilac (near to Battd, in Sussex), whidi giveth me to think that wyne hath bene made longe sence within the realme, although in our memorie it be accounted a great ddntye to heare of."— Lambard. William of Newbury, quoted by Camden, says, that, *^ at a place called Sanguelac, in Battle, so called from a very great slaughter of tbe English fighting for their country, if it hap- pens to be wetted with a smart shower sweats out real blood, and as it were fresh : as if tbe very evidence thereof did plainly declare, that the voice of so much Christian blood doth still cry from the earth to tbe Lord.^' This was a harm- less error ; but of course it was only the overflowing of a mi- neral stream. BATTLE. SI 5 *' The foUowIng is the ttttement of the abbey property^ as recorded in the Domesday Scmrey. The manor of Wi> in Kent, was rated at seven solins. The soc and sac of twenty-two hundreds appertained to it In Sossez the abbey held Alistone^ which paid gild for forty-four hides and a half; four l^des in the hundred of Totenore; six hides and a half, in« eluding Bochdbam, in the abbat's own ncpe; and portions of land of a much smaller kind^ which were let to the Earl of Ow, the Earl of More- taine, and other tenants in Bece, Wasingate, Nirefeld, Penehest, Hoy, PUesham, Cedesfeld, Bolington, Croherst, Witinges and Holintun. In Surrey, twenty-five hides at Liraenesfdd. In Berkshire, the manor of Bristddestone, which had been Harold's, in whose time it had been rated at ten hides ; five ** hagae" or houses in WaUingford; and the drarch of Redinges (now Reading), with an appendage oi d^t hides of hind. In Devonshire, the church of Colitone, with a single hide; and the church of St Olave in Exeter, with seven hides of land appended. In Oxfordshire, Aye hides at Cravmareis ; those also had belonged to Harold. In Essex, one hide at Atahov, and one at Hersa." — BurreU MSS, The abbey of Brecknock, in South Wales, was a cell to that of Battle. At the dissolution, the last abbot, John Hammond, who had been so for many years, recdved a pension of one hundred marks annually by patent, with a proviso that he should vacate his pension if preferred by the King. This circumstance, as implying conscientiousness on his part, and continued esteem on the part of others, is usually considered to dissipate some charges brought against him and his monks, terrible if true, but capable of being the coinage of base and vindictive malignity, or of interest ; in this case most probably the latter. In Pope Nicholas' Taxation the following was the valuation of the abbey possessions within the archdeaconry of Lewes only : — ikRCHIDIACONATUS LEWENSIS^ ABBAS DE BELLO. BellumctfpV 48 7 2^ Berhom 17 9 Alsiston 102 12 10^ Appelderh'm 2<) 17 10». Apud Berherst 2 S'ma . . 200 7 316 COAST OF SUSSEX. APPAT, D^UI DE BELLO. EccHa de Beilo 5 6 8 Vicar^ ejusdem 18 6 8 And the Summa Clara, exclusive of out-payments at the ge- neral dissolution, was 8802. 14^. 7d. NONAL INQUISITION Ot BATTLB. Temp, Edw. III. *' BBLLUM. '^ Haec indenturs testat* q'd inquis' capt' ap' Lewes die lune px' med' quadi'gie ooi^ d'no Henr* Hosee et lociis suis collector' et asBeoBor' none gubar« vdler, et agn' d'no r^ in com' Susmx' conoeasor'y anno rpgni regia Edwardi t'cg post oonq' quaitoded'o sn' vero vabr' none p'doe jux' tenor' d'ni reg' oo'imas' d'ni r^ p'fato Henr' et Boqjs auis directe p' sacr'm Thome de Healyn^ Joh'is de Loxbetfa Joh'is de Westbech et Thorn' Avere podi' ecd'ie de Bdlo Jur' et inqoiaitor^ qui die' p' sacrum sau' q'd nona p's garb' poch' ecc'ie p'dc'e valt hoc anno sex marc quatuor sol' et tres dm' et agn' et km' val' ibid'm hoc anno y* v' et no' plus q' nona g'rba abb'is de BeOo in ead' 'podi' val' hoc anno qnatnor m'rc' et xx'. £t nona garba sacriste de Bdlo in d'ca 'poch' Tal' hoc anno ^* yUy. £t nona garb' demos' de Bdlo in ead' poch' Tal't hoc a** xx* yj Ian" et agn' d'd dem' in ead' poch' val' hoc a^* . . . £t non' garb' Ticar ibid' de gleba ecc'ie val' h9 a* iy y*, £t in feno val' xiij* iiy^* et in pomor' et yadieria ibid' xiy^ iiij et Job's Reyas h't m catf ad val' lx sol' inde zv"> ii^ ■ et Will'us de Hdderh'm h'et in cat' ad val' xV inde xv» x^^ et Will'us Thomdon h'et in cat' ad vaT xxij* iude xv"" xviij**. S'm todus xt*^* x^" i^* x' inde XT"* XT* iii^ In quor test'ta aigill' d'cus Henr' et soc' sni utunt' in hac p'te q'm sigUl' d'cor Thorn Joh'is et Thom' jur' sunt appensa alt'nat'* '^Printed Records \ At the entrance of the Abbey is the noble gatehouse Csee Vignette)^ a spadous oblong erection, with a tower of con- siderable size flanked by bold octagonal turrets near the west end, battlemented and turreted throughout, with some good windows and doorways, and tracery of arches and niches ; the * This, which is printed verhatm, will show the difficulty of interpretiiig such intricatdy contracted documents. We fear we have made a great mistake at the commencement of our tianslation of the Brighton roU^ which wiU doubtless be soon discovered. — Ed^ \ BATTLS. 817 whole indicating a late period of the decorated style, probably about the year 1400. The roof at the entrance is elegantly groined, with clustered columns in the centre. The long building on the right side, adjoining the tower, was, for a long ^ period, used as a town-hall and court-house, but from shameful neglect, on the part of the inhabitants, the interior fell into ruin. ** Thursday se'nnight^ part of the roof of Battle Abbey^ Sussex^ which> by permiflsioDy has. been used as a town-hall^ was, by the yiolenoe of the wind and rain, drove in, totally destroyed that part of the noUe boildiiig, i and put the iiJiabitants of the town in the greatest oonstemation ; some I thinking it a dreadful dap of thunder^ others that It was an earthquake* , —1794. The entire circuit of the various buildings, offices, and domestic or agricultural accompaniments of the Abbey, is said to have been upwards of a mile; the greater part is traceable at the present day. On the left of the entrance is the present dwelling-house of Sir Godfrey Webster, formed out of the cloisters, upper chambers, and some other parts of the original buildings. In front is a terrace over a range of vaults, thus described by Pennant ; and at its S. E. extremity two ancient turrets, said to have been watch-towers. The view from hence over the park and towards the sea, is very pleasing. *' In another part are eight other vaults, parallel to one another^ each of twenty-nine feet by fourteen, and a narrow window at the end. All these had been the magazines for provisions and fuel in the flourishing days of this great foundation." Farther to the west, and behind the mansion, are the refec- tory and kitchen, with some other original remains. The former was a magnificent edifice, 150 feet in length, apparently- of the fourteenth century ; beneath it is a fine crypt, of three low aisles. The kitchen, sufficiently capacious to include five fire-places, is older, probably soon after the year 1200 ; it has a groined roof, with well-proportioned and elegant pillars and arches, and has a stately appearance. Many other relics of grcfat interest are to be seen in this part of the grounds. The hall, at present in use^ is about 60 feet long and 80 wide, and is a noble apartment, richly wainscotted with oak ; over which, at the liorth end, is a music gallery, decorated with 318 COAST OF SOSSEX. a variety of family portraits, and others of kings, warriors, and statesmen ; stained glass windows, and a fine, though small, collection of armour, very tastefully arranged. It consists of shields, lances, long and short maces, battle-axes, two-- handled swords, &c. two bright suits of steel armour, and a very brilliant suit of brass, with helmets and black plumes. On comparing the latter from recollection with one exhibited at the Lord Mayor's show, which was probably one of the best in the Tower, it appeared to hold a superior rank. At the upper end is a Daut, separated by brass railing, with crimson cordage. Above is the great historical painting of the battle of Hastings, 80 feet by 17, executed by a distinguished modem artist, whose name we have unfortunately forgotten, at a price of, OS we believe, about ,£1500. It is, upcm the whole, the finest and boldest painting of the kind that we ever had the good fortune to see. Great attention has been bestowed on the costume, which ia derived from Dr. Meyrick^s researches^ and from the oi%inaI and incontrovertible authority of the Bayeux ttspeBtry. The Normans are dressed in brown russelled chain armour, the Saxons in yellow surooats, with plaid scarfs ; the hair of the former is close shaveti, and that of the latter long. The principal group is applied to the exact period of time when the body of Harold was discovered among the slain, and brought to the king, which put the crowning seal to his victory Two Norman soldiers are bringing forward the body; one has a noble countenance, indicating magnanimous pity for the fallen ; the other is holding up the fatal arrow with much eagerness of gesture. The countenance of Haxx>ld has deci* dedly a Saxon stamp, and his form is of great strength. William is mounted on a cream-coloured horse, and in the intense and surprised eagerness with which he beholds the objects before him, drops his sword on the ground. By his side, bis very unpriestly brother, Odo of Baieux, looks at him with fierce delight and curious attention, to see how he receives his victory. Several groups of fighting and dying warriors are exhibited, and scenery in the back ground. A monk is pressing forward with the banner blessed by the Pope, to remind the king of his imagined obligations to the charmed ASHBURNHAM. 319 boon. Nothing could, of course, have been in better taste, than the introduction of this picture here; it forms one of those ob- jects which may afford the visitor some hours of pleasure and interest at the ruins of Battle. The other parts of the house are not shown. We obtained a glimpse of the drawing-room, which has a groined roof, with a line of cloister arches running up its centre. It is most richly decorated with plate and stained glass, and gilt fret-work, and is scarcely to be exceeded in effect at Arundel Castle, or even at the Pavilion. The church, though much over praised, is certainly a highly respectable edifice, and the whole of the exterior^ as well as interior, is in perfect preservation, a circumstance by no means usual in Sussex. It consists of a west tower, three aisles, and two chancels, and was probably built about the end of the twelfth century, having pointed arches with circular columns, also a font of mixed Norman and early English character. It has been variously altered at different times, the tower pro- bably rebuilt in the fifteenth century, and most of the windows inserted in the fourteenth ; those on the north side are hand- some, and have slight remains of painted glass : the tower, though not lofty, is of good proportions. The north chancel is divided into two school-rooms. The interior is plain and decent, wellpewed throughout with old oak, and has a neat organ, and eight bells in the tower. On the floor are several brasses with long Latin inscriptions, which we had not time to examine ; and on the north side of the chancel, under an arch, is a handsome marble altar tomb, with the remains of gilding, bearing the effigies of Sir Anthony Browne and his lady. This knight, who purchased Battle Abbey from one Gillim, (probably, as was too often the case in the capricious Henry^s grants, a worthless sycophant,) as a domain for his family, had been standard bearer to Henry VIII* From Battle to Ashbumham occurs nothing worthy of men- tion. The latter, like the abbey, is shown only on Mondays ; but we should warn the reader, that in this instance the house is not to be seen by the visitor, or he might, like ourselves, feel disappointment. A little pleasing park scenery, a mode- 890 COAST OF susssx. rate garden^ and the relics of the unfortunate Charles I., are all the attractions here afforded for a journey. The family of Ashbumham, however, have been sufficiently noble and excellent to excite interest for the spot in which they lived and died. Fuller observes that they were of *^ stu- pendous^ antiquity, having been of rank and note in England some time before the Conquest ; and one of them displayed much courage and patriotism at that period, as sheriff of Sussex. Ashburnham Park we understood to be about eight miles in circumference. The scenery at the entrance is bold, wild« and interesting, reminding us of some celebrated ones in other parts of the kingdom. On coming nearer to the house, the sides of the road take the appearance of a shrubbery, and have a pleasing effect; it here crosses a long piece of water, but of which little is seen, and winds to the left. The first object shown to strangers is the church. This is simply a neat vil- lage one, with a tower, nave, and three chancels, the latter constituting the only peculiar feature. The interior is neat, but has no particular ornament. A very small altar-piece, with Moses and Aaron, removed to the south wall, bears date 1676, and some rich old crimson damask, on the pulpit and communion-table, is probably about the same age. The family vault, in some part of the church, may be seen, and we believe even entered, by strangers, a practice of which we cannot speak with any degree of pleasure. The south chancel has a family gallery, and the north contains the monuments, and the memo*, rials of the execution of Charles I., which were bequeathed by Bertram Ashburnham, in 17:27, to the parish clerks for ever. These are kept in a glass case lined with red velvet; and have nothing in the least repulsive in their appearance. The extremely fine linen excites astonishment from being as per- fectly fresh as if new. The shirt of the unhappy monarch has fine ruffles at the wrists, which have faint spots of blood : the drawers are knU of white silk, there is also the Holland sheet thrown over his remains after death, and his watch ; this has an enamelled case and flowers worked on the dial, and is of the old turnip shape. The principal monuments are two only, ASHBURNHAM. 3S1 one, that of Sir William Ashburnham and his lady, daughter of Lord Butler, of Herts : she in a recumbent position, he in a loose gown and periwig, kneeling and extending his arms to* wards her. The effect is so perfectly oiUte that a smile at £rst is irresistible ; but when we read the inscription, which displays so much solid goodness of heart and unaffected feel- ing, all inclination to smile ceases, and we look at the strange figure with reverence. Another monument is for his elder brother, a fine white marble effigy with a helmet, between his .two wives*. The church tower contains four bells only, and these, we understood, are seldom put in motion. The noble earl is not of our mind, or he would have a sweet and clear peal of bells so near his mansion, to send forth their lively and soothing << upland*" notes over the lands of his tenants and neighbours. The front of the mansion was then and is now a provoking riddle to us ; for we actually cannot make out whether it is intended for the Italian or Norman style. The bold and handsome projecting porch, with four arches of multiplied mouldings, ought to be the latter ; and we are only puzzled by some writers, who ought to be acquainted with the subject on which they are speaking, calling it Italian. But be it what • « The church is behind the house, and in it are monuments for Sir William Ashburnham, and his lady, daughter of Lord Butler, of Herts ; first nuuried to the Earl of Marlborough, who left her a widow, young, rich, and beautiful* The inscription written by Sir William says she was a great lover of, and blessing to, his family. He acknowledges it with the greatest gratitude, and recommends her memory to be cherished by them. Both their figures are whole lengths, in white marble ; hers recumbent, leaning on her hand; his, kneeling in a loose gown, and great flowing wig. There is another monument, for his elder brother and his two wives, whose figures, in white marble, are recumbent ; he placed between them in armour, one of them in a winding-sheet, the other in a Baroness* robe. The inscription mentions, that his father, through good-nature to his friends, was obliged to sell this place (in his famOy long before the Conquest) and all the estates he had, not leaving to his wife and six children the least substance; which is not mentioned to the disadvantage of his memory, but, to give God praise, who so suddenly provided for his wife and children, that within two years after his death, there was not one but was in a condition to help others, rather than want support. His first wife made the first step toward the recovery of some pert of his inheritance, selling her whole estate to lay out the money in this place. He built this church. This Mr. Ashburnham contrived the escape of Charles I. from Hampton Court." — Pennant, 322 COAST OF SUSSEX. it may, it is neat and handsome, and the vkw from the terrace in front, over the riyer-Uke water, which is said in its whole length to cover fifty acres, and the hangbg shrubberies, is very pleasing. There is little more than this to be seen* A walled garden, which, when we saw it in autumn, had a splendid col- lection of dahlias ; a small conservatory, with some fine orange trees; and a dairy. The latter is hardly worth exhibiting, though remarkably neat, as well as its presiding nymph. The walls are lined with Dutch tiles and green trellis, and have some curious old china on shelves, but with no painted glass. In the centre is a pretty idea, a small fountain flowing from a glass vase^ for the purposes of the place ; but the three figures which support it should have been of alabaster, or white marble, instead of being common plaster casts. From Ashbumham to Lewes, eighteen miles distance, is a lonely road, very barren in objects of interest, with the sole grand feature of the distant range of heights near Eastbourne, which is seen at intervals. This road is not distinguished by robberies, but seems towards the approach of night, especially, adapted to the purpose, and may recal to the mind of the imaginative traveller some of the old tales of Fielding or SmoUet, in the very different state of England during the first half of the eighteenth century. We pass through GardnerV street, a dull village, and soon after leave to the left the tower of Hailsham* with its lofty and elegant pinnacles. Horse- bridge, the next point, is a hamlet to the parish of Hellingly, whose mean church, with a pointed steeple, is seen on the right. Five miles from hence at Church Laughton, approaching nearer to Lewes, the road begins to get more cheerful, and is well *«* HailBhaoi is a small town of little or no historical interest, except that it contained the Priory of Michelham, some remains of which are still in ex- istence : the parish is within the Duchy of Lancaster. Barracks were built here to accommodate a regiment of infantry during the late war. The church is tolerably large and handsome, of the date of the fifteenth cen- tury. Hailsham has a cattle market every fortnight on Wednesday, from which the inhabitants of Brighton are principally supplied, as well as those of many other pkKjea; and, according to the old proverb, <«an ill wind," &c. &c, since the catde-market at Brighton, has not succeeded, the weather-cock of prosperity will be turned back to the former. In 1831, the number of inhabitants was 1446. RIKOMER. 823 wooded. The church at Laughton, which is at some distance on the left of the road) appeafs to have a tower of some pre- t^uuons, compared with others in the neighbourhood. A full account of this parish is given in the History of Lewes. Its diorch, though the burial-place of the Pdham family, of eaiby d«keB, and bishops, oootaias no monuments. Laughton- place, built or repaired in 1534, still remams as a farm-house, and has a lofty brick tower : the park we have before alluded to as the scene of the unhappy folly which led to the death of Lord Dacre. The Pelhams afterwards removed to Haliand, another residence^ lying partly in this parish, and subsequently in the year 17S4 to Stanmer. Mr. Horsefield has given a vignette, and repeated it on the title page, of two old oak trees on the estate of the Hon. H. Watson in this parish. To us, however, they present little that is striking, either in their size or the convolutions of their branches at the top. We have seen scores of old oaks that are of grander size and more intricate raniification*. To specify one instance of size out of a multitude, we would refer to the oak near Shrewsbury, which Owen Glendowr climbed as an observatory to view the motions of his enemies; the girth of which is twenty^seven feet, at the height of eight feet from the ground. Ringmer, four miles from Laughton and two and a half ftom Lewes, is a handsome and cheerful village. Some have con- jectured its ancient name to have been Regnirmere^ i. e. ^< pool^ from the ancient name of the inhabitants of the province ; but this seems far-fetched and doubtful. Broyle, in this parish, was one of the seats of the Archbishops of Canterbury, and had a park of £000 acres in extent containing deer, which is now applied to the purposes of husbandry. Ordnance bar- racks were erected here during the late war, now disused, and part f^lied to the purpose of a lunatic asylum. For a full account, however, of the many interesting particulars re- • On the subject of celebrmted forest trees, the curious reader may consult Strutt's « SylTS Britannica,'* and << Ddids Sylyanun.'* y2 324 COAST OF SUSUEX. lating to these two parishes, we must (as, we are not wholesale plunderers) refer the reader to Mr. Horsefield's History of Lewes. The population in 1831 was, Laughtofi^ 804; Ring^ mer, 1271. Ringmer church, on the right of the traveUer, is a rather 'Capadous old edifice, of three aisles and two small chapels to the chancel, but disfigured by a modem wooden steeple ia lieu of an ancient one which fell in^ ruin. The interior con- tains many curious monuments, the inscriptions on which Mr. Horsefield honestly confesses having copied from the <* Family Topographer ;^ and we in turn will trespass on him for the following selected one on William Springett, Esq., who died May 7, 1620, aged 66: — ^rtunate men to Lord SheffieLfi's seat, about twenty miles from thences, where they were, as others have been, very hospitably received and entertained. We hear his lordship has recommended than to the committee in London. They came from Paris about ten days ago, and we learn the history of some of them is uncommonly affecting. Two had been confined in the same place with the bishops and clergy who were massacred; and they did not effect their escape until they had been eye-witnesses to the cool and de- * We never meet with this name without being reminded of the ballad of « Pretty Bes&ee,** in Dr. Percy's collection, which is founded on it 828 COAST OF SUSSEX. liberate mnrder of the venersUe Ardibuho(> of Aries and near ISO buhops and dergy.** ^*Sep. 84.— There was ameeting at the Star in this town last Thursday, for the purpose of concerting the best means of uniting the exertions of this country in fsYOur of those who by unexampled barbarity are driven on our coast Gentlemen attended from dififarent parts of the country to give information of what had been done. The meeting entered into seyeral resolutions, and appointed a committee to correspond with similar com- mittees at London, and to pursue such measures as might best procure for the oppressed refugees, an hospitable reception, and a safe and unmolested conveyance to London or elsewhere. It was observed by Lord Sheffield, from the chsir, that the arrival of these unfortunate persons was not a matter of choice. That we could not shut the door against the ofi^nding misery. That if we rejected or refused relief to men in their distressed situation, it would be an everlasting reproach on the national character, which had been famed for generosity and humanity. That the notion of fheir causing a scarcity could not seriously be bdieved by any man of reflection. That if ten times the number should arrive, it would be im- perceptible in the consumption of provisions within this island. That the rise of meat had taken place before they had arrived in any number, and that the increased price of com happens, of course, in consequence of the alarm of a bad harvest. It was further observed, that on the return of the three or four regiments from our foreign garrisons, or even of twenty or thirty regiments on the conclusion of a war, that no man ever pretended to be alarmed on account of a scarcity of provisions. It does not appear that more than eleven or twelve hundred have landed in Sussex, and that almost sll of them go to London. To the honour of the country it should be mentioned, that they have been every where treated in their passage through it with all the attention and kindness which drcumstsnces would admit" **Sept. 10, 1792.— On Wednesday and Thursday last no less than one hundred and seventy French emigrants, mostly priests, were landed from the packets, and an open boat, at Brighton. More are daily arriving, and many of them are observed to labour under very distressed circumstances. *'On Friday and Saturday last near three hundred unfortunate French- men of the above description were put on shore at East- Bourne, many of whom were very hospitably received by Lord George Cavendish, Lord Bayham, A. Piggott, Esq., and many other of the nobility and gentry of that place. They afterwards took difierent routes fbr the metropolis. Many from the above place, and Brighton, came to this town ; and such as could not get places on the stage-coach hired carts for their conveyance. Five of them, seemingly of a superior order, who brought a letter of recommenda- tion to a gentleman of this town, have fixed their abode here. ** We have just heard, that yesterday morning near one thousand more of the above unfortunate people landed at East-Bourne. *' Last night a post-chaise and waggon, heavily laden with them, arrived at the Star Inn in this town. LBWES. 929 ** hut week the groiind for the erecdoa of bemda near Lewes was oqd» tracted for. The quantity is four acres, lying on the south side of Hare* dean spring, as good a situation as could be chosen for the purpose. They are to be completed, we understand, in the course of six weeks, and made sufficient for the accommodation of 1,000 men." *' 17 94.— Lewes fair, last week, was the best stocked of any known on the South Downs for many years past: it is supposed that there were not less than 48,000 ewes, lambs, and wethers in the several pens. The prices were higher than looked for even by the stock-masters, owing to the great increase of late grass, and the success of the Kentish farmers in their hop plantations, who were thus enabled to buy freely and hu^dy. The Mmans, both of Glynd and l^oreham, as usual, bore away the bdl beyond all oom« parison. The best prices obtained were, " Sheerling Wethers, Draft £weB, Wether Lambs, Ewe ditto, ** 1803. — The erection of new barracks at Spitat-hill, near Lewes, com- menoed to-day, where, for which purpose, thirty acres of ground have been recently purchased by Government." £. s. d. . 25 per score. . 22 ditto. . 17 ditto. . 14 10 ditto." DESCRIPTION. CASTLE. This building is chiefly remarkable for having had tvfo Keeps, raised on mounds within the enclosure of its walls; one at the western extremity remains in a tolerably perfect state, and has a very commanding appearance, impending over the Street of the town, and picturesquely covered with ivy. The ruins of this castle are however far from interesting, very little of the primary features of architecture are discernible, and though it has been liberally repaired, this has been done in a very modernized and mediocre style. A large square tower at the entrance, probably of the 14th or 15th centuries, battle- mented and machicollated, is the most ornamental part. The view however from hence is very pleasing, and will repay the ascent. PRIORY. The remains of this building, which was situated on a low spot near the river at Southover, are inconsiderable. The principal are a large and smaller arch at the eastern end of the churchyard, which are neat specimens of the 13th century. 890 COA8T OF SUSSEX. A mound near the fmoey has been lately coDJectured to have been a Calvary, a place for exhibiting annually a representa- tion of the crudiixion of our Saviour. The walk from the high street by a steep descent, and a lane winding through trees and ruins, has a romantic air, and is pleasant in summer. TOWN HALL AND COUNTY 8E8SIONS.HOU8E. This edifice, which was erected in 1812 at an expense of little more than ^10,000, has its front in the High-street, to which it is unquestionably a greater ornament than the huge Town Hall is to any part of Brighton. Its dimensions are 80 feet by 76. The front of stone, having pillars in the centre of the basements and rustic work in the wings, is remarkably neat, and even handsome, and has three of the boldest and most graceful allegorical groups that we have ever witnessed. The interior, in addition to convenient courts, has a very handsome ball-room, 60 feet long, 80 broad, and 27 high, decorated with paintings and statues. CHURCHES. ST. THOMAS ▲ BEOKBTt's, CUFFB, has three small aisles and a chancel, and a decent square tower. Its south side, which is open to the street, has been lately improved, and rendered neat ; the north side, as Brighton church was lately, is disfigured by the vile shuUerSy which are surely to be seen no-where else but in Sussex. Allowing the possibility of their absence causing an expendi- ture of 409. per annum for broken panes, that is scarcely an object to be put in competition with perpetual disfigurement. The interior of this church is neat, has galleries of wainscot over the greater part of the aisles, and a good organ, painted white and gold, with two tall angels of gilt brass on its summit, brought from the seat of the < magnificent ' Duke of Chandos at Canons. The altar, of the Doric order, with white and gold fluted columns, is handsome, and the east end, which has no window, is further decorated. Above the north aisle is an excellent painting of the Ascension, given by B. Vander Gutcht, Esq. in 1779 ; and the pulpit, &c. has been recently tHWES. S31 refitted with crimson velvet and gold fringe. The tower con- tains four bells and a clock. This parish, town, or suburb, contained in 1831 , 1408 inhabi- tants. The church is considered as the head of the Peculiars of the Archbishop of Canterbury in Sussex, and was visited by him as such in I83S. We were truly glad to see that this mild and unobtrusive^ and very benevolent and charitable man was here treated with cordiality and respect. *^* ST. SCfBXt's, UNDJER THE OASTLK^ is a small and mean edifice, consisting of the nave only of a very ancient one, which was ruinated and disused in the time of Camden, but has been since repaired. Its architecture has been considered to indicate a Saxon sera, and it has some masonry of the herring-bone style, which is either included from some Roman original, or an imitation of it. Its principal curiosity is an antique gravestone, which has been assigned to a son of Harold, and has the following inscription, partly com- plete and conjecturally restored : " Cknditur hie mileB^ Danaaram r^a proles, Mangnus nomen ei, Mangnie nota progeniei : DeponeDB Mangnum se moribua induit agnum Prepete pro ▼it&> fit parvulus anachorita." For further particulars of this monument, the reader may consult the history of Lewes* The intervention of an < n* has been apparently considered as no bar to the punning turns which the monks were so ready to avail themselves of on every occasion. The interior contains a fine painting, in the style of Rem- brandt, the Presentation of young Children to our Saviour. The parish contained in 18S1, 2421 inhabitants. •^* AIX SAINTS. The body of this church was decently rebuilt with brick in the year 1807: the dimensions are 80 feet by 40, divided into two aisles, and it will contain 650 persons. The expense did not much exceed .fSOOO. The old tower at the west end rises very slightly above the roof. The interior has a good painting of St. John the Baptist in prison, brought from Italy and pre- 3S2 COAST OF SUSSEX. sented by the late Earl of Chichester, and a powetf ul organ*. Population in 1831, 2112. Called St. Annes, the remaining church of three parishes, is a very ancient structure, in good preserration. It has a long nave, a south aisle, which is not indicated by its external appearance 11 feet 3 inches wide, and a chancel. The tower at the west end has an obtuse shingled spire. The architecture is mixed Norman and early Gothic ; of the three arches of the nave, two are pointed and one round ; each of the capitals of the circular columns rests on four neat corbels, which has a pleasing and not very usual effect ; the arch of the chancel is circular, and at its east end are three lancet windows. The church contains a very el^ant monument of white marble, and a neat organ. The font is Norman, with handsome reticulated work. J£100 was given for the repairing, &c., of this church by Her- bert Springett, Esq., in 1620. Population in 1831, 746. ST. jaOHABL'Sy IS THK MAaKET, consists of three aisles, and was partly rebuilt in 1755 at an expense of £1366 : its front, of squared flint, with stone win- dow and door frames, is remarkably neat ; at the west end is a low round tower and slender spire, a vestry, and projecting clock. The interior is very neat, but has no organ ; the east window is ornamented with plain stained glass, neatly disposed, with a large red cross in the centre, ^ven by the present Rector, Dr. Proctor. In the north aisle is the monument of Sir Nicholas Pelham, 1559) which has two short Corinthian or composite columns, and many kneeling figures. <' His valour 's pzoofe, his maiilie vertaeB prayse. Cannot be manhalled in this narrow roome ; His braue exploit in great King Henry's dayes Among the worthye hath a worthier tombe : What time the French sought to haye sack't SesrFoord This Pelham did repel 'em back aboord." ^^Pelhaxa^ and ^^repeVexxi^ was, we imagine, intended a& wit by the " word torturers'^ of a punning age. Population in 1831, 1074. LEWES. S8S wr. JOHN TBB RAmn'n, bovthovsii, has a nave, south aisle, and chancel, and a respectable brick tower, rebuilt in the early part of the last century, at the ex- pense of 4812. ISs. 4(i, and contmning, by gradual additions, eight bells : three small pieces of carving, brought from the Priory, are inlaid in as many of its sides. The south aisle was added after the Reformation. This church has two old indifferent paintings, and a neat organ, lately presented by a lady in the parish : but its greatest attraction is the tomb of Gundred% daughter of William the Conqueror, and wife to the first Eai'l de Warren, which had been removed, at the dissolution, from the chapter-house of the priory to Isfield, and was restored to this neighbouring situation of its original one by William BurreB, Esq. in 1775. It is of black marble, sculptured with foliage, in a fine early style, and bearing around its edge the following inscription, with dight conjectural supplements, in characters which have been verified as Norman, and of the eleventh or early part of the twelfth century : — ** amiPB OUNDBSDA DUCUMy DBCUB ETZ, NOBILE OBRM EN, INTULIT E0CLB8II8 ANOLO&UM BAI^AMA MORUM, * MABTBA FUIT MISBIUBy FVIT WX PIBTATB MARIA ; PARS OBirr MARTBR, 8UP1BRE8T PARS MAGNA MARIB, O PZB, PANORATI TB8TI8 PIBTATI8 ET EQUI, TB FBGIT HEREDEMy TU OLBMENS 8U8CIPB MATREM. 8EZTA KAIiENDARVM JUNU LI7Z OBYIA OARNIS IFREOIT ALABABimUM." The author of the History of Lewes has given a neat poeti- cal version ; but we prefer offering a prose one, in which the simple tenor of the original will not be in the least rendered subservient to rhyme and metre. ^* Gundred, of Ducal race, the ornament of her age, a noble bud,-Brought into the churches of England tlie balsam of morals-She was a Martha to the wretched ; she was, for piety, a Mary : The part of Martha has died, the mighty * The rhyming of the penultimate with the middle syllable of (he verae wat a very favourite ornament with the monks, and others, in the middle ages. Critics have noticed similar instances in Virgil and Ovid. << Comtia velatarum obveftimas antennarum.*'— Via. 984 COAST OF SUSSEX. part of Mary survives. - O, boly Fancras ! witness of her piety and righteousuesSy-She made thee her heir ; do thou, beiqgn^ re- ceive a mother-The hostile dawn of the sixth calend of June- Broke the alabaster of flesh.*^ The parish contained, in 1831, 831 inhabitants* There are several Dissenting chapels in Lewes ; one, near I'he bridge, has a neat Ionic front. MISCELLANEQUI^ Several schools, alms-houses, and charitable associations, in I«ewes, indicate liberality on the part of its inhabitants. The county jail %* is said to be decent and appropriate. There are two or three superior libraries, a small Theatre, Horti- cultural Society, Mechanics' Institution, &c. &c. The bridge over the narrow river Ouse is an old one^ of one ' arch ; its upper part has been widened, and the whole r«idered neat. Near the town is a celebrated old mounds called Mount Ca^ burfif supposed to have been ori^nally a Roman camp. A poem on this subject, of great merit, was written by Mr. Hay, and includes an extensive range of local allusions. The town has several good inns, as the Star, Crown, White Hart, &c. &c., and several academies, and teachers. The streets are neatly paved, and kept very clean, aod the genial aspect of the town indicates much comfort: its total population is about 9000. Lewes has returned two members to Parliament since the year l&^i)8. The market-house,' which, internally, forms a small square, was rebuilt of brick in 1793 ; at its entrance is a belfrey, containing a fine-toned old clock bell, called Saint Gabriers, brought from the ruined church of St. Nicholas, and weighing about 18 cwt. The markets for provisions, cattle, sheep, and com, are considerable, as are also the fairs : races are leld at the end of July, Lewes is celebrated for its breweries, and has one steam paper-mill, the proprietor of which has lalso another at Isfield* It had formerly a consi- derable trade in wool ; now it iy principally confined to grain STANMBR. 5S5 and malt, and other articles of provision ; it imports a consi- derable quantity of malt, by the Ouse, from Newhaven, for the supply of the adjacent country. Leaving the western extremity of Lewes, on the hill beyond St. Ann^s church, is a fine view over the Downs on the left towards Rottingdean, and also a pleasing retrospective one of the upper part of the town of Lewes, and the lower suburb of Southover, with the large and rich meadows in that vicinity. Descending into a valley we come to Ashcombe Gate ; the turnpike-houses here are of rather ambitious construction, of a circular form, with pillars at the entrances, and will, per- haps, strike the traveller as unusually handsome. On the left is a plain house agreeably situated, lately purchased by Sir G. Shiffner, whose principal seat is at Coombe Place, in this neighbourhood. The road continues nearly flat between hills till the ascent to Fdlmer. In various parts of the road from Lewes to Brighton we meet with spacious and venerable looking farm-houses and buildings, affording no uncheering idea of the agricultural state of the district. The mansion at Falmer occupied by H. Rogers, Esq. is on the left^ agreeably situated amongst some fine old trees, and close by it is the church, which was neatly but ordinarily rebuilt of brick, in the present century. Interesting particulars of this parish are contained in the ** History of Lewes." The population is about 600. In Pope Nicholas^ taxation, " P'or de Lewes apud Faleme £54. Os. Od^." and '^ EccPia de Faleme cum Burg, (als Bercheme) jfilS. 65. M. P or Lewens'. " At the bottom of the hill on which the few houses of the village stand is Stanmer Park^ the seat of the Earl of Chichester. Per* sons on foot or on horseback, are allowed to pass through this park, but carriages are excluded, except those of pri- vileged individuals. The park is very pleasingly wooded, which was effected by the superintendence and assiduity of the late Earl of Chichester. No water is however appa- rent, and if there are any ponds or streams, they must be of an insignificant nature. The ride through this park 336 COAST OF SUSSEX. may in fine weather be strongly recommended to the visitors of Brighton : it is a favourite drive of his present Majesty. The house near the farthest end presents two stone fronts of very neat but perfectly plain architecture, and was buUt in 17S4 : of the interior, we are unable to give any account*. The small church a little further to the right, has a very .pretty appearance, with a neat spire, a restored window at the east end, which is mantled with ivy, and two curious old yew-trees in the churchyard : the village is just without the park gate. The park contains nearly the whole of the parish, and extends into those of Falmer and Ditchling. Returning to the entrance of the park, and emerging into the high road, which, it may here be mentioned, in its course from Brighton to Lewes, is considered to be en laughter broke ; As joying in those wants, which nature them had given. Since to as great distress the foresto should be driven. Like him that long time hath another's state envied^ And sees a following ebb, unto his former dde; The more he is depress'd, and bruised with fortune's might, The laiger rein his foe doth give to his despite: So did the envious Downs ; but that again the floods (Their fountaina that derive, from those unpitied woods. And so much grace thy Downs, as through their dales they eieep. Their g^iies to convey unto the Celtic deep) It very hardly took, much murmuring at their pride. Clear Levant, that doth keep the Southamptonian side (Dividing it well near from the Suasexian lands That Selsey doth survey, and Solent's troubled sands) diiayton's polyoldiok. 339 To Chichester their wrongs impatiently doth tell : And Arun* (which doth name the beauteous Arundel) As on her course she came, it to her forest told. Which, nettled with the news, had not the power to hold : But breaking into rage, wish'd tempests them might rive ; And on their barren scalps still flint and chalk might thrive, The brave and nobler woods which basely thus upbraid. And Adurt coming on, to Shoreham sofUy said. The Downs did very ill, poor woods so to debase. But now, the Ouse, a nymph of very scornful grace. So touchy wax'd therewith, and was so squeamish grown. That her old name she soom'd should publicly be known. WImmk bcvcn mat of mind when as it almoat grew. The lately passed times denominate, the New. So Cucmer with the rest put to her utmost might : As Ashbume undertakes to do the forests right (At Pemsey, where she pours her soft and gentler flood) And Asten once distain'd with native English blood ; (Whose soil, when yet but wet with any little rain, l^Doth blush, as put in mind of those there sadly slain. When Hastings' harbour gave unto the Norman powers, Whose name and honours now are denizen'd for ours) That boding ominous brook, it through the forests rung; Which echoing it again the mighty Weald along, Great sdr was like to grow ; but that the muse did charm Their furies, and herself for nobler things did arm." * " So it is conjectured, and is without controversy justifiable if that be the name of the river. Some fable it from Arundel, the name of Bevis* horse : it were so as tolerable as Bucepbslon, from Alexander's horse, Tymenna in Lyda from a goat of that name, and such like, if time would endure it ; but Bevis was about the Conquest, and this town is by name of Erundeie, known in time of King Alfred, who gave it with others to his nephew Athelro. Of all men, Goropius had somewhat a violent conjecture, when he derived Hsron- dell from a people called Charudes (in Ptolemy, towards the utmost of the now Jutland), part of whom he imagines (about the Saxon and Danish irruptions) planted themselves here, and by difference of dialect, left this as a branch sprung of their country title." f « This river that here falls into ^ j ocean might well be understood in that port of Adur, about this coast, the relicks whereof, learned Camden takes to be Edrington, or Adrington, a little from Shoreham. And the author here so calls it Adur.** ^ '* In the plain near Hastings^ where the Norman William, after his victory, found King Harold slain, he built Battle Abbey, which at last (as divers other monasteries) grew to a town enough populous. Thereabout is a place which after rain always looks red, which some have (by that authority, the muse also) attributed to a very bloody sweat of the earth, as crying to Heaven for revenge of so great a slaughter.** z2 340 WESTERN COAST. BRIGHTON TO CHICHESTER. Setting out from the western extremity of Brighton, and entering on the road beyond Adelaide terrace, we pass through the few houses forming the village of Hove, and leave its now humble church on the right, and emerge into an open and wild country, with few objects chequering its flat and uninteresting surface. Soon afterwards, however, the road attains an eleva- tion above the sea, and displays the inlet of the sea from Shoreham harbour, which flows up in a recursive direction for nearly two miles at high-water. The view opens a little here into the interior of the country, and exhibits the insignificant ruins of the destroyed village and church of Aldrington ; the more pleasing locality of Portslade, with its gray church on a bill, surrounded by foliage, and the villages of Kingston and South wick. %• PORTSLADE. *' North-east of Kingston, about one mile and a half, between two billsy lies the smsU village of Portslade, between three and four iliiles from Brighthelmstooe ; it contains several good houses, and has an old church, that cannot bosst of much beauty, though it may of antiquity ; it has a low liquare tower at the west end, embattled with nave and chancel, the former much altered, and the latter of the early simple pointed style."— Qent:* Mag. 1814. %• KINfsrf^ON. ** The church is but part of a larger edifice, and had formerly a lofly tower, though now it rises little above the roof; it is in the centre, and supported by a very large buttress at the north-west angle; the whole of very early date^ substantial and picturesque."—/^. %• SOUTHWICK. ** One mile and a half beyond this, in a westerly direction, is the pretty and extensive village of Southwick, finely situated and beautifully interspersed with trees. It has a highly curious and interesting church, with a tower, at the west end, of three stories, the first being plain, the second containing ten Saxon windows, and the third two eariy pointed KINGSTON. 341 arches; they are surmounted by a block coned^ and a good proportioned, though not high^ spire, covered with lead^ and terminated by a vane. The walls of the nave and chancel are Saxon -y by the arches still remaining, there was an aisle formerly on the north, but none on the south tide ; there are two early pointed windows on the south side of the diancel, the rest of a later date. The entrance is by a porch at the south side. ' Population in 1831, 502.— //&. Pope Nicholas^ Taxation : Ecd'ia de Aldrinton .... Eocl'ia de Porteslade .... Vicar' ejusdem Ecd'ia de Kingestone jux' Scorham For de Suthwyk *, Ag'culta' et redditus de Wissebom als Fissebum . Prior de Sea, in Sutewyk ded'a £. 1. d. 10 IS 4 90 6 13 4 16 13 4 2 1 4 3 6 8 " All along tfie sea-coast between Shoreham and Brighthdmstone is found washed up bituminous substances, exactly agreeing with the descrip- tion of the kimerage coal, called by the inhabitants stntmbolo, and whidi, till of late years, was the chief fud of the poor inhabitants of Bri^thebn- stonf", who were yery careful to pick it up after it was brou^t up by the tide ; but since that town has become more populous, by the resort of the gentry, it has grown out of use, on account of the nauseous smdl it emits at burning. As no stratum of this fossil is to be found in the diflk on the coast of Sussex, it must consequently be formed at the bottom of the sea, and by the violent agitation of the water be torn up and brought on shore by the tide." Haviog neglected to mark this extract, we have forgotten whether it was derived from ** Pennant's Tour," or from the History of Eastbourne, 1787, before alluded to. Kingston displays much naval traffic, and is an auxiliary to Shoreham. On approaching this port, the scene is of a cheerful and active character, indicating no small degree of business and acquisition; there is perhaps no port on the southern coast, with the exception of the public arsenals, which displays this feature in a higher degree. The effect of the harbour is totally different at high and low water, from the circumstance of its being a tide harbour. The piers are humble in their appearance, and the entrance very narrow and difficult from the projecting shoalbank, which, to the most • We perceive no records of a Priory at Soutlnvickt and are entirely ignorant to what this entry alludes. S4d COA6T OF SUSSEX. inexperienced eye, conveys the impression that great caution must always be necessary to avoid running aground. Between the town and Southwick is an observatory, overlooking the harbour, and the solid central tower of the collegiate-looking church adds its full effect to the appearance of the scattered and moderately peopled town. Shoreham, i. e. Old Shoreham, is supposed to have been the place of i^lla the Saxon's second landing with reinforcements, a short time previous to his victory near Anderida, which led to the establishma[it of the kingdom of the south Saxons, comprehend- ing Sussex and Surrey. It was given, with the whole rape, at the Conquest, to the family of Braose, who resided at the castle of Bramber, and by their extensive connexions with Normandy contributed to render this, during three centuries, the greatest port on the southern coast, especially for the importation of wines; they were accused, however, of frequent and rather harassing exactions from the merchants. In the armament of Edward III. at Calus, Shoreham furnished 20 ships and S29 men. After the connexion with Normandy ceased, the town rapidly declined : in 1432, the inhabitants are said to have decreased from 500 to 36 * ; perhaps the adult males alone were here computed. Shoreham has returned members to parliament from the ^8rd of Edward I. ; but from its great corruption the franchise was extended, in 1770, to the whole rape of Bramber. The church was originally a chapel of ease to Old Shoreham, and was given with it by one of the family of Braose to the church of St. Florence at Salmur, or Saumurf. In Pope Nicholas's taxation occur, ^* Eccl'ia de \eVi Scorham a^. Os. Od. EccPia de Nova Scorham lOl. Ojf. Od. hb't breve. Prior de Sela.** (This was, perhaps, given after it was made a separate parish, or the possessions of St. Florence were confiscated, but, be it as it may, we cannot explain it) — ** Prior de Sela in Vet*i Scorham 31. ISs. 4cl.'^ Here was a Carmelite Friary and two hospitals; the seal of one is extant, bearing the inscription — *^ THE.8ELE.OF.OVa.SAVlOR.JE$VS.CHRIST.OF.THE. OSPITAL.OF.SHOEAM.SUSSEX." • Carhvright. f Ibid. mmmm^^^^^^^'^^^ii^^^^^mmm^m^mmmmmmgmi ^ SUOBBHAM. 848 The church dedicated to St. Mary is the chc»r with side aisles, traosepts, and tower of the ancient building, whose nave is demolidied) except one arch walled up at the end» and sup- posed to be left as a support to the tower. Mr. Cartwright describes its former length as 310 feet, but from actual mea«- surement we found it to be the following: nave, 98 feet; tower, M; chair, 68; total, 186 only: he also gives the length of the transept, 92 feet, which we belike to be nearly 10 feet too much ; its breadth is 22^ and that of the choir and aisles 52. The external appearance of this church is striking and noble, exhibiting both the union and contrast of the Norman or Saxon and early pcMnted style ; its east end has three fine lancet windows with clustered columns, above, nearly equal to the window of Bievaux Abbey, in Yorkshire' and three circular arches below : at the summit is a rude circular window, with lozenged quatrefoils on each side, and a heavy cross. The clerestory has five spacious early pcxnted windows on each side, and two stupendous flying buttresses from the side aides; the windows of the aisles and transepts have been inserted in the fifteenth century, but the latter have circular arches above. The tower, about 80 feet high, bears a consi- derable resemblance to that of St Alban's Abbey ; it has two tiers of windows, the lower circular, and the upper of the same form within pointed arches ; above are three circles on each face. The church is not embattled, but has very bold para- pets throughout^ partially supported by corbels ; the windows have lately been repaired with Caen stone, and the whole is kept in ^eellent order. The interior is both graceful and magnificent, and is con- sidered to be, in the excellent proportions and correct disposi- tion of its mouldings, and the elegance of its arches and pillars, inferior to few on the Continent. The western arch of the tower is circular, and 88 feet in height ; the others are circular, but lower. Fine pointed arches, with strong clustered columns, open from the transepts into the aisles. The roofs of the middle and side aisles of the choir are vaulted, and the wall of each aisle is fretted with ten circular arches. The great arches of 344 COAST OF 8UC8KX. division are pointed, and are five in number on each side, springing, on the north side, from alternate octagonal columns with flowered capitals, and circular ones, and on the south side entirely from clustered columns, which are the most beautiful we have ever seen^ each consisting of 14 pilasters with flowered capitals, combining the elegance of the Corinthian witli the grandeur of the Gothic. The upper story is inferior to several others of the l^th and 13th centuries, especially that of Malms- bury Abbey. In the north clerestory is a :gallery, with three plain double arches west, and two handsome trefoil ones east ; the vaulting on this side ends above the pillars on handsome corbels. The east end has very rich mouldings; its small central window below has pilasters resembling the Ionic : the altar, of stone, is modem. At the west end is a high plain gallery above the arch, containing an extremely small organ, which forms a poor finish to this end ; but the whole of the interior is very neatly fitted up. The tower contains six bells, but one is broken and another damped. We cannot recom- mend the ascent, though often undertaken for the sake of the view ; it is totally dark, requiring a lantern, and in one part, where it has been repaired, so narrow, that it reminded us of the terrifying predicament of the poor Frenchman in that redoubtable and not-to-be-surpassed-in-interest history, *^ The Travels of Rolando round the World ;^ its summit is also dangerous, having no battlements, and a parapet about a foot high only. Adjoining the churchyard, which is very neat, is a national school. Shoreham contains about 1500 inhabitants. It is very cele- brated for the building of ships, some of which are as large as 700 tons, and sent to orders from a considerable distance. In the last year, a yacht was built here for the Corporation of Dublin. '^ The receipt of Customs at the Port of Shoreham on fo- reign goods imported averages about «£'30,000 a-year, and the declared value of goods exported about <£40,000 ; a great ad- dition is about to take place, more particularly in the receipts. SHOUEIIAM. S45 Shoreham having been approved as a warehousing port for West India, Mediterranean, and other produce, for the recep- tion of which large and commodious warehouses have been built, and others are in progress of erection. *^ The number of ships which entered the port during the past year was about 1,200, exceeding 100,000 tons; consisting, principally, of vessels from Russia, Prussia, Norway, America,- France, the Netherlands, Spain, and Portugal. ^^ Shoreham Harbour is a tide harbour, and the best on this line of coast; it was erected in the year 1816, by subscription, in shares, and has proved a very profitable undertaking to the subscribers, the <£100 shares being worth J[220 per share. The cause of the great prosperity of this work is to be attri- buted to its proximity to the large and flourishing town of Brighton, from which the seat of business is distant only three miles, Brighton being within the Port of Shoreham. The Steam Navigation Company's packets, plying between Brighton and Dieppe, also embark and disembark their passengers in Shoreham when the weather will not permit them to lie along^ side the chain pier. '' An elegant and most commodious Custom-house was erected here in the year 1830 by Mr. Sydney Smirke, which, together with a noble suspension-bridge, built over the river Adur, at the expense of His Grace the Duke of Norfolk, which is intended to be opened in March next, has greatly tended to improve the town, and will shorten the distance be- tween Brighton and Worthing at least two miles, bringing those towns to within ten miles of each other. The bridge was designed and erected under the superintendence of Clark, Esq., civil engineer *.'** The bridge alluded to, which forms a striking feature on approaching the town from Worthing, has piers of stone, and bears a greater resemblance to that at Hammersmith, than the Chain Pier of Brighton. * Obligingly communicated by S. P. Edwards, Esq., Collector of Customs at Shoreham. 346 COAST OF sirssex. Three-quarters of a mile further is the church of Old Shore- ham, ckMe by the present wooden bridge, over the Adur, which was erected by annuity subscription, but with a reversion to the Dulce of Norfolk, in the year 1781, and finished in ten months. It is 500 feet long, with S0 openings, and 12 feet wide, with two recesses 70 feet by S4. Here was, originally, a ferry, the tolls of which were, in the year 1387, worth 2W. per annum *• Old Shoreham church is considered as the mother church of the county, and, the probability is strong ld8worthy, Gen. Gk>ldsworthy, and Mr. Surgeon Keate. The Princess is this morning much recovered from the fatigue of travelling, and is as well as can be expected. Her Royal Highness and suite occupy two houses laid into one^ near the Beach. Mr. Surgeon Keate and family reside in the next house but one. '^ A party of the Derbyshire Militia, commanded by Captain Shuttle- worthy consisting of ISO men^ arrived here this morning from their camp en Clapham Common ; they have pitched their tents in a field near her Royal Highness's residence, and are to continue while the Princess remains. Among the persons of fashion already arrived, are Lady Curzon, Mr. Tier- ney, M.P. and family, Mr. Ellis and family, and Miss Parker." **Aug. 8, 17 98.—- Yesterday being the birth-day of her Royal Highness the Princess Amelia, it was observed here with much ec/dt. The morning was ushered in with ringing of bells ; the Fly sloop, stationed here, dis- played her colours, and at one o'clock fired a royal salute, which was answered by a feu^de-joie from the detachment of the Derbyshire Militia» who were marched down to the sands for that purpose. The Princess was carried on the sands in her settee chair, attended by her suite : her Royal Highness was in good spirits, and seemed highly pleased with the attention of Captain Cumberland, who kept the sloop under way, and upon diflferent tacks, while the Princess staid, which was near two hours. After her Royal Highness had dined, she held a little Drawing-room, attended by Lady Charlotte Bellasyse and Miss Gk>ldsworthy, when Captain Cumberland, of the Fly sloop. Captain Shuttleworth, and the officers of the Derbyshire Militia, were introduced by General Goldsworthy. The Princess gave orders that the soldiers should be regaled with a sufficient quantity of bread, cheese, and ale. In the evening a general illumination took place through- WORTHIXG. 353 oat the town and its vicinity ; among the most conspicuous were the houses of Mr. Ellis^ Mr. Strynger, Mr. Burke (the Circulating Lihrary), and the two Inns> kept by Messrs. Hogsflesh and Bacon. At nine o'clock, Captain Cumberland made an el^;ant display of fireworks on board the sloop^ which exhibited a very brilliant appearance from the shore to a vast number of spectators ; at the conclusion^ the vessel was illuminated from her ports to her top-gallants. Among the nobility who called to make inquiries after the health of the Princess in the course of the day were, his Grace the Duke of Norfolk, Lord (now Duke of Bedford) and Lady J. Russell, Lord Tor- rington. Lady Martin and daughters, Mr. and Lady Ann Ashley, Mrs. Bridgman, and Miss Byng. Mr. Strynger has, we understand, in a very polite manner, offisred the use of the grass plat in the front of his house for the accommodation of the Princess, when the tide prevents her Royal High- ness from going out on the sands." This circumstance was the principal cause of the rise and prosperity of Worthing, as the visit of the Prince of Wales was of that of Brighton. The popularity of the former was after- wards increased by the residence of the beloved and lamented Princess Charlotte. ^'Auff. 14, 1796.— Worthing, a pretty little bathing-place, about thirteen miles from Brighton, has at present to boast of many fashionable visitors. There are only two inns in the town, and a narrow road just divides them. The two landlords' names are Hogsflesh and Bacon." On this subject a puerile rhyme was current, something to the following effect : ** Brighton is a pretty street. Worthing is much taken : If you can't get any other meat. There's Hogsfl^ and Bacon." "Aug. 16, 1805. — This place, which has so much increased within these few years, particularly since Princess Amelia bathed here, widi elegant and first-rate houses, is now so fuU that families retire to Brighton for want of room. Lord Dundas's late house (who left here last week) was engaged before the family remained in it a week, notwithstanding its distance from the sea, by Miss Blake, the present occupier, who pays eight guineas a week for it. Within Aese three years thef-e have been no less than six streets built here, and at present occupied by persons of the first-rate fashion and fortune in England, viz. Montague Place, Bedford-row, Cop- ping's-row. Beach-row, Brook-street, and Hertford-street ; and, from their extensive view of the sea, are generally let at any price; there are several very capital houses now building in the town and its vicinity. X^^ Veaqh,^ without a difi^ at low water extends six miles, and at eblntidej, near thrqe quarters, and is generally five hours' ebb, by which the Utdles and gentle- men take delightful rides and walks, and in oth^ piurta }t is occupied by A A 354 COAST OF SUSSEX. some of the best cricket players in Eng^d, ^e lands being so fine and level." *^Aug, 28^ 1805.— This place stiU increases in company so much, that thore is not a single bed^ nor even any. accommodation to be got, the influx is so great. The sands yesterday adSbrded considerable sport by a pony race^ which brought the whole of the fashionable visitors here together, for a bridle and saddle, the first two miles to be run for by four ponies. Lady W. Gordon's favourite pony, late the Duke of Queensbenry^ was the favourite at starting; bets two to one against the fiesld, the bay pooy belonging to Mr. Broderick won by a whole length. ** After this race, the sporting gentlemen retired to the Admiral Ndson, where four matches were made for 500 guineas each : 1st, 300 yards; 2d, one mile; 3d, one mile and a half; and the 4th, two miles. These matdies will, it is said, be run for on Monday and Tuesday next Tlie Marquis of Blandford is stake-holder. Bets to a considerable amount are pending." '*Aug, 18, 1805.— Yesterday evening the sand was crowded with carri- ages of various descriptions : on inquiring the cause, we learned it was a great party of nobility, who had left Brighton, on visits here. The only places of accommodation for strangers in this town are two public-houses, opposite to each other, and kept by men of the name of Hogsflesli and Bacon ; out of 153 of the above party, only 42 could get any refreshments, or even a dinner ; and upwards of 100 persons were obliged to go back to Brighton, without any accommodation whatever; 27 persons dined at the house of Mr. Hogsflesh, and 15 at the house of Mr. Bacon ; and some were fortunate enough to get accommodation at the Admiral Ndson, a small house up the town. This inconveniency will be removed next season, by the building of an Hotel on a scale suitable to tlie dignity of the visitors ; there is also wanted an assembly room, which, we are informed, will be built, to be attached to the hoteL About eleven o'clock last night the whole of the inhabitants of this place were greatly alarmed by a fire which happened at Broadwater, about a mile from this town ; by some accident a rack of furae was set on fire, which communicated to several others of the same quality, but of greater magnitude ; the dryness of the fursc^ which was intended for the burning of bricks, made such a blaxe that most of the inhabitants actually thou^t the French were landed, and were burning down the town ; while others, not so frightened, hastened to the spot where the supposed enemy had landed, but soon discovered their mistake, and quietly returned back to bed. Last night pony and donkey racing were frequent on the sands." **Aug. 19, 1805.— From the fineness of the moniing yesterday, as early as six o'clock, the sands were crowded with fashionable families. After breakfast the beach and sands were crowded with barouches, curridcs, ponies, and donkeys. Last night we had the heaviest fall of rain ever remembered at tliis season of the year, and the whole of this day we had a tremendous thunder-storm, accompanied with heavy showers of hail and i WOHTHING. 855 ndn. On Friday a grand cricket-match was played at Broadwater^ about a mile from this place, between 1 1 gentlemen of London, and 12 of Worth- ing, Shorefaam, and Brighton, for five hundred guineas a side. The wickets were pitched at eleven o'clock, and decided on Saturday in favour of London by two wickets." '' A letter fitnn Worthing, dated Sept. 23, says, * Two vessels are now cruizing off here, the Beaumont (late the Rose) and the Lion. Yesterday & hoBi from tibe Rose was despatched to the shore for provisions, having five men on board, which was unfortunately upset about two miles from die shore. The men dung to the vessel, waiting the arrival of boats, which set off to their assistance. As she k^t sinking by their weight, two of the brave fellows, that could swim, let go their hold, and told the others to stick fast by her. One of the boats came up with the swimmers^ who told them not to wait for them, but to hasten to the assistance of those who could not swim, which they did. The whole were in this way saved ; but the two generous tars, who were so anxious for their companions, were nearly gone before they were picked up by a second boat However, by the care of those on shore, they were soon recovered, and had their gene- rosity rewarded by a liberal subscription.' f » ** A privateer of no common magnitude was taken by one of our gun- brigs, near this part of the Channd last night, and safely conveyed into the port of Worthing this morning." " Brighion^Avg» 26.— A French privateer secreted herself last night near Worthing, and, about four in the morning, captured a sloop, laden with sugars, teas, &c. &c., to the value of 7000^ As some part of the in- habitants were stirring at this early hour, they gave the alarm, and Captain Remus, in a revenue cutter, recaptured the sloop about five ; and, after bringing her into Shoreham harbour, went in pursuit of the privateer, which she captured in three hours after (a few shots being fired from the cutter), and brought her safe into Little Hampton." 1807. " A most ludicrous circumstance happened latdy at Worthing, which has caused much meniment. About the time of Brighton races, the bell- man of Worthing gave notice to the inhabitants and visitants in that town, that a lady had lost a wig, coming from Broadwater, and the restorer of it was to be handsomdy rewarded ; but notiiing was heard of it at that time. About a week ago, a bird's nest was discovered in a tree, in a meadow be< tween Broadwater and Worthing ; some yoimg gentlemen climbed the tree for the nest, and disturbed a magpye ; when, to their great surprise, it proved to be the identical wig that was lost, with nothing in it but a few sticks, and the maker's name sewed in the inside, ' No. 68, Cryer's, Comhill, Catalani.'" <^The Flying Artillery have left the barracks here to encamp near Worthing, which place they leave, to form flying encampments in the neighbourhood of Arundd, Chichester, ^c. They do not return to thb place before August." A a2 3d6 COA»T OF SUSSKX. *^Julf «4.-Ota TaesJa^r l»t the Princess Clurrtotte of Wales, ac- companied by Lady De Cliflbrd, made her appearance at Worthing. The yeomanry and the yolunteer corps were on duty on the occasion^ and the Tillage was brilliantly illuminated in the evening. The greater part cyf the nobility at present here have since paid a visit to Worthing, to ooa» gratulate her royal highness on her arrival — Lord Craven, and a large party of ladies and gentlemen, sailed for Worthing yesterday morning, in his lordship's pleasure yacht Off the place a royal salute was fired; the company soon after were put on shore, where they continued for several hours, and in the evening returned to this town." ** Worthing. — This place is as gay as in the middle of summer, and more crowded than any other watering place. The influx of diomal visitors from Brighton, Arundd, and Little Hampton, is very great The theatre is very well attended ; the grand mdo-drama of TekeU is brought out with great splendour, and attracts very great houses." '* Brighton, Aug. 10. —As early as nine o'clock yesterday morning, the Prince left this place on horsebadc, to pay a visit to the Princess Charlotte of Wales, at Worthing. It was nearly six in the evening before hb royal highness returned. During his absence, the Duke of Clarence arrived here, and afterwards dined with his royal brother at the Favihon. DESCRIPTION. THE ESPLANADE measures between half and three-quarters of a mile in length, and is twenty feet wide, forming a neat gravelled terrace, slightly yet sufficiently elevated above the level of the waves, which flow up close to its base ; a barrier is also thus effected against the incursions of the sea. The bathing machines are ranged immediately below it on the beach, which is one of the finest, smoothest, and most regular expanse of firm sand on the English coast, affording the readiest facilities for bathing at all seasons, and the most extensive facilities for driving and riding that are to be met with in this part of the coast. We find it stated, that the entire level suited to this purpose is nearly twelve miles; and we have formerly visited Little Hampton, eight miles distant, in this manner, entered the harbour and town, and returned, during the time of low water. The esplanade is of course the fashionable pro- menade of the town ; some neat pleasure-boats, though not of considerable size, are stationed ofi* the beach, and flies, ponies, donkeys, ^^ et id genus omne** of auxiliaries to pleasure or henlth are stationed in the carriage road in front of the Parade. WOUTHING. 357 BUILDINGS IN 6£N£RAL. Worthing is not a regularly built town, but by no means suffers in appearance from this circumstance; in fact, we think it gains by it, as the visitor finds at many turns new objects which he would scarcely have expected. Like Brighton, it follows the line of the sea, but has many openings in an opposite direction, one of the principal of which is the Steyne^ a very neat oblong space, of about four acres, surrounded on three sides by handsome dwelling houses. Warwick House is in this direction, which is usually let to some visitor of distinction, and has been occupied by some members of the Royal Family; it has nothing beyond neatness in its exterior, but is said to have been erected after the plan of a Roman villa. About the centre of the esplanade, a well built but very short street opens into a large space or square, forming the body of the town, with several neat shops, offices, bazaars, &c. at its right and left ; at the end, is the Chapel of Ease ; at the south-east extremity, the market, a theatre, library, and the back of the Steyne. At the south-west angle is the ap- proach to Park Crescent, the most recent and the grandest pile of buildings in Worthing, which commands a fine pro- spect in which the spire of Tarring is a conspicuous object, and is erected in a very good style of architecture, not the least ornaments of which are the beautiful Termini at the entrance gate ; there are several other neat piles of buildings in the place, which need not be particularized, but tb$? tout ensemble is neat, airy, and graceful. THE CHAPEL OF EASE was erected in 1811-12, at an expense of 13,000/., and is a neat edifice of pale brick, with a stone portico of mixed Doric and Tuscan character, and a bold though low turret Its in- terior will contain about 8.50 persons, a portion of whom are free. Neatness almost approaching to plainness characterizes its interior ; but it has a good organ, which cost 600Z., and is gratuitously played by a Miss Morrab, daughter of a medical gentleman in the town. 358 COAST OF SUSSEX. THE MARKET is a neat, quadrangular erection, between Ann and Market Streets, with a double entrance. There are several charitable institutions in Worthing which come more properly under the head of Broadwater, but amongst them the Dispensary should be particularly mentioned. BATHS. Worthing has two of these establishments of a very su- perior character. The Royal Baths have a spacious boarding- house attached to them, which is a great convenience to the invalid ; and the Parisian Baths have, in the ladies' depart- ment, a conservatory. THE THEATRE, though small, is tastefully decorated and richly painted in the interior, and considered very pretty for a country establish- ment. Some years back, it was still more highly patronised and extensively frequented than it is at present, and was then, under the management of Mr. Trotter, considered as a nursery for performers, especially songstresses* ; but it is now, under different conductors, well managed, and obtains a share of ap- probation. LIBRARIEa Stafford's library, fronting the sea, is an old-established one, and well conducted : — speaking of this and the theatre, some ten years ago, we remember them in their zenith. Miss Carter's library, in Warwick-street, lately opened, is a tasteful establishment, consisting of three rooms, the two first par- taking of the library and the bazaar, and the third a reading- room, opening to a lawn and flower-garden. Mr. Shearsmith speaks highly of the engaging attention of the conductresses, * Mr. Shearsmith's (surgeon) Description of Worthing, from which we have derived several hints. WOKTHIXG. 359 in which, from a brief opportunity of judging, we are disposed very fully to coincide, iNNa Tlie Sea-House Hotel is, perhaps, the grandest establish- ment, but the Marine Hotel opposite affords equal comfort; of a similar character is the Steyne Hotel, and there are some other very respectable inns in the place. MISCELLANEOUS. Worthing has a bank ; a sufficient number of physicians, surgeons, instructors, schools, &c. ; coaches to London, and others to principal places along the coast, especially Brighton and Chichester. VICINITY OF WORTHING. The church and village of Broadwater lie north-east from Worthing about a mile distant, and the commencement of this walk is as pretty as one will see ^' on a summer's day.*" The church here is one of the few which are perfect *' gems" in Sussex, from the extreme poverty of the generality ; but this would be considered a handsome one in any part of the kingdom. It is built in the form of a cross, but without bat- tlements to the high shingled roofs, which is rather a draw- back to its external appearance. The internal length is 139 feet, viz. — nave, 61, tower, 20, and chancel, 58; length of the transept, 90 ; breadth of the nave and aisles, 4^. The tower in the centre has Norman windows, and a round comer turret, lately erected in place of a pointed roof. A mixed style of the twelfth, thirteenth, and four- teenth centuries characterizes the interior. The nave has plain, pointed arches, with circular columns; a pointed arch, with zigzag ornaments, not dissimilar to those of Eastbourne Church, opens into the tower; whilst its opposite one is circular, and has rich capitals of palm-branches, an ornament introduced by the Crusaders. The roof of the chancel is 360 COAST OF SUSSEX. vaulted, resting on five pilasters, each pilaster on both sides resting on a bird's beak corbel, as at Shoreham, with capitals partly foliated and partly plain. The side-windows of the chancel were altered in the fourteenth century, and a hand- some one at the end is of the same date ; the west window of the church is of the fifteenth century. On the north side of the chancel is the rich though heavy canopied and fretted monument of Lord De la Warr, 1526, engraved in Mr. Cart« Wright's work; and, in the south transept, another, to a member of the same family, 1554, when Italian ornament had been to a still farther extent combined with the Gothic, and bearing a greater affinity to some of the later ones in Arundel Church : both of these are eminently worthy of notice. On the floor of the chancel are also several interesting brasses and inscriptions. The north transept has been parted off for a school-room, as the south has for a spacious vestry. In the tower are six small, musical bells, in very good condition. The whole of the interior of the church has been liberaUy and handsomely fitted-up, at an expense of upwards of 1200/ , more than 700/. of which was raised in the parish. At the end of the chancel is a solid and handsome altar-piece, with white and gold tables, and a large glory in the centre; the common altar-cloth, of blue, with yellow silk fringe and braid- ing, a glory, and IHS., is inscribed, " Ex dono Hen. Travers, Arm, 1723,^ and is in surprising preservation ; but a splendid one, of similar pattern, in crimson velvet and gold, and another for the pulpit, has been given by Miss Daubuz, of Ofiington, who has also increased the communion-plate. The churchyard is densely crowded with tombstones, but very neatly kept. We accidentally noticed one which, after expressing Christian hope, concluded with classic elegance — " FUio bene meritOj contra ardinem^ parenies/* This reminds one of Cicero's affecting apostrophe, not, also, without hope — ^^ Cujus a me corpus crematum est^ quod contra decuii ab Ulo Tueum.^ The rector of Broadwater is the Rev. P. Wood, M.A.,and the curate, also of the chapel at Worthing, the Rev. W. Da- BAOADWTATKB. 361 visoD, M.A. It would be less than strict justice, on the equitable principle, " Palmam qui meruit ferat," if we were not to add, that both these gentlemen are most diligently though unobtrusively engaged in their sacred duties, and in every thing tending to promote benevolence, morality, and prosperity, vrithin the circle of their influence. Broadwater, including Worthing, now contains upwards of 4500 inhabitants, a population which, of course with a prin-* cipal reference to the latter, has been trebled since 1801. Much interesting information of the history of this parish will be found in Cartwrighfs Rape of Bramber. In the Norman survey it was held of WilUam de firaose, but after- wards it passed into the hands of the noble family of Camoid, and was the head of their Barony. One of these, in 1313, obtained a grant of a market and fair at Broadwater. In the reign of Henry VII. it was possessed by the celebrated Sir Reginald Bray ; subsequently it has been in the hands of a variety of parties, and now belongs to a Mr. Newland. Offington, in this parish, was, in the fifteenth century, the seat of the De la Warrs, the most celebrated of whom, a statesman and ambassador, and Knight of the Garter in the reign of Henry VIII., is the nobleman who has the splendid monument in the chancel. In his will he ordered that he should be buried with honour, and that twopence should be given in alms to every person who chose to come and claim it ; towards which he left his gold garter and chain. He also be- queathed to the church his mantle of blue velvet, and his gown of crimson velvet, of the Garter, to make two altar-cloths. In the Burrel MSS. is an inventory of the goods of the last Thomas Lord De la Warr, who died in 1 Mary, 1554: the following extracts, which we have transcribed, will show both the extent of the original mansion, and the nature and value of a number of miscellaneous articles at the time it was taken. APARTMENTS. ** My lord's bedchamber. The gallery chamber. The inner gallery, with The doeet next the garden. • \ 1 362 COA8T OF SUSSEX. The giOery at my lord's chamber door. The genteU women's chamber. The maids' chamber. My Lady West's chamber. The great chamber. The middle chamber. The ladder chamber. ThehalL The gallery going into the diapeL The diapd chamber. The black parkr. The ydlet chamber. The chamber within the veUet dumber. Mr. West's diamber. The chamber over. The newe worke. Furniture. The tower chamber. My Lady Shirk's chamber. The ncrcerye. The three chambers. The chamber over the butlerye. The parler over the seller. The new chamber within it" Two other purlers, and thirty other chambers and offices. VALUATIOXS. The " docke and the bdl " are valued at 26s. Sd. The ''chappdl stuff" at ftSL I5s. 6d; besides a "payer of organs" 31; a diaUoe, 14 ounces, SL lOf. id.; a vestment of Uue vdvet, with other things, 30s. «* ' The wardropp/ 32L 5i. '* A * kirtell' of crimson whyte^ lined with saroenett, and a hood to oor- respondy 6L ^ My lord's robes of the C^larter, 18/. ^ My lord's appardl and armour, 55/. I7s. StL The pkte k in a variety of items, about 350/. in the whol^ and the collar, &c Sec of the Garter, 95/., and a vast quantity of linen. Also of com and live stock. The best horse k worth SL, two at 4/., others from 40«. down to ar.; 8 working oxen. III 6s. Sd.; 10 fatting oxen, 12L 3s, id.; 181 sheep, 19L 2s. Property at Ewhurst, rather more than AOL ** My lord's house in London" between SO^ and 30/., besides ^'agowneof bkcke vellet facyd with satten," 10/.; *' a jackett of veUet with kce," U. 900 maribB for 3 years after hk decease given by the king and queen out of the Exchequer, for the due performance of hk will, — 400A 4 years' profit of certain manors in Devonshire, 134^ 3s. Ad. Some small debts: — ready money, 16/. ** Summa totalis of all the inventorye k 1800/. 1 Is, ^d." OfBngton is now a plain-looking respectable mansion, not LANCIKG DOWN. 368 having the appearance of great antiquity, standing in a small park, finely wooded with old trees, and belonging by purchase to J. T. Daubuz^ Esq. Pope Nicholas's Taxation : — Eccl'ia de Bradewater cum capella {var. read. capelUs) . . . £46 13 4 Prioriss^ de Esseborn, in Bradewat' Worthing de redd' assize • . . S 1 In the parish also is Cisabury^ a hill of sixty acres, sur- rounded by a vallum, imagined to have been originally a British encampment, and afterwards adopted by the Romans : subsequently also by the Saxons, as its name, from one of their kings, Cissa, evidently demonstrates. In addition to this eminence, formerly a camp, and Chanck- bury, a bolder one, crowned with a picturesque clump of firs, which faces Steyning and Bramber, there is a third, called Highdown hill ; and all these formed a chain of connexion with St. Rook^s, or Roche's hill, near Chichester. Highdown has also the tomb of an eccentric, though good-hearted, miller, sometimes visited by those who, in the former respect, are as silly as himself. ROMAN PAVEMENT. LANCIMO DOWN. After the visitor has passed through Upper Lancing, he will enter on a singularly wild country, to which we hardly know what appellation to give : it is too dreary for pastoral effect; yet, having some herbage, can hardly be termed a desert. It will be a variety, at any rate. The remains are situated on an eminence of the South Downs, which, as far as space is concerned, has certainly a commanding view. We are disposed to speak well of ^^ the show,^ in order to serve the honest and patient man who has discovered and preserves it: but we are not of those dry antiquaries, who have a pleasure in burrowing in the earth, and disturbing the bones of the defunct. We had therefore as lief not see the moul- dering relics here collected, and care but little to whom they S64 COAST OF SUSSEX. belonged. Still there are other objects of interest in the shape of curiosa, though in their material by no means hand- some, pavements, some small altars, lavatories, &c. and a really valuable collection of coins. But having already stated our ignorance of and distaste to this peculiar walk of antiquity, we had better leave the reader to form his own opinion. A curious efiect has the red and white flag, which the honest man has stuck up on this wild hill, with the inscription ^* Roman Pavement^ in large characters. He has also erectecl a neat species of hut to receive visitors, and enclosed the ground in a neat style; and both he and his son evince a gratifying intelligence, and wish to please. One mile to the west of Broadwater is Tarrinff^ now a decayed town, but a place of much ancient importance and association. The manor was given by King Athelstan to Christchurch, Canterbury, between the years 94-1 and 944, and was in the possession of the archbishop of Canterbury, till it was usurped by the crown about the time of Cranmer ; but the impropriate rectory is still possessed by the Archbishop. *' There seems to have been a church or monastery at Tarring, built to the honor of Sl Andrew in the time of Offa, King of the Mercians; and there were some remains of it in a free chapel^ or peculiar jurisdiction^ which continued here to the time of Edward III. See Monoit. Ang. In a Car- tukiy of the Archbishop of Canterbury is a covenant between the Dean of South Mailing and the Rector of South Mailing touching jurisdiction. " Mr. £IIiot in a note says, there seems to be no reconciling the date in the Monastioon^ nor ascertaining the founder from thence, who was either Earl Waldhere, or Adwlf, Duke of Sussex."— J9vrre// MSS. In the S4th year of Henry VI. the inhabitants petitioned for a market, for these curious reasons : — that whilst the men of the town were attending neighbouring markets those re- maining in the town and their wives and children had often been slain or maltreated by incursions of the French and Spaniards ; which, as Mr, Cartwright observes, was very ex- traordinary, since there was a market not farther off than Broadwater. Their petition was, however, granted in the following charter ; its original is kept in an old chest in the church tower. TARRIKG. 365 Terringe villa: mercat in dieSabbaii, — Tower Rec. No. 37. SI ff. 6. '' HenricusDei gratia Rex Anglic & Frandi^ et D us Hiherniie^ Arcliiepis, £pi*8, Abbi'ts, Prioribus, Dadbus, Mardiionibus, ComitibiUy YiceooipitibuB^ Migoribus BalliYis, Constabulariia ministris et omnibas flddibus suis ad quoe pnefientes L're perrenerint, salutem. Sdatia q'd cum noe p' humilem supplicationemj dilcctomm Ligeor' n'ror hominum in villa de Tering in com Sussex prope mare dtuata habitandum intelleximus, qualiter ipsi pluribuB temporibiu, p' inimioos nostros Frand« et alianim partlom ibi- dem^ per mare transeontea quam plurima dampna deperdita in oorporibus et bonis suis indies sustinent et patiuntur, qualiter etlam pnefati homines aliquod mercatum in villa pnedicta minime habent, p' quod pnefati ho- mines in absentia sua in eundo ad proximum mercatum, non solum yiUam illam yerum etiam omnia bona sua in eadem existent: indies . . . formi- dantur; Nos ad pnemissa oonsiderationem habentes yolentesque eosdem l%eo8 nostros in hac parte rdevare et snpportare ut tenemur, de gratia nostra spedali conoessimus pro nobis et heredibus n'ris, quantum in nobis est, hominibus in dicta villa de Terring habitantibusy quod ipsi imperpe- tuum habeant et teneant sibi et successoribus suis unum mercatum singulis septimanisy apud predictam' villam de Terring tenentur in die Sabbati^ ita tamen quod mercatum illud, non sit ad ocumentum alior' vidnor' mer- cator.' Hiis testibua— venerabilibus patribus. J. Cantuar. totius Anglic Primatiy Cancdlario noetro, W. Lincoln. Th. Bathon & WeDen. W. Car. Epi's ; carissimo avunculo nostro Humfrido Duoe Gloucestr';— Carissimis consanguineis nostris Humfrido Stafibrd, & Will'o Suff Seneshallo Hospicii nostri, comitibus, necnon dilectis et fidelibus n'ris, Kadulfo Cromwdl et Rudo Boteller Thesaurario ars militibus et apud Westmonasterium, un- dedmo die Junii, anno regni n'ri 22°.— Louthe p. breve de privato Sigillo et de data predicta, auctoritate Parliament!." *' Transcribed from the orig. charter in y* possession of Rev^ Mr. Pen- fold, min^ of Terring, Sussex, April 18, 1779. The seal appended re- presents y king on horseback in oompleat armour, inscribed " Henricus Dd gratia Rex Francis, Anglic, et I>\ Hibeme. Reverse, the king dt- ting on his throne, robed and crowned, holding in his right hand a soeptr^ and in his left the orb with the cross, inscribed round y« brim as before."— See Sandford's Geneal. Hist, plate, p. 244. Edit of 1707.— Burreli MSS. The ancient rectory-house has been surmised to have been a manor-house or palace occasionally inhabited by Thomas a Becket. This is, of course, an interesting relic, but is not generally shown ; we saw it only by sufferance. The archi- tecture of the principal remains appears posterior to the year 1400 : one large and regularly built room is supposed to have been the chapel, now used as a Sunday-school. We were in- formed that about fifty years ago, the premises were far more extensive ; twenty bed-rooms are even spoken of, where there S66 COAST OF SUSSEX. are now only two. Interest is still attached to a place of such celebrated associaticMiSy though the contrast is now both strange and cheerful ; part of the building is used aa a dairy, and the whole is surrounded by a good kitchen- garden interspersed with flowers, and all this where the lordly prelate walked gravely in amice and pall, incense was swung through the air, and prayers chaunted in a strange tongue — yet the most noble and musical of the ancieat or modem world. Tarring eontaina three hamlets, Heene, Darrington, and SalvingUm ; the second had a chapel, and the third was the l»rtliplace and residence of the celebrated SELDEN, termed by his antagonist Grotius ^^ the glory of the English nation.^ Sir William Jones, in a letter to Mr. Cartwright, declared *' that he considered Selden so great an object of imitation, that if he could obtain a similar honour of representing the University of Oxford in Parliament, he would, like him, de- vote the rest of his life to the service of his constituents and his country, to the practice of an useful profession, and to the unremitted study of our English laws, history, and literature.^ Selden^s house still remains at Salvington, very little larger than a cottage, with some curious old wood framework at the end. On the lintel of the door withinside arc two lines, sup- posed to have been composed by himself, and cut by him in the wood ; but they are certainly the production of one of his most trifling and least happy moments, as they have not the slightest pretensions to wit or point of any kind. *' ORATV'S HON ESTlSy MIHI^ NO' GLAUDAB^ INITO, 8EDSQUE : FUR ABEAS; NO* SV* FACTA SOLYTA TIBI." lis is wanting in the first line to make out the sense. A friend of Mr. Cartwright's contributed this translation : — " Thoa'rt weloome, honest friend, walk in, make free 3 Thief, get thee gone^ I open not to thee." The following would be more literal : — " Welcome, if honest,— enter, rest thee free ; Thief, hence ! I was not open made for thee." WORTHING. 867 Tarring, with its hamlets, contains about 1200 inhabitants. The church is a lofty and spacious structure, and has, with the exception of Chichester Cathedral, the best spire in the county ; it rises from a lofty and very well-built tower of the fourteenth century, is octagonal in form, and 137 feet from the ground ; on its summit is a conductor and a vane. The body has a long and very highly pitched nave, apparently nearly fifty feet, and two side aisles, with early Grothic arches and lancet windows ; the chancel is also forty feet by twenty-one, and has very good windows of the early part of the fifteenth century, the side ones of two lights, and the eastern of five, engraved in Cartwright, above which is a cross fleury. Some ancient stalls are in the chancel, but not equal to those at Broadwater. In the tower are five bells, in a still worse state than those at Shoreham, two of them being broken, and the remaining three only sounded by ropes tied to the clappers. The large old chest contains some very curious accounts of the churchwardens from 1515 to 1679, from which Mr. Cart- wright has made extensive extracts. At the entrance of the church a poors^ box bears the conciliating invitation, *^ He that giveth to the poor lendeth,^' &c. &c. The town appears reduced, and it is encouragement enough, in all such cases, that the interest is enormous and the security infallible. Worthing, during the ** spirit stirring^ times of the anti- cipated French invasion, was a considerable station for mili- tary ; it has now only one troop of horse, belonging to the corps in head-quarters at Brighton. Of the various poetical efiPusions on the sea that have met our notice, we think some of the most fortunate have been those of Barry Cornwall, Hogg, and Cunningham ; but there is a morceau on this subject, " The Sea-Spirit'^s Song,** by Lord Thurlow, in the Gentleman's Magazine for 1815, which exhibits much ease and gracefulness. The following lines ap- peared, with initials similar to those of the author of this vo- lume, in the Cambridge Chronicle, 182S. 368 (?OAST OF SUSSEX. MIDNIGHT SONG OF THE NEREIDS. «i Of Tetfays' race Oar birtfi we trace. And we roam o'er the Ocean's moat beautiful face. In proud and pure dominion ; No nymph above Can happier roye. Or spread to the redolent air of the grove The folds of her gossamer pinion. ** Sweet is our home 'Neath the silver foam, Through valleys of pearl and of amber we roam. The secrets of ocean bdiolding : The azure flowers That deck our bowers Are as sweet as the wreaths of the light-footed Hours, When the portals of day are unfolding. " Round everv dime Is our track sublime 3 We sldm round the cold dreary mountains of rime. That on Thule's shores are frowning; 'Neath Etna's height Is our pathway light, IVhen sternly the sable abysses of night His beacon of glory is crowning. ^' Ausonian vales Have heard our tales, And we've scented the flowery perfume that exhales From the islands of Araby streaming; At Ino's name To her shores we came ; We have been where the Magian's altar of flame On Ecbatana's mountain is gleaming. ** Latona's isle Hath seen our smile^ And we watch'd as it sprung from the Ocean the whil^ In the pale saffron lustre of even ; We sang its birth To the realms of earth. And we raised on the winds our wild chorus of mirth. Till it rang on the echoes of Heaven ! SONG. 3(>i) " Athena's strand Is our dearest land. And we joy o'er the palms of her generous band^ When the trophies of ocean have crown'd her. But AN ISLE SHALL BR In the western sea, The queen of the deep^ and the land of the free. And the glories of earth shall surround her! " To Thetis dear Our vows we bear. And we braid with fresh garlands her beautiful hair. When the foaming surge was o'er thee, Leuoothoe, We sang to thee. And we laid thy fair limbs on the couch of the sea. And we worship now before thee. " To Neptune's court We oft resort. Oft glad round his chrysolite axles we sport. As they roll o'er the surface of ocean. The Triton's shell Sounds the triumph well^ And the gorgeous sea-monsters their fealty tell. As they gambol in joyous oonunotion. " Around thy car. Our Ocean Star, Where the bright snowy steeds and the diadem are. Our yirgin troops are sailing. In frequent quire, Our aged Sire, We hail, to the notes of the silvery lyre. When the rays on the mountain are failing. — " But away, away !— —For the fire of day From the gates of the Orient is burning ! To our sport, or our sleep. In the bowers of the deep ; Till again in the moonlight our vigils we keep. When the shadows of eve are returning." B B 370 COAST OF SUSSEX. TO LITTLEHAMPTON AND BOGNOR. The route through these two places to Arundel is, of course, a very devious one ; we merely took it in order to have a brief survey of each. The direct road from Worthing to Arundel is about ten miles, but contains not a single object of the least interest The road to Littlehampton is not an unpleasant one, and passes through two or three villages, one of which. West Pres^- ton, the burying-place of Selden, has a rather curious slender tower and spire. LITTLEHAMPTON, although a very small village until the commencement of the present century, is a place of some ancient renown. Be- fore the Conquest, a small portion of it belonged to the Coun- tess Goda, daughter of Ethelred II., and afterwards the manor was principally in the hands of the foreign abbeys of Almanische and Seez, and also of the Earl of Mount Gromeri. A farm still called Baillie's Court, in a portion of the parish termed Atherington, is mentioned in Pope Nicholas: " Balli de Ateriton, in Hampton, 19/. 7^. ^.*' The Empress Maud is supposed to have landed here in 1139, when she proceeded to Arundel Castle, and was hospitably received by Queen Ade- liza, which led to a siege by Stephen *. Philip, Earl of Arun- del, designing to escape from Queen Elizabeth^s severe treat- ment of the Catholics, was arrested here in 1586 "I*. In 1644, was taken here (a spoil of a Dunkirk ship) a large painting of the martyrdom of the 11,000 virgins of Cologne (or rather, as is supposed, the two, from the mistake of UndedmUla^ the name of Ursula^s companion, for Undecim Millia), and placed in the Star Chamber. The church has lately been rebuilt in a very neat and bold style, with a large body, nearly 100 feet long, and two small entrances in the centre of each side, similar to transepts. The tower rises very slightly above the roof, but has handsome pin- ♦ DallawBy. f Ih, LITTLE HAMPTOK. 871 nacles, and three clock faces. The interior is simple, but neat, with a good altar-piece, and a very small organ. The hand- some decorated east window from the old church and the font wer€! saved by the exertions of Mr. Cartwrighf. In the fa- vourite style, however, of Sussex, the towei* has only one bell. This capacious and lofty erection only cost 2600L Littlehampton has trebled its population since 1801, and now contains upwards of 1600 inhabitants. This is, of course, owing to its having become a resort for sea-bathing, for which it possesses sufficient facilities, and is rather a favourite place with those who prefer quiet and retirement. The air, both here and at Bognor, is very mild. The river Arun flows from hence to Arundel ; and Littlehampton is, properly speaking, the harbour, though the embouchure of the arm of the sea is in the parish of Climping. The harbour was repaired, and piers erected, in the year 1796 ; it has now a considerable and lively traffic, and builds large vessels for the West India trade ; a small fort was erected in 1739. There are, at Littlehampton, a library, amateur band, baths, &c., and other accommodations. A benefit society exists here on very excellent principles. The Earl of Surrey has a seat at Littlehampton. We tried more than once to obtain for this little volume the patronage of this noble family, but could obtain no answer — a circumstance which we regretted ; still we shall proceed to give a concise account of Arundel, with that impartiality, which, as we have tried our utmost to pre- serve, we hope we shall be allowed to have strictly adhered to. BOGNOR. The river at Littlehampton, which is about 125 yards broad, is crossed by a floatii^ ferry-bridge, of curious construction, which accomplishes the tranritin about two minutes, conveying two carriages at a time. It is brought over by winding up a chain, stretched from the opposite shore, round a windlass in the side of the bridge. From Little Hampton to Bognor the principal villages bb2 372 COAST OF SUSSEX. passed through are Yapton and Fclpham ; the church at the former contains this inscription : — '^ Sacred to the memory of Stephen Roe, Citizen of London, bom in this parish and buried at Islington, who by his will, dated Oct. 17, 1766, gave twelve hundred pounds (three per cent. South Sea annuities) to the poor of this parish, yearly for ever. '' The parent hence shall ne'er depart. But love each babe with joyful heart. To view this church stone. Here gratitude delights to dwell. And young and old shall always tell The good that Roe has done. Soft pity now shall comfort woe. And ignorance have herself to know. By bounty taught and fed. Orphans and widows more and more^ And children yet unborn shall pour Thdr blessings on his head." Felpham, near Bognor, was the residence and burial- place of the celebrated Dr. Cyril Jackson, Dean of Christ- church, and of Hayley the poet. The epitaph for the former has simply the universally applicable sentence — ^^ Enter not into judgment,^ &c. Mr. Hay ley ^s has the following lines written by Mrs. Opie, with whom, as well as her husband, he was on intimate terms of friendship. '' Hayley ! beloved friend ! tho' round thy head The muse's wreath its graceful foliage spread ; Tho' Fame was long thy talents' rich reward. And Fashion smiled upon Serena's bard ; Tho' thou wast form'd in polished courts to shine. And learning's stores and playful wit were thine; Tho' Cowper's self thy tuneful strains approved. And praised the poet while the man he loved,— Cowper, who lives in thy recording page. To interest, charm, and teach the ftiture age;— Oh ! not on these alone thy honours rest. But, that thy name pale want and misery bleas'd ! That, such thy Rowing leal for all mankind. So vast thy charity, so unconfined. Thy hand had spread a scene of blessing round. If ample wealth thy ardent hopes had crown'd— That, whatsoe'er thy bounty could impart. Was given to teach the mind, and cheer the heart ; N^lected talent's drooping head to raise. And lead ycung Genius on by generous praise. 373 J)OGNeR. Yet, bard beloved ! this higher meed be thine> Faith in thy Sayiour cheer'd thy life's dedine^ — Nor by that God on whom thy hopes relied Was die sweet recompense of faith denied. He gave thee strength to smile 'midst torturing pain, And even the slightest murmur still restrain ; He cheer'd with pious hope thy dying bed ; He, on thy soul the Christian's sunshine shed; And crown'd, to prove his favour's blest increase^ A life of kindness with a death of peace." A punning epitaph by Mr. Hayley on a blacksmith at this place is recorded, but has not much point, independently of this not being a place for a jest. The best and most un- exceptionable of these which we have ever seen is on an in- dividual of the name of Strong, a carpenter, in the neighbour- hood of London. '^ Who many a sturdy oak had laid along, Fell'd by death's surer hatchet, here lies Strong. Posts oft he made, yet ne'er a place could get*. And lived by railing, though he was no witf: Old saws he had, although no antiquarian, And stiles corrected, yet was no grammarian." Bognor is situated in the parish of South Berstead, and con- tains about 1500 inhabitants. At the entrance^ several neat villas excite rather high expectations, but the town itself is scattered * « Between you and I and the post" (though we never made one ; they are not to be made in these times), gentle reader, we can sincerely S3rmpatliise with the worthy carpenter in this predicament. f What a great number of editors of periodicals are exactly in the same situation with the meritorious artificer ! The misfortune is that they do not recognise this to be the case : they mistake the acerbity which they really do possess (and in which they are sadljr encouraged by the once better-tempered public of John BulPs island, who have now a craving appetite for hitters^) for genuine and praiseworthy wit: whereas Mr. Strong did not conceive his humble wooden erections to be either rose-wood or cedar. — We have encountered accidentally a certain remarkably ill-natured penny publication, styled, though it is no credit to name it, " Figaro in London,'* in which the editor, after blaming some dramatic error, asserts that ** if it be not speedily remedied, our critical avalanche must descend on their heads ! !** Mercy upon the shivering and to-be-shivered sufferers ! " Threatened folks live long,*' to be sure, but their dread of the terrific impending punishment must be truly pitiable. The whole affair calls to mind the prime minister's character of a rebellion in the Isle of Man, — " A tempest in a tea-pot." 374 COAST OF SUSSEX. and irregularly built. It owed its rise, about the year 1790, to a Sir John Hotham, a merchant of London^ who erected the principal buildings. There are three or four good inns, and some respectable ranges of building, also baths, &c., and it may, doubtless, have its advantages to those who prefer quiet, and especially family parties. The oblong space open to the sea, somewhat ridiculously dignified with the appellation of '^ the Steyne,'' is neat and cheerful ; here is the chapel of ease, a spacious cemented structure, and a small market Binstead's library, opposite the sea, b pleasant, and has a lawn in front : beyond, towards the east, is a small battery ; another library, farther inland, bears the title of having been patronised by the Princess Augusta. A physician and three surgeons are re- sident in Bognor. A few miles to the west of Bognor is the promontory and church of Sels^a, forming the opposite extremity of the spacious bay, which Beachey Head terminates to the east. This was the place where Christianity was first preached to the South Saxons by Wilfrid, an exiled bishop of Lindisfam, to whom this peninsula was given by King iEdelwalch about the year 680, when he immediately liberated 250 persons then in a state of slavery*. He was confirmed in the possession of this tract, containing 5000 acres, by the conqueror of MdeU walch, Ceadwalla, who afterwards, struck with remorse for his wars and bloodshed, made a pilgrimage to Rome, where be received baptism, and died, having first laid the foundation of and endowed the Buhoprick of SeUtey, At this place the see continued uninterrupted till the year 1081, when William the Conqueror, in accordance with his plan in other places, on the advice of an Ecclesiastical Council, presided over by Lan- franc, Archbishop of Canterbury, removed it from thb village to the town of Chichester. * Not 90 dreadfiil, it is to be boped» as that of the truly ruthless factory masterS} in the north of England, compared with whose connived at, if not direct tyranny (now it is to be hoped on the eve of abolition), aU West Indian talea sink into InHignificance. fiOGNOR. 375 Bognor Rocks are only conspicuous at low-water, extending outwards two miles in lengthy and a quarter of a mile in width: the shore is gradually encroached upon by the sea, and is consequently protected by groins. Nine miles off this place are the Oar or Ore rocks, where, as a preventive against accidents which have before occurred, a vessel is kept moored, which in the daytime hoists a red flag, and at night hangs oiit large lanterns as a guide and warning to approaching mariners. The sea promenade at Bognor is extensive, but not well kept up ; it affords great facilities for Ashing, and at Selsea are caught the best lobsters on this part of the coast. The view of the ocean at Bognor is singular ; it is so completely shut in by projections of land a few miles to the east and west, that it might be taken for a private lake belonging solely to the inhabitants of this vicinity. Near Bognor were discovered, in 1811, the spacious tessel- lated pavements of a magnificent Roman palace. A portion of these, representing the Rape of Ganymede, is finely engraved and coloured in Dallaway and Cartwrighf s History of the Rape of Arundel. ARUNDEL. GENERAL APPEARANCE. The most commanding approach to Arundel is on the side of Worthing, though the op[xisite view is also richly wooded* A strong impression of ancient, feudal, and ancestral gran- deur is presented by the stately front of the castle^ placed on a terrace on the right, with the old central keep towering high above it, and the whole enveloped in ancient trees, and contrasted in front by the river of scanty breadth but impe- tuous flow, the bridge and the lower part of the town ; whilst the tower, low spire, and flag-staff of the church appear on the summit of the principal and hilly street of the place. HISTORY OF THE CASTLE AND TOWN. The earliest conjectural accounts, in which a tendency to fabulous exaggeration may be pardoned, ascribe the name of this place to ^* Hirondelle,^^ a swallow, which is still the arms of the town, though the origin of the bearing is not known. Others assert that the celebrated Bevis of Hampton (south), the conqueror of the giant Ascapart, and hero of ancient romances, who is supposed to have been keeper of the castle here, had a favourite horse, which for its swiftness he not only termed Hirondelki or Orundeky in Norman French, but also called the demesne after its name. These are theoretical trifles, though their very existence is interesting, carrying us back, if in fancy alone, to the region of romance and enchants ment. King Alfred left ErundeU to his brother Athelm. By the Conqueror it was given to Roger de Mount-Gromeri, Earl of Alenfon, who had been one of his best captains in the final engagement. Subsequently, through various muta- tions, it was in the hands of Adeliza, Queen of Henry I., and by her marriage, when a widow, it passed into the ARUNDEL. 377 family of Albini, afterwards into those of Fitzalan and Maltravers, finally into the Mowbray^'s, by marriage with an heiress. Philip de Mowbray, in the reign of Elizabeth, was summoned as Earl of Arundel, hy tenure of the castle only. The family of Howard are descended from a judge of the Common Pleas, in the reign of Edward I.; a conjec- tural Saxon origin has also been assigned to them at an early epoch. The castle was certainly in existence before the Conquest. It was besieged in 1102 by Henry I., but capitulated on the understanding that Robert de Belesine should retire to Normandy. In 1139, the Empress Maud or Matilda, having landed at Littlehampton, repaired to Arundel Castle, and was received by Queen Adeliza, who was' not unfavourable to her views. Stephen attacked the castle, but yielding to the remonstrances of Adeliza, who pleaded the rights of hospitality, suffered the Empress to withdraw to Bristol. King Edward I. was entertained here as a guest In 1397 it was the scene of a confederation against Richard II , but their proceedings being betrayed to the monarch by the EarFs son-in-law, he was attainted and beheaded. On the death of the Duke of Norfolk, in 157/^, whose name is intermingled with the destiny of the unfortunate Queen of Scots, perhaps guilty to a certain degree, but certainly miserably ill-used by her unfeminine and despotic sister, Elizabeth, his son continued Earl of Arundel by patent, but he also, on suspicion of treasonable practices, was attainted and executed in the year 1585; when an inventory of the furniture of the castle, which included very splendid hangings of silk and gold, was taken for Lord Burleigh, and is copied in the diffusive account of Mr. Dallaway, to which we must refer our readers for minute particulars of this neighbourhood. The family were restored by James I., and in 1644, the castle was besieged and taken by capitulation, but plundered by the Parliamen- tary forces, the celebrated Chillingworth lending his skill to the defence, which lasted for seventeen days. The strength of the walls and outworks did not, however, answer the S78 COAST OF tUBBEX. general expectation. From this period tiU the repair hy the late Duke of Norfolk, the castle remained in an imper- fect state, and used only as an occasional readenoe. It b entirely beyond our power and limits to enter here into an account of the celebrated family of the Mowbrays, Dukes of Norfolk, who are, to some extent, known to all who are familiar with the History of England, or the poetically attired chronicles of Shakspeare. We might dwell long on the inter- esting fortunes of the Earl of Surrey, one of the first improvers of the musical ry thm of England ; but we could say nothinj^ which has not been often told of the almost hopeless, yet im- passioned lover of the fair, though not, in comparison with his merits, worthy, Geraldine. SONNET IN PRAISE OF THE FAIE GEEALDINE. BY HENRY HOWARD, EARL OF SURREY. \_About 1540.J From Tuscan^ came my lady's worthy raoe^ Fair Florence was sometime her ancient seat ; The Western Ide, whose pleasant shore doth £ioe Wild Camber's difis^ did give her livdy heat Fostered she was, with milk of Irish breast: Her sire, an earl ; her dame, of prince's blood; From tender yesrs, in Britain she doth rest. With Kin^s child, * where she tasteth costly food. Honsdon did first present her to mine eyn ; Blight is her hue^ and Geraldine she hi^t Hampton me taught to wish her first for mine^ And Windsor^ alas ! doth chase me from her sight Her beauty of kind, t her yirtne finom above ; Happy is he that can obtain her love! We have been informed that there is still an Earl of Surrey, who is not without the gallant, chivalrous, and generous spirit of his ancestors ; but who, more fortunate than his illustrious namesake, has obtained the hand of the Geraldine who was the object of his affections. * Maid of honour to the Princess Mary. t Of consanguinity! t. e. derived from ber ancestors. AAUNDEL. 879 TOWN. Arundel had a grant for a fair soon after the year 1200, which was extended to three by Edward I., and has returned two members to parliament since his reign, losing one in the present year. It has a market every Thursday, and a cattle market every alternate Tuesday. The charter under which the corporation of a mayor and twelve burgesses subsists bears date 1586. They are possessed of two silver gilt maces. The town was formerly surrounded by walls: in 13S9f half of it was consumed by fire, when the inhabitants were excused from taxes for that year. After the parliamentary siege, an allowance was made to some individuals who were favoured by the commissioners. The College adjoining the diurch was founded by Bobert, Earl of Arundel, in 1887, pursuant to the will of his father ; dissolved at the Reformation, but granted by patent to the founder's family. Its present dilapidated state is partly owing to the devastations of the parliamentary soldiers^ There was also the hospital of Maison Dieu, or of the Holy Trinity, very liberally endowed for SO poor men and a master, who was to be an ecclesiastic. This also was dissolved at the Reformation, and the possessions, which were nearly <£200 per annum, then a splendid endowment, re-granted by patent (but for which it would seem probable that something had been paid to the king, who was not destitute of avarice) to the heirs of the founder ; this, also, was dilapidated by Sir William Waller^s soldiers, who occupied it during the siege. The Bridge was founded by Queen Adeliza, in the twelfth century, built of wood, and a causeway (Calcetum) erected, of a mile in length, with a Priory, ** De Caketo^* at the end ; the monks receiving the tolls kept the bridge in good order. It was several times repaired in the sixteeDth and seventeenth cei^turies, and, in 174S^ was handsomely rebuilt of stone by the Hon, Jamef Lumley, representative for the borough. 380 COAST OF SUSSEX. DESCRIPTION. Arundel is a tolerably neat town, of no great apparent extent, enlivened by its river, which is the means of considerable traffic in coals and com between London and the Meditenn- nean. Ships of 150 tons, drawing 16 feet water, can come up as far as the bridge ; and a trade is carried on still further up, by means of a canal which connects the Arun with the Thames. The name of this river instantaneously recalls the sweet and amiable poet, who sang on its banks; — ^* — Wild Arun too has heard thy strain. And echo on my native plain. Been soothed by pity's lute." Tiie town has several good inns, the principal of which is the Norfolk Arms, which has a good assembly-room ; a small theatre, library, &c. &c. The population in 1831 was 2803. At the upper end of the town and nearly opposite the castle- gate is the Church, a spacious, solid, and handsome edifice, cruciform, with a low but well-built tower in the centre, whose obtuse leaden spire is painted white, and has a flagstaff on its apex as a guide to vessels at sea. Including the large sepul- chral chapel of the Norfolk family at the east end, formerly united to the college, it is the largest church in the county^ measuring upwards of 190 feet in length. Its architecture is principally that of the 14th century, with insertions of the 15th. The spacious nave is about 90 feet by 60, and has quatrefoils in circles for its clerestory windows. The tower is about 26 feet square, and contains a gallery supporting the fine and beautiful organ, which, with its choir organ in front, is csti« mated to be worth J? 1200, and was purchased by subscription. This variety of position is seen in Ludlow church, Salop, and a few others not collegiate ; it is here very effective, as it leaves the fine length of the nave unencumbered. Irish oak is the almost indestructible material of the roof. The whole of the body is very neatly fitted up ; at the bac)c of the corporation seat is a small painting on glass of the town arms, and at the south- cast corner a rich stone tabernacled pulpit, now disused for that AKUNDEL. 381 purpose. In the tower are six bells, and a small musical clock-bell hangs on the outside. The altar and communion-table are on the east side of the south transept ; this is however not the fault of the Duke of Norfolk, as the altar was placed here before the Reformation. On one of its sides is a tablet for a young child of the present Rector : " Innocens et perbeatus, more florum deddi ; Quid flea sepultum^ viator? flente sum fdidor." Underneath is inscribed, '* Suffer little children," &c. &c. Consanguinei or amicii might have been more applicable; the tears of the traveller for one so young, whom he had never seen, could not be expected. We have now to speak of the Norfolk chapel at the east end, which forms a nave and north aisle, 75 feet in length, divided by three fine arches, and exhibiting some, beautiful windows of the 14th and 15th centuries, with a grand one of seven divi- sions at the east end. Nothing has astonished, and must still astonish, the visitor more than . to see the miserable state of neglect and decay in which this fine building and its rich monuments have long remained ; it is the more incomprehensible, as there is no want of liberality in all the arrangements respecting the castle. We understood however that there was at length some expectation of repairs being undertaken, as the monument for the brother of the present Duke, which was executed at Rome, remains in packing-cases on the floor. But a great deal of the mischief is irretrievable. The fine carved and gilt oak ceiling fell down for want of repairs, and is now replaced by a common boarded one ; and as the windows have been long almost destitute of glass, all the ornaments of the interior have suffered grievous injury. Some of the monu- ments are grand and interesting, exhibiting rich altar-tombs with minute ornaments, and lofty canopied erections with arches and pillars of the fanciful style which prevailed at the first introduction of Italian sculptures, here in one or two instances almost approaching to the airiness of the Oriental. The churchyard is walled round in a lofty and neat style. At 882 COAST OP SUSSEX. its south-east angle are various buildiugs of the old odl^fe ; a school with.turrets; and a small Roman Catholic cIiapeL CASTLE. The total sum expended by the late munificent Duke of Norfolk on the new buildings was, as we understand, not less than ^600,000. A part, nearly amounting we believe to half of this sum, originated in the following curious circumstance : certain rents had been long in arrear, which were by original deed to be applied to the repairs of Arundel castle; and the tenants, rather doggedly certainly, refused to pay them ufikaa they were applied to this precise purpose. The Duke there- upon not only fulfilled the condition, but added that liberal expenditure which has produced so splendid an effects The Great Court is only built on three sides, the fourth rising on an ascent to the keep and the beautiful flower and fruit garden beyond it enclosed within the walls. A terrace runs round the south and east sides ; the former, which has a beautiful view over the river and surrounding country, is represented in our Vignette. The entrance tower, which has bold arches and machicol- lations, was intended to have had elegant bartisan turrets hanging round its corner towers; unfortunately it has not been finished, but roofed in, in a very poor style. The same remark applies^ as we understand, ta the interior of a Catholic chapel of the Tudor aera at the right of the entrance, which has externally much ornamental tracery. The east and south sides are very handsome ; the former exhibits a large and bold relief in artificial stone of ^* Alfred instituting the Trial by Jury,*' with a Saxon legend explaining the purport : beneath are four rich early Norman arches. In the upper part of this side is the handsome library, externally decorated with carved windows, an oriel, machioollations, open parapet, curiously-wrought corbels, and round turrets. The eastern side has the principal entrance, — a deep and grand Norman arch, above which are three tiers of windows, flanked by turrets, and two statues, in niches, of Liberty and Hospi- ARUNDEL. S83 talitj ; the latter, by the way, is not very intelli^ble. To enter into a description of the various ornaments of this grand front would far exceed our limits. The lofty and commanding keep is a spacious round tower, between 60 and 70 feet in diameter, approached by an inclined plane from one of the ancient towers of the base-court. The remains of antiquity in this part of the building will please and detain the attention of the visitor ; within its area are one or two subterranean excavations, not yet fully explored ; and in a neighbouring tower is a well of great diameter, formerly 300 feet deep, but now partly filled up, the appearance of which is described as awful and terrific From the keep is a beautiful view south-east and west; whilst the prospect of the very pretty garden within the walls, devoted both to flowers and fruit, was to us by no means less pleasing. We never felt the expression of the Latin term apricus more vividly than whilst looking at this scene ; and we thought that either here or on the terrace a person must be either leaden-spirited or irretrievably unhappy, who did not, for the time at least, experience a soothing influence in the view from Arundel Castle. The curious Australian owls kept within the circuit of this tower are not the least of the novelties which will detain the visitor's attention, who could not imagine, till he had seen them, that this species of bird was found in such size and beauty. They are larger than a turkey, measuring four feet across their wings when expanded, and their size, and brilliancy of their " visual orbs,^ are of the most striking character. They are not remarkably tame. An amusing anecdote is related regarding one of the finest Ow]esseSf in the time of the late Duke of Norfolk, which was called, by a great misnomer certainly, ^^Lord Thurlow.^ It happened that the celebrated chancellor of that name was dangerously ill, and much political anticipation was thereby occasioned. One of the attendants advanced hastily, and out of breath, to the Duke, early in the morning, — ^^ Please your Grace, Lord Thurlow '^ " Well," said the Duke, « what's the news — is he better or worse ? '* — " Please your Grace "— 384 COAST OF SUSSEX. answered the man — ^^Just laid an egg! ''— quite unconscious of the amazement he should excite by his mal a propos reply. INTERIOR. VESTIBULE. A very handsome double stone staircase, having polished brass railings with splendid mahogany architraves, leads under a vaulted and fretted roof into the GALLERY, which is 195 feet long and \^ feet broad, floored with oak, with doors, window cases and linings, and wainscottings, as all the other rooms, of ihejinest polished maJiogany more than an inch in thickness. No decoration of this castle has a more novel and startling effect than this ; to see such a costly wood used with the most lavish profusion in every part of the rooms, some of which have even carved ceilings of the same material. The late Duke purchased a large ship-load of this valuable wood, which turned out to be some of the finest ever imported into England. In this gallery are some curious old gilt chairs, lined with worked velvet emblazoned with armorial bearings. BARONS' HALL, 115 feet in length and 35 in width, ceiled with chestnut, has never been completed, and its walls are temporarily covered with red cloth. At the end is a large and magnificent window of stained glass, representing the signing of Magna Charta, of excellent com- position, and correct historical costumes and accompaniments. Fitz waiter, the principal Baron, is a likeness of the late Duke of Norfolk. In the side windows are also whole length armed figures, painted in brilliant colours, relieved by fine perspective. This room was opened in the year 1815, with a magnificent entertainment of ancient splendour to upwards of 300 persons*. • " From the sublime to the ridiculous there is but a step." Mr. C. Wright, author of a ** History of Anmdel," and " The Brighton Ambulator,'* declares that " it was a feast of which the Gods might have partaken, and been satisfied ! ** What a cruel pity then that they were not invited to " take their fill ! " Mes- sieurs Jupiter, Apollo, &c. Mesdames Juno and Venus, and all the rest of them. Provided always, that they should be dressed decorously, after the court fashion of the earth ; and that if Bacchus was noisy, Jupiter should sepd him down ftairs. ARUNDiL. 385 The chimney-piece is of fine statuary marble, bearing the head of Neptune, and various marine emblems. Some ancient pieces of armour are also kept here, one of which is said to have been the identical sword of Bevis. THE DRAWING ROOM, 54 feet by S8, is hung with crimson velvet, edged with gold mouldings, has a fine white marble chimney-piece, and some handsome pier-glasses. The numerous paintings are principally family portraits, among which is a fine one of the celebrated Earl of Surrey ; but at the east end is an historical painting, 10 feet, representing the Earl of the time of Henry VII. de- fending himself before that monarch, for having taken the part of Richard III. The countenances of both the king and the warrior are very fine, and the Princess Elizabeth, in the back ground, who holds the red rose in her hand, is a lovely and interesting figure. DINING-ROOM, 45 feet by S4. A very handsome painted window, ^ feet by 1 0, decorates the end of this apartment, representing an entertainment given by Solomon to the Queen of Sheba, with many auxiliary figures. The countenance of the former is a portrait of the late Duke of Norfolk, and that of the Queen, of Lady Frances Fitzroy, his wife ; the latter figure has an elegant effect, but the precise expression which the painter has chosen to give to the Duke is by no means suited to Solomon ; it is too Baccha- nalian. On each side, at this end of the room, is an oblong window, of plate-glass, designed to assist the effect of the larger: in their centres are small transparencies of painted glass, the left representing the Mercy Seat in the Tabernacle ; and the right, the interior of the Tabernacle. There are, also, in this room two fresco paintings, by IjC Bruriy imitating sculpture with the most astonishing success, almost inducing, at a little distance, a doubt of the real execution, — Adam and Eve, with the serpent, in Paradise, and the Four Seasons. At the opposite extremity to the painted window is a carved gal- lery for music. c c S86 COAST OF SUSSEX. PRINCE REGENTS BED-ROOM is hung with magnificent cut velvet, i. e. flowers of red and green, &c. in velvet, raised on a ground of white satin ; with gold mouldings and other ornaments : the bed has fine reeded pillars, and a rich gothic canopy. EARL MARSHAL'S BED-ROOM has also splendid furniture, and a bedstead of nearly equal beauty, with curtains of crimson damask silk ; some curiously worked chairs ; a rich India Cabinet, and a fine marble ehim- ney-piece, said to represent Seneca holding the plough: — Surely this is a mistake: we never heard of that philosopher's agricultural talents. THE BREAKFAST ROOM has windows of plate-glass, commanding a fine view over the river. It contains some fine portraits, including one of Oliver Cromwell, by Rubens ; and a likeness of Cardinal Howard, almoner to Catherine, Queen of Charles II., who died at Rome in 1694, leaving an estimable character for moderation and benevolence. There are also two fine paintings by Hogarth, a view of the old castle, and a design in Covent-garden Mar- ket, exhibiting the painter's fancy and humour. Our limits will not allow us to particularize many smaller elegant apartments adorned with paintings and rich furniture. In one of the rooms is a bed, said to have been used by the Empress Maud, which, amidst modern additions and repairs, contains a small portion of the original. THE LIBRARY, 120 feet by 24. The whole of the walls, galleries, pillars, and fan-tracery ceiling of this noble room are composed of the richest maho- gany, wrought in the most exquisite style of architectural carving, and ornaments of fruit and flowers ; the floor alone is of oak, and the linings of some of the closets of cedar. The taiU ensemble is magnificent, exhibiting in costly wood, carvings similar to the finest specimens in the cathedrals, or in Henry Vllth's chapel. Two or three stately white marble chimney- ARUNDEL. 387 pieees are decorated with noble Termini, representing heads of Homer, Sophocles, &c. We must leave this simple descrip- tion to be extended by the fancy of the reader: were we to enter into details, we should only weaken its effect ARUNDEL MABBLEa When briefly alluding to the general military and political renown of this family, we should have singled out one in- dividual eminently distinguished for his taste in the fine arts and classical antiquities, through whose munificent and enter- prising spirit the Arundelian marbles, a far more valuable collection than Lord Elgin^s, were brought from Samos, and in addition to affording interesting specimens of ancient sculpture, have been of the very highest importance in settling the canons of Greek chronology. This earl was ambassador to the im- perial diet for the election of an Emperor of the Romans in 1636 ; when, by his generous spirit, and his avidity for collect- ing objects of curiosity, he is said to have expended 90,000/., then a much more considerable sum than at present, in the course of nine months. At the rebellion, his collection was removed to Antwerp : having been, after his death, placed at Norfolk House, in the Strand, some part was accidentally damaged by the fall of a wall, and the principal portion of the remainder coming into the possession of the Earl of Pomfret, was, by his countess, presented to the University of Oxford. In addition to his splendid patronage of art, and enter- prising travels, this earl was the friend and encourager of Sir Robert Cotton, Sir Henry Spelman, Camden, and other cha- racters of worth and* learning. The arms of the Duke of Norfolk, hereditary Earl Marshal, Earl of Arundel, Surrey, &c. &c. &c., premier Duke, Baron, and Earl of England, are divided into four grand quarters : — Howard ; Brotherton, Earl of Norfolk; Warren, Earl of Sur- rey ; Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk. The former has an aug. mentation granted after the victory of Flodden. Crests. — Or on a chapeau gtilesy turned-up ermine^ n Lion c c 2 888 COAST OF SUSSEX. Statani guardant, oTj gorged with a ducal coronet, argent. This was the crest of Thomas Brotherton, fifth son of £d- ward I. Another, that of Arundel, is, on a wreath, a Mount verty surmounted by a Horse passant, argent, holding in his mouth a slip of oak, fructed proper. Supporters.— On the dexter side, a Lion, on the sinister, a Horse, both argent, the latter holding a slip of oak, as before. Motto: — ** SOLA VIRTUS invicta/' The superficies of the site of the castle is 950 feet by 250, enclosing five acres and a half ; but it is said to have, in remote times, included upwards of a mile. The Park *^* is seven miles in circuit, and contains a va- riety of ornamental buildings, all in the gothic or castellated style : it is also beautifully wooded, and has a herd of one thousand deer. The road from Arundel to Chichester contains no object of interest. At least we trust the reader will not meet with the variety we did, which was near costing us a life, and depriv> ing the world of this (valuable) book. « Illc et nefaato te 'Junxit; die T Let him beware of the cupidity and want of principle of those who let out to the traveller dilapidated horses. By the intervention of such an occurrence, our notices of this western extremity were much abridged, especially that of Chichester. Yet the memoranda of Goodwood, though hastily written whilst suffering illness, were accompanied by a feeling of gratification, the invariable result of elegance and symmetry, which dulled the sense of pain. CHICHESTER. HISTORY. Chichester is supposed, on good authority, to have been the ancient Regnumy founded by Cogi, a British chief, who, hav- ing assisted the Romans in repelling the Dobuni, added, like Caius Marcius, an adjunct to his name, and termed himself Cogi-dubuntis. A stone tablet was discovered in the year 17^3, bearing the following inscription, which was afterwards removed to Goodwood, and placed in a small temple erected to receive it, with a bust of Cogidubunus on its summit : ^ NEPTUKO BT Jf INBRViB TEXPLUM PRO BAIiUTB DOMUS DIYINiB EX AUCTORTTATE IMF. TI. CLAUD. BT OOOIDUBNI RBOI8 LEGAL, IN BRIT. COLLEGIUM FABROR *t ET QUI IN EO BT SA0RI9 VBL HONORATI SUNT DE 8U0 DEBICAYERUNT DONANTB AEBAM FUDENTB FUDENTINI FIL." '^ As to the Roman settlement at Chichester^ I am dear that it must be the earliest, the first or second in Britain : the inscription is undoubtedly the oldest inscription that has been discovered in Great Britain, die inter« nal marks carry it very high. The dedication of this temple to Neptune, * ob salutem Dom4s Divince,' must be, most probably, for Claudius's safe return to Rome, for we hear of no other Emperor tiU long after. It agrees very weD with the remarkable inscription in the Barbarini palace at * ** Collegium Fabrorum was as ancient at Rome as the reign of Numa PompDius. It included all worinnen concerned in any kind of building* Fabri, Ferrari!, Tignarii> Materiarii, Navales, &«.** — DaSaway. S90 COAST OF SU8S£X. Romey with the accounts given by Tadtus and SoetoniuB, that the Isle of White (sic) was sabdued in Clandius's ttme, and consequently this part of our island. It was erected certainly in Cogidubnus's lifetime; but he lived till Tacitus was in Britain with his unde Agricok^ between anno 70 and 85. Tadtus's account implies^ that Cogidubnus had been some years in that office^ because he says, ' Ad nostram usque ctatem fidissi- mus.' From A.D. 43 to 70 is but S7 years, if so, 80, but 37, whidi is but reasonable allowance, and consequently fixes this marble to the age of Claudius." *' Mr. Gale's account in Horseleff, oonceming the Pudens of this inscrip- tion, and the Claudia of Martial, are all very probable. And my father has vindicated the use of Domus Divinie, from the idle exceptions of Mr. Ward."— Willmgdon, April 3, 1771.— Letter from £dw. Clarke to Sir W. B.—BurreU MSS. A few of the words, or portions of words, in this inscription, as we have printed it, are conjectural, and some antiquaries have supplied them rather differently. Full discussions on this subject are contained in No. S79 of the Philosophical Transactions, and Stukely'*s Itinerary, at Plate XLIX. Claudius had been honoured with a triumph at Rome, for having crossed the sea (no great naval exploit, certainly,) in a successful expedition from Gaul to Britain. ^' A.D. 46. Tl^ year Claudius, the second of the Roman emperors who invaded Britain, took the greater part of the island into his power, and added the Orkneys to the dominion of the Romans. This was in the fourth year of his reign. And in the same year happened the great famine in Syria which Luke mentions in the book called The Acts of the Apostles. After Claudius, Nero succeeded to the empire, who almost lost the island, Britain, through his incapacity ." — Saxon Chronicle. A second tablet of the same sera was discovered about twenty years since : "nkroni CLAUDIO DIVI CLAUnn AUG. F. GERM AKIOI CiES. KEPOn n. CMB AUe. PBONEPOTI DIV. AUG. ABNEPOTI OflSARI AUG. OERJl. B.R.P. IV. IMP. V. 00& IV. 80LVI CVnAVIT VOTVM MERITO." CHICH£8TEE, 391 And a third in 18S8, a votive altar, which is abo in the pos- session of the Duke of Richmond : * osKio B. fsuo) tvouvLm AMMINI FUi. D. P. ' fdedicavit pub/ice. J LucuUus was AgricoIa''s lieutenant, and succeeded to the chief command after his death. The principality of the Regni, including Sussex and Kent, was in the family of Cogidubnus till the time of Lucius, one of the generally supposed founders of Christianity in Britain, and the last of its native princes, A. D. 165. The modem name of Chichester is derived from Cissa, son of iElIa, who, succeeding his father, made it the place of his abode — hence called Cissct^ceastre* He died in 577, aged 117 ; and some have thought it probable that he was buried at Ciss- bun/j a favourite retreat ; but this idea is merely conjectural. '^ A.D. 477. This year came Ella to Britain, widi his three sons, Cy- men, and Wlenking, and Cissa, in three ships ; landing at a place that is called Gymensbore *. There they slew many of the Welsh (Britifih) ; and some in flight they drove into the wood that is called AndredVley." '' A.D. 485. This year £Ua fought with the Welsh (British) nigh Me- credVBumsted ." '' A.D. 490. This year £Ua and Cissa besi^ied the dty of Andred, and slew all that were dierein ; nor was one Briton left there afterwards."— Saxon Chronicie^ Chichester remained unnoticed and of moderate consequence till the removal of the see from Selsea by William the Con- queror: the town was bestowed on Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Alen^on and Shrewsbury and Arundel, who erected a castle joined to the ramparts of the city, and four gates, and gave the south-west quarter for the site of the cathedral and residence of the clergy. The possessions of Hugh de Belesme, one of his sons, were confiscated by Henry I., on account of his having sided with the rebellious Robert, and Chichester was given with Arundel to his queen Adeliza, and passed by her marriage to William de Albini, afterwards created, by the Empress Maud, Earl of Chichester and Arundel. The castle • Supposed to be West Wittering, near Selsey and Chichester. 392 COAST OF SU88£X. was ordered to be demolished by King John, but the sentence was not carried into effect till the iSrst year of Henry III., 1S16. A Franciscan convent was founded on its site, which, at the dissolution, was granted to the corporation of the city, and the property has lately been purchased by the Duke of Bichmond. Great part of the dty with the cathedral was destroyed by jSre in the years 1114 and 1186. Various successive charters were granted by different monarchs, commencing with Stephen and ending with James II. Chichester was occupied by the royalists under Sir Edward Ford, sheriff of the county, in 164& ; besieged by Sir William Waller, and taken after eight days' siege in the month of December. It is believed that the inhabitants made a com- promise with the soldiers of the amount of one month's pay to prevent their being plundered; but the cathedral and all its ad- juncts were severely devastated, and the houses of the recorder and some of the inhabitants, who were sent prisoners to London, demolished. Great injury was sustained in the city by the military operations, several houses being destroyed, with the churches of St. Bartholomew and St. Pancras ; the north-west tower of the cathedral was also battered down, and has not since been rebuilt. In 1645 the city was disgarrisoned by order of the parliamentary government, and the ordnance re- move to the castle of Arundel. DESCRIPTION. The appearance of Chichester, at a little distance, is pleasing; it is nearly embosomed in elm trees, which follow the course of the ancient walls for the space of a mile and three quarters, above which the lofty and tapering spire of the cathedral ap- pears as if rising into the clouds. The body of the town consists of four streets, meeting at the large and handsome octagonal cross ; these are decently built, well paved, and ex- cellently lighted, and the ^ist street, especially, has an air of ancient and solid respectability. The population in 1831 was 8270, CHICHESTER. 393 CATHEDRAL. This edifice is indubitably one of the least considerable and handsome cathedrals in England. Its principal objects of cu- riosity are its elegant spire, the^re aisles of its nave, and the paintings in the south transept. The original church was begun by Bishop Ralph in 1091, but nearly destroyed, whilst yet un- finished, by a fire in 1114; rebuilt by the aid of pecuniary assistance from Henry I., but a second time extensively in- jured by iSre in 1186. It was then restored by Bishop Sefirid, who rebuilt the parts which had been consumed, and added an upper triforium or gallery to the clerestory of the nave, which remained uninjured, but, as seen at the present day, is so exceedingly clumsy, that it is to be regretted it had not been destroyed; the lower part is in better style, and the new gallery lighter and approaching to the Grothic, The parts of the church, east of the central tower, are supposed to have been erected in the thirteenth and beginning of the fourteenth century, of which era also is the spire, and the north-west bell-tower: the spire has been sometimes conjectured, from a degree of similarity in appearance, to have been erected by the same artist as that of Salisbury. The three sides of cloisters and several of the windows are of later date. EXTERNAL APPEARANCE AND DIMENSIONS. The actual length from east to west, exclusive of the Lady Chapel, now the library, is 325 feet, but the latter, including its vestibule, is 79, making a total of 404. The nave is 151 feet from west to east, tower, 34, choir, 100, and presbytery, 40. The transept is 199 feet by 34: width of the nave, — centre aisle, 26 feet) two original side aisles, 1^ feet each, two outer ones, 14 do.; total, 78* : height of centre aisle, 61^; of * Mr. Dallaway sums up the width thus; nave, 97 feet; choir, 60; which has been copied in a Chidiester Guide : it is scarcely necessary to add that if the items are right, the sum is in both cases decidedly wrong. We beg to add that we have the highest respect for Mr. DaUaMray's work in general, but this is one of the most extraordinary errors we ever witnessed, and it was quite by accident that we thought of examining it. S94f COAST OF sassKx. the choir, 59 ; breadth, with its two aisles, 50 ; height of the spire, to the iSnial under the weathercock, 271 ; height of the south-west tower, 100 feet; of the campanile or bell* tower, 1£0 ; dimensions of the cloister, — west side, 84 feet by 141 ; south, 198 by 10 feet 4; east, 1522 feet 4 by 10 feet 3. A good north view of this cathedral is now opened by re- moving several houses; still the south-west continues to be the most picturesque, being aided both by the cloisters and the solidly handsome Norman tower remaining at this angle, which is well decorated with arches and strong buttresses, and has an degant Norman arch at the bottom of its southern face. The transepts are without aisles, but have large and rich windows of the Tudor sera: that in the south transept, inserted by Bishop Sherborne, has some resemblance to the architecture of Rouen cathedral. The windows of the outer aisles are large and neat ; those of the cl^-estory, Norman. Plain flying buttresses strengthen it from the side ables, and it has a bold parapet with very neat corbels and scnne handsome spiral pinnacles in the eastern division. The centre embattled tower has large and handsome early Gothic windows now blank, comer turrets, and others of a light character, rising at the base of the spire ; the latter is ribbed at the angles, has hand- some canopied windows at its base^ and two rich and broad bands of fretwork at different stages of its height The cloisters have spacious windows of the fifteenth century filled with muUions and tracery. About 20 feet north-west of the end of the diurch is the Campanile, a very heavy structure, which appears to much greater advantage at a small distance than when viewed closely : it is built of friable stone, and its lower part is in a dirty and neglected state. The upper story rises to an octagonal turret, guarded by flying buttresses from small turrets at the angles of the tower. It contains seven bells, not remarkably well-toned, the tenor weighing twenty* three cwt; and these are seldom used except on Sundays, a single bell in the spire steeple tolling to prayers, which has rather a dull effect. CHICHESTER. 895 INTERIOR. At the west etid of the nave is a handsome porch, with a large window in a barbarously modem and incongruous style. The view of the nave at the entrance, when the outer aisles are not seen, is heavy and unprepossessing ; the lower arches are not altogether unpleasing, but the double arches of the first gallery are very ugly; the upper trifinia, which are early Gothic, and have palm-tree capitals, an ornament introduced after the first crusade as a memorial of Palestine, are much neater, and the pointed vaulting of the roof, which springs from light pilasters running up the fai5e of the clerestory, though very plain, ia well proportioned and has neat key- stones. The prospect is terminated under the tower by s lofty, plain stone screen, with a large organ, the pipes of which, on this side, not being imitative of gold, but yellow marble, have a very dull efiect. When we proceed laterally, however, to the outer aisles, which were erected principally to contain oratories and chantries, something better meets our view, in the fine arches and elegant clustered columns of the early Gothic, though by no means equal to those of Shoreham. The choir, which includes the great tower with its lofty but plain circular arches, is 134 feet long, and displays the stalls erected by Bishop Sherborne at the beginning of the sixteenth century, profusely gilt, but punted of an unfortunately dull chocolate colour ; in front are the names of the prebendaries, and some other inscriptions in v^y fine old characters ; a neat wainscot altar screen with panels of crimson velvet terminates the east end. The choir is paved with marble, in which respect it has s great superiority over the nave ; its architecture is similar, with the exception of the omission of the outer side aisles ; its andent organ has a very full and grand tone. The presbytery, beyond the altar screen, consisting of two arches only (there are eight in the nave and three in the choir, exclusive of the tower), has rich and noble architectural features; the clustered columns below of Petworth marble, with isolated pilasters round a central shaft, and finely wrought double arches of the 996 COAST OF SUStKX. gallery above, which enclose a small representation of the Sal- vator Mundiy are entitled to unmixed praise. The want of any stained glass at this end of the church must be sensibly felt by the spectator. Below the east window commences the vestibule of the library, which has, externally, very handsome windows : a spacious vault for the Duke of Richmond's fiunily was constructed under it in the year 1 7fi0. The north transept is the parish church of St. Bartholomew the Great, or the Subdeanery ; a similar instance occurs in the south transept of Chester cathedral ; this appears internally but mediocre, and is meanly partitioned from the aisle. The south contains the tn^o large and interesting historical paintings, and the series of portraits of the kings and bishops. This, as we have before stated, is one of the principal of the few curiosities which this cathedral can boast, for which it is indebted to the munificence and skill of Robert Sherborne, one of its bishops, who had been ambassador from Henry YII. to the Pope, and brought back from Rome a refined taste, joined to a spirit of great liberality. He founded four pre- bends in this church, and greatly benefited bis diocese; he recovered rights of advowson, and annexed them ; endowed vicarages, and commuted pensions for tithes. His prindpal works in the cathedral were the new stalls, a beautiful painted ceiling to the nave, and the ornaments in this transept ; but, during twenty-two years, he expended on this church, and the reparation of three manor-houses belonging to the see, the then considerable sum of S707/. 4^. (kL : he also left a perpetual fund for the marriage of poor maidens of the city. A very short time before his death, on account of infirmity, he petitioned, and obtained leave, to resign his bishoprick ; and he died in 1536, at the great age of ninety -six years. He has a tomb and effigy in the south aisle of the nave, which was much de- faced by the parliamentary soldiers, but still retains the armo- rial bearings, and the inscription — ^* Non intres in Judicium cum servo iuo domine^ Roberto Shurbome,*^ — " Enter not into judgment, O Lord, with thy servant, Robert Shurbome.'^ The two large paintings on the west ^de are respectively CHICHESTER. S97 12 feet 8 inches by 8 feet 8 inches, and IS feet 4 by 8 feet 8. The jSrst represents the foundation of the see at Selsey by Ceadwalla, on the petition of Wilfrid. The king, attended by a train of courtiers, is coming forward on the steps of a large palace, and is met by Wilfrid, with the monks of the monastery of Selsey ; the church and the peninsula appear in the back-ground. Wilfnd holds a scroll, inscribed << 9a wrbfe Bef locu' fiafttationfe propter Beurn/' — " Give to the servants of God a place of habitation, for the sake of Grod.*^ The king points with one hand to an open illuminated book, in which is written " iffat Ulcut pelftttr'' — « be it as it is re- quested.^ The second painting represents Shurbome, at- tended by his ecclesiastics, peUtioning Henry VII. for a con- firmation of the charter granted by Ceadwalla, whilst, by an absurd anachronism, Henry VIII. is introduced as standing by him, and granting the petition. The bishop displays a scroll, inscribed ^^ Sbaiuttesfme rex> p'pter treu', tolua tttUsia^ tua^ (&itt%txm ia^ tatj^etrrale, %itnt CeMtmlla rex Jbussex lEc- (lesta Jbflesten oltm catj^etrrale coltiabft/^— <'Mo8t sacred King, for the sake of God, confirm now thy church of Chichester as a cathedral, as formerly Ceadwalla, King of Sussex, confirmed the church of Selsey as a cathedral.*" The king points, as be- fore, to a book inscribed ^^^TO atitore ij^tt xr( gtr petts (omtro.^^ — ** For the love of Jesus Christ, what you ask I grant.* In both of these paintings are many curious and elaborate accom- paniments. At the bottom of one is inscribed, within a border, SbatlCtttSSSilfeaiUS; and, under the other, Bishop Shurbome's motto — << a^ttSbua Crebtte/^ These paintings were scratched and defaced by the swords of the parliamentary soldiers, and afterwards repaired by an inferior artist ; but they are still justly considered as very fine early spedmens of painting ; the perspective of both is very good, and the colouring not only rich, but in good keeping; the figures and countenances, espe- cially in the latter, are such as would not disgrace a superior limner of the present day. 898 COAST or sussKst. •* The hktorical painting in tbe loadi tnuuept is itid to be the work ci one Benuurdiy an Italian, who came into Bng^d with Bishop Sherborne. Painting was then brought to its highest perfection in Italy, and yery pro- bably the roan might be a disciple of some of the great masters. The ^o- ture is certainly not Holbein's. I could yentnre to sfiBrm this by what 1 have seen of Holbein's work at Cowdry. He was eminent for coloiiring and expression, but had no notion of perspectiTe, and very little of eom- position. His bmdscapes are so ill-designed, that his very towers seem t» be in ambnsh, and the horsemen who besiege them are big enoo^ to nde over the walls. What this picture was for colouring and ezpreasien before it was so much defaced in the great rebellion, tfiere is no knowing; but the manner is quite different from H^Aein's ; the perspectiTe is not bwi ; the architecture excdlent; and the figures are in general wdl disposed in the picture. I should make no question but the tradition here is the true account of it"— Rer. W. CuLBxx.—BurreU MSS. The small portraits, which have a rather pleasing appearance from their being surrounded by gilt oval rims on a dark ground, exhibit, on the east side, representations of various Bishops of Chichester, some with ancient legendary inscrip- tions; and, on the other side, a very tolerable series of the kings of England, from the Conquest, above which is in- scribed — ^* Confiteantur tibi omnes Regear '^ Keda est via quce duett ad vitam.** The portraits have been regularly continued, and end with the good-humoured and benevolent countenance of George III. On the north side of this transept is the tomb of St Richard, an altar-tomb under an arcade : the three light and elegant arches in front are, properly speaking, net^/^foil, each having nine cusps ; above is tracery and a flowered parapet. There are a great number of other monuments and ancient pieces of sculpture in this cathedral, which we have not space to describe. At the west end of the middle south aisle of the nave is a fine whole-length statue of Mr. Huskisson ; and, in the same aisle« the monument of Collins, whose latter years were clouded by a degree of occasional insanity, with the un- fortunate additional circumstance of his having, after years of comparative penury, obtained a fortune when it was too late to enjoy it. Vide Johnson^s Biography. He is here represented in a calm interval, reading the New Testament, and expressing . a sentiment similar to a declaration of the learned Selden. i CHICHESTER. 399 ^ The monument, of white marble, was executed by Flaxman, and erected by subscription ; at its foot are two small figures of Love and Pity. The epitaph was the joint production of Hayley and of a Mr. Sargent, author of « The Mine.'* The description is, doubtless, exaggerated, with a similar bad taste to that which induced Mr. Hayley, and others after him, still more silly, to drag forward the sufferings of the benevolent and excellently disposed, but afflicted and hardly sane, Cowper*. '' Ye who the merits of the dead revere^ Who hold mufortiine sacred^ genios dear^ Regard this tomb -, where Collins' hapless name Solicits kindness with a doable claim. Tho' nature gave him, and tho' science taught, The fire of fancy^ and the reach of thought. Severely doom'd to penur/s extreme, He pass'd in maddoung pain, life's feverish dream ; While rays of genius only served to show The thick'niug horror, and exalt his woe. Ye walls that echoed to his frantic moan ! Guard the due record of this grateftil stone. Strangers to him, enamoured of his lays, This fond memorial to his talents raise; For this, the ashes of a bard require. Who touch'd the tenderest notes of pity's lyre; Who jdn'd pure faith to strong poetic powen. Who, in reviving reason's lucid hours. Sought on one book his troubled mind to rest. And rightly deem'd the book of God the best" A similar example of a five-aisled nave occurs in the colle- giate church of Manchester; but as that is in a bold and uniform style of the fifteenth century, it is to the dull nave of this cathedral as ** Hjrperion to a Satyr.*^ The burrowers were employed in this church in the year 18^9) and dis- covered some of the remains of the ancient bishops, which they have engraved and published ; it is, perhaps, want of a real archseological taste, but we cannot see any pleasure in this, except for those who wish to '* sup on horrors ;*" at least it is * There is a parallel, yet with diverse features, is there not? in the conduct of those who delight to ransack all the petty stores of die soured misanthrope. Lord Byron. Why not let that poor man rest in peace ? Are we never to have done with his reminiscences ? Why should the kind-hearted poet Rogers — ^for that at least he is — be made to know that he had a false friend, who proved a bitterly scurrilous enemy ? But they get money by it ! 400 COAST OF SUSSEX. falling short of the humaDity and reverence of the nations of antiquity, who respected the rights of sepulture. Some other remains were at the same time found, as rings, chalices, crosses, to the publication of which there could exist no objection. A beaudful specimen of the ancient painted ceiling of the nave has also been published ; it is added that the original was erased in 1817^ surely an act very much to be regretted. We also saw the engraving of a circular paint- ing of the thirteenth century on the wall of the chapel of the bishop^s palace (an edifice partly modernized, but neat and venerable) ; it measures two feet eight inches in diameter, and exhibits the Virgin and Child, delicately executed and richly coloured, and surrounded by a variegated border. Chichester cathedral was miserably and madly ill-used by the republican soldiers. After the restoration it was assisted by the bounty of many liberal subscribers, amongst whom were a Bishop of Winchester, 9001. ; two of Chichester, 100/. each ; Bishop of Oxford, 1001. ; Dr. Brideoke, 100/. ; Earl of Northumberland, 100/. ; William Ashbumham, Esq. cofferer to the king, 100/. ; Hugh May. Esq. 100/. ; T. Tryon, Esq. 100/.; &c. &c.,— total 1680/* The organ cost 300/. (the former one having been broken in pieces by the soldiers with their pole-axes), and is the one still in use ; the wainscot of the choir 107/., and the marble pavement 1 17/. 5s. 6(L The choral body is very slender, consisting of four vi- cars, four singing men, and six choristers only. An addition of two has lately been made to the singing men, and the same is said to be purposed for the choristers, which ought certainly to have been done first ; with this limited number, however, the service is performed in a remarkably creditable manner. The present bishop is Dr. Maltby, a gentleman of eminent learning; and the dean, Dr. Chandler, also an esteemed character. The church and churchyard contain a variety of monuments, some of them belonging to distinguished families and charac- ters, and not uninteresting. We accidentally noticed the follow- * Dallaway. CHICHESTER. 401 ing in the churchjard, which, though simple enough, has some- thing pleasing ; it is for a Miss Gatehouse, aged 13. €t O thou^ beloved beyond what words can teili Our dearest girl^ a little wlule, furewell ! " Besides the Cathedral, Chichester has great part of its ancient walls remaining, St. Mary's Hospital, a picturesque object, an ancient Town-hall, formerly a chapel, and the Cross* This spacious and beautiful octagonal structure, of the fifteenth century, stands near the centre of the town : on its summit was a heavily rich finial which has been taken down and replaced by a small cupola or lantern, neat in itself, but not Tery appropriate. The Cross was thoroughly repaired by a Duke of Richmond in 17S4. A lady gave a clock to this structure, " as an hourly memorial of her love to the city.'* The worthy benefactress did not surely count on the hourly gratitude of posterity. EMINENT NATIVE OF OHIOHEflTER. "^ Dr. WILLIAM JUXON, educated at hoadon, at Merchant-Taylor's JSdiool, and at Oxford, in St. John's College, where he became first fellow, and then master, or president. His worth in this station recommended him to his mi^esty King Charles the First to he his chaplain, in which place he had not long continued hefore his majesty rewarded his gravity, learning, and piety, with divers preferments successively, viz. the deanery of Wor- cester, the office of the derk of his migesty's closet, hlshoprick of Exeter, deanry of the king^s chapd, hlshoprick of London, a privy counsellor, and lastly, lord treasurer, whidi great office he held from 1635 to 1641, all which places he managed with the greatest satisfaction. But when the rebellion against his master came on, he found the same hard usage with his brethren the bishops, for he was put out of the Lords' House with them, and had the revenues of his hlshoprick seized, as theirs was ; yet had thia honour above them all, to attend his majesty King Charles die First in his most disconsolate condition, 'till he saw him on the scaffi>ld resign his soul to God. From that time, with a soul full of grief for his master's sufier- ings, he retired to his manor of Compton, in Gloucestershire, where he spent his time in melancholy retirement, and constant devotion, 'till the restoration of King Charles the Second, when he was, after a few months residence on his see of London, removed to the ardibishoprick of Canter- bory, to the great joy of all true churchmen. He was consecrated in King Henry the Seventh's diapel, at Westminster; but enjoy'd not that station long, for he died in his palace, at Lambeth, June 4, 1663, in the eighty- first year of his age, and being carry d to Oxford, in great pomp, July 7, D D 402 COAST OF SUSSEX. was interrM ib the cfai^ of St John's Cdl^e, to whidi he wis a grot bonefsctor, though a greater to S. Paul's Church, his cathedral^ and hu pslaoe at Lambeth, to which he gave 1000^ He was so innocent and good a man, that the enemies of the episcopal order could find nothing ill to saj of hkn, and therefoze of all the bishops was the lesst troabled by the contrary £Ktion, which wss a sign that he deserved the chaiacter oodh monlj given him, viz. that he wss a person of true primitiye sancdtj, great wisdom snd foresigjht, ognal piety and learning, admirable patience, and extensive charity, the most spostolical virtues. He haUi left no writings but a Sermon on Luke xviiL 31 ; and ss for his estate, whidi, after his benefactions, wss considerable, he gave it to his brother's son. Sir Willism Juxon, Bart, who, or his posterity, now enjoy it They have their seat at Compton aforesaid." The parish churches, of which there are six, are iini- ▼ersally small and mean ; a free chapel has a turret in imitation of the lantern of Demosthenes, and an interior pewed with American black larch, and containing an organ ; erected at an expense of 7000^ There are some schools and charities, and the celebrated Mr. Hardham, the tobacconist, left the interest of 32,282/. 15^. 9d.f S per cents., to be applied in aid of the poors* rates. The West Sussex, East Hants, and Chichester In- firm aby, maintained by subscription, had in 1880 an income of 13221. Ss. lOd. The corporation consists of a High Steward (Duke of Richmond), Mayor, Recorder, Deputy Recorder, Bailiffs, &c. Here are a Literary Society, Assembly-rooms, Theatre, with splendid scenery, presented by the late Duke of Richmond, Banks, Custom-house, &c. The market days are on Wednesday and Saturday, with a cattle market every alternate Wednesday, and there are five annual fairs. WEST DEAN, near Chichester, is the handsome Gothic seat of Lord Selsey : this nobleman also, as well as the Duke of Richmond, is very popular in the vicinity. We have not the slightest knowledge of his lordship, but having accidentally heard a high cha- racter of his benevolence, are desirous to record it. We heard HALNAXEK AND BOXGROVE. 408 that, among other acts of charity, be orders, every Christinas, three fat oxen to be killed, which, with a great quantity of winter clothing, are distributed to the poor of his neigh-^ bourhood. '' Swear, that Tberon sure has sworn. No one near him shoold be poor ; Swear, that none e'er had sndi a prosperous art, Fortane's £red gifts as freely to impart, With an unbounded hand and an ungrudging heart" Pindar. %♦ HALNAKER AND BOXGROVE. . Indisposition, as we before intimated, prevented our visiting these relics of antiquity, also, as we very much regretted, from taking a circuit of the Park at Goodwood ; we must therefore derive a concise account from the united and care- fully compared surveys of others. Bo8grave and Halnache are mentioned separately in Dooms- day Book, but each as a constituent of the honour of Arundel. In the reign of Henry I. it was given, with the valuation of twelve knights'* fees, to Robert de Haia, who married a lady of the royal blood, and passed in dowry with his daughter to Roger de St John, of Basing, one of the founders of the noble fcimily of that name, who were intimately connected with the succession to the crown during two reigns (with the curious coincidence of having included a Countess of Rich- mond), and afterwards formed the source of several peerages. May it once more be pardoned to the humble author of thia work, not from any unprofitable pride, but from reverential recollection of the departed, to state that he has the honour of ranking the highest branch of this family, St. John of Bletsoe, as intimately connected with his own immediate ancestors*. In this family Halnaker and Boxgrove continued for about * Vide Chmtncey^g ffertfbrdthire^ quoted at page 245 of this volume, or any pedigree of the St John'i. Of the family mentioned in that page was also the last grand prior of St. John of Jerusalem in England, an earl before the refonnation ; who built St. John's Gate, ClerkenweU, whidi is still in existence. They were also barons of Culmore, Ireland, temp. James L D d2 r 40l^ COAST OF SU.SSEX. 2S0ye9cn, it then passed by marriage into the family of Buigenh, and afterwards to that of Poynings, celebrated in Sussex ; subse- quently to Lord de ia Warr, and afterwards to Sir John Morley, who obtained it in the rdgn of Elizabeth, in fee farm firom the crown^ which became possessed of it by an exchange widi Lord de la Warr. We find in Dallaway that it passed, bj marriage of Mary Morley, to James, Earl of Derby, and after- wards to Sir Thomas Dyke Ackland, of whom it was pur- chased, in 1765, by the Duke of Richmond, for the sum of 48,000/. By the following abridged extract which we had previously made from the Burrell MSS., we see that in the interim it had been in fee farm to an alien party, a variation in the chain of connexion which we have no means of exr plaining. Boxgrove and Halnaker, with Eartham, West Dean^ and some otfaff p]aoa^ were let in the 8th year of WiDiam and Mary to the Duke of Leeds (in oonsideratiim of his good seryioes) for thirty-one yean, finom the death of Catherine, queen dowager, at the yearly rent of 3/. 1 8s. 4^— BurreU MSS. The Priory was founded by Robert de Haia, in the reign of Henry I., for three monks only of the Benedictine Order, as a cell to the abbey of L* Essay ^ or de ExaquiOy in Ncnrmandy; but, by the donations of Roger St. John and his sons, William and Robert, was increased to fifteen. When other alien priories were confiscated, this obtained the indulgence of being made Indigena or denizen; and at the dissolution, when it was granted to Sir Thomas West, Lord de la Warr, its annual revenues amounted to 1852. 19^. Sd, Halnaker was formerly a handsome quadrangular specimen of the Tudor era, with a turreted gateway: the great hall still remains, and has some curiously carved wainscot ; over the pantries are two half figures, bearing cups, one of wbon^ indicates, in a scroll, a courtly French invitation to the visitors, **1Ushini8 benue*' — "they are very welcome.'' Another salutes them with a very homely and ludicrously hearty English one-^ Boxgrove Priory Church is supposed to have been built by HALNARER AKD BOXGROVE. 405 William and Robert St John, in the reign of Henry the Second. It is on the same plan as New Shoreham, but on a smaller scale; a nave, three chancels, two transepts, and a central tower, and, like it, has remaining only the chancels, transepts, and tower, with a fragment of the nave ; the ruins of the nave are, however, more distinct than at the former, whilst the south transept is nearly destroyed. The tower resembles that at Broadwater, and also at the cathedral at Winchester; the north-west area is the most interesting ; the flying buttresses are plain and ineffective. The interior has some glazed tile pave* ments, a painted ceiling, stalls, and remains of chantries ; but its principal ornaments are numerous and grand sepulchral erections. Although these do not include the sepulchre of Queen Adeliza, as tradition asserts, since she was certainly interred in the conventual church of Beading, founded by her first husband, Henry I., they comprise the tombs of her daughter OUvia, and her grand-daughter, of the same name, daughter of William Albini, Earl of Arundel, and amongst the other four, which are all under arcades, is that of Philippa, wife of Thomas Lord Poynings. The armorial blazonings have been principally destroyed, but one monument retains the escutcheon of St. John. But the grand decoration of this church is the sepulchral and chantry chapel of Thomas Lord de la Warr and Cantelupe, 1BS2, on the right of the altar, which is most pro* fusely and elaborately carved, and ornamented with painting and gilding; a great proportion of its carvings is in a rich and solid style^ indicating the junction of Italian ornaments, which has always an approach to the idea of Orientality. The di- mensions are, length 14 feet, breadth 8 feet 9) and height 12 feet. Here is also the monument of Mary Morley, Coun- tess of Derby, who died in 1752, having founded, in 1741, an hospital for 12 poor women of Boxgrove, East Lavant, and Tangmere, and a school for the education and clothing of 12 poor boys and 12 poor girls of the same parishes, a number which is likely to be augmented with the increase of the reve- nues. She is represented sitting under an oak, pointing to her n 406 COAST OF SUSSEX. hospital, and giving alms to travellers. The peculation of Boxgrove, in 1831, was 773. The estate of Goodwood lies in the parishes of Boxgrove and West Hampnett ; the latter has an ancient church with Norman remains, containing a curious monument. In a field near the spot was lately found an old massy and beautiful gold ring, bearing a signet, I.H.S.^ and round its edge an in- scription—" line 17» in the Description of Brighton. We have since bden made acquainted that the disaensiona there alluded to have been remedied, and that the sea wall of the Marine Parade is going on with spirit f When we spoke so strongly against Mr. Michad KeUy, in our account of Brighton, we did not know that Miss Kelly was his niece : that ahne could make us regret having said it ; and if there were any chance of her seeing it, we would apologise to her upright spirit for any thing which might cause it annoyance. F F 434 COAST OF SUSSEX* The Chapel of Ease is a fine venerable building, erected in 1684 and 1696, at an expense of 2S0OL It is divided transversely from the entrance into two aisles, and has a mas- sively rich ceiling, and a good though small organ. The new Church, erected by Mr. Decimus Burton, but, we believe, with much restriction as to the cost, is a heavy structure. There is a School and other charitable institutions. The neighI)ourhood of Tunbridge- Wells abounds with in- teresting objects, including Brambletye House, the seat of one of Horace Smith's novels. Why is his pen now idle ? Bay- ham Abbey is an extensive and interesting ruin ; the High Rocks have in themselves and vicinity some of the milder fe». tvres of North Wales. Rusthall has the remains of beautiful gardens in a picturesque dell, and a fine bath of clear water. Tunbridge town has the tower of a Norman castle and an old church, lately enlarged: of this place was the celebrated scholar and moral essayist. Dr. Knox : Speldhurst church has these curious epitaphs on Sir Walter and Lady Ann Waller, about 1600; the former in the quaint and piquant style of the times, the latter both acrostic and retrospectively ana- grammatical :— I'd praise thy valour, bat Mara 'gins to frown ; He fean when Sol's aloft that Man moat down. I'd praise thy form, bat Venoa cries amain. Sir Walter Waller will my Adon stain. I'd praise thy learning, but Minerya cries,— Then Athens' fame must creep when Waller flies. Aasbt us, Eng^d, in our doleful aong. When such limbs flEide thy flourish lasts not long ; Earth has his earth, which doth his corpse inroU ; Angds sing requiems to his blessed soul. A 11 worthy eyes read this, that hither comev N ever decaying yirtae fllk this tomb ; N ever enough to be lamented here, A a bng as womankind are worth a tear. W ithin this weeping stone lies lady Waller, A 11 that will know her more, a saint will call her ; L ife so directed her whilst living here^ L evell'd so straight to God, in love and fear ; £ ven so good, that turn her name and see, R eady to crown that life a lawrel tree. • ^- i^i i m TUKBRIDGE WELLS. 485 • ^^ Hever Castle was the residence of Sir Thomas, father of Anne BuUen ; great part of it still remains in good preserva- tion, solid but heavy, and is used as a dwelling-house. Of many other beautiful rides round Tunbridge- Wells, we have not now the opportunity to speak. We terminate our account with Penshursif the ancient seat of the Sidneys, endeared by the recollections of Sir Philip Sydney and of Waller^ still occupied by one of the original family, who has married a daughter of the King, and His Majesty has assisted in the reparation of the ancient seat, which contains a fine hall, beautiful tapestry, and much furniture, given by Queen Eliza- beth. The appearance of the Placcy decent and venerable church with pinnacled tower, and small town embosomed in trees, across the river Medway, is, especially when all the associations are called to mind, one of the most interesting that can be met with. — We close our devious course inland, but wish to return in recollection, and pay a final tribute of attachment to the unequalled Ocean, with which we first began : — ^ PRIMA DIOTB MIHI, SUMMA DIOBNBE, CAMOfiMA." VIKIS. LONDON s SATIBON, SIMMONS, AND CO., WHITEFRIARS. V •V